• Ice, Metalhalogen, or t-5, t-8

  • Aaron6112

Enough time has passed since the introduction of LED lighting, and I suggest sharing observations regarding the health and growth of corals. I have 4 channels with 90 LEDs: white, blue, royal, and UV. Among the corals are zoanthids, palythoas, anemones, labophytum, briarium, sarcophyton, sinularia, several types of hard corals, and long-polyped corals, and they all seem to be doing well and growing. Both soft and hard corals appear to have reached a complete harmony in coexisting in the same aquarium. But what about LPS? I would like to discuss Duncan, Goniopora, and Clavularia; they seem to be doing okay, but the second Euphyllia is bending, while the first one in the sump has several heads with strands hanging down, and the second one in the aquarium is open only 40%. There is an opinion to supplement lighting with metal halides; it seems that some enthusiasts from Kharkiv have returned to using halide lamps. I suggest sharing opinions and observations from aquarists who have used lamps and switched to LED lighting.

Judy

I switched from T5 to LED. Only positive results, by the way, euphyllias grow the best, I have five of them in different colors. One euphyllia came to me with a cracked skeleton head and survived.

Kimberly

I only have LED light. The fixture consists of royal blues, blues, 6500K, UV, and red 660-670. The peak is from 1 PM to 5 PM. UV and red only work during the peak. Euphyllia are just thriving. The green Caluostrea has doubled in size in two months, and the briarium has grown from 3x3 cm to 10x5 cm. The pulsating Xenia resembles a weed, taking over new territories. There have been some losses; I'm not sure if it's the light or something about the aquarium parameters that the purchased Catalaphyllia from Agnieszka didn't like, but it literally disappeared within a week. The anemone lasted a month and then vanished without a trace. The parameters are normal, except for nitrates, with salifert readings close to 50 units.

Matthew7977

The topic is interesting! Recently, I've also been told that LED is not very good, and we should only use MH, while LED is just for aesthetics! So I've been thinking about whether or not to switch from LED! I mainly have umbrellas and fish.

Melissa1838

I think I should supplement the lighting for a couple of hours at peak time. I have about 90 LEDs, not exactly sure, around a third are white, blue, and royal blue, and about 10 are UV. The whites were set to 95%, with the blues and royals at peak, and the UV at about 80%. At first, everything was thriving, but gradually it started to shrink. The bubble has increased about five times, so everything is fine with the actinics; I have four of them. I set the blue and royal blue LEDs to 85% and the white to 65% from 12:00 to 17:00, and the UV to 15% from 10:00 to 19:00. I bought one metal halide lamp, but I need two since the aquarium is 150 cm.

Andrew419

Let's develop the topic! It's very interesting! Should we invest money again in a new light or not? Will everything be fine on the ice?

Brooke3987

What’s wrong with your ice? Can you tell me?

Javier5186

Light is one of the parameters of the system. Good light, whether it's MH, T5, or LED, costs money and not a small amount. We started a 58-liter tank with standard Chinese lighting, and everything grew without any complaints. After installing LED, the aquarium took a long time to recover. (Softness). We started a 450-liter tank with used T5, and it thrived for 2 years. After replacing it with LED, it transformed and is developing well. (Mixed riff). We started a 400-liter tank with even more used T5, and it lived for 0.5 years quite decently. After replacing it with LED, it became more beautiful and lush. (Softness).

Jeffery7866

By the way, we only have white, blue, and royal on the two big ones (Dima Spamcheg's lights). Just a couple of days ago, I added a couple of UV 390 nm.

Jade

I have now significantly reduced the power of the UV channel (to 25% at peak)... there are 6 UV diodes installed for 120 liters... previously, the peak was around 50%, which sometimes caused discomfort mainly for LPS. I understand that the shortest wavelength diodes cause "overexposure" in corals (including royal ones), so one needs to be extremely careful with them.

Joshua9847

I plan to have 6 units of 450 liters and 4 units of 400 liters.

Keith7534

Only umbrellas grow smarter, it seems they grow, I am satisfied with my 70L homemade jar, here is the topic of how I made it. I am just thinking about larger volumes, like from 300L. I planned to use LEDs for lighting as well, but with more channels for orange, red, cyan, etc. However, I started talking to people and they sowed some doubt in me, saying that it's not very good to use LEDs and that it's better to use metal halide lights, and that LEDs are just for visual lighting. Now I am sitting here wondering what to use.

Collin

This is the answer I expected, you write that everything is fine under the ice... it's satisfactory... but there are doubts... I don't understand the doubts, others have it but you don't, that's the reason for the doubts. Why add something, change it without understanding and not knowing the final result? No one has yet written that it helped restore, save, or accelerate the growth of corals, which a properly adjusted ice light could not handle.

Alicia5489

Okay, thank you for the response.

Troy8808

how many watts per liter for the diodes in the aquarium?

Joshua8425

Doctorfish2 told me that there are no good aquariums under ice, and he has visited more than one coral farming facility, and I believe him. Although no one will admit to you that, for example, in Israel, frags are grown at a salinity of 1.030, and with two cycles per day, meaning two sunsets and sunrises in one day. And on the grids, a small current is supplied. There are many other nuances that no one is ready to share with you. I think that a combination of T5 or metal halide light with ice is the best option.

Christine

I wanted to tell you that humanity, since its appearance, has lived on Earth for 15 seconds compared to the beginning of the Earth's formation. Approximately the same goes for ice lighting. All over the world, on coral farming, T5, no matter what.

Nancy

approximately 1.2 W per liter. The lamp operates at 80%. UV and red 660-670 with 7 pieces each, operating at 100% at peak.

Ricardo7341

Why so much???

Rodney7316

0.28 watts per liter. No colored ones, no UV, Ratio of 1 piece WBR - 1 piece Blue, a total of 10 pieces of 3 crystal and 10 blue at a current of 0.7A, working at 100%. All feel good.

Destiny

Yes, a lot, I agree. I can see it on the windows, they get covered in brown dust, I have to clean them twice a week. I'll make some adjustments, that's why we're communicating.

Chris

We have about 200+/- watts for 450 liters.

Jessica6754

How do you measure power? What do you equate it to?

Katie5500

I meant the rated power of the LEDs.

Darrell7542

Two questions: 1. Is 200 W at 450 the total power (green, red, blue, dark blue, UV, white) or just for the main ones (blue, dark blue, white)? 2. I plan to use about 160 W for 380 liters with only blue, dark blue, white, and UV lights, without green and red. Will that be enough? The aquarium is mainly for soft corals.

Chad

We only have the following colors in our fixtures: - blue, - royal, - white. I just finished a couple of UV 390 nm.

Diana3118

Hmm... Well, what's the point of someone having such a set of diodes? Show photos of aquariums or links to them so that we can evaluate.

Larry

Пожалуйста, предоставьте текст для перевода.

Bryan1851

Пожалуйста, предоставьте текст для перевода.

Javier5186

I'll jump into this topic as well. Here's a photo of the aquarium with Chinese LEDs: blue, light blue, white, and I also threw in a couple of orange and green ones that were lying around, just to get rid of them. The lamp is homemade, made from available materials, and unfinished (as you can see in the photo). The blue and light blue are at a maximum of 70%, and the white is at 25%. They've been shining for a year. The condition of the aquarium is not perfect, but there are three factors: a child (who always throws something in there), it's time to change the osmosis system (the membrane and filters), and inexpensive salt. The corals are doing well and are naturally growing.