null - Discuss

Gene1948

Leah

Regarding the price for Arduino, the clear miscalculation is that it needs to be multiplied by at least 2.

Danielle

I indicated the current prices with free shipping. I will start ordering today or tomorrow.

Megan

People really need your help. Please don't hesitate to give advice.

Tonya

The prices are really sketchy, and you also need a TFT LCD shield; it won't work without it... There are many options for drivers... I regret ordering the diodes from China; they are unreliable (the Chinese), they don't care what they sell, and the descriptions often don't match... P.S. And it's not clear what kind of aquarium light???

Holly

I often order from China. Defective items arrive very rarely. It might depend on the reputation. Aquarium with a rear sump, display about 45 liters.

James3382

Well, if we're talking about a marine aquarium, then 7-8 channels are needed; four channels on such a platform is an unacceptable luxury... P.S. I will be watching how the project develops!

Gabrielle5053

Why so many... I think 4-5 is just right. The price of the controller isn't that high, and who knows, maybe there will be a move to a larger volume later on... So it will be a backup. I also read in some thread that certain LEDs require specific driver definitions. Can you tell me what drivers are needed for them?

Jeffery

To understand why there is so much, I think it's necessary to first read the MA thread. A properly selected spectrum is the key to success! You can look in this direction regarding drivers. It's not the best solution, but it will do for a start... Regarding the words in the topic title (based on Arduino from scratch), think carefully. If you are not a programmer, abandon this idea; you will save a lot of money and nerves... Trust me, I have written enough programs on Arduino, both for myself and for clients...

Anthony4281

As I understand, this is a 6-channel driver. The price is reasonable. It's even easier than buying separately. I will come up with something for the programming part, but if not, I would appreciate your help. I saw that they install an RN sensor, but I haven't seen it for sale. I understand that you are knowledgeable about this and work in this area. If it's not too much trouble, could you draw a small diagram/table showing how and which components connect with each other? Only if it's not too much trouble for you.

Jacob7201

Arduino TFT LCD Screen. Clock. Temperature sensor. pH meter is expensive, but still. Arduino 6 channel LED shield 0.35-0.7-1A Haven't found it yet.

Aaron6112

Leave it... Bad idea... The components are clearly not right... The website is still under development, and it has almost no information, but it's needed for the start. Later, more detailed information about the assembly will appear on it.

Karen2578

This is what I call a level... If you finish the website, you will make an invaluable contribution to home aquaristics. It deserves respect. What to leave. What a bad idea. I'm interested and I'm stubborn. The components seem to be chosen correctly, but the LCD is not the right one. I will order the driver on eBay; the delivery is the same from China as everything else, but I just couldn't find it on Ali.

David2398

Yes, it's not on AliExpress, but on eBay. The shipping is $3 or $4. There are options for 1, 4, and 6 channels. As for leaving it as is, it's a bad idea, but I'm not forbidding you; it's your right. It's just that you have such a wide scope... Starting from scratch with so many wishes, my first controller still works without temperature sensors, fans, and floats... First, buy everything, assemble it, and then we'll see.

Monica

I will hope for your help and the quick development of your website. I think I will order the sensors right away so I don't have to wait a month later. I want one for water to regulate the water temperature and one in the lid to regulate the temperature of the assembly. This way, if necessary, we can turn on the coolers for cooling. The pH is still a priority, it's a bit expensive. I think it can always be improved. As I understand, I need a set like the one on your website, and I would also like a couple of sensors and Bluetooth.

Christopher4125

I also wanted to ask for a simple assembly for the nano Arduino for a shrimp tank. So that I can put everything in one package right away. Sorry for asking so much at once, I just don't have time at work to search the entire internet.

Kevin3579

I have only placed an order: 1. Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 (13.8$) 2 pcs 2. 3.2" TFT LCD Module Display (12.5$) 3. TFT 3.2'' Mega Touch LCD Shield (7.6$) 4. DS1307 I2C Real Time Clock (2.3$) 2 pcs 5. LCD Keypad Shield Duemilanove UNO MEGA2560 MEGA1280 (5.6$) 6. Arduino 6 channel PWM high power LED shield 0.35-0.7-1A (21$+4$) 7. Waterproof temperature sensor DS18b20 (2.7$) 8. Cree Royal blue XT-E 5W 450-452nm 10 pcs (18$)

Todd

Something is off... Can I have the link? Actually, I need "Arduino MEGA 2560 R3", these are different things.

Joshua

What is really not right..?

Sheila

Definitely... Well, let it be, maybe you'll come up with something else, it's also a good platform, but not for TFT... By the way, you can cancel the purchase on Ali... link

Ricky9405

She did everything in one order. She's also tense on the phone. This one will do.

Rodney

And what can be done based on those? I wrote to them, but I think with my knowledge of English they won't understand me...))

Adrienne

It will work... They will understand, but they will freeze them out... A Chinese person is a Chinese person, no matter where they are!

Anthony

I would like to be curious about the choice of the Arduino platform, considering that today there are more powerful platforms available, with a lot of interfaces on board for quite reasonable prices: link, link.

Jeffery7866

Well, how else, everything is as usual, first I tried to ask, but as always, everyone is silent as fish. I decided to make my choice based on what I encountered more often on the internet. Well, if anything, there are still 2 days to cancel the order.

Kimberly3727

As an option: 1.) tick 2.) tick

Cassandra1840

It's a bit too thick for highlighting. And it's not cheap either. I don't understand everything here, and there I would probably get completely lost. Is there anything in Russian? It's tough with English.

Wanda666

You can use Google Translate, it's quite readable. And it's not about highlighting, but about full system monitoring. As for the cost, it's a debatable issue, since all management is done through a web interface, which eliminates the need for screens, plus access to the controller from any computer with Internet.

Steven757

I'm using my phone. It's just that at work I can't freely browse the internet. You can install Bluetooth or Wi-Fi on Arduino and control it from your phone and PC. Understand me correctly, I'm a complete novice in this and I've been filling my head with what and how to do for a week, and now it seems I've figured out what to do and I've ordered it. But now I have doubts. It’s always like this. As soon as I decide something, do it, order it, people start telling me: that it's not right, not like that, it would be better this way... I'm already going to glue the third aquarium and I'm still not sure if I've calculated everything correctly. And in the end, I still haven't launched it.

Adam4310

Have you seen the price of the shield? The price has already exceeded the cost of the same Raspberry.

Joshua

Well, Wi-Fi is one thing, but you can manage with Bluetooth. And the screen is for convenience, something that stands out.

Tonya

I understand that you already have an aquarium system running on Raspberry Pi? If so, many would like to see it! If not, then why write about it here? In the topic title, the person clearly stated what they want to do! Let them first try to navigate the complexities of Arduino, and then decide whether to switch to a more complex platform. P.S. And if you decided to help, please provide a proper link where it's explained in an accessible language, not just a link to the official website...

Steven7574

To begin with, the link is perfectly normal, to the official website, as well as to two relevant projects. If my links didn't work, then your link is definitely useless; the only valuable thing there is the link to Stilo. With that, I take my leave, enjoy your work.

James4757

Dear. Before pointing fingers at the links, read what it's about! The person is a complete "zero"!!! And when he created the topic, he didn't even understand what to do and how!!! Considering your activity in similar topics, I hope you have at least one automated aquarium....

Elizabeth

So again, it's not relevant... Well, I've already ordered it, so I've ordered it. Let's try to do it. We'll see how it goes. At first, I actually set up the light with three lamps, and it's just sitting there unused. I hope to use it for a while while I'm making the ice.

Chelsea

Don't hesitate, what about you?

Brandon9634

I definitely don't have that...

