null - Discuss

Ryan7682

Natalie

LED Power Supply The basis was taken from a computer ATX power supply of 360 W. After modification, the output is 35V 8A, 8V (not stabilized), 5V, 16V (not stabilized). The essence of the modification is to remove the unnecessary components, replace the output diodes and capacitors, rewire the output transformer windings, and rewind the output inductor. I probably won't go into detail; for beginners, it's easier to buy a ready-made power supply. In switch-mode power supplies, if something goes wrong, there can be a pile of burnt components. But if there's a desire, I can provide guidance on what to do and how.

Stephanie4990

Here will be a series of photos of the controller.

Charles5941

It doesn't matter where the hands come from if they are golden, and yours not only come from the right place but are also sharpened at the right angle.

Matthew1280

How much do the drivers cost and what are the parameters?

Tiffany5069

You currently have 5 drivers in use, is the 6th one a backup? Is another SD channel planned? Can you use an Arduino Nano instead of the Arduino PRO Mini ATMEGA328P 5V? What is the length of your heatsink? At maximum load, what temperature does it reach and what is the ambient temperature? And can you provide a description of the modification of the computer power supply somewhere? What is the intended use for the 8V and 16V?

Michael3221

The driver parameters input 36V (I have 35) are enough for 10 LEDs, current up to 1.2A. In terms of price: MBI6651 22 inductor 100 µH 7 (cardboard pavilion 9V) tantalums 5 - 6 diode 2 resistor + PCB + flux + ... 2 Total about 40.

Brandon4517

I also bought 2 pieces of 750 mm. LEDs at 150W. But now I'm thinking of putting everything on one beam. I'm curious if the profile will handle it in summer at 30 degrees in the room. A profile temperature of 50-52 degrees would suit me just fine. For the LED HT-E, the normal crystal temperature is 85 degrees, so the radiator should be 85-(3.26x5+1...2)=66 degrees. For the LED HR-E, it's 85-(2.7x9+1...2)=59 degrees. For iLEDs crystals, I wouldn't recommend going over 70 degrees. C3535U (C35L-U) 70-(3.1x8+1...2)=44 degrees (70-(2.9x8+1...2)=45 degrees). N3535U (N35L-U) 70-(3.0x4.4+1...2)=55 degrees (70-(2.8x4.4+1...2)=55 degrees).

Brian7092

I have a real 140W on a 750 mm profile. It definitely won't handle the maximum. If there's at least a small cooler, then yes.

Melissa3200

What encoder do you have?

Lauren

I don't know the brand, I bought a dozen on eBay a long time ago, and I used one of them. As a control tool, it turned out to be very convenient.

Julie4738

Will there be a schematic and firmware?

John828

It will be. I think there's no point in giving something completely raw. Yesterday I spent half the evening debugging two temperature sensors, and now it works. I think it will take another week to debug all the functions. The power part is not assembled yet; I have everything, I etched the board, but there's little time. Everything will be. If you have ideas for functionality, share them, maybe I'll add something else.

Ashley5975

Good news I've been monitoring the radiator temperature for a day, and it doesn't rise above 51°C. I consider this temperature acceptable in a room at 24°C.

Joseph6461

Judging by the photos of the controller case (especially considering that half of the power supply board is unloaded from components), it seems that it can easily fit into a standard computer power supply case. If only we could find a place to put the little display. What is the small board that has settled in the upper left corner?

Patricia

Here are the links to AliExpress with delivery. red indicator blue indicator clock module with battery and memory Arduino Arduino with programmer four-channel relay module eight-channel relay module four-channel power module on field-effect transistors LEDs eight-channel module on solid-state relays

Teresa

This is a SCART connector from the DVD player (it was on such a board) through which I connect the lamp.

Stephanie9175

I have plenty of Japanese moms... I was racking my brain, and in the end, I bought one like this.

Monica

I use these, they fit conveniently into the case and cost pennies.

Randy

The option looks very decent and is also more reliable. But you have to go to the market to stock up, and here you just took something from junk.

Colin1418

DIN5 is good, I have a temperature sensor attached to it for Yusupov. At first, I looked at the Jack 3.5, but I opted for DIN5 because it can be turned on/off "hot" without the fear of shorting the contacts. P.S. As for cutting into the case, one option is to use a multi-core cable with a conductor of the appropriate cross-section, connecting it directly to the board, and bringing it into the case through a cable gland, which holds the cable securely.

Jeremy

Regarding functionality 1. sound alarm (button presses, temperature deviation, water level) 2. a. fan for cooling water b. fan for cooling light c. exhaust fan from under the lid 3. PWM control of fans based on temperature, speed control through the third input, and start at 50% with subsequent decrease or increase to the required minimum This may not be relevant for open aquariums.

