null - Discuss - Marine Aquarium - Aquarium forum, aquaristics forum

Linda

Erica

Is the photo not uploading?

Patrick4439

make the necessary sizes

Justin9867

Fedor, you are trying to upload a very large image.

Alejandro

They would have told the person that the maximum is 800x600 pixels.

Tanya

It turns out beautifully.

Jessica9188

The photos can be a bit larger, 600x400, otherwise there's no point in enlarging them.

Michelle13

more

Christopher8654

Fedor, you are a true reef keeper. At least the approach is right, the size of the aquarium is correct, the equipment is good, you chose excellent salt, and the amount of live rock is great. A good reef is never cheap; that's my approach. Question: Was it easy for you to buy all this in Uzhgorod? In the photo, it's unclear if those are Tunze streams (water pumps) or not (which ones are they)? Please post a current photo of the aquarium and the sump.

Emma

One of the mistakes I made was with the flow pumps. Since I plan to mainly keep hard corals. I have a Stream 6060 and an Eheim for 1250 liters. I should have gotten the Stream 6000 with a multi-controller and a Turbelle. I brought the components and rocks from Hungary.

Crystal4879

Hooray!! Our ranks have increased!! Congratulations, Fedor!!!

Johnny

Hello Fedor, The initial conditions are excellent, everything should work out. For now, while the corals haven't appeared, experiment with the stone placement. It's better to make the slope not only vertical but also horizontal. For example, the right part of your left side. Personally, I also like when the stones are arranged in a semicircle on sand or gravel, it creates a sense of perspective. Good luck to you and your aquarium.

Julia

The stones are placed on PVC tubes for better circulation and cleaning of accumulated waste, which also limits the options for laying them out. To be honest, I have rearranged them about three times, but I wouldn't want to climb into it too much. By the way, another mistake was that the coral crumble should be added in small portions after it has matured. I didn't listen to my Hungarian colleagues. Now I can't properly clean the deposits. By the way, nitrates and nitrites are at 0, CA 430, pH 8.3. I haven't observed any nitrite spikes after starting it up. Everything is going too smoothly, it's hard to believe. The algae are changing types as expected: brown, green filamentous appeared about four days ago, and the red ones are not cyanobacteria, more like bristle algae.

Alec9378

I initially soaked the crumbs to 2-3 cm, but now I've reduced it to 0.5 cm - a lot of detritus and debris accumulates in it.

Ryan2281

I blew out the trash from under the stones, but I can't clean it properly. There is so much debris in the substrate that it's practically impossible to clean it with the amount of water changed once a month. As long as the potential of the aquarium is high, the nitrates won't rise; beyond that, I don't know, we'll see.

Maria6659

You have a good aquarium, and you can't do without aragonite sand. Detritus doesn't accumulate in it, and a lot of life thrives in the sand. It is expensive (about 6 euros per kg), but it's worth the money. You can buy it in Moscow from Shumov. You need to pour 8-10 cm of it into the aquarium. Regarding the flow, you are right; you need two 6000s with a multi-controller.

John1464

I completely agree with you, if possible, acquire some sand, it is VERY important for the proper functioning of the aquarium. You really have very good proportions for the aquarium, it should turn out to be a nice reef.

Julia

Dear colleagues. The use of live sand is one of the directions in reef creation, specifically the so-called DSB (Deep Sand Bed) systems. If I'm not mistaken, Ron Shimek, an American biologist, was the first to use DSB with live rocks. Their goal was to establish biofiltration and move away from the use of skimmers. I haven't seen such a system in practice, so I can't judge its effectiveness. I am trying to create a reef based on the Berlin system, which relies on a powerful skimmer and high-quality live rocks.

Andrew419

Fedor, of course you can argue, but you are advised by those who have a good biological system. I have sand that is 10 cm in the aquarium and 15 cm in the sump, and my skimmer is at least five times more powerful than yours. There are no sponges and no suspensions, the substrate does not get silted, all tests are excellent, and the system is stable. Without sand, a good reef can only be made without fish. This opinion is not only mine.

Eric

I'm not arguing. In the future, I plan to keep SPS (small-polyped corals), and as you understand, a minimum of fish. P.S. By the way, how did the maturation of your system go and in what time frame?

Rick

Hooray!!! I join!!!

Wendy8540

I have the same hassle... Once a month, I do a water change through a siphon. Before, I used to "vacuum"... Before changing the water, I take a pump with a capacity of 1100 l/h and try to blow the dust out of the stones - a lot of debris gets blown out... After the water change, I put a sponge with the pump for 3 days... and then I remove it.

Phillip9722

What percentage of water are you replacing?

Christopher4108

In my system, there are 1000 liters of water, and I change 30 liters twice a week. The maturation period was about 3 months the first time, and after a year, there was a restart after 1 month. The new system is one year old. I can't imagine a reef without sand.

Jennifer7578

Well, as they say, to each their own. Take a look at the posted photos, the aquarium and sump of our colleague. I am more than sure that over time you will also switch to keeping hard corals, and many things will become unnecessary. In the photo, you can see a working aquarium, a thin layer of aragonite sand in the front, a H&S 150-F2001 skimmer, calcium is added using the Balling method, and that's it. Almost everyone in Europe is switching to one method or another for creating aquariums, but they rarely mix them. Just like here, there are debates about the advantages of one system or another, with plenty of arguments for and against. Not all systems are viable. As for expenses, you understand, none at all. Best regards.

John3335

Please describe in more detail what the compartments in the samp in the picture are, as I have a gut feeling that the samp is not just an additional container with a foam generator.

Brooke3987

Samp is not mine, as I wrote. Filter in order. 1. Osmodistillate 2. Boling/additives for replenishing calcium and trace elements, as described. 3. Container for live rock. Next, skimmer, dividers to reduce water speed, return pump.

Michele

The fact that the filamentous algae appeared on the live rock is not very good; under normal conditions, it does not appear on the rocks. I would recommend removing the substrate altogether if you are not planning to add deep sand bed.

Andrew7823

Of course, it's not just a container for the skimmer; it's also a refugium (algae filter), a container for carbon and anti-phosphate, and a device for bubble diffusion. Some people add bio-balls and grow mangroves...

Sherri1320

The filamentous algae have receded, and there are 2-3 mm long bristle-like red algae. I hesitate to remove the substrate for now. The system is unstable, and I fear a bloom of algae with further additions.

Danny

This is a compartment, as you write, for coal, antifreeze, but by no means a refugium. The bioballs of the nitrate factory, and the nitrate reducer, as you can see, are not provided.

Michelle5859

I see nothing contradictory between the photo and my aquarium (system). The skimmer, like mine with an injector, I approve of; I make them myself for $350. In my opinion, there is enough sand. I have plenty of hard corals (SPS), and they feel fine. If you don't give up on the substrate, then the nuisance algae will not leave you, and you can forget about SPS (small-polyped corals). Your reef will consist of soft corals if you're lucky.

Selena4467

Do you mean to completely remove it? But I only have it in the front enclosed part, 2-3 cm.

Karen1649

A tolerance of 0.5 cm is acceptable, but it's better to use crushed shell; there is 1 kg 8 (this is also aragonite). If there isn't enough currency for sand, I wouldn't say that it's a problem with your equipment. I apologize in advance if I offended you.

Marie5348

I don't see anything wrong with any substrate, whether it's sand or gravel. I have a DSB, but in the sump, there's a layer of detritus a few centimeters thick. The only thing is that the gravel will start to darken and become overgrown with algae, unlike sand, which lightens as it matures.

Todd

It's not about the money. I want to see if I can create an aquarium purely with the "Berliner" system. If the aquarium doesn't mature in about 1.5 months, I'll install a nitrate reducer, UV sterilizer, and that's it. Then we will all have an opinion about this or that aquarium creation system. P.S. I have to travel 900 km to the bird, 3.5 hours to Budapest, and it's just a stone's throw to Slovakia, but the Slovaks have a hard time with the sea.

Heather

Just not a nitratetriductor, it would be wasted money.

Stacey4437

Why do you think so? Was a floor filter made of sulfur balls used in your aquarium?

Leonard

Why don't you remove the detritus? Are the nitrates normal? Is it not an excessive load on the system?

Brooke

Well, this is the very "dearest dirt" according to Shimek. There are all sorts of little bugs crawling around in it, and I would say there are a lot of them.

Monica

I also join the question - WHY?

Joyce

Several micro photos. What kind of creatures are these?

Noah1632

The first one looks like a sea anemone, but it seems a bit pale, and I don't know about the others.

Darrell5975

In the second photo, there are lime algae. They require a lot of calcium. There were some, and the foxfish ate them all.

Brandy

In the first photo, in the center, there are polyps that may grow into a colony if everything goes well. Everything else will perish with the first surgeon or zebrasoma. The nitrate reducer is difficult to control (feed), etc. If something goes wrong, everything will perish. For example, if the lights go out.

