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Barbara
Melinda2740
Buy a home filtration system consisting of a mechanical cartridge, a carbon cartridge, and a reverse osmosis membrane. Three housings connect to the water supply, with two outputs from the membrane. One is demineralized water, and the other is the drained waste. The performance is 200-300 liters per day. Describe your system—does it have a sump with a protein skimmer under the aquarium? The water level in the sump-aquarium system drops due to evaporation, salinity increases, and it is necessary to add demineralized water to maintain the level.
Diana8604
Actinium to kill.
You need to flush more often and add flow, let's say another 2 pumps of 2000 l/h.
You misunderstood, there can be a lot of carbonates and this will lead to nothing good. Although it is indeed a consumable material.
"Correct solution" (c)
Gary6376
What didn't you like about the glass anemones?
Angel2396
I am not a fan of external filters, or filters like sponges, canisters, etc. The most important and effective filter is the foam separator, and you can't do without it.
Thomas
Unfortunately, I'm having problems with my computer right now. I think I'll get everything done during the holidays and start posting photos. I'll only pull out the shameful ship. (As they say, I acted in a standard way, guided by my old stereotypes. I've already stepped on all the rakes.)
By the way, why kill actinides? They don't seem to ask for anything, don't bother anyone, and they look beautiful in my still primitive environment!
Angela7060
If you like the anemones, don't remove them. If they start to reproduce rapidly, you'll have to deal with it (shrimp, fish, manually).
Sarah7284
read something for you
1) Stepanova
2) Savchuk (mandatory)
and of course the Maritime Forum
Aaron6112
You need to replace the water with freshly prepared (salty) water, about 15% with a siphon. Check out the topic on Plataks, look at his equipment and the lighting in his aquarium, it's just amazing.
Jeffrey496
Regarding the internal filter. I got it more for the flow. And it's easy to clean. Should I keep it, or should I just get a powerful pump? What power should it have for a 400-liter aquarium? I want to create a base for settling soft corals. Thanks for the links, I will definitely check them out.
Curtis
I used to set a strong current (as everyone advised), but over time I noticed that corals prefer moderate, I would even say weak, currents. However, it is important to avoid stagnant areas (like in the back walls, etc.). If we focus on soft corals, then strong lighting is not essential; you can manage with tubes. Soft corals engage in chemical warfare (they release toxins) - carbon and its replacement are simply necessary.
Mary
My lips in it once a week is better than twice.
Tracy4603
Thank you. I wanted to clarify something else. What additives should be mixed with the preparation of new water? I understand that the "mushrooms" in the photo are related to soft corals. They seem to be completely suffocated. I want to figure them out, learn, and then order something more complex. Also, what minerals should be constantly added to the water? There isn't much livestock, but still.
Teresa
When preparing water, you only need to add salt; nothing else is necessary. As for additives, they are not needed at this stage in your case. In the future, when you have corals and invertebrates, you can add calcium and magnesium. If you want to get more serious, you can consider amino acids, strontium, iodine, and various trace elements in a complex, but all of this should come when you have experience and knowledge about the processes occurring in the aquarium. At this stage, I do not recommend adding anything, as the salt already contains everything necessary for the life of your inhabitants, and additives can only be harmful.
James8887
Currently, when replacing water, I use the scale indicated on the packaging. Red Sea salt.
24 degrees 1.021 s.g.
27 degrees 1.020 s.g.
But on the forums, I see different numbers. 1.025-1.026 at 26 degrees. Should I increase the density or follow the table that was given to me with the salt?
Anne4851
The normal density for a marine aquarium is 1.023-1.025, it needs to be raised.........I recommend using salt brands Tropic Marin and Reef Crystals - these are among the leading brands in the production of salt for marine aquariums.........
Heather2018
They are easy to get but very hard to get rid of. The aquarium is planned with the idea that the overgrowth of aiptasia will be suppressed.
Jason9385
I do not recommend siphoning the substrate in a marine aquarium, as it removes a lot of beneficial organisms. All the accumulated organic matter can be effectively removed by a protein skimmer, and if there is activated carbon, it will also take some of it on itself. As for preparing the water, it is enough to add salt to the prepared water (osmosis, ion-exchange resins, or any other type of purification), mix it with a pump or by hand until the salt is completely dissolved, adjust to the desired specific gravity, and the water is ready to be added to the aquarium.
Jonathon8514
Guys. I started regularly replacing the water prepared with a filter. Red Sea salt.
I have a problem: everything in the aquarium is constantly covered with something "rust-colored." Everything, the rocks, sand, walls of the aquarium. The eel constantly "vacuum cleans" to a shine, but after a couple of days, the area he cleaned is covered with this coating again. What can you advise, what might be wrong?
I ordered the book by Savchuk - "Reef Aquarium" based on your reviews. It will arrive in two weeks. In one aquarium store, it costs 6 thousand!
Brian
You probably posted a photo of diamonds there. Did you measure nitrate, nitrite, and ammonium? We have a book that costs about 60 Baku commissioners...