John

That's right! My Yusupov also modified the sensors on the SG5, with power going through a cable gland using a multi-core cable to the sockets on the back wall of the cabinet, and to the computer via DB9. But this is stationary and cannot be moved. On another controller, the sensor and fan are on the SG5, while the power is on R1 and mounted in an ATX power supply case.

Alan273

As an option, PWM can be improved both qualitatively and quantitatively with this chip, which operates on the I2C bus, offering 4096 levels instead of the native 256 of Arduino. Advantages include freeing up pins, increasing the number of PWM channels, and providing 12-bit PWM. Disadvantages include a slightly higher cost.

Curtis9143

If you replace the screen with an OLED, PWM D5, D6, D9, and D4, D8 will be freed up.

James5103

I apologize, but it seems to me that you have given almost the most expensive items.

Breanna9982

We will gladly take a look at your selection. Thank you.

Sarah

Just saw the topic. It's unclear what is overheating, the entire beam or the diodes themselves? Did you use thermal paste?

Julia

I apologize! I just realized that I was making a selection with delivery to Russia. As for the LEDs, I bought some for myself before the sanctions for 45 rubles each.

Shawn

(Do you recognize your profile?) The temperature sensor is glued in the middle of the beam. The maximum reading is 52°C with my current settings. I think it's an acceptable result (passive cooling). I really like the profile; the black color is just stunning. Although I did think of you () when I sawed off 3 mm of excess light diffuser. Everything is fine!

Chelsea567

Regarding the LEDs and specifically the color ratios, I have 20 red, 10 blue, and 10 white. I want to say that 5-6 white would probably be more than enough. I use 30% of the white at most.

Kevin3579

It's strange that they interfered. I usually do it with a slight allowance; a file can always be used to adjust it, which is better than having it too short. If you make it to the exact length, it will end up being loose - the groove is 4mm, while the plastic is 3mm thick. 52 degrees is normal, but that's the temperature of the beam. It would be good to apply thermal paste under the stars.

Chad

Thermal paste is sacred КПТ-8 where would we be without it I didn't even think about putting the lights without it

Sheila1322

quotes from private messages Choosing a power supply voltage - based on the maximum number of lights in the garland but not more than 36V for 10 pieces - take 35-36 V then the mode - let's say 1A Next, suppose you have 4 drivers with 10 lights each = 4A that is, PS 35V 4A = 140W in reality, it will be slightly less (but a technological reserve is also needed)

Tina

Power section

Laura7633

What chip is on the board?

Katie3017

shift register to increase the number of controller outputs from 3 outputs to 8 (in theory, it can be expanded significantly) here is an article Multiplying outputs using the 74HC595 shift register

Curtis

I thought so too.

Wendy8540

Could you please let me know when the sketch will be available? I'm very curious about how the work with multiple temperature sensors is organized.

Jennifer

Most likely next week Yesterday I launched the power part + the second light for the algae tank A small issue came up with the pump switch. + I want to redesign the screensaver (where the clock is) - to display all sensor and load states there - I will have to give up the large font (this will free up an additional 0.5kb of memory, which is a plus in itself).

Sheila

In the first post, I uploaded the beta version of the sketch. (I warn you that not all functions work as they should; 80% of the functionality is working - this sketch has been tested in my aquarium for two weeks.) The final version will be ready in a week.

Gabrielle5053

Come on, what else did you add?

Christopher4108

At the request of forum members, control of the LED cooling cooler. Step-by-step startup - first, we start the return pump, and after 1 minute, when the water level in the sump stabilizes, we start the skimmer. I made a separate feeding button for output A7 (so I don't have to navigate through the menu). Once I finish debugging, I will write in more detail and draw a diagram. Otherwise, my wife will kick me out (it's a mess).

James5103

Why output this to a separate pin? Implement a "long" press handling for any of the existing buttons to turn it off.

Courtney

The thought - it needs to be thought about.

Jeanne

If you want a separate button, connect up to 10 buttons through resistors to one analog input, and you will have a button. P.S. I looked at your circuit - you did the main control like that.

Loretta5483

For even greater protection of the aquarium, current sensors GY-712 can be installed. Before starting each important load, check if there is current. If not, notify about it.

Sarah

Cool. There will be something to tinker with. I've wanted to create something between a light fixture and a freshwater aquarium for a long time. I don't have the brainpower to start from scratch, so at least I can modify something ready-made. I'll definitely share the result, but something tells me it won't be anytime soon... (The original is slightly refined and works as is, but time is always short...)

Shane

From my experience: it's easier to write it yourself than to figure out someone else's work; you can look at some details from others, but not more than that.

Tammy

I didn't make any changes; I decided to use the original.