Amy9618

I didn't think about the light. Please advise how to get rid of the hiccups, I caught 4, saw a few more, but the fastest ones are still here.

Jacqueline6670

Why catch cute iks? They scratch around for pebbles and pick up leftover food. I have about 5 of them that have been living for a year, and they haven't been involved in anything criminal.

Todd

Judging by the abundance of "life," you got a good rock. In the first photo - some Zoantidae, In the second - a fan-shaped alga, possibly Udotea spinulosa? In the last - a web-like sponge, closer to Clathrina sp.

Jason5071

They won't take up the corals, eventually out of hunger.

Mariah

I got the stone in Budapest, by the way, what are the prices for live stones with us?

Adrienne

Such problems occur for everyone. Good - dead Late at night, I turn on the red flashlight and prick it with a needle (awl). There are traps for aquamedics for sheep.

Daniel8015

MANIACS!!!! CRUEL PEOPLE!!! You might as well start stabbing the fish that nibble on the corals!!! CUTTING ANEMONES THAT STING INTO PIECES!!! yeah...

Amanda5586

Pavlik, in closed systems, there can be undesirable individuals, and there's no escaping that.

Cynthia

Well, they don't eat corals, at least not in my case. I haven't noticed Max doing it either. But it's true that they flip unanchored rocks with fragments - I saw one recently, it was as big as a pack of cigarettes!

Joshua9340

Aiptasia of about 15 young ones is growing, what to do with them?

Cheyenne2747

Well, what's wrong with them?!?!?!!

Mario

1. Camel shrimp 2. Table vinegar 3. Calcium solution Vinegar didn't help me, I liked the calcium solution more. Into the syringe and, most importantly, to get into the body. In that corner where the camels sit - not a single one at all. And they don't walk around because a nasty cantigaster is prowling.

Tracy4603

Aiptasia are characterized by uncontrolled reproduction and ultimately smother and burn other corals. In the section for mini-nemo (Leo) on the forum, one can observe this horrifying picture of Aiptasia overpopulation!

Russell8484

Does anyone have experience working with this drug? They say it destroys aiptasia.

Rodney

I read somewhere about it in the logo. The principle is the same as vinegar and chalk. What's the point of paying money?

Angel2396

by taking up space, and the appearance of the apothecary is nothing special.

Richard2180

Igor has camel shrimp in Bereznyaki, they say they eat aiptasia, and they look original, I got one for myself. They seem to be sent by train or another carrier.

Dennis

I will express my opinion: Crabs are very useful animals; they constantly scrape and clean the rocks from dirt, detritus, and other debris that deteriorate the "living" properties of the stone. Aiptasia is a very harmful creature, especially when it settles in coral colonies or nearby. It can really overwhelm them; their population needs to be controlled with vinegar and kalk. Completely eradicating them is unrealistic. I preferred vinegar more; the main thing is to get the needle into the body, while I use kalk when it's hard to reach the target.

Michael826

I discovered what I believe to be a bristle worm, see 8-10, eating algae, and I thought they were predators or ate everything indiscriminately?

Alyssa6727

Yeah, I have the same one, it popped out, bit off and ate the seaweed and went back into its burrow. Let it live or kill it?

Jesse

I will try to remove it, but it's easier said than done. See the link, it seems there are only 3 types of predators, but I don't want to take the risk.

Kristen2246

It is very easy to deal with bristle worms. You buy one boxer shrimp, and it controls the population of the worms. It loves them very much. The worms that crawl among the rocks and in the sand will not be touched by the shrimp, but those that venture near the corals will be eaten by the shrimp.

Rebecca

Please provide a name in Latin.

Destiny

Stenopus hispidus

Crystal4879

In recent days, the foam in the skimmer is not forming consistently. Is this related to the maturation of the aquarium?

Ronald5720

It's a normal occurrence. At night, I don't produce much foam, but during the day, it's more intense. Some people even turn off the foamer at night...

Tracy4603

And they do it in vain; at night the pH drops, and the shutdown of the skimmer further exacerbates this process (the skimmer raises the pH).

Wendy8540

Two months have passed since the launch. Nitrites and nitrates are at zero, CA 420. Caulpera has started to grow, and bryopsis is a big problem. I plan to start stocking. Please advise on what to start with, what to check before stocking, and how many fish and invertebrates to introduce to avoid making mistakes.

