• Rodactises are dying.

  • Melissa3200

Please suggest what could have happened in the aquarium that caused all the rodactis to gradually die... everything else seems to be fine, all tests are normal. Maybe the nitrate and phosphate levels have increased, but they were like that before... There are no rodactis left, and now the same is happening with another soft coral, I don't know the name, but it looks similar... it is also decreasing in size, turning white, and later dissolving...

John3187

All my Ricardis turned white and dissolved when I put lenses on the diodes, due to overexposure. If the light/settings were changed during the month, that could be the reason.

Devon107

Hi. Maybe it's the photo, but it seems to me that there's not enough light. Have you changed the lamps recently? You've been told that salt is to blame: try to adjust the dosage of potassium, iodine, and micronutrients (I didn't find potassium and strontium in it). Although I think it's more about the light.

Joshua448

Yes, there may be a bit too little light. But why is only one type suffering? SPS corals are feeling good. LPS corals are also growing... Of course, I will gradually replace the lamps, but I also suspect the salt—I did a couple of water changes with it and used 7 kg; now I've returned to HW.

Adam

If the SPS and LPS feel fine, the salt is not to blame. There is nothing terrible in it as they scare you, the buffer doesn't hold and a couple of elements are lacking, all of this can be fixed. The softness may be suffering from the proximity of the LPS and SPS... still, check the light. As I understand, the SPS and LPS are closer to the light fixture, while the rodactis is on the sand itself; the photo looks very dim. Place the briarium (if you have one) on the sand; if it opens well enough so that the bodies are not visible, then there is enough light.

Kimberly4253

I have the same problem; all the rodacks dissolved, along with several mushrooms and Ricordea. The issue is likely not with the light, as everything was fine, and the settings haven't changed (the light is LED without a controller), but then suddenly they started to slowly decline. I changed the salt, a new light with a controller is installed, and there is no overexposure or underexposure. The parameters are normal, and there are no sharp fluctuations in salinity or temperature. Yet, the slow die-off continues, even though the creatures were thriving, growing, and reproducing, and then suddenly they start to slowly contract, turn white, and dissolve.

Nicole7122

I apologize, but could you please describe all your parameters, what kind of LEDs you have, how often and how many replacements you do per month (in liters), and what percentage of your LEDs burn out, as this is quite important, and words like "everything is fine" mean nothing, at least in your case.

Nicholas

Temperature 26-27 Salinity - 1.026 Pterophyllum tests - NO2 - 0. NO3 - between 4 and 10. NH3/4 - 0. PO4 - 0. pH - 8.0. KH - 7. Light from Spamcheg, peak power of 80% for blues, 45% for whites. Water change regularly once a week, 10%.

John

It's clear, it's okay, acceptable if there's softness. So what is the reason then? What was the salt and what is it at this stage? Or what else do you add to the aquarium? And if it's not the salt, as it is said to be the culprit, then what else could it be if not the salt?!

Ronald

I started with TIM salt, then the rodactis began to decline, after that I switched to blue treasure, but because of it the acans started to peel, so for over a month now I've been using hw-inemix professional salt. I don't add any supplements.

Elizabeth882

Well, this is definitely better than those. Maybe one month is not enough time for improvement? But we need to look for the reasons, check if the tests or the hydrometer, reflectometer are not lying. pH 8.0, KH 7. Double-check, not lower, although it's already at the minimum.

Kathleen

I had a low KH-4+... could this be the reason for the death?... but the SPS and LPS are feeling fine... probably for now.