Patrick4439

In principle, there is already a refined sketch. Everything works! I will tidy it up and post it. It was a surprise for me with my flow pumps. Firstly, they don't always rotate in the right direction (there is a mechanical protection - like a three-brush system) - and in this moment, there is a click (noise). All of this is chaotic - sometimes it works normally in a pulsing mode for half an hour, sometimes it acts up. In general, for normal operation, pumps that always start correctly are needed.

Amy5468

I got into the same situation with pumps... I need pumps with constant voltage, and the speed is controlled by a PWM signal. I tried using gaskets to reduce the clicking noise, but it was all in vain, and the direction of rotation became even more unpredictable.

Mary

As an option, you can use Chinese pumps JEBAO WP10: on AMAZON or eBay.

Andrew419

I will later conduct my experiments on such a device. It works well. I just haven't written the different operating modes yet, I'm too lazy...

Dennis

a great option but with the current exchange rate - it will stay as it is for now ;(

David7773

Current view added light for the samp

Aaron580

Almost finished. I’m waiting for the water level sensor, and there will be automatic refilling. I removed the pump switch (wave generator) since it’s not an option with my pumps. As a result, the 220V channel remains unused - now I’m thinking about how to adapt it.

Daniel132

I ordered a water level sensor for 32.

Rodney3101

A good sensor, I've been using it for a long time.

Andrew9246

And how does it work? Inside there is a reed switch and in the float, a magnet?

John1464

Yes.

Kevin

Can you draw a diagram? Thank you!

Michele

I will definitely draw it. I will gather my strength, although it's clear from the source what goes where.

Russell8484

Guys, please write which pins on the Arduino to connect the display to, as it's not clear to me in the sketch)))

Kathleen

I think that post #1 is the answer to your question.

Natasha7622

Cool, I didn't think you would change the whole scheme so radically.

Debra6575

No, you didn't quite understand me, or I didn't express myself correctly)) Just for you, let's say in the first version of the controller it was done this way (correctly), and now there are all sorts of SCK, MOSI, CS)) I apologize for my stupidity))))))))))))))))

Amy5070

then wait until I draw the diagram I can't promise it will be quick, there's a lot of work - not much time

Joseph591

Oh! Today I got to my abandoned sketch. The idea is relevant (if it's still applicable) to avoid wandering through the menu for too long. From the initial screen (screensaver, information screen, or however you want to call it), you can transition not to the main menu by pressing ANY key, but to 4 DIFFERENT menus depending on whether BUTTON_UP, BUTTON_DOWN, BUTTON_OK, or BUTTON_CANCEL is pressed. Or, in your case, instead of one of the menus, you could implement the feeding mode.

Caleb6320

The idea is good, but in this version, I use an encoder. There is only one button - feeding mode - so I don't have to navigate through the menus.

Jeffrey2277

People often ask in private messages about drivers. I don't know the brand of the inductor, it's 100µH for a current over 1A. I have a 100µH for a current of 1.2A that I got at the market in pavilion 9V (it was 7). Any will work (they have different mounting and sizes). With the resistor, it's all simple. The formula is R = 0.1/Iout, so for 1A you need a 0.1 Ohm resistor. If it's hard to find the necessary values, use parallel connections.

Debbie3587

The first experience working with sprint layout and the first acquaintance with electronics. I want to make a homemade driver instead of buying one, as they are very expensive. Can you tell me if I have connected everything correctly?

William

Honestly, I didn't check the layout against the schematic, and I won't. But I advise you to take the layout from the datasheet!! Or here's a simple tip for you: print it on paper and place the components on top after you stop being surprised. Redraw it so that everything can be soldered. Pay special attention to the holes and pads, and the thickness of the tracks is not suitable at all. Still, take the layout from the datasheet, or at worst, mine - but it's also very compact and will be difficult for a beginner to assemble. Don't save space - in the beginning, it will help a lot.

Jennifer7578

I took the layout from the datasheet, I just wanted to ask if I did it correctly, I think it looks right. Is the trace thickness large or small? It doesn't take long to change it, I just drew the schematic to practice. I just can't even imagine the size of the components, that's why everything is done so roughly.

John1464

It's not always possible to buy what you need, so I first buy the components and then draw the schematic. Otherwise, you make the board, and you'll have to buy different components because the ones you need are unavailable, or slightly different ones are three times cheaper.

Adam

I thought about it. But since I am a beginner in this matter, not just a beginner but a "newbie in the field." I was just looking for components in online stores based on your pictures and the datasheet; the package of the component is indicated, and I searched for the part in the program among the macros based on the package marking. In general, everything is clear with the capacitors and the coil. What is unclear is what diode is needed and what resistors. As I understand it, the microchip doesn't matter what package it is in. I think I will figure it out with some difficulty.

