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Scott8536
Deborah2682
Substitutions need to be made... Very little information. What type of foam separator? What is the population of the aquarium?
Jennifer
Aquarium Boyo 575, clownfish, surgeonfish, dogfish, some other fish, a beautiful starfish, various soft corals, 2 pieces of sarcophyton, and more. The protein skimmer was included with the aquarium.
Sara4035
The second question killed me. Of course, water changes need to be done regularly. Phosphates at 0.5 are incredibly high. Either there are a lot of dry reef rocks, or the fish are producing a lot of waste, or there's some strange sand... because of the rocks, the phosphates are just fantastic. Have you measured calcium/magnesium? Nitrites? (I also have some wonders with the nitro cycle right now, as I'm a beginner in micro-reefing, but everything is fine with phosphates and alkaline metals.)
Susan1358
Not 0.5, but exactly 5. How often and in what amounts can water be changed? Is it too much if it's 30 liters daily?
Mitchell3177
Once a week, if everything is stable. About 10 liters... if there are no hard substances... But if the level is like that, then it’s probably worth changing more water, around 25-30 liters. Why is there such a phosphate spike? Is it the stone - J.K. (live rocks)? Or from the construction in the Philippines? As an emergency measure, my friends use anti-phosphate in the filter. Otherwise, plant some in the sump or in some section with light. It’s strange that with such a concentration, you don’t have any die-off... What about magnesium and calcium?
Chad
It is better, after all, to measure these parameters again with other tests (like Salifert, for example) before making any drastic movements with the aquarium to correct the water parameters.
Melinda2740
Ptero tests are the worst tests you can find. And with nitrate tests from this manufacturer, there are constant issues; read the reviews on "Arirated." A nitrate level of 40 mg/l is unrealistically high; the test is likely giving incorrect results. I recommend nitrate tests from Salifert - they are very sensitive. I also recommend the KH test - accurate to tenths.
Steven
Off-topic, Salifert paid
40 mg/l is not that much and certainly not deadly, don't scare the person. But having two sets of tests is fine, pH for frequent use, and at least Salifert or something, or at least a large JBL as standards.
Colin1418
Sorry, I didn't mean to scare you. For Pisces, it's definitely not fatal; the author just mentions that there is a film on the stone and that he is a beginner, so I concluded that the aquarium was recently started. If the water treatment was done correctly, then a value of 40 mg/l is a bit too much in the sense that the test is not showing accurately.
Kevin3579
The aquarium was set up more than 3 months ago, the water has gone through reverse osmosis and ion exchange resin, today I did a 15-liter water change. Tomorrow I will change another 15 liters. Then I will observe; it seems that Ksyusha has either curled up or fallen asleep, the corals have lost their color and hidden their small polyps, but the sarcophyton has become a beauty like I have never seen before, it is really blooming and smelling. By the way, there is a photo in the first post, and the film on the rock is visible.
Joshua
In my opinion, it's easier to buy proper salit tests than to spend half a day on testing.
Gene1948
Today I added to the aquarium:
1. SEACHEM MATRIX
2. SEACHEM PHOSGUARD
3. SEACHEM ACTIVATED CARBON MATRIXCARBON
I hope this will stabilize the situation a bit. I think the whole problem is with feeding; I apparently overfed the aquarium with frozen brine shrimp. I need to switch to dry professional feeds. Tomorrow I will do another 15-liter water change.
Patrick4439
I was also offered to buy and add it, but I know from experienced aquarists that if you introduce chemicals into the aquarium, you'll have to keep adding them for the entire life of the aquarium. That's why I'm not in a hurry to buy this stuff; I'm waiting for the system to stabilize on its own, even though I've been itching to buy and add it. I don't know, maybe I'm wrong; maybe it's not chemicals but just bacteria that speed up certain processes in the aquarium. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Antonio
BIODIGEST, as far as I understand, does not contain chemicals, only a concentration of bacteria. There is a user on the Takeda forum (a hydrobiologist by education) who is currently examining BIODIGEST (PRODIBIO), STABILITU (SEACHEM), and some other products with a microscope, and I think he will publish what he has observed in the coming days. In your aquarium, you probably have a lot of dry reef rocks and little biology, which is why everything is unstable.
Alicia5489
I have only one piece of S.R.C. (dry reef rock), but it's a big one, taking up a third of the aquarium. The rest is L.K. (live rock). I want to sell this S.R.C. (dry reef rock) and switch completely to L.K. (live rock).
Maria
I mostly agree with you, I should take some to try.