Jeffery

I recommend starting with herbivores: 3-4 Zebrasoma 2-4 dogfish 1 surgeonfish (hippatus) 1 Lyretail (white-bellied surgeon) 20-30 snails (Turbo); if you have snails, then you can't have hermit crabs 4-6 brittle stars Then add whatever you like for enjoyment. Start with soft corals; they are easier, but if you plan to focus on hard corals later, don't plant toxic soft ones (Xenia, Sarcophyton, Sinularia). I recommend starting with Clavularia.

Daniel4967

Will Zebrasoma flavescens, Solarias fasciatus, Paracanturus hepatus, and a few turbo snails handle the algae? Should I feed them, or will the greens in the aquarium be enough for them at first?

Amber6362

If everything is fine in the aquarium, the algae will go away on their own. However, a couple of urchins will be happily polishing your stones, but you can forget about the caulerpa – they'll eat it...

Ricky9405

I don't feel sorry for Caulerpa, but I do for Carolina. I won't settle the hedgehogs; I move like bulldozers, turning everything in my path. Moreover, neither Bryopsis nor Caulerpa will survive on their own.

Martha

Bryopsis will pass. It just needs time, from 1 month to 4. The set you suggested is gorgeous, especially Solarias fasciatus. It's really amazing. I had it at one time, but now I can't find it anywhere. As for additional feeding, you'll see for yourselves. I don't think it's necessary. Maybe a little with artemia.

Sara

nothing like that!!! they move around very carefully

Brooke3987

They move carefully, but it's really a pity for Carolina - on the stones, a nice lilac color, white stripes appear after the hedgehog - it clearly removes the top layer completely.

Brandy1134

there are no cantigaster on them

Laura9093

I measured calcium today at 410, could it be that Carolina consumes it so much? There are no living creatures yet, so theoretically, no one else should be consuming it. Calcium is replenished with water changes once a month, for now. Who and what methods are used to raise calcium in the aquarium?

Christopher1774

ring reactor or calvasser... I have both... Calvasser needs to be poured in any case...

Ross

You can't raise calcium with Kalkwasser; it raises KH hardness, but it's essential (if there's an auto top-off system, I can explain how to make it, it's easy). You need a calcium reactor; I recommend Deltec or I can make one. No additives will bring the desired result except for a calcium reactor. Regarding fish: Zebrasoma flavescens look better in pairs; I would keep 4 of them. Solarias fasciatus can have more than two, but not more than two of the same species, otherwise, there will be a fight. Hepatus is fine alone. A pair of snails is funny; at least 15. I have 30-40 adult snails and 100-200 small ones. Good luck.

Samuel6138

I have an auto-top-up system. It only adds calcium hydroxide. I prepare it in advance in a 10-liter bucket (osmotic water and a tablespoon of calcium hydroxide, it settles until the water becomes clear and the hydroxide settles, then I pour it into the auto-top-up container, and in return, I add more osmotic water to the bucket...) or is something wrong with my method? Is there an easier way? Share your thoughts...

Alan273

Filling from a bucket is cool, but there's a simpler system. In the refill container, osmosis is poured, and the auto-refill system supplies it to the container with kalkwasser, and then to the dosing pump to raise the pH faster. The container with kalkwasser is a vessel (150 mm pipe made of acrylic, height 500-800 mm) where you add the powder (kalkwasser) from different brands, and there is a pump with a capacity of 500-700 l/h that mixes the powder. In the kalkwasser system I produce, the pump does not turn off, and the powder does not enter the aquarium. I need a photo; I will look for it. I sold my last kalkwasser system to a client for 100 currency units.

Anthony7814

it wouldn't be bad to take a visual look...

Debra8438

Do you have a Deltek or a homemade one? Is there a lot of hassle with the reactor, I mean maintenance?

Tina

I have a homemade one, made according to American websites (calc reactor). The calcium reactor is also homemade and very good; I am satisfied with it. I can make it better than a factory one. The maintenance with the calcium reactor is only during its startup, then you need to add carbonate (filler) every six months and recharge the CO2 tank. But it's not a cheap toy, but it's necessary.

Tracey

Yesterday I took measurements of the parameters, everything is normal, KH 6 - shock. I can't understand why? There are still no living organisms. I decided to raise it with baking soda, dissolved 3 teaspoons and added it to the KH, another 3 on site, and another 3. KH 10. Everywhere it says that raising it more than 1 degree per day is not advisable, calcium will precipitate. Today I measure calcium 440, stable. Can anyone explain what happened?

Daniel132

The process of calcium precipitation occurs continuously, forming insoluble calcium carbonate, and since bicarbonate ions contribute to carbonate hardness, the hardness decreases accordingly; the reverse process takes place in the calcium reactor.