Diana7891

From my experience, if there is a real desire to do it, then start by purchasing the components. For example, I had to draw the driver chip and the inductor by hand because there is no such library. Well, there is one, but if you print it out and place the real components on top, it doesn't match up.

Ross

I have another problem; I can't find where to buy all the parts. I tried to add everything to the cart on the spaceport store's website, but the total comes out to about 250-300 rubles for one set, so I must be calculating something wrong.

Kevin8087

They counted a lot, take a look at Imrade. There is a search and availability by points.

Dana6523

I calculated it on Imrade, without resistors. Either I'm choosing something wrong, or the price has jumped like that.

Wendy2244

I bought a microcontroller in Imrade, the rest at the card booths in pavilion 9B. Throttle 7, capacitors 5 each, diode 2. Well, let it be 10-20% more expensive now.

Joseph

Hello. Would this Arduino be suitable? Just a Nano without USB, and I would prefer not to solder on a port.

Diana8604

will do

Mitchell7972

Which pins is your encoder connected to? From the sketch, I understood: D2 - common D0 - A D1 - B But where should I connect the button press?

Elijah7048

#define Key_PIN 2 #define pin_A 0 #define pin_B 1 D2 is indeed the press common for all - ground

Larry9400

What does the line mean: #define keyApin 21 //Feed button A7 and then up to the thermometers? // Pressed buttons #define BUTTON_NONE 0 #define BUTTON_UP 1 #define BUTTON_DOWN 2 #define BUTTON_OK 3 #define BUTTON_CANCEL 4

Rodney7316

except for the encoder I made myself a button - feeding mode activation (so I don't have to search through the menu) As a result, I use only one button every day the encoder is only for settings. // Pressed buttons #define BUTTON_NONE 0 #define BUTTON_UP 1 #define BUTTON_DOWN 2 #define BUTTON_OK 3 #define BUTTON_CANCEL 4 these are just constants for menu operation

Brandon4517

Yes, undoubtedly a separate button is convenient. Is it connected to the hotel pin or through a resistor?

Jessica5016

separate pin #define keyApin 21 //Feeding button A7

Jeffery7866

Will there be a connection diagram?

Kevin8087

And where is pin 21??? Or is 21 not a discrete input, but a pin of the chip?

Steven7574

more carefully #define keyApin 21 //Feeding button A7 output A7

Darlene4238

Oh man, I didn't even notice the elephant, well, what does 21 mean?

Anne4851

the second secret elephant hidden at the very beginning of the code // Analog inputs can be used as digital input/outputs. // They are accessed by numbers from 14 (for analog input 0) to 19 (for analog input 5).

Jonathon8514

Well, I understood that, but it says up to 19, and I thought that only they support it.

Brandi

It would be really cool to move to the 1202 display! Is that really possible? And to localize the menu into Russian.

Jose

The source is open. Think further. Since I have resolved the question for myself - the controller performs its functions and I do not plan to have additional aquariums and controllers. Also, there is no necessary display 1202. It makes no sense for me to buy it. So go ahead, I will try to answer specific questions.

Amy

The scheme is still welcome; if the display and encoder are more or less clear, then the shift register is completely unclear))) Also, it would be good to have the libraries for Dunya in a zip file so we don't have to search the internet, and what version of the Dunya environment is it?

Yvette209

Unfortunately, there is no time right now to work on the schematic regarding the shift register.

Vanessa6144

The controller is partially implemented, the digital part is without the load control unit. I couldn't find any load control settings in the software except for auto-refill. Is it not written? So, it won't be possible to control the pump swing against the main constant flow? For example, we could rotate for 2 seconds and then stand still for 10-15 seconds (I want to add a pump to rotate against the main constant flow to reduce stagnation, and I think it will look good visually).

Jonathan6173

flow pump switch was and was fully debugged But for myself I had to give it up because my pumps do not always start rotating in the right direction and the pump start is quite noisy for me if you need it just uncomment two pieces of code in the sketch //---------Flow pump switch --------------------------------------------------------------

Brandy1134

this is the bit number it certainly corresponds to the output register 74xx595 (these are not pin numbers!)

Martha

It's clear about this, I understand the pump settings are in the Water menu. [s] on off P1 0-510 0-510 P2 0-510 0-510 Offset 0-510 Could you please provide more details from this point? And where are the settings for the skimmer refill pumps? I apologize for being annoying))) I'm not a programmer at all))) From the sketch, I understand that the refill is not adjustable, meaning it polls the sensor and automatically turns on the pump. I also understood that the skimmer and sump always run except for the 20 minutes during feeding. The temperature of the light fixture is also fixed, right?