Brandy1134

Everything will be fine, don't be sad. In fact, there are quite a few projects on Arduino, like Stilo (the link has already been provided), Jarduino, and developments by forum members. Start by reading about them; maybe it's not worth creating something of your own, as it's not that simple, while replicating a liked version is.

Whitney

I'll take a look, study it. Thank you. Who can help with the aquarium?

April3499

I have two based on Stilo... They work great, although only the moon and channel settings are left from Stilo... Jarduino is complete garbage... I won't say anything about the forum; from what I downloaded there, I quickly looked through the archives, and it will be very difficult for a beginner to understand. I downloaded it a long time ago, but I haven't gotten around to it; I will definitely try!

Richard2180

As far as I understand, his legs also grow from Stilo...

Andrea6761

Please advise on the power supply for the lamp, I completely forgot. I have a couple of blocks: 12V 5A, 12V 2A, 24V I don't remember the amperage from the scanner and photo printer, in short, a bunch from 3.7-9V from 0.5-2A. What can be used or what is better to buy?

Todd

Look, the drivers are 6-30V, so 24 volts will work, the fans are 12V, Arduino is 7V, sensors are 5V... So you take a 24V power supply to power the drivers, get 12V from it through a DC-DC converter, and get 7.5V for powering the Arduino through a second DC-DC converter, and from 7.5V you get 5V through a voltage regulator... Well, that's the entire power scheme...

Joshua

Can you provide links as examples... otherwise, it will turn out for me

Selena4467

Or just go to the radio market and say there is 24V, from which you need 12, 7.5, 5.

John3432

For example, I have 24V 4A, on ARDUINO, 3 coolers, 35 LEDs... To start, ordering 24V 10A is more than enough.

Cheryl9296

What should the amperage be on the 24V block?

Kellie

Absolutely. 24x10 will be done. Or we can still do 24x5 since more than 1500 has already been spent on lighting.

Jeanne

Good light is EXPENSIVE!!! You can use 5A, but more is better. And don't forget the DC-DC.

Ryan1989

It's just ridiculous. I've already spent a ton of money, around 4500, and in the end, I haven't even held a single Karel in my hands...

Sheila

So far, only the sensor has arrived... We are waiting for everything else...

Danielle8118

I used an Arduino Nano Atmega368 because there was no space in the case. As a result, I achieved auto-refill, sunrise-sunset, and radiator cooling.

Andrea6761

Is there a photo/topic that is interesting to see?

Jeffery7866

There are no photos or topics. I was working on something similar to this theme.

Jade

patience and persistence.... I'm doing the same... well, I seem to have figured out the assembly, I wrote the code myself. There's no functionality, but it does handle sunrise, sunset, and timed activation. The only thing I can't figure out is the temperature sensor... it keeps complaining about the Dallas Temperature library. If anyone knows how to get the DS1820 to work with the Mega, I would appreciate your help!

Mario

What is there to be friends about? This topic on DS18B20 has been discussed many times... You need to start here!!!

Kyle

I know how to use the internet. Thank you for reminding me how it's done. The problem is that even the examples from the Dallas library don't compile for me. I tried several different ones. Maybe someone has a verified library for Mega on Dallas? Please upload it to a file-sharing service. Thanks to the kind people. I received a working library. I'm withdrawing my question.

Steven757

Regarding the temperature sensor - it won't last long in seawater (nor in freshwater). It's better to get one that is sealed in plastic and does not contain metal parts (stainless steel rusts in seawater). For example, I got this one for myself. But since you've already bought it, you need to modify it - properly seal it, for instance, by putting it in a glass flask and filling it with silicone. I read a topic on the forum for a couple of days about aquacomps (according to Yusupov's scheme - here) and there are over 300 pages!!!! Somewhere in the middle of the topic, there was a discussion about these temperature sensors and their issues with getting wet and failing.

