Ronald
Great!!!!
I really liked the idea of casting the legs and the pipe from silicone; they say that all genius is simple.
What kind of machine is that? It seems to be quite multifunctional.
Leah
Good luck with the move and new beginnings.. What can I say, master))
Brent5588
Cassandra7840
Well done! The main thing is to do it with your own hands. Good luck.
Mark7376
WITH THE LAUNCH
GOOD JOB, everyone should have such hands and brains
a little question
what do you have on P1010165.jpg (24 out of 34)
some kind of anti-bulk, does it help?
more details if possible
is the gray pipe corrugated inside?
good luck
Aaron6112
This is a drainage section; it muffles all the noise and splashes and also directs the water flow straight to the foam pump. Seryozha, come by and see it in person; it will be clearer how it works.
Jesse
I thought so. Thank you for the invitation. I'll drop by to see it in person, there's a lot of interesting things.
Rebecca1419
Sanyok, you are definitely a monster.
Haven't you counted how much the pen cost you?
What did you use to seal the overflow pipe - plastic?
Michael
I will partially respond. I don't think Sanya will be offended.
I visited when there was an old 250-liter aquarium - it was cool. This one looks impressive. As always, there are many interesting solutions.
Brandy
Thank you for the feedback, I tried my best.
The shaft consists of what you might call layered glass, meaning that a film is glued onto the glass, then glass is placed on the film, then more glass on top, resulting in what you could call colored triplex, glued with silicone.
As for the price, it's hard to say, since the 10mm and 5mm sheet acrylic was bought at a flea market, a piece of 200mm pipe was purchased, and the 100mm pipe was bought for 450 for 2 meters, and of course, the pump cost 1250. If you buy all the materials from advertisers and do it yourself, it will cost around 2000.
Breanna9982
It's something! There are no words to describe the delight from what I've read and seen. A special thanks for the detailed description of the sequence of residents moving from the old aquarium to the new one. You're really something, a jack of all trades.
Melinda2740
Sanyok, I read your thread earlier and decided to write. You created a beautiful little sea in your home. I have always liked your work and was thrilled by it. If it weren't for your thread about the 250-liter aquarium, I wouldn't have dared to set up a marine aquarium for myself, thanks to your thread and Sherkhan. By the way, who did you send your old equipment to in Kirovograd?
Whitney
Thank you for the kind words. I didn't send it; they came and took it. These people are not on the forum.
Joseph591
You are a designer. You can soon start mass-producing your equipment.
Alan273
Have you not been interested in LED lighting?
Keith7534
Hello. Question? In the photo of the overflow shaft, there are three tubes: one for water intake, the second for overflow, and the third for supply to the aquarium, is that correct? But I just can't understand the principle of such filtration, why is everything so close together, why not move the return to another corner? Well, it circulates almost clean water, meaning near the comb there is an outlet for clean water, and right next to it is the intake.
Eric8832
Well, what can I say about this. From my point of view, LED lighting is a good thing only when the best LEDs are used, but with the best LEDs, the light becomes very expensive, and the technology is constantly advancing. For me, at this time, T5 light is the best option, and we'll see what happens next.
Luis3725
Hello.
Well, it's a bit different; one 25mm pipe serves as a siphon that draws water like a hose during water changes, while the 32mm pipe is at a level where it literally allows 100 liters per hour to pass through. In this setup, the system is absolutely silent and operates with complete stability, and it allows for a return pump of up to 6000 liters.
Regarding the return, I can say that due to the power of the return pump's jet, the flow of purified water shoots to the opposite corner of the aquarium, at least that's how it is. This is evident when adding coral snow to the return compartment and its subsequent exit from the intake pipe.
Christopher3770
With the corner, this is a siphon, right? But I don't understand about the second one, it seems high, or is there a hole there?
Michael
Both pipes have elbows, the siphon pipe is sealed, and the second pipe is not sealed.
Lindsay
But how does it not bubble then?
Dennis
A very small amount of water flows through it, about 100 liters per hour, which is about 1/15 of the total amount of water, so it doesn't make noise.
Deborah2682
Did you use sand from the old aquarium or did you buy new?
Danielle8118
There are absolutely no overflowing noises, complete silence. By adjusting the siphoning intake with the valve, the desired water discharge is achieved, and through the 32mm intake, a negligible amount of water flows, in a stream approximately like that from an osmotic faucet. This cannot be done with a single intake pipe; it would be a convoluted Durso that makes noise, gurgles, and is prone to malfunction. The system works perfectly if all levels are maintained during the construction of the system. Here’s a little drawing I made.
Kristen1161
Sand from an old aquarium, but it's better to rinse sand from old aquariums under running water and then boil it, after which rinse it again.
Joshua8425
and the air tube without a tap?
Diana3118
What is the purpose of such extremes, washing, boiling (complete sterilization)? Why not quickly take it out of the old aquarium and place it in the new one? It will still be rinsed at 40-50%, but it will be alive, and if this operation with the sand is done in the morning, then in 4-5 hours all the invertebrates can be safely transferred, and the fish the next day. Why kill live sand? What goals are pursued by this method?
Brandy1134
The water level serves as the air tap.
Andrew9581
Lesha, I did just that, the sand was quickly moved, and as a result, there was cyan on it. If I were to restart now, I would definitely boil it.
David2398
I also agree that I overdid it.
However, I do not agree with this. I have one 3/4 pipe in the tank and one 3/4 return that has been working for six months, there is no noise, no bubbling, no gurgling. I set it up once, fiddled with it for about an hour and a half, and that's it. For those who might ask about the likelihood of flooding when the pipe gets clogged or the return pump breaks, I will say that everything is calculated, and if the water drains from the aquarium to the sump without air getting in, there is a 6 cm reserve in the sump. Also, if the water is pumped from the sump back to the aquarium, it will only cover the maximum of the ribs of rigidity, and that's all. Here are the photos for the review. Sorry for posting my photos in your thread.
Angel628
The goose also reduces noise. I am not imposing this system on anyone; I just illustrated how I did it for myself, I am satisfied with the result, and that is enough for me.
John5528
Lesha, it's not scary. I have a system like the one you showed installed on the frag tank, it works great, and the system I made works even better. I'm satisfied. In the photo, I see that the return pump is attached; does it start to splash when it's fully overflowing?
Jeffery7866
At first, I adjusted it to one-third, now the return pump is open at 95%, and the feed to the sump is fully open. By the way, we sleep two meters away from the marine aquariums, and honestly, there is no noise; sometimes the pumps and currents are barely audible, which means they need cleaning. I won't argue, it might be so, as I haven't seen it in action with my own eyes. I plan to set up a new aquarium soon, and just for fun, I'll make it with three pipes, and then I'll share the comparison to see if it was worth sticking with such a setup.
Alyssa6727
excited - the idea is just great and it seems like there is still an emergency system; the higher the level, the more the 32 pipe lets through.
A question: did you adjust the drain of the 32 pipe with the water valve? Or is it fully open?
What did you make the air tube from and how did you attach it? (I have a small hole in the lid and the drip tube serves only for auto-start)
The system is similar to mine, just a bit modified - there is no clean emergency system (one less pipe).
At this rate, soon half of the forum will switch to a two-pipe drain - it's worth a try.
No one took mine seriously; they said it was complicated and pointless.
Good luck.
Meghan
I struggled, struggled, and finally managed to finish it. It took me a week to make the lamp, I did everything myself from the reflectors to the housing, and I am satisfied with the result of the time spent. (Please don't judge too harshly) The lamp is designed for 8 bulbs of 54 watts, the moon is made from LED strip, and the dimensions turned out to be very compact: length 1250mm, width 500mm, height in the center 80mm, and at the edges 50mm. Now there is definitely more light, the aquarium is fully illuminated without shaded areas, and now I just have to wait for the corals' reaction.
Christopher4108
Well, what can I say - .... I hardly ever dare to undertake SUCH a feat. To be completely honest, every time I glance at my small, dull aquarium, a wild desire to move to the sea awakens in me. If I were to look at an aquarium like yours, I would definitely go broke from daily dives, even if it's in the Yenisei, or I would die from hypothermia (the water here is warm +5 to +15). I shouldn't be looking at such beauty!
I’ll go check my diving equipment.
Alicia5489
I was at the "guests" yesterday, everything looks much better than in the photos.
Remind me next time to bring a camera with a tripod - we'll take photos that are closer to the original, and also a video.
Good luck.