Sara

pump 1 - on for 60 seconds - off for 20 pump 2 - on for 30 seconds - off for 40 initial offset of pump 2 start relative to pump 1 is 15 seconds

Breanna9982

So now I think the Inu 74595 with LEDs will be more visual and clearer))) And one more question: how to smoothly adjust the light dimming for dawn and sunset?

Mark

Between adjacent values, brightness smoothly increases or decreases. 7 - 0 8 - 100 9 - 200 From 7 AM to 8 AM, brightness changes every minute towards a smooth increase.

Luis3725

Another question has arisen: I'm connecting one temperature sensor (only for ice, since the water is mechanically maintained by the heater), and it is detected as the first Aqua((( how can I fix this without connecting a second sensor? And the clock is running fast((( should I change the quartz?

Mariah

The sensors swap places by turning the encoder. Pressing saves the positions. There is a correction in the menu for the clock.

Dana4701

There is some glitch with the offset)) we rotate down from 510 and it varies, sometimes reaching 450, sometimes 290, then back to 510, but it doesn't rotate up from zero((( connection 74595 pin 12 to D7, pin 11 to D4, pin 14 to D8? is that correct? because either I'm missing something or the 74595 isn't working.

Larry

I figured everything out, everything works as it should, except for the control of pumps P1 and P2, they switch completely inadequately. I set P1 to on 2 off 0 and get 4 seconds on, 1 second off. I set P1 to on 2 off 4 and get 8 seconds on, then 2 seconds off.

Todd8452

here is the latest version of the sketch that my MA is servicing

Jennifer9100

Thank you for the sketch, the splash screen is different here)) I uncommented the lines and everything started working, I noticed a grammatical error, Pamp instead of Pump, thank you so much for this work, for a mini tank from 30 to 150 liters the controller is more than sufficient, once again thank you very much, I will try today, with the author's permission, to put together a schematic and upload the archive with the libraries.

Martin3206

As promised, I sketched a diagram; I hope I didn't mess it up))) in gif and splan 7. The diagram looks a bit off in the picture, but it seems okay in splan)))

Noah1632

Thank you for the diagram, is the encoder working fine? Does it need pull-up resistors?

Patrick4439

I have enough internal pull-up without resistors.

Rodney3101

You are the first person who really helped. Thanks. I added a little bit of my own.

Ronald5720

Not everything works without resistors, I messed up))) I bypassed the encoder with 0.1 capacitors just in case))) now to flash it, I have to desolder the encoder))))

Joshua9340

I don't have module 5110, but just a 3310 display through resistive dividers, so I didn't take this moment into account.

Melissa2062

From the wishlist))) is it possible to connect another cooler to the free pin d13 for the LED Sampa and, of course, a third DS18B20? Is there enough space for the code in the version with pumps? Then it would be a bomb, not just a controller, fully loaded for a small aquarium.

Charles

No problem. We connect the third sensor in parallel. We connect the cooler to D13 through a MOSFET. Clearly, we need to adjust the sketch a bit; there will be enough space for that. I also have a cooler on my Sampe, but it doesn't regulate; it runs continuously at low speeds, plus there's a cooler in the cabinet and a cooler on the power supply of the controller and lights.

Larry

For the second time, I'm stepping on the same rake; the imported thyristors don't work, but our KU208s do (soldering station from Mikhail-Pskov). The same rake is constantly open with the thyristors; what's the secret? Everything works at 5 volts, the 74595 switches as it should. The only issue is the voltage drop after the resistor on the LED of the optocoupler, which is 1.2 volts. Is that how it should be? Or am I tangled up in three wires? I spent two days on a new case, made from black acrylic; the light works like a charm and is already set up on the aquarium.

Andrew4194

the main thing is not to confuse the conclusions check my stamp. I am attaching the diagram - tested 100 times in hardware

Chelsea

Can you control the auto-fill foot with a bipolar? Is the foot pulled to +? I want to try it on carbon electrodes.

Charles

Clarify the question. The level sensor line is pulled up. The output of the shift register is not pulled up. Unfortunately, I do not have carbon electrodes - measure their resistance and the resistance of the two electrodes immersed in MA.

Michelle

Carbon electrodes can be made from the tips of a feeder or a fishing rod. Simple and inexpensive.

Justin

Well, basically, let's say like this: just control it not with a relay but with a foot through a bipolar transistor. PS By the way, the moon channel has come in very handy))) I'm using it for the scuba, I've attached white, blue, and red LEDs (strip) through an N-Ch MOSFET, PWM regulates it normally and this channel.

Stephen5841

Unfortunately, I'm not a fisherman. I need to beg my dad for a piece of fishing rod, then maybe I'll give it a try.

Bridget

Don't go to the store and ask for the end of a rod, not blue, not orange-green, and look for yourself; they like to sell painted fiberglass disguised as carbon.