Larry

I bought a zebrasoma, a hepatitis, a solaris, 5 turbo snails, and 4 corals to start with. In about 10 days, I will add more. Please provide the names of the corals.

Curtis

The first is a clavularia, I have the same one. The second is some kind of brain coral, the third might be favia; I have about a dozen small polyps on the rock with clavularia that look similar, people said it's favia or favites. The fourth is ksenia; if the polyps are pulsating, then it's definitely her, although that's not a definitive indicator. I got a coral similar to yours; they said it's ksenia, although it differs somewhat from yours. Take a look here as well.

Martha

In the second photo, there is a mollusk - a giant clam. It's quite a complex creature to keep. It requires PERFECT water... If it's not a secret, where did you get it and how much did it cost?

Chad9037

On the seventh - my favorite dog. It devours all the lower vegetation. Tridacna needs A LOT of light and good water, in my opinion, you rushed it. And by the way, it needs to be fed with plankton.

Nicole2404

I completely agree...

Kristen2246

I bought a tridacna in Budapest for 75 USD. Its size is about 7 cm. If anyone has experience keeping it, please share.

Joseph9057

You can find tridactyls in Egypt, they are lying around underfoot. It's a pity I didn't want to wake anyone up at 1:00 AM, otherwise there would have been 8 of them... No one has complained about their content, Russians are successfully keeping them.

Anthony4281

Tridactyls are my dream... If anyone has leads on purchasing them, keep me in mind...

Natasha7622

How does the mixing take place? Best regards.

Jennifer

The picture shows a pump directed to the bottom. I have all the spare parts and can assemble it for you, message me privately as this is someone else's topic.

Kimberly

I bought 2 Lysa Amboinensis and a Helmon last week to fight aiptasia. After 2 days, the shrimp disappeared somewhere, and the Helmon is paying no attention to the aiptasia. Maybe it doesn't touch them while it finds feather worms?

Brianna

Helmon aiptaziy does not eat. They are eaten by shrimp - camels. And if I'm not mistaken, the males have large claws.

William1830

Visually, it doesn't seem to eat, but I don't have any in my aquarium at all, although they were initially spotted. However, in Nemo, they have already grown into small jungles.

Julie3950

So does Helmon eat aiptazi or not?

Cheryl

He eats and even a lot, if he is healthy and not in shock from transportation.

Christopher4108

My Helmon aiptasia doesn't eat; I thought the reason was that it was fed with artemia instead of tubifex as usually recommended. It feels great, has a good appetite, and there seem to be no complaints from other inhabitants of the aquarium.

Ryan7682

Which one? Ice cream?

Karen2578

It's amazing... My fish eat moths, coretra, and large artemia every day, but despite that, they don't let the aiptasia through. Just recently, one got onto a new rock, and it didn't take long before it was gobbled up. Maybe you are overfeeding it? I usually feed once a day in the evening, and the fish spend the whole day looking for something to eat from the "available" food.

Erica

Similarly, he eats everything now, the series "The Slimming" has ended, and there is no more aiptaziy and mayano has disappeared.

Jessica

My helmet is currently friends with the aiptasia. Someone started nibbling on the brain coral from the back, so I had to move it higher from the bottom. In the photo, you can see how it has been gnawed, and the same goes for the underside. I noticed it by chance, as the aragonite near the coral was displaced and something like a tunnel was made under the coral. When I lifted it, I didn't notice anything underneath. Crab or worm, what do you think?

Devon107

I feed Artemia with frozen food. I feed all the fish in the same way, once a day in the evening, and I alternate live food with dry food, but Helmon does not eat dry food.

Jill9137

Apparently, this is the dying tissue of the coral.

Rachel9060

In 2 days? Still, it seems to me that someone is feeding them.

Jesse

Once, while cleaning the glass with a magnetic scraper, I accidentally caught an anemone. In the evening, when I came home a day later, I found a bare skeleton.

Collin

The brain coral is eating the helmon, has already destroyed half of it, and is not interested in aiptasia. It doesn't take food (artemia, bloodworms), but it obviously finds something to eat, as it hasn't lost weight. I still hope that it will eventually try the aiptasia. Another question has arisen: how to deal with bryopsis? The fish don't touch it at all. Does anyone have experience with keeping hermit crabs? Maybe they will destroy it?

Amanda

Bryopsis eats sea hares. It can be plucked instead of the hare, by hand, gradually, in a month or two it will disappear. The foxfish also eats it. The little dog. The hermit crab, I haven't noticed it eating Bryopsis. In particular, the one with red eyes and blue claws.