David953
An interesting hypothesis, but is it correct? I also started with Tetra Marin. But my package was 4 kg, so with that amount, I doubt there was a separation into heavy and light. However, Coralline did grow on the glass, the pump body, and the back wall. I stopped using this salt, and all the Coralline dissolved after a while. But is the excess magnesium the reason? I doubt it. I add calcium and magnesium, but Coralline does not appear. And the hermit crabs are gnawing it off the rocks to the root.
Cheryl
Offtopic Something's wrong with the forum...
Melissa3200
It will be interesting to listen to - watch the report.
Amber6362
This is not a hypothesis but a fact confirmed by tests; magnesium was 1600-1800. This happened to me for the second time; the first time it happened was two years ago, but back then it was at least useful, all the bryopsis disappeared, and at that time there was a lot of it—no amount of weeding helped.
Meghan
All of this will definitely happen.
Todd8452
I have practically the same light, just a few more watts.
Julia
I have a joyful reason to write in this thread, namely, my clownfish have turned one month old. It took me five attempts to raise and nurture the little ones, which is about six months from the start of the first attempt. I'm sharing photos of the 8-day, 15-day, and 30-day old fish. They are currently about 1.3-1.5 cm in size, with a quantity of around 60-75 individuals. A total of 100 larvae were caught.
Javier5186
mega cool!!! a couple on hold as soon as they grow up))))))))))))))))
Michelle13
Well done! Keep it up. Awesome! If it's not a secret, what did you use to boost it?
Julia
, Artemy
Amy
Well, like all the fish )) So what was the problem before?
James1625
A lot of nuances.
Michael5242
We are looking forward to the story.
Kellie
I don't think a person will share all the nuances. That's the whole point of interest.
P.S. Congratulations on the successful outcome.
Maria
We are gradually growing) We are 2 months and 10 days old. I made a slight mistake in my calculations during the transplant; I managed to count them, and there are 100 clownfish. They are 2-2.5 cm in size and eat like crazy—dry pellets, flakes, various frozen foods, 5-6 times a day. They will soon start banging on the glass with spoons to get fed outside of schedule).
That's the situation for today.
Sorry for the poor-quality photo; the glass hasn't been cleaned, and I don't plan to clean it either.
Collin
It's very interesting to hear reviews about the new lighting.
John
The new lighting is not installed yet. Currently, Ray is assembling it.
Joseph8592
Finally, I have become the owner of a light fixture for a large aquarium. Photos will be available soon.
Brian6895
The description of the lamp will be provided; I would like to know what kind and how many diodes you installed.
Jennifer7159
The "fat" lamp turned out well, and the active cooling is organized very interestingly. It also had diodes at 390 and 400 nm. You still have 3 channels, so you can add more over time. UV has a very positive effect on SPS. By the way, acroporas can change color. In general, you are the first (on this forum) that I know of who has switched SPS to LED. I think many have been waiting for this and will start transitioning to this light source.
Jesse3979
Yes, I completely forgot to ask, please take a screenshot of how the software is displayed on the computer.
Sheila1322
The ray suggested that I install UV diodes in the 390-400 nm range, but I declined. This was for eye safety reasons, as I read an article about the eye's reaction to wavelengths below 405 nm. I am confident that SPS will grow and color under LED light, based on the frags that are illuminated by lights with 6 stars, which have white, blue, and royal blue colors. There are SPS frags there that are well-colored and growing. I can't take a screenshot right now because I've already moved the computer away from the light, and the Bluetooth won't reach the other room.
Jacqueline5976
A week has passed since the installation of the light above the aquarium. The power settings were medium, and there were no changes except that the soft corals and LPS became fluffier. Yesterday, I increased the light intensity to 90% for a couple of hours. I added UV diodes to the light stream at 85% and will see how the corals react to this change. Now my camera is struggling with the aquarium under the lights; next time, I will try to cover the light from the sides so that the light doesn't hit the camera.
Jennifer5784
What kind of animal is sitting next to you, to the right of the tridactyl at the front window?
Melissa3820
If I understood correctly, this is a brain teaser.
Charles
I found an interesting video about how fish are caught in nature. It might be interesting to someone.
Susan9583
Travis572
What percentage did each color channel set? (If it's not too much trouble, please write how many real/working in each channel to understand how much it shines.)