Danny

Sensor for 8 euros It should also be noted that the DS18B20 is not only used for measuring water temperature!!! For example, if it is placed on a lamp radiator, it can measure the temperature of the radiator and, with a relatively simple algorithm, prevent premature failure of the LEDs...

Corey3201

The topic is thriving. It can't help but make me happy. I'm still waiting... I glued the aquarium, then re-glued it... probably boring...))) now I will make a lid... I just need to buy a radiator first. Can anyone suggest where to look for a cheaper one in Kyiv, so I can see/touch it?

Monique1236

Ask BlackAlex, don't step on my rakes.

Kayla7655

Is this about the radiator?

Jacob4800

Sure. This is, of course, not exactly cheaper. There are companies there that produce W-radiators, from 140 to 230 meters, depending on the width and height of the profile. But they sell the products in multiples of 1 meter. Just yesterday, I was handling a profile from Blekalex with an aquarist from Dnipro - it looks amazing, and the grooves for the protective glass are great. In general, it's convenient.

Amanda

He has an excellent radiator for a pendant light. And mine will be in the lid, and the glass will be in the lid itself. I need something with a height of 20 mm, a length of approximately 300-350 mm, and a width of approximately 170-200 mm.

Joseph9057

Who knows, you need to make such a "leg" behind the back wall of the aquarium.. And it also has to be somehow removable, just in case. What if you decide to rearrange/add stones? It looks very beautiful on branded aquariums, but how to make it.. I think it's easier to just put a light on the side walls and be done with it..

Kimberly2102

I will do it on loops so that it leans back. I think it will work out..)))

Luis3725

In fact, there are no contraindications to cover the beam with plastic from the outside. By the way, U-shaped profiles are sold in pieces of less than a meter at hardware stores, but the price may not be pleasing. You can look for used radiators in the "pit" - the rows behind the market, above the railway. After all, you still plan to hide it in the casing. In general, there are many options.

John3165

The cover will be made of foamed PVC and beech. It will be further wrapped in carbon. I need a radiator 200×470×25; will it be enough for 21 diodes without active cooling? Regarding the power supply: AC-DC 24V 5-10A. DC-DC 24>12V DC-DC 24>7.5V From 7.5V through a KREN (what is that?) to 5V. Are there any other characteristics to consider for DC-DC besides voltage? Regarding the diodes, I think: (CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG) 2 RGBW 2 UV 5 RB 5 B 7 CW

Patricia1746

If it's not too much trouble, please write down what exactly I need to buy tomorrow at the market. If possible, indicate approximately where. I'm not too unfamiliar with the area. I will be there around 11:00-12:00, maybe someone nearby can help...)

Jade

Block 24V 5A bought 100 Radiator 500x192x26 2 pcs 200 It's unclear about DC-DC

Jason9385

DC-DC is a step-down voltage converter... There is the internet, there is Google, is it really that hard to find out what and how, or do you think someone will do it for you? Many people have other things to do besides aquariums and forums...

Dana6523

I understand... I just came to the card dealer and when they started dropping the price to DS-DS 24>12 180. 24>7.5 they said there were none available. That's why I asked.

Robert1845

On eBay, there are adjustable converters with an input of 4V-40V and an output that can range from 1.3V to 35V (the required output voltage is adjusted using a variable resistor on the module). You can search for the phrase "DC-DC LM2596 Step Down Adjustable Power Supply Module," where the price starts at 0.99 USD with free shipping (for example, this listing). I used such modules for my lamp (in the picture next to the power supply). One power supply at 24V and two of these DC-DC LM2596 modules adjusted to 5V (for Arduino) and 12V (for fans), while the "clean" 24V is used for the LED drivers.

Jennifer

I bought something basically the same... you can supply up to 50V and then you adjust the output as needed. And here are a couple of photos of this stage:

Jennifer7159

I bought the same temperature sensor today. They say on the internet that you also need to attach a 4.7 kΩ resistor to it. Download the second file, everything is clear there. And the pinout is explained as well.