Gabriel

The foxfish also does not eat.

Caleb6320

Strange. My cheeks were pinched.

Nicole7268

Maybe I should stop feeding them altogether?

Linda

I think we can give it a try. And the dogfish doesn't eat briozoans either.

Dana6523

Solarias has eaten all the lower ones and doesn't touch the higher ones; by the way, it also doesn't take food, so it will probably die since it has started to lose a lot of weight. On the second day, I found the tridacna turned over in the morning; could it be moving to find a better spot? Maybe it doesn't get enough light from below, so I moved it higher and will see what happens.

Debra8438

Maybe someone can share their experience with keeping gonipora (light, feeding, etc.). By the way, Tridacna has changed its position again.

Hunter1471

Try to lightly surround it with slightly larger stones without being fanatical.

Alejandro

I occasionally feed the goniopora (once a month) with Coral fluid. It sits on the sand. The light consists of 4 pieces of 80-watt T5. It has definitely been living like this for six months.

Stephen5841

The second day of the calcareous algae does not open, to determine the cause I measured the water parameters. pH 8.5 KH 8 Nitrate, nitrite not detected Ca 400 Mg 1560 Could the high magnesium level be the reason? The other inhabitants of the aquarium feel fine. I add half the recommended amount of Aquamed. REEF LIFE Magnesium.

Jeremy8404

REEF LIFE Magnesium - recommended 5 ml per week. The magnesium range is 1250-1350 according to Randy. God knows why it doesn't open up. At Max's, it grows; it closed up and then opened again. I have a fragment that's the same; it initially grew, fully opened, then closed after a month, and then opened halfway... and so on. In general, there are a bunch of other water parameters - alkalinity, redox potential, strontium and iodine supplements... etc.

Mark9853

There is too much magnesium, 1300 is the norm, but the KH is low with such calcium and magnesium levels.

Wanda666

I add strontium and iodine with Aquamed, but I can't measure it. REEF LIFE KH Buffer by weight for 5 liters of water + REEF LIFE Iodine 150 ml / one container. REEF LIFE Calcium + REEF LIFE Strontium + REEF LIFE Magnesium according to the instructions for 5 liters of water / another container. Two dosing pumps add half of the recommended dose, that is, 50 ml, at 3 a.m. The additives enter the sump at different locations and do not mix until they enter the water.

Alexandra

Due to the excess magnesium in the water, lime algae began to grow vigorously, covering even poorly lit areas.

Rebecca

Do you think magnesium is to blame?

Nicholas2252

Magnesium stimulates the growth of Carolina, this is a fact. The excess of magnesium has triggered rapid development, what negative consequences it will have for the other inhabitants and whether they will be visible over time. For now, Mg remains at the level of 1560-1580, tests from Sera, hopefully, are more or less accurate.

Chris

With Carolina, it should be this way, I consider it normal. There will be no consequences; I have been observing the rapid growth of Carolina for a long time now.

Joshua3019

I meant a high level of magnesium. How is the calcium reactor doing?

Russell8484

The water density has been adjusted by Aquamed using a salinometer, and there were no complaints about it; it was maintained at a level of 1.024. Today, I measured the density with a refractometer, and the density turned out to be 1.027.

Patrick4439

I have 1.026, I consider this normal. With increased salinity, the foam separation process works better.

Jennifer9100

I completely agree about the foam separation, however, such salinity is unlikely to be beneficial for corals.

Kimberly

I have many corals and SPS, and they grow well with soft corals.

Michael3221

As is known, the natural density in the world's oceans is 1.023. Is there any point in keeping animals in extreme conditions for them? My corals also do not die and seem to be developing well, or at least that's what I think; I don't know what they think. In any case, I will keep the density at 1.024.

Emily

In the Red Sea, it measured 1.026.

Craig7302

What did you measure with? Not with aquamed. With a salinometer?

Julie3950

Each salinometer, hydrometer, and refractometer measures with an error. More details at ... Therefore, there is a range from to that is NOT critical in PRINCIPLE. A salinity of 1027 and 1023 is good.

Joshua448

Yes, I agree with you and fully understand that there are inaccuracies. That's why I try to maintain an average of 1.024. Unrelated to the topic, does anyone know what the salinity of the Dead Sea is?