Javier5186
Can I have larger photos? It's hard to see all the beauty in this size.
Nicholas5194
I meant in the peak like this: white 88% - a total of 100 watts (you can see how much they work in the peak), piano 100-150 watts, etc.
Why did you decide to bring the green up to 50% so quickly? Are there many of them? I have the previous version of this fixture, with fewer colors and channels, but there is red and green... for now, both are at 20%.
Dennis
The larger forum doesn't load, so it has to be trimmed down.
Hunter1471
I don't have a watt indicator yet; I need to write a program with watts. There are 12 green and 12 cyan, and there's no point in being afraid of the green ones, even if you hit them 100%. However, the red ones are a different matter; you need to be more careful with them.
Monica
Post it on Aquafanat, there are no restrictions there.
Anthony7814
These photos are already cropped, and there are no others yet.
Chad4168
When you observe the aquarium (not fleetingly), do your eyes feel strain at the peak of brightness?
Anthony4281
Today, by reducing the light output, I sat by the aquarium for about 2 hours without any irritation or tension. It’s the green LEDs that soothe the eyes, making the blue components softer. I experience visual discomfort only when I look at the aquarium for a long time during sunset, when only the blue spectrum components are lit; the blues are just so intense that all the colors become so acidic that it almost hurts my eyes.
Russell8484
Interestingly, I assumed the opposite.
Joshua
Our vision is adapted to natural bright lighting, and there is no blue color in nature. The same goes for the aquarium.
Jill1815
probably that's true. it's better to see something once than to hear about it a hundred times.
Kenneth7210
Adam
what a variety of colors! (the camera didn't capture the full depth of the colors)
Joshua9340
how the wildlife feels under the ice.
Earl
How is the aquarium doing? I'm very interested to hear your opinion on the light fixture after a long period of use. And of course, I would like to see some photos.
Erica
It's time to revive the topic! Thank you for it, there's a lot of interesting information. Special thanks for the review of the lamp!
Christopher3770
There is no time for photos yet. In two words, I'm satisfied with the light; would I change anything? I wouldn't change anything, I would buy the same one. A couple of months ago, I thinned out the SPS and ended up with a little more than half a bucket of 20 liters of frags. Mostly seriatopora, acropora, montipora, and various others growing in the wrong direction. Recently, the power went out when I wasn't home, and the calcium reactor spilled concentrate into the aquarium, so naturally, a couple of colonies perished. In two words, that's about it.
Tracey
Suspicious. I've noticed an unpleasant trend on the forum; while the sea was illuminated by fluorescent lights, marine aquarium enthusiasts regularly posted photos. After switching to LED, the aquarium photos and the desire to take them stop. This is not just related to this topic. It's a common diagnosis for everyone who has switched from fluorescent lights to LED.
Michele
This is related to the fact that it is very difficult to convey the full beauty of the reef, and only a high-quality camera (which is rare or practically nonexistent among amateur photographers) and the skill of the photographer can produce quality photographs. Therefore, there is no desire to take and post just anything with distortions.
Aaron6112
Try photographing through a yellow filter; it usually helps a lot.
Jamie3553
Canek received good quality photos of his aquarium under LED. I take a lot of photos of marine aquariums and can say the following: a mid-range smartphone handles the photos excellently. It's not about artistry; I would like to see the overall condition of the reef. And it doesn't matter that the white balance is set incorrectly.
Lee425
Kathryn514
I used my phone as a video camera, color reproduction 100%. LED light: white, royal, and blue.
Rick
I couldn't resist! This is how the freaks catch fish, and the suppliers take this fish, and in the end, we are the ones who suffer! It's frustrating!
And this is how normal people catch fish, without cyanide and harpoons! But it doesn't reach us!
Links below!
Darrell7542
With the permission of the TS, I will make some adjustments.
Charles5941
Thank you for the article! Very informative. I read that you add pharmacy iodine. Can I know the dosage and how often?
Mark
Iodine is both useful and harmful in excess. The dosage is individual, both in volume and by population. In my regimen, I take about 20 drops every 3-4 days.
Danny
Beautiful aquarium! What salt are you using now, what water changes, do you add trace elements? I remember when you first started, you had a vodka doser... how are you managing nitrate and phosphate now? Thank you.