John3335

I started making a light fixture. Is it okay to have 2 UV, 2 RGBW, 5 white, 5 royal blue, and 5 blue for 55 liters (57W)? Or should I add more?

Chad4168

I think I should arrange it like this. What do you think about it?

Zachary

Or better this way? __RB____B___RB_______B____RB_______B____RB____B W___UV___W___RGBW____W___RGBW____W___UV___W __B____RB___B________RB___B________RB____B___RB Channels: 1. RB (8) 2. B (8+2 (rgBw)) 3. W (5+2 (rgbW)) 4. Uv (2) 5. R (2 Rgbw) 6. G (2 rGbw) Or: __RB___B___RB_______B___RB_______B____RB___B W___UV__W___RGBW___W___RGBW____W___UV__W __RB___B___RB_______B___RB_______B____RB___B Or: __RB____B___RB_______B_______RB___B____RB W___UV___W___RGBW___RGBW___W___UV___W __RB____B___RB_______B_______RB___B____RB

Michael5242

Here is what I have achieved. So far, it has limited functionality - dawn, dusk, reaction to motion sensor.

Marie5735

Can I have a direct link? My phone doesn't recognize it. And why is there a motion sensor?

Nicole7122

I fixed it. The motion sensor is designed so that in the dark (when only the royal lighting is on), you can easily turn on the main light for a certain period with a simple wave of your hand. And it's just cool.

Johnny

Normal. How many liters do you have? And how many of each type of LED do you have?

Rita

screen about 150l, 2 Royal Blue 10W lights (morning and evening backlighting, the blue one in the video), 3x 1000Nm 10W (daylight turns on in tandem with evening and morning) but I will add 1-2 more units later.

Vincent

At first glance, you wouldn't say it's 150 liters. I thought it was a maximum of 70. Can you tell me how and where to arrange the LEDs? All 3W (10 RB, 10B, 10 CW, 10 UV, 2 RGBW).

Tammy2040

I think they need to be placed in groups of RZhB. BUT you will still have to redo it later. Add or subtract. This is determined experimentally.

Chad9037

So, all the components are there. And I'm a bit confused: I'm connecting power to the drivers, to the LED driver. But how do I connect the driver (ledseeduino 6ch) to the Arduino? As I understand it, I need to use pin 8 to pin 12 on the Arduino, but where do I connect on the ledseeduino?

Gabriel

Read here -

James

Here? As I understand, it should be connected like this: Should it be connected directly or through some resistance?

Wendy2244

And should the jumpers 0.7A and 1A be saved depending on the LED characteristics?

Jonathan6173

Initially, the question was "where to connect on ledseeduino?"... Without any resistors, it connects directly... Jumpers need to be soldered, depending on the required current... Therefore, one should not supply 1A to a diode rated for 350mA. PS. I would first focus on the software, as it will help preserve eyesight and the lifespan of the LEDs.

Russell8484

Sorry for another stupid question. Cree LEDs are rated for 2.85-3.4V, and I'm supplying them with 24V. Is that normal? Or is the correct voltage reaching them through the ledseeduino? P.S. Please don't forget about the topic title.

Thomas5021

The values you specify are not calculated; this is called "voltage drop across the LED." Therefore, you can connect 24/3.4=7 LEDs in one series, but it's better to connect 6, leaving a small margin for voltage.

Rodney3101

Thank you, now I understand. And as a follow-up, one more question: Where and how should I apply this?

Robert1845

The yellow wire goes to the digital port, the black wire to the port marked as gnd (ground), the red wire to the vcc port (+5 volts), and a 4.7kΩ resistor should be used as a pull-up between the yellow and red wires. I strongly recommend reading tutorials for the things you are trying to connect to the Arduino instead of wanting to just put everything together at once. For example, regarding your last question, you can check here. P.S. The great thing about Arduino is that if you have an idea to connect something to it, there is a 95% chance that someone has already done it before you and posted it online.

Nicole7268

Google rules... Maybe someone will write a program for you here too???

Matthew

I can't understand why my UV LEDs are burning out. I have 2 on the channel. Could it be the high voltage? EPILED UV/Ultra-Violet 10 pcs Technical Parameters: Quantity: 10 pcs Emitted Color: UV/Ultra-Violet Intensity Luminous: 6-10LM Viewing Angle: 120 Degree DC Forward Voltage (VF) C3.2V~ 3.6V DC Forward Current (IF): 700mA Wavelength: 395NM ~ 400NM

Bryan1851

What does voltage have to do with it? You were explained what voltage is... The reason is most likely the mismatch of the parameter "DC Forward Current (IF): 700mA." And then you were warned, China is China... P.S. It would also be good to indicate the nature of the burning, that is, "burn out immediately," "burn out after a certain time," "burn out under certain conditions," etc...

Laura4892

burned out gradually at 0.35A.

Amy9618

0.35A? What was the power source? Draw a diagram so we can discuss it in detail.

Jessica9188

The block from the photo printer 24V/3.3A outputs 24V/0.35A through the driver; I did not set jumpers for 0.75A and 1A. Also, when I connect it with the Mega, the LEDs blink for a couple of seconds and then stay on, with flickering present. But if I connect it without the Mega, all LEDs turn on at once and there is no flickering. I tried to upload any sketch to check if it works, but with no results.

Erica752

~1500, the ready-made lamp does not fit in size (specifics of the lid) I had no idea about M.A. (marine aquarium), but that doesn't stop me and many others on this forum.

Mario

And the sandwich: Arduino UNO 2560 R3 Arduino 3.2" TFT LCD Module Display TFT 3.2'' Mega Touch LCD Shield 2.2v

Whitney

Guys, help me, I can't get the touch to work. I'm going through the calibration, transferring data to the library, and in the end, I only see the main screen and can't do anything.

Samuel6138

I gathered everything, but not as I would have liked. For some reason, only 2 out of 6 channels are working. Could the drivers on the LEDSEEDUINO have burned out? The clock is specifically running slow (by an hour). What could be the problem?

Mark

Check the driver contacts. Recently, due to inattention while soldering the board, I made a mistake and shorted the outputs from the LED. The result - 4 LEDs, 2 drivers, and 4 ports on the Arduino burned out. That's how it is.

Courtney

The clocks also get off when shorted to the ground. Reflash them.

Charles4157

It seems I checked everything. Maybe I'm not assembling it correctly? The diagram is above. The last sketch is from Oleg. I struggled with it all day yesterday. Should I wash the clock separately? How?

Theresa5149

Honestly, I have no idea about this... And I didn't understand anything.

Jeremy

There are people from Kyiv who can help with this mess and figure things out. Of course, not for free. I've already wasted months on this and got nowhere.

Tami

How are things going?

Julie

Something burned out, it stopped working... I got tired of it and connected it directly...

Thomas1044

watch the video on YouTube about microcontroller programming from Amperka, for example. The lessons are discussed in a very accessible way.

Aaron6112

Well, that's later, I'm moving to a bigger aquarium and will start with a clean slate. I want to make it simpler, or maybe not... without a display... but with control from a phone or tablet. If anyone can help, I would be happy...))))

Dawn6148

And who will write the software for Android? It's not easier; it's specifically more difficult...

Katie3017

100% Better, then you might as well try to finish it with the display.

Brent7831

Alternatively, as the simplest option, if only light is needed, it can be done without a display, with control via a USB cable. As long as everything is fine - it works and works, if you notice that the time starts to drift significantly - you can adjust it through the computer and that's it.

Debra6575

If you only need light, you can just install a switch (on/off). But what if the computer is in another room?

Alec9378

Yes, that's true, but you can't control sunrises/sunsets with a button. And if the computer is far away, you can bring a lamp to it. Moreover, you won't need to adjust the time that often.

Craig7302

Where's the logic? If there's no display, how can you keep track of the time?

Patrick4439

It doesn't need to be controlled. Set it once - the light works. Night-dawn-day-sunset. You will need to adjust the time if the clocks get out of sync or start to run too fast/slow. For example, if dawn starts at one in the morning. But this will need to be done quite rarely.

Jill9137

Good afternoon, I don't know if I'm writing too late or not, but I found a pretty good program for the Aquacontroller that roughly matches your set of components.

Angel2396

Actually, that option would work for me. I basically just need the light. The temperature in the fridge can be controlled...))) It's never too late... it's not just me who needs it... so share...

Caleb6320

What to share? The program code is in the source files, but for the shield you purchased, I had to change some variables. After that, the sandwich of Arduino, shield, and display started working. If you're interested, I can send it.

Susan9583

In general, we have: A modified schematic to run through the shield: And the code with my corrections (in comments in the code): Stilo_3_0_my.rar After launching, we have this: That's all I managed to do last night. The entire modification is necessary due to the use of the shield for the display. Maybe I'll continue today. I want to order LEDs, but I still can't calculate. Can someone help?

Bethany

Maybe I'll continue today. I want to order LEDs, but I still can't calculate. Can someone help? Calculate what exactly? For example, my scheme for a 200+50L aquarium.

Nicole263

I have a 55x55x55 cm (approximately 150 liters) aquarium. Please calculate the necessary lighting (by colors) for this aquarium. That's basically it. The aquarium has marine life and soft corals.

Ricky9405

It is practically impossible to calculate for LEDs. Everything is selected experimentally. When turning them on, you will need to add or remove lights. A lot depends on the distance of the light to the surface, as well as the depth of the aquarium. I would start with 3 warm whites, 5 blues, and 8 royals (assuming there will be sunrise and sunset), but that's just my opinion. I'm a beginner in marine aquariums.

Ashley5975

And this is based on what power of the LEDs?

Richard2180

3W

Melinda

What do you think is the best combination of LEDs with smooth adjustment? I suggest we come up with something like a formula or calculate an LED assembly that would be ideal for, say, a 50-liter aquarium, and then based on that: if you need lighting for a 100-liter tank, you would need 2 assemblies, for 250 liters 5-6 assemblies, etc. In the end, we could even collectively order bases for the assembly with the possibility of connecting them together, for example, through a harness.

James3382

The calculation of 3 watts seems to be a very rough estimate. And is the White Cold really unnecessary, along with UV? And which ones will be on at night?

Christopher3770

Spectrum designer. If only someone would clarify the requirements for illumination to "design" in it. By the way, here’s an interesting website about lighting, although it’s about lamps, but there are spectra that can be used to assemble lighting with LEDs. Still, one head is good, but a collective is better.

Katherine

Am I the only one who thinks that the LEDs in the center between the two radiators are left without adequate cooling?

Crystal

I wrote based on what needs to be started, and then the imagination takes over. I have a 3W cool white, a 3W warm white, 9*3W royal, 3*3W 365nm UV, 2*3W cyan, and 2*3W blue at the sea, for an area of 700*650 and a depth of 600. Visually, there is not enough light, but if I add more, unwanted algae start to grow.

Hannah

I think the problem lies elsewhere; I have a driver from Ledsii, only for 4 channels. The shield operates on external 12V, and if you disconnect the power from the Arduino, the shield still continues to work, with the LEDs shining at about half brightness.

Joseph8842

It’s probably too late to respond, but the switch should have been thrown away. On the Arduino, you need to change the regulator; it’s hard to kill it, even if it’s partially dead. In all the time, I’ve completely killed one, but there was a current of 4A and 24V on the digital pins, even the traces on the board burned out. The fact that the test diode lights up is not an indicator; you need to measure the current at the output.