Debra6575

I had your Typhoon Reef controller, and besides the downsides, there was one big plus: the channel test mode for ice, which was used for show purposes.))) More precisely, it was possible to set a lot of white and little blue for photos without resetting the settings.))) Can this somehow be implemented in the menu? Even to the point of entering the settings directly into the sketch? So it wouldn't take long to adjust? And can the adjustment step be, say, 5? Otherwise, it takes too long to adjust every hour.)))

Emily3144

There are modes M1, M2, M3 specifically for this type to show all the power, for photos. If you want an increment of 5, no problem, just replace 1 with 5, but I will say it's not convenient in the lower range. In general, for the last 2 months, I haven't adjusted or changed anything except the feeding button.

Jennifer9100

Well, thank you, I would never have guessed what M1 and M2 are))))

Steven7574

I completed another stage of automating my aquarium. A line has been run from the osmosis system to the aquarium. Next, I installed an electric valve from the reverse osmosis system (even though its nominal voltage is 24V, it works perfectly with 12V). Then, I added a safety float valve (installed higher as a backup - just in case something happens with the electric system). The refill occurs from 6 AM to 7 PM, lasting no more than 10 minutes per hour (to protect against a stuck float level sensor). I reprogrammed the Arduino bootloader to enable the watchdog timer! Next up is the balling system.

Chad9037

Please recommend inexpensive and high-quality pumps (150L display) that would start reliably. (I have Chinese ones, and they only spin in the right direction 1 out of 3 times, plus they are noisy when turned on - the built-in protection against reverse rotation not only doesn't always work but also squeaks - like a ratchet). Low voltage or 220V is fine. A controller is not needed - I will use my own.

James4757

Could you tell me if you have an encoder with a built-in button? I ordered one without a button. If so, is it possible to temporarily connect a separate button for testing the sketch?

Frederick

Yes, my encoder has a button. It's no problem to install a separate button. Even in the encoder, these are separate independent outputs: 3 outputs for the encoder and 2 outputs for the button.

Jade

What kind of capacitors are those yellow ones on the drivers? Can they be replaced with others since I couldn't find the same ones?

Danielle9144

And there is also Rsen in the schematic, which is the setting resistor. What should I use for it? And one more question: will this driver be able to handle this assembly? Emit Type: channel 1: XPE RoyalBlue --- Cree Led - 5 pcs 15V 350-1000MA channel 2: XPE Red 3 pcs ---- Cree Led + Cyan -- Epileds Led 2 pcs 12V 350-600MA channel 3: XPE cool white 6500k ---- Cree Led 5 pcs 15V 350-1000MA channel 4: XPE blue --- Cree Led 3 pcs + 420nm Purple Led ---- Epileds 2 pcs 13-14V 350-600MA

Beth3383

These are tantalum capacitors. It is preferable to use tantalum ones, but they can be replaced with electrolytic capacitors with low ESR or polymer ones (like those used in motherboards). As a last resort, regular electrolytic capacitors can be used.

Scott8536

Rsen is the setting. I have already posted how to calculate it in the topic or you can check the datasheet. And one more question: will this driver handle this assembly? It will handle it. The driver works for me with a string of 10 LEDs at a supply voltage of 35V.

Darlene4238

So everything is fine for me for now! Thank you for the reply)))))))))))

Barbara

Please calculate which resistors to use in the driver for my assembly! I seem to be calculating something wrong. Channel 1: XPE Royal Blue --- Cree Led - 5 pcs 15V 350-1000MA Channel 2: XPE Red 3 pcs ---- Cree Led + Cyan -- Epileds Led 2 pcs 12V 350-600MA Channel 3: XPE cool white 6500k ---- Cree Led 5 pcs 15V 350-1000MA Channel 4: XPE blue --- Cree Led 3 pcs + 420nm Purple Led ---- Epileds 2 pcs 13-14V 350-600MA

Ross

The driver current does not depend on the type of diodes and their quantity. The resistance of the resistor is calculated as follows: R = 0.1/I For a driver with a current of 1 A: R = 0.1/1 = 0.1 Ohm For a driver with a current of 0.5 A: R = 0.1/0.5 = 0.2 Ohm And a recommendation for prolonged operation of the LEDs is not to run them at maximum current; use them at 80-90% of the maximum. For example, for XPE Royal Blue, instead of 1000 mA, use 800-900 mA.

Luis3725

So now I need to supply a separate voltage for each channel, or what?

Eric5208

no the driver's task is to provide the current you need There is no voltage in the formula

Alyssa1438

So if I install a 36-volt block, everything will be fine?

Christopher3770

Calculate it. Please find out for me according to the formula how much to allocate for each channel? I'm clueless)))

Alexandra

Let's not clutter the topic. Personal requests in private messages. As an exception. channel 1: XPE RoyalBlue --- Cree Led - 5 pcs 15V 350-1000MA R = 0.1 Ohm channel 2: XPE Red 3pcs ---- Cree Led + Cyan -- Epileds Led 2pcs 12V 350-600MA R = 0.2 Ohm channel 3: XPE cool white 6500k ---- Cree Led 5pcs 15V 350-1000MA R = 0.1 Ohm channel 4: XPE blue --- Cree Led 3pcs + 420nm Purple Led ---- Epileds 2pcs 13-14V 350-600MA R = 0.2 Ohm

David2398

Thank you very much.

Jennifer5784

Resistor values for the required current 0.50 Ohm = 200mA 0.33 Ohm = 333mA 0.22 Ohm = 455mA 0.20 Ohm = 500mA 0.15 Ohm = 680mA 0.14 Ohm = 715mA 0.10 Ohm = 1000mA If the required value is not available, buy and connect equal-value resistors in parallel 0.50 Ohm = 2 pcs 0.33 Ohm = 3 pcs 0.22 Ohm = 4 pcs 0.20 Ohm = 5 pcs 0.15 Ohm = 6 pcs 0.14 Ohm = 7 pcs 0.10 Ohm = 10 pcs

Hunter1471

I also decided to make an ice lamp, but with a cheaper circuit using the PT4115. The board is already ready but not soldered. I'll update once I test it.

Monique1236

PT4115 is an interesting microchip, but it has a maximum of 30V!!!

Yolanda

What makes it interesting? 30V works for me since I based it on my power supply at 27 volts, which is just enough to power 8 LEDs.

Christopher8654

PT4115 The PWM oscillates from 100 Hz to over 20 kHz. In my opinion, this is the main advantage, and the price is 16 compared to 27. Good job!

Chad

It needs a good heatsink; 3-4 diodes are fine, but then it heats up a lot.

Darlene4238

At what current? At what voltage? What LEDs? If it's not too much trouble, please tell me more details.

Joshua9847

1982, looked at the datasheet they promise high efficiency High efficiency (up to 97%) but it's strange that you can't exceed 1.5 W dissipation on the case. This raises doubts about the normal operation with the stated 7 LEDs!!! (pay attention)

Jason

Next week I will be soldering the board. Once I assemble it, I will update you on the results.

Javier5186

I connected 4 LEDs of 3W at a current of 700mA (marine aquarium), which is tolerable. However, they start to heat up and burn out. Therefore, I need to come up with a good heat sink, but it's difficult to do so at home with such miniature sizes.

Diana8604

I conducted tests on 6 diodes (the power supply for 8 diodes is still not working). - Current on the diodes is 0.7 A - Input voltage is 22 V - Output voltage of the driver is 20.8 V - Voltage on one diode is 3.4 V - Heating of the microcontroller is around 40 degrees - Current remains stable - Test duration is 30 minutes. The heatsink became very hot, so I had to attach a cooler at the 7th minute of the tests.

Wendy2244

Hello. Could you please tell me how the output voltage is regulated on the RT4115 driver? (Is it the input voltage minus the voltage drop across the driver?) Is the voltage drop across the driver constant or a certain percentage of the input/output? Thank you.

Kimberly4253

The LED driver is characterized not by voltage, but by current. The voltage will vary, while the current will be kept stable.

Hunter1471

Yes, I understand that the driver is needed specifically for current stabilization. I'm interested in the voltage in terms of the possible number of diodes connected in series, as I have a 12V power supply and wanted to connect 3 diodes in series (3.4V x 3 = 10.2V + drop across the driver). Oh, and the output voltage (if it is greater than 10.2V) can be reduced with PWM, right? Or will PWM control the current? Then the drop across the driver should not be more than 1.8V (otherwise, the diodes won't operate at 100% power).

Debra

PWM does not control current or voltage; it simply turns the LED on and off (doing this very quickly, and it seems to us that the brightness changes).

Sherri1320

Thank you for the tip on the pt4115, I hadn't come across it before. It's perfect for small budget fixtures. Otherwise, I had to deal with the ms 34063. The only question is whether the inductance can be higher than what's specified in the datasheet (which is a maximum of 100)? Iout=300mA and I have a 470uH inductor. For the input, I'm planning to use an electrolytic + tantalum + ceramic x7r, will this combination work? P.S. Inductance can also be 900 uH, and a capacitor is also needed on the output to reduce ripple. I came across a statement that the current ripple is around ±15%.

Stacey4437

Guys, can you tell me how to clear the EEPROM manually? It's taking too long! All the values are at maximum.

Karen1649

Oh, I figured it out, remembered the old mistakes)))) from the first version of this device)))

Joshua448

Guys, can you tell me what the temperature values in the Aqua T and Aqua dT settings mean?