Katie5500
Crystal salt reef! I haven't done water changes for 7 months, but now I will start doing them again, though not large ones, 20 liters every 2 weeks. I did the first water change 2 weeks ago, 100 liters. I don't add any supplements, feeding the fish twice a day, dry food in the daytime, and frozen food - cyclops, brine shrimp, and Artemia in the evening. I don't add vodka; vinegar is added manually. That's about it.
Mike
Can you provide more details on why vinegar needs to be added and in what quantity? Are you not pouring the billing?
Tricia7885
It's the same as vodka, with its pros and cons.
Maria
Gave an answer with a link
From my side, the difference between vodka and vinegar is that water does not acquire a milky hue like vodka. By the way, tridactyls like the addition of vinegar; it improves fluffiness and growth.
Cassandra7840
I also prefer vinegar more - vinegar doesn't cause cyanosis. It's better to extinguish with a pinch of baking soda before adding.
Chad
Is the pH decreasing?
Jeffrey496
Yes, it has dropped, 7.9
Randall7906
At the start, I had a similar situation with diatoms and bubbles, and the pH wasn't increasing at all. I added soda (it disappeared without a trace), and the pH didn't rise. I added a decent amount while controlling the KH, then I set up a balling method, and the pH started to grow slowly but steadily, and the brown film disappeared. That's my little experience. Now the pH is 8.4.
Currently, there is a brown film on the sand, and all parameters are normal. Can cyanobacteria be brown? It's also strange how easily it can be triggered by adding strontium; I added it for tomorrow's results.
George5104
Yesterday, I treated the aphthae with vinegar, and after the vinegar, it seemed like the spots on my eyes receded, but then they returned.
Brandi
The thing is, I also have it only on the sand; at first, it receded and then advanced, but now it has taken a clear position near the front glass and on the left side, while the right side is clean. The thing is that dino or cyano can be identified under a microscope. Under the microscope, they appear as moving brown cells. I think you should take a look under the microscope. Dino doesn't move; it appears as different sticks or dots of brown color, while cyano consists of moving threads that are pink or brown in color. Thank you, I'll read it.
Jason9385
Hi!
Read my topic again. Don't freak out about the restart - you'll manage on your own!
Dim the light and torture the sterilizer for a week, then finish it off with complete darkness and chemicals for about 4-4.5 days.
I tried just dimming the light, and when I opened the aquarium, everything was clean, but after a few days, it started coming back. I let the aquarium rest for a while after the dimming and repeated the dimming with the remover, and up to today... knock on wood. Then I gradually increased the light very carefully, over the course of a month, to the desired level.
Wendy8540
By the way, I just looked under the microscope. After 2 days of treatment with erythromycin, at a dose that kills cyanobacteria and diatoms, the activity of the cells has not decreased at all for the osteopsis.
Troy8808
I am not as experienced in marine aquariums as you are, but I will say this: don't rush to hit it with chemicals, even "harmless" ones; it's worth searching very hard for the cause. Removing the consequence is a second question. Good luck!!!
I will look for more information now...
Earl
Under the microscope, I will check the thank you.
Check the water refill:
Si in the aquarium - 0
After the membrane TDS 23 Si - 0.8
After the resin TDS 002 Si - 0.1 -0
But there is still some after the membrane
After the resin:
Maybe it just masks Si, not visible for the test but enough for diatoms?
Well, if you are sure it's dinoflagellates...
Brooke
Kolya, overall you are right, but having gone through this entire struggle, I can say that if I had started using chemicals earlier, I would have lost fewer corals. But there is one more BUT: before using chemicals, you first need to stop the growth of these algae, and then use chemicals to finish them off. I think this is the fundamental difference in why chemicals help some and not others.
Jason9385
Valera, I completely agree. I have a feeling that the reason lies in the ... salts that we have been using lately.
Ryan1989
Kolya, the reason is completely different; I described this reason in my thread, and salt has nothing to do with it.))
James4757
Valer, we have the same supplier, but I... haven't had such a "miracle" yet. (I'm writing in capital letters) I have a question about salt!!!
Nicole
Salt! YES, THIS IS A QUITE POSSIBLE ARGUMENT. Right now I have R.C salt. It could very well be that a batch of defective salt came in, containing an excess of something, or some element, as it was with the tetra, an excess of magnesium, a couple of years ago. Or maybe it’s not about the salt, but as I look around, many people on various forums are experiencing dino, although I haven't monitored what salt everyone is using.