Melissa1838

Atlantic Ocean 34.00-37.30 Mediterranean Sea 36.00-39.50 Red Sea 38.00-42.00 Dead Sea 260-270, up to 310 Black Sea 18.00 Baltic Sea 6.00-11.00 In permille

Brian

I acquired a tubastrea. Share your experience in keeping it. I placed it in the shade, haven't fed it yet, and it hasn't fully opened up. Does it like current, how often should I feed it and with what? What is the feeding method?

Kimberly2102

I know that I need to feed at night.

Bryan1851

Send the photo...

Amanda5586

Does it open during the day?

Alejandro

As soon as it develops, I will take a photo.

Joshua9847

It's been a week since the aiptasia disappeared from the aquarium; Helmon did his job. I never noticed him touching the aiptasia, although I was keeping an eye on him. The peculiarity of my Helmon's behavior is that after the main lights are turned off, when the other fish seek shelter and prepare for the night, Helmon shows particular activity. Perhaps during these hours he was hunting them, or maybe the aiptasia takes on a color attractive to Helmon under the light of just the actinics. By the way, Helmon also doesn't take food, but his belly is full.

April3499

On the right under the goniopora is the tubastrea. Isn't it too shaded?

Rodney3101

beautiful aquas!!!

Danielle8118

Who knows about the Seio pump? Does anyone have any feedback on the heads?

Chelsea567

This is the same as ea Stream. We were at A&A. There were no complaints. Where did you find them? And for how much? Here - a controller for them. And here is an alternative, and then select "Koralia" on the tab.

Gabrielle5053

The water circulation is not quite satisfactory, so I want to install a few less powerful heads, and I'm looking around. Next week, I will go to Budapest and will write to you about the prices there.

Daniel9952

I wouldn't recommend it; he will bring ich or velvet, it's 99 percent likely, unless you have a UV lamp. As for the zebrasoma, I would also add it at the last moment since it's a territorial fish, and if there are other tangs, they will fight during the introduction. I would start with damsels.

Tami

Well, at Max's place, there are 4 surgeons: 2 yellow zebras, a hepatos, and a white-breasted one. They live well and don't fight! And if they start fighting - a stick on the head!

Susan9583

No joking! There is a method for reconciling feuding fish. We catch the bully and lightly hit it on the head with a stick, BAM - it helps.

Ross

Don't you think that a discussion about someone else's topic is taking place?

Jasmine

Better with electricity

Ryan2281

Who kept the tubastre? How long did it remain unopened after purchase?

Emily

They mainly open and feed at night; I have seen them open 20-30 times in 2 years.

Tiffany5069

How do you feed then?

Andrea9320

I saw a video somewhere about the feeding process of tubastrea with a syringe, where artemia is used, and each polyp is fed with it.

Derek7322

She doesn't want to open up to me for about a week, so for now, there's nothing to feed her.

Joyce

There is a company called TROPICMARIN that produces very good salt and a lot of various products. They have two jars of food for corals: 1 zooplankton and 2 phytoplankton. You take a spoonful (included in the set), take a cup of water from the aquarium, add the powder, stir it after 5 minutes, and pour it into the aquarium when the lights are off, and once while the lights are on. Also, this coral should be in a horizontal position.

Alicia5489

Tubastrea didn't like the spot; it was obviously a weak current. After moving it to another location, it opened up within half an hour.

Corey3201

Several new acquisitions, what are the correct names and care conditions? I am particularly interested in the 4 at the top, light, food, flow?

David7773

Here is the overall view of the aquarium. Any comments or advice on placing the inhabitants? I removed the stream and installed 2 Seio pumps 3200, with an Eheim 1200 behind the reef and a return pump of 2500 from Aquamed. For now, I think this is enough since I don't have acropora. By the way, Seio pumps cost 80 euros retail in Budapest. Seio 4000 and above are priced at 100 dollars.

Ryan

People, what conditions are needed for keeping alcyonium?

Kevin

Soft coral doesn't need bright light; it can be planted somewhere on the edge. It's one of the unobtrusive and charming corals.

Sherri1320

So, from left to right: 1st photo is not a coral but a sponge; it doesn't want light at all and doesn't want to be pulled out, air gets into the pores and pieces die off. 2nd photo is dendronephthya, difficult to keep, soft coral, needs a lot of light, requires current and feeding. 3rd photo shows very light mushrooms, they don't want much light. 4th photo looks very much like Euphyllia anchor, in any case, it wants a lot of light.

David4089

In my opinion, this is not euphoria. Max had something like that. I will ask what it is called.

Rebecca

The commercial name is either katala or kafala, I can't make it out.