Jennifer5784

Aqua T - water temperature Aqua dT - temperature control accuracy

Sandra7004

I understand that the 220 loads (skimmer pump, sump pump) are not yet working in the firmware, or did I mess something up?

Bonnie

The entire functionality has been controlling my sea for over six months now. The truth is, I haven't found the time to launch the baling. The pumps are there, the firmware is written, just need to connect it. Once I finish, I'll update the firmware. However, I removed the wave generator from it.

Charles894

So here is a more functional firmware, or do you have something better?))) I just can't find the load management in the menu!

Danielle9144

This controller is designed for marine use, meaning that the pumps and sump are only turned off during feeding time and are on at all other times. It also supports normal skimmer startup, meaning we first turn on the return pump to level the water, then start the skimmer and flow pumps. There is no load management by hours and calendar. It features smooth control of 6 channels of LED lights, automatic water top-off, heater, chiller, water cooling, return pump, skimmer, and flow pumps, along with 3 peristaltic pumps for dosing balling.

Deborah2682

I understand everything now)) I'm aware that you have 2 marine aquariums for the sea))

Lauren

But it can also be used in freshwater. Personally, I am interested in 6 channels of ice light, ice and water cooling, and auto refill; I think the rest can be extracted from the code.

John1464

the source is open so any ideas are feasible

Gabriel

Hooray, I finished it))) I put it on the mini.

Julie

Please share your impressions specifically about this matrix. I was interested in it at one time, but I never decided to go for it; it's definitely too much for a mini.

Javier5186

I will only be able to do it tomorrow afternoon, as the photo was taken with a terrible camera and the lighting was not set up properly. It was on full brightness. However, the first impressions are very good; the main thing is that the creatures perceive it and grow. So I will provide a report at least for three days.

Karen

Please let me know if anyone has encountered this error: avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00. It crashes when I try to upload the firmware. I think I connected everything correctly, selected the right port, and chose the correct board, but the error still occurs.

Brandy

make sure that the AVRISP mkII programmer is selected

Tammy2040

He is the one chosen.

John3142

there can be many reasons. as an option

Hunter1471

It seems like I did everything correctly. I tried it on both computers, and the result is the same. Unless the issue is with the drivers for the PL2303 programmer, I'm trying to install various drivers, but so far without success.

Justin

Swap RX and TX.

Jennifer5784

Connected crosswise

Holly

Good afternoon, could you please tell me what this means on the diagram (highlighting Blue board, Red board Ground)?:

Chad4168

As colleagues found out, there are two types of screens. They differ in backlighting. More precisely, the control - some are plus, others are minus. That's the whole difference.

Breanna9982

Okay, thank you!

Mary

Could you please tell me if the clock can be adjusted not by seconds, but by tenths of a second?

Laura4892

I think it's more beneficial to buy the DS3231 clock instead of the DS1307, rather than constantly making adjustments))) and the price difference is minimal right now.

Karen

It is what it is. They even say that the library for 1307 works for 3231. But I assembled an aquacontroller for freshwater using 1307. And the question remains. Also, when the power goes out and then comes back, the Arduino does not activate the channels that were on. For me, these are L2, CO2, LED, but L1 turns on. Can this be fixed?

Lori4746

If we are talking about the fresh controller, let's discuss it in its thread. This thread is for a completely different design.

John3142

Forgive me generously. I went there.

Robert

Good day. Thank you for the controller. I assembled it, and everything works. However, I have a question about the temperature sensors. I am using sealed DS18B20 sensors, and they are off by 0.6 degrees. Is it possible to adjust them?

Rebecca1419

How did they check that it was off by 0.6? What if they are actually telling the truth? Let's not forget that their sensor is bulkier and they are slower to respond to temperature changes. But if you really want to make a correction, I would try to find the last line in the function float getTemp(byte * temp_addr) that says return ((float) raw / 16.0); and add or subtract the necessary correction value to the result. But the author would be better at advising on this. Out of pure curiosity, is such precision really needed in a marine aquarium? (I'm not being ironic, I'm genuinely curious. I have a freshwater aquarium and I definitely don't worry about tenths of a degree there.)

Carrie1606

1982 please clarify did you connect a resistor between SCLK -10k- DN -10k- D/C -10k- RST is that right? if it works that way, then leave it as is. But for the others, I recommend pulling each pin of the screen up to +5V through a resistor of 1k-4.7k.

Jeremy

Yes, that's absolutely right.

Michael

Can I get a photo of the case? And if you could also provide one with it open, that would be great (if you don't mind opening it).

Jennifer9100

I don't know about others, but personally, I would like some instructions on how to redo the block; I think many would find it useful.

Mary

The truth is that the "devil" will break your head there.