Danny
Can I have a photo? You were with me recently, my sand is already clean... but before that, you saw for yourself...
Anthony
Yvette209
I have a TDS of 030 after the membrane and 000 after the resin. Such a film as appeared when I added 15 kg of new washed sand from osmosis, it was swaying like a wave, and after a month it went away by itself, I didn't do anything.
April3499
Once, I tested various membranes, and then one of the sellers confirmed my findings that a 50-gallon membrane will always produce cleaner water than 75 or 100g membranes. With an input water of 500-600 ppm, the output of a 50g membrane is 6-8 ppm, the output of a 75g is 15 ppm, and the output of a 100g is 20 ppm. The membranes are Filmtec. Water pressure also matters; with higher input pressure, the output water from the membrane is cleaner.
Thomas1044
That's right, I have an osmosis system with two pumps and two membranes, each rated at 200. The output is never below 030 (if you don't drain it for about 30 seconds, it can go up to 050, or even 100). This is more than suitable for herbivores, and for marine aquariums, I "catch up" with resin to zero.
It's debatable.
Andrea
My under the microscope:
I will continue my story of the struggle with Dino in my own thread so as not to clutter yours. Good luck to you and a speedy recovery to the beautiful aquarium...
P.S. Don't rush with the chemicals.
Morning, the place of infection after siphoning.
Diana3118
In that case, after the UV treatment, we can replace the water from the functioning aquarium in normal mode. There is definitely a place in Kremenchuk to get such water.))
Eric
Is it moving under the microscope?
There are also such plans.
Alyssa6727
Regarding toxins.
I tried to gather the diatoms with a brush, then waved my hand, and a radioactive cloud settled on the cornullaria and the fragment of calendulum lying on the sand - the calendulum wilted, the cornullaria is closed and slowly fading away. Thank you for raising the issue, otherwise I would have continued to hope that I had diatoms... before that, the actinia was behaving strangely.
And in general, there was a feeling that not everything was right...
Elizabeth
Today, I didn't notice any obvious movement. Yesterday, it seemed like they were moving. They might have frozen in the tray on the cold window. They resemble ion-exchange resin.
Shawn
Good afternoon.
I recently had a Dino problem in my aquarium for about 6 months. I used ultra algae - it helped at first, but after 2 weeks it came back. Then I followed the advice from Reef Central - adding phytoplankton. I added it for about 40 days and also did complete blackout for 3 days (I wrapped the aquarium completely with bags, so no light got inside at all). It's been 2 months now, and the sand and rocks are as clean as a whistle. Maybe it will help you.
Michelle9986
I have briopsis growing on the rocks in my SAMPA after cleaning the detritus. I think the reason lies in the fact that I stirred it up and raised the mess. Now the growth has stopped.
Hunter1471
Bryopsis, Dictyota, and Valonia are more resilient and adaptable than other lower and higher algae.
Scott9892
In this version, I would put one on the drain and the other on the return, if technically possible... P.S.: changing the UV lamp is a good idea... mine has been around for about two years (not working constantly).
Ronald
In my opinion, it's the same, as 30 watts distributed over an area... say 50 cm, or two times 25 cm. BUT logic suggests that they should be placed in succession, like one weakens the bacteria and the second finishes them off. Or one 30-watt lamp over an area of 30 cm... (but that would be if you had such a lamp) - this is more effective than two 15-watt lamps... (I'm talking about the intensity of the radiation). I have a lamp in a plastic bulb, and it's already in the sterilizer tube... I don't observe anything alarming.
Gregory
Since the Dino tends to settle on the substrate, UV alone is not enough. UV sterilizes the suspension, but what to do with what has settled? Clouding is very dangerous; it kills corals without a doubt.
Andrew9581
I had a sterilizer at the pool, 21 or 24 watts, I don't remember. So, the bottom of the bulb fell off, and it flooded all the way to the top. The ballast burned out, but at least no one got electrocuted.
Michelle104
Maybe I haven't really suffered much from dino all this time, ugh, I have a stationary 18W Atman running 24/7. Actually, it only turns into mucus, as I mentioned before, from strontium. Other than that, there's just a light film. There's definitely no reason to suspect any catastrophe...
