-
Lee
Kayla7655
1. They are not installed. There are two reasons - strong heating of the water and salt deposits on the lamps.
2. ATI brand LED lights.
3. Pipe diameters are calculated based on the performance of the feed pump. In practice, 0.5" for the rise and 1"-3/4" for the drain.
4. I won't say.
5a. Of course, it needs to dissipate heat somewhere.
5b. It won't become a refrigerator, so the sump is the full width of the cabinet. The skimmer, calcium reactor, and heater are placed directly in the first compartment.
Christopher4125
A ready-made recipe is a ready-made aquarium. It is easier to consult with a specialist who will select all the equipment for you. However, