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Daniel9952
Elizabeth
120x60x65 is the best option. Glass 10mm. Bottom 10+7mm. If there is a possibility to install a larger volume, then it is better to do so.
Michele9664
For the first option, 8mm glass is quite sufficient. I have eight 6mm glass jars measuring 1500*60*50 that have been in use for 4 years without any problems, but for home use, I would glue them from 8mm. For the second option, at least 10mm is required.
Erin2730
I would recommend making both from 10mm. The price difference between 10mm and 8mm is negligible, and 65 and 70cm is quite high.
But what's the point? Not everyone knows how to properly make a "sandwich," and without that, the double bottom loses its meaning. Additionally, you can simply reinforce it with strips around the perimeter of the bottom made from the same 10mm, 5-7cm wide. Although when gluing the bottom around the perimeter with the side walls, it's already a precaution.
I would also wrap the top perimeter with ribs of 4-5cm.
For 70cm, that's too little in my opinion. 250W is just right.
There are decorated cubes available—you can check out both the composition and the technique.
Bryan1851
In my opinion, the best option is 130x65x65; I would stick with it.
Heather
But why exactly 130? 115 was most likely chosen for the T5 54W.
Tracy4603
Just imagine, a 120 cm aquarium with a 120 cm light fixture (which I already have) positioned 15 cm above the aquarium loses a lot of light behind it (why?) when there is a possibility to make the aquarium slightly larger than the light fixture. This way, you gain volume and eliminate losses. For example, I have a 170 cm aquarium and a 152 cm light fixture, and there are no light losses.
David953
What kind of hydrobionts will inhabit this aquarium? The choice of equipment is usually made based on the future inhabitants.
Kenneth7331
A deep marine aquarium looks much better than a shallow one. And it doesn't matter who will inhabit it. I'm settling on the option of 130x65x65. Moreover, I recently made a light fixture with 2 MH 150 + 2 T5 54.