Steven

Recently, I've been thinking about creating a plankton reactor. Do you think it's worth pursuing and is it even necessary?

Dana6523

Hello, in my opinion, this is elegant catalepsy. Complicated stuff.

Johnny

This is definitely Catallophilia. The light is above average, the current is moderate but necessary, and feeding is very cautious. Very unpredictable!

Heather

What kind of creatures live on disco somas? Are they dangerous to other inhabitants?

Alexander

I can't say for sure, some kind of slug! As far as I know, it's not dangerous!

Daniel

There are about 20-25 of them. Won't they be oppressed by the disco?

Tara2761

YES, AND THEY ARE VERY DANGEROUS! FOR CORALS, 99 PERCENT OF SNAILS WITHOUT SHELLS FEED ON CORALS. I DON'T HAVE TIME TO SEARCH FOR THE DETAILED NAME, BUT THEY NEED TO BE REMOVED. THEY HUNT AT NIGHT, AND YOU CAN CATCH THEM WITH A FLASHLIGHT!

Loretta5483

Does anyone have suggestions for dealing with hydroids? There is no way to choose the stones.

Gregory

a beautiful thing, but what is it dangerous for?

Michelle1662

It spreads at the speed of light, suffocating the wildlife. It's something like mini aiptasia but not as aggressive. Remove it from the tank as soon as you notice it. I also didn't remove it right away due to inexperience, and now I've paid the price. I removed it today with a toothbrush and tweezers for about three hours and I'm not sure about the result.

Elizabeth

Or maybe take a stone and rub it specifically with a brush?

Amy9618

Many people whose hydroid polyps have proliferated have eventually disappeared, including myself, and I have not observed any particular harm to other animals from them. I never even tried to remove them.

Mike

I have a small colony that almost perished after settling in the clavularia; the polyps did not open, and part of them died, specifically around the colony.

Chad4168

Last week, I observed a rather interesting phenomenon; cone snails were trying to reproduce for about an hour, if I understood correctly. The event took place around noon, and the amount of milt or spores, I'm not exactly sure, was quite large, even causing the water to become cloudy for a while. I don't know what triggered the reproduction, as there was no water change or alteration of water parameters. Unfortunately, I couldn't take successful photos; in the posted pictures, some things are visible, but I couldn't capture the overall picture.

Veronica

Here are two new residents, Pocillopora and Plerogyra, acquired recently. Tubastrea after feeding. I can't seem to take a decent photo of the aquarium's appearance; it looks somewhat gloomy, although in reality, it looks completely different.

Megan

Catch the creature and examine it closely. If the boundary between the "foot" and the "back" is clearly visible as a fold surrounding the body, it is likely a nudibranch. If the body is flat and the branches of the intestine are often visible through the body, it is quite possible that it is a marine flatworm. They can be quite large. In one "rocky-algae" habitat, there are plenty of half-centimeter red-orange flatworms that clean glass better than a magnet. Predatory nudibranchs usually stand out with a certain "design" of protrusions on the dorsal side of the body. Without seeing the creature, it is difficult to identify, and it is not entirely clear in the photo.

Megan

At the tips of the polyps, the pocillopora loses its polyps; has anyone encountered something similar?

Alexandra

check the calcium and what light do you have? but it could also be bacteria if it goes further and lower in a couple of days, then it means bacteria have started to eat, this can also happen with acroporas

Michelle5859

How to fight them?

Sharon

In this photo, to the left of the coral, which is called Seriatopora, there is a LPS (large-polyp stony coral) in dangerous proximity. The Galaxea coral, whose tentacle length can reach 20 cm, is especially concerning given the current situation. Separate them in different directions, and the Seriatopora will recover.

Alicia5489

Is this S.caliendrum?

Raven7170

there is a description of her in this catalog

Brian7092

Today I just captured the exact same moment of aggression between Galaxea and Pocilapora; I will have to look for a more suitable place.

Robert5335

Galaxea is one of the most aggressive corals found in hobbyist aquariums; the distance from it to neighboring corals should be at least 20 cm. Well, this has been mentioned before. I don't like this coral in the reef, and if there is a lack of space, it's better not to keep it. As for the Seriatopora, how long have you had it?

Melissa1838

I don't exactly remember when I settled the seriotopora, probably about 3-4 months ago.

Jeffery

What kind of plague has appeared in the aquarium? A type of cyanobacteria? Nitrites, nitrates, and phosphates are at zero. The temperature was 29 degrees for a while due to the heat; could it have triggered their appearance? Did Ksenia close up because of the algae or for other reasons?