Javier5186
Please tell me what I need to purchase for my situation. Will BIOCLEAN SALT be suitable for me, or do I need a different product? There are so many options that it can be confusing for a first-timer to know what is necessary and what is not. How much water is one ampoule designed for, and what is the shelf life of an opened ampoule? How should I properly store an opened ampoule? Is it worth getting the entire BIOKIT REEF 30 line? Do I need to buy REEF BOOSTER and BIODIGEST now? They all seem the same to me; when I read their specifications, they appear quite similar. To be honest, I’m confused about them.
Tracy4603
Biodigest - bacteria
bioclean - bacteria + bacteria feed (biodigest + bioptim)
startap - biodigest + stopammo
BIOKIT REEF 30 - in my opinion, not particularly necessary.
You need to take biodigest-6. Try it. If you like it, you can consider getting the 30.
Later, when the system is in order, you can take bioclean.
Dana4701
What volume of water is the ampoule of biodigest-6 and bioclean designed for? I read that some say 200 liters, while others say up to 1000 liters. How long does an opened ampoule last?
Lauren
biodigest from 120-1000 liters. An open ampoule is not stored.
Helen
Then I don't really understand. I have 120 liters, so I roughly add 1/4 of the ampoule and throw the rest away? If it is designed for up to 1000 liters, or is the whole ampoule poured into the aquarium from 120 to 1000 liters?
Phyllis
One ampoule is suitable for 120 liters to 1000 liters.
Eric
Say it simply: there are small ampoules for 120-200 liters and there is PROFI where one ampoule is for 1000 liters. I would take both Biodigest30 and Bioptim30. It's cost-effective, and it will last you for a whole year, even more.
Stephen5857
Max, I just said! Biodigest comes in one ampoule for 120 liters up to 1000 liters. Bioptim has a different recommendation. Of course, it's easier to take 30 of Biodigest and 30 of Bioptim - that's what I would do. But if there are doubts, you can take it for a trial. For now, I would only add Biodigest. In this aquarium, the nutrients for the bacteria will be sufficient. When the parameters come to normal, then Bioclean.
Leslie
So give advice to a person on how to reduce nitrate and phosphate in the aquarium. Those ampoules that are "like additives in gasoline" will just boost the biology and that's it. The result is there, and that's a fact.
Ricardo7341
This topic is being raised for the hundredth time. It’s better to give advice on what to do rather than to philosophize.
Eric8832
You won't believe it, but I don't resort to chemistry in my aquariums (which I've mentioned many times over the years) and I'm surprisingly not concerned about pH and kH. I repeat that there are necessary things and there are wasted marketing expenses, just frivolity. This is my firm opinion, and it's pointless to try to change my mind; I have enough personal experience and bumps along the way. Because of this, I don't complain and have a stable, thriving system with three marine aquariums.
Correct, wait and provide slight assistance.
Daniel132
How is that? The CN is not falling?
Karen
I think that adding bacteria won't make things worse; I've decided to try it out for myself and we'll see.
Erin
You are right. Substitution does not address the cause of the nitrogen cycle disruption and will not bring biomass to the aquarium. And your kH is a bit low, at least 9-10. Have you tried using vodka to solve this problem at the beginning? If possible, consider getting Salarias fasciatus, an indispensable fish in a newly launched aquarium when lower life forms appear.
Leah
Max, my residents in marine aquariums don't care if kH is 8.9 or 11, as long as pH stays below 8 and above 8.4. You know this well; we've been communicating for quite some time. There were minor issues during the restarts, but they resolved themselves within three days.
Mark
It doesn't matter to you and your livestock because it's the norm (8-12). When a person has a kH of 5 in their aquarium, measures need to be taken, and water changes won't solve this problem; chemistry will be necessary (a solution of sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate) - that's one. Secondly, as a coordinator, you should not teach newcomers to disregard such an indicator as pH.
Andrea6761
First of all, why do I have, that is, in my three aquariums, a norm for many years? (I'm not talking about other aquariums)
Tonya
I can't understand the off-topic comments and hints directed at me? Well, never mind. I have a question for you: "Nitrates and phosphates have increased, why and what to do, methods of elimination; have the kN and pH levels increased or decreased, what to do, why, and how to address them?!" This is what should be discussed in the topics, not pointing out your authority and status of inviolability.
Rodney3101
Soon, Takedau will publish the results of the study on the drugs: Biodigest, Bioptim, and Rifbooster. One cannot claim 100% certainty about something one has not personally verified!
Debbie3587
In contrast to the topic of water parameter issues. I bought S.R.K. (dry reef rocks), dry aragonite sand, and freshly prepared water. So where will the biofiltration come from?! This is a question for those who do not use "chemicals."
Kathryn514
I have a little dog in my aquarium.
