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Paul
Eric5208
Well, you really asked a question... It would have been easier to ask like this... tell me, dear ones, all about the marine aquarium, in more detail. Let's do it this way... talk about the plans, the aquarium, filtration, lighting... and the budget, after all, that's where we can start from...
Troy8808
Which actinics are better to start with, and if possible, could you be more specific about the lamps (power)? I measured calcium with GHL (isn't that a bit low, maybe I need to add more?), I'm using Reef Crystals salt (2% water change every week), and what fish are the most compatible?
Cindy
What to add for maintaining the aquarium (live rocks), as for the greenery (nitrates and phosphates are normal)
Larry
Calcium was measured by GB Element, so can I add a little more? AQUASPACELIGHT DULUX 6000K lamps (60x30x8 cm) 2 x 55 W Dulux (and I think there is a problem with them on the stone today, I think I found some blue-green -- a film with air bubbles, is it them, or am I just overreacting -- if it is them, what should I do, is the problem in the light or something else? I do measure nitrates, ammonia, nitrites with a tetra -- how reliable are its readings? Thank you very much for the additional information.
Brent5588
When was the aquarium started? If it was recently, then green filamentous algae is normal and will soon start to disappear. It will be replaced by red slimy algae, and over time, they will also go away. However, when the coralline algae appear (not earlier than 6 months), you can try keeping corals, but for that to happen, you will need to reconsider the life support system.
Wendy8540
The aquarium is about 6 months old, there is greenery not on all but on some stones (I clear it out and it grows back), maybe there is no one to eat it. What does it mean to reconsider the life support?
Jacqueline5976
For normal life, corals will need to acquire calcium reactors, metal halide lamps, cooling, add water flow, and strive to eliminate nitrates and phosphates (there are several methods) + addition of trace elements.
Christine
Nitrates 12.5 mg/L, phosphates 0 (knock on wood), I add Coral San and Kombi San, I maintain pH at 8.0. If I start with an anemone, how critical is a reactor and a matalogalogen? If possible, please tell me about ways to get rid of nitrates and phosphates.
Stephen
Nitrates and phosphates are one of the biggest problems for the reef. There are many methods to combat them; in short: DSB, biological or chemical denitrifiers, algae filters + mangroves, and of course live rocks and anti-phosphate solutions.
Amy9618
Anemones - no problem.
Brooke
What is DSB and antifos, and what is the role of mangroves?
Karen1649
In simplified terms, DSB is a layer of soft substrate (coral sand) about 12 centimeters thick, where various organisms, including anaerobic bacteria, thrive and break down nitrates (a great thing, as it can help achieve zero nitrates). If you decide to get one, I can describe it in more detail with diagrams. Anti-phosphate is a product that, when water passes through it, helps eliminate phosphates. Mangroves also remove nitrates and phosphates, using them for their growth.
Heather2018
Recently, while browsing one of the catalogs (the name is also similar to antifos), I saw that it closely resembles our zeolite (blue, orange, yellow-green granules). Is that it?
In my opinion, mangroves are better - both beautiful and practical.
Laura7633
In general, this is zeolite, although Aqua-Medic on their website states that it is not just zeolite, but chemically modified zeolite that binds phosphates. It may be true, or it could just be marketing nonsense. Regarding mangroves - from the reviews of those who have kept them, it's not that simple; in general, you can't replace Caulerpa!!!
By the way, for DSB, the substrate fraction should be fine - no more than 0.5 mm.
Leslie
I would be glad to learn more about DSB (if possible, please send the diagrams to my email), can a denitrifier replace it (it seems a bit risky to have 12 cm, while it settles -- people on the forum have used 1 cm to make siphoning easier), where can I read more about anti-phosphate and where can I buy mangroves in Kyiv?
Steven
If the volume is not large and there are not many fish, a denitrator will be sufficient (tip: it works well if you use "deniballs," and the flow through it should be adjusted according to the redox potential). You can find all about anti-phosphate in "Aqua-Medic." I got the mangroves in Moscow. As for the substrate layer, the water flow in the aquarium should be arranged so that siphoning is never necessary.
Jenny
How are your mangroves doing? They seem to need magnesium supplements... Overall, please share your experience.
Melissa1838
And in general, scrape off a proper foam (the same down-draft is easy to make at home), plant some caulerpa (green), live rock, and coal for the sea, and you won't have any headaches.
Tina
I constantly add microelements to the system (under computer control), including magnesium. There are no particular problems with Mangroves. When making the DSB, it would be good to place a large mesh grid under the layer of crushed material and cover it with mill gas.
Ryan1989
And what is the grid and gas for DSB?
Darrell5975
If possible, please send the drawings to my email, and also, which trace elements should be monitored closely.
Karen2578
Why green in particular
Antonio
If possible, please clarify a few questions: what determines the speed of reaching the design capacity of DSB, how to maintain live rocks afterwards (or are they self-sufficient), how to calculate the size of the sump - maximum and minimum limits.
Leslie
Water underground is diffusively mixed, which prevents soil acidification directly at the bottom and increases the contact area of water with aerobic and anaerobic bacteria.
Daniel9952
DSB must mature (become enriched with marine organisms), the speed depends on the quantity and quality of live rock or live sand. By maintaining better life activity in the aquarium, you also support the live rock. The more water in the system, the better.
Dana6523
The sump should be one third of the main aquarium, or the bigger the better?
James8887
It depends on the assigned functions. If it's just a biofilter with a foam separator, the main thing is to ensure that the equipment is conveniently placed, and that water from the overflow chamber is available in case of a shutdown. If there is a refugium (algae filter) or a separate container for DSB, then it's a matter of personal preference.