Michelle1505
In my opinion, prolonged exposure is also better. I have a slightly different experience, but still. I use UV for the pool and pond. Initially, there was a pump that was too powerful, and the lamp was working almost around the clock, but the effect was minimal. When I reduced the flow, the "green" started to actively go down to zero.
Adam
Very informative!
Based on the fact that your pH has dropped, in addition to UV, add an increase in pH, complete shading of the aquarium for a short period, or keep only actinic lights. The sand that I siphoned and placed in the sump (there is currently no light there) is clean, although in theory it should be teeming with dinoflagellates... it was taken from the very source.
Amy5468
A siphon is a very effective way to get rid of excessive concentrations of dino in any case. The only thing is that you shouldn't filter but rather let the dino settle, and sand acts as an assistant in this process. In any case, larger organisms will remain in the sock.
Cassandra1840
I read on the central about the dosage of erythromycin 100, and one tablet was used for 400 liters. I tried it on my system with 650 liters, dissolved just one tablet, and my foamer just "exploded." I can only imagine what would happen if I threw in 8 to 10 tablets.
Laura9093
The correct dosage is 100mg per 50 liters. The foam maker will go crazy even if you add 1 tablet containing 100mg to 500 liters. But that's not an indicator. Even a micro dose of the medication kills a negligible fraction of cyanobacteria, and from that comes the reaction of the foam maker.
Charles894
maybe try to ozonate instead
Cassandra7840
I didn't quite understand what to ozonate.
Kevin
Well, what can I say about the dino? After conducting procedures with the system, I did a lot of tests under the microscope, but I didn't find any dinoflagellates. However, I discovered a huge number of rotifers, nematodes, worms, infusorians, and all sorts of little wrigglers.
Gary6376
As far as I understand, all these "wigglers" are the first step in the food chain...
Curtis
Probably the second or third level. The first level is bacteria, the second is like protozoa, phytoplankton, dinoflagellates, and the third is probably various small crustaceans, worms, rotifers, and so on.
Michele9664
I mean, the beneficial organisms feed on plankton, right? By the way, in preparation for salting on S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) - how can I acquire such organisms? Should I take a quantity of live water? Live sand?
Kevin262
I would personally take water from a successful aquarium and a couple of kg of live rock or cured dry rock (if it's a large aquarium) and put it in the sump, but only in the sump. Live sand taken from the aquarium, outside of the aquarium, quickly deteriorates (SUFFOCATES).
Rodney
I understood about the water, I will beg. J.K. (living stones) also in the samp? I thought living sand was in the states, to buy in a store.
Jose
I can share some water from the aquarium, I'll be doing a replacement on Sunday, it will be about 30 liters.
Sheila1322
Thank you, but I need to glue the aquarium first; I'm going to cover the frame now. Once I'm ready, I'll let you know; I also have a 30-liter barrel.
Michelle1662
I think we need to write a detailed topic/article about your experience and mark it as "Important." It would be great if someone could repeat and confirm the good results. This is a breakthrough.
Dana4701
For the article, we need more numbers, specific dosages. I only have assumptions about how much phyto to add. Tanya has this stuff in her nursery, and I think there’s also Ostreopsis in the nursery. She just started shading, but without UV. I'm really curious to see if the method will work for her; if it does, that would be awesome! Then we can definitely claim it! PHYTO IN THE SYSTEM, DINO END!!! (Dinoflagellates Ostreopsis)
Debra6575
Yeah, then we need an article or a blog, where there will be more information and numbers) Think about the idea) I'm stopping the off-topic now)
Scraped together on the left, on the right is the MANPADS.
Angela7060
Why is it necessary to set up UV before introducing phytosanitary measures?
James5032
Dinoflagellates have not appeared after the above description, in other words, everything is fine. But I decided to restart to increase the bottom area. Also, there are some minor issues; sometimes a bryopsis pops up on one rock, valonia is also present, and there are hydroids on one rock. Since the launch, hydroids have been present on one rock, I haven't touched them, and now they have started to grow a little. In other words, the system has aged. All the water will be drained, the rocks will be soaked in bleach, and the system will be rinsed with fresh water. Large colonies of SPS will be discarded, and I will keep a frag to regrow from smaller ones. There is a lot of work ahead, but we will get through it.