David7773
What was to be expected! Off-topic: You were the first to touch on this. YOU WROTE. Secondly, as a coordinator, you should not teach newcomers. Who will you teach? What? Who are you, where are your successful aquariums, the history of their creation, maintenance, years of experience, successes and failures, etc.? Believe me, in the last three years, there have been so many "encrypted lecturers" here; where are they? I responded to you because you apparently do not want to know the forum rules, and my authority is not for you to discuss. I pointed this out to you so that you wouldn't forget and wouldn't worry about my person. You have been leading discussions, so continue, but do not dictate what a coordinator should do.
Melissa3200
I have nothing to hide. Here are some of my photos.
Chad
I have been involved with the sea for only 2 years and do not consider myself an experienced sailor. But I don't understand how it is possible to keep two Angels and a Spiny in a 300-liter reef aquarium. As far as I know, at least 400 liters are needed for one Angel. Plus, they nibble on corals. Also, are you by any chance one of the former scandalists? An Egyptian from Zaporizhzhia? The aquarium looks very familiar. Sorry if I'm mistaken.
Curtis9143
There is an important detail here that I mentioned earlier. You need to start with water from an existing aquarium; it is from this live water that the necessary bacteria will appear.
Jennifer5784
There is an important detail here: when 100% of the water comes from an established aquarium, but not everyone can achieve this, and many on the forum like to use UV sterilizers and ozonators when it's necessary and when it's not. This results in three non-living components: sterile water, dry reef rocks, and sand. Therefore, it seems to me that when starting up with dry reef rocks, live sand should also be used.
Nicholas5194
I would like to purchase for testing:
1. BIOCLEAN SALT - 6 pcs.
2. BIODIGEST - 6 pcs.
3. BIOPTIM - 6 pcs.
Can you tell me if I have chosen the right combination of products for my situation? Or is there something that is unnecessary for now and should be temporarily replaced with another product like PRODIBIO?
I would also like to clarify the shelf life of the product in sealed ampoules.
Nancy758
It is absolutely not necessary; 10 liters will be enough, and there are plenty of bacteria in the air. When starting with dry rock (dry reef rock), it is essential to consider that there is a lot of decayed organic matter in it, and the system will take at least a month to process all of it.
Jonathan6173
Incorrect
Bioclean - the 6-pack contains 3 ampoules of biodigest and 3 ampoules of bioptim. Roughly speaking, it's a MIX!
Biodigest is a bacterium.
Bioptim is a nutrient for the bacterium.
I would recommend taking biodigest.
When the phosphate and nitrate levels drop - bioclean.
Todd
How do I place an order through the Airif website? I looked it over and calculated that it would be more cost-effective for me to take BIOCLEAN SALT in a pack of 12 for 253, as it contains 6 pieces. If I take Bioptim and biodigest separately in packs of 6, it turns out to be more expensive. What do you think?
Allison
The larger the packaging, the more cost-effective it is. I think bioclian in 12 ampoules will be cheaper. Order through the website. I have no relation to sales.
Thomas5021
Order placed. Thank you.
Thomas5021
I have a request for you - please let me know the result. After applying the tests, try them for a week. You will find it interesting yourself.
Larry
Max, you yourself pointed out that I wrote to my residents in marine aquariums that it doesn't matter if kH is 8.9 or 11, and pH below 8 and above 8.4 hasn't changed. I only write about my aquariums and only share my experience of keeping such aquariums as mine. I haven't talked about SPS (small-polyped corals) and I don't give advice anywhere at all.
Brooke3987
Sure,
Loretta5483
To start the bacterial cycle, even one liter is enough, but the process takes longer until the entire water is saturated with bacterial mass. The example with sugar is not relevant here. I think it's unnecessary to explain what will happen if you add a teaspoon of sugar to a bucket of seawater; it's clear that there will be a bacterial bloom, and if you think about it, what does a teaspoon mean in a bucket of water? Just because we can't see it with the naked eye doesn't mean there's nothing there...
Bethany
To be honest, I have decided for myself what to do in various situations. I tried to explain the case with the launch on dry rations. I don't intend to argue or defend anything, as I don't see the point in it. I wish you success in M.A.
Gabrielle5053
You are in the topic of seller reputation and the integrity of buyers. Let's talk. They violated, deviated, that's one.
Andrew7823
I received a package with Bioclean from Airifa, and I will be adding one ampoule of each every 15 days. I wanted to know if I need to do a water change before adding the medications? I also got Deltec AQUA CROWN Calcium Hydroxide here to combat aiptasia. I have a question about how to properly make the calcium hydroxide solution and how to use it against this aiptasia?
Melanie
Water changes will only help.
Alan273
Guys, can you suggest how and with what I can raise the KH? I measured it today and it's a bit low at 5.
Corey3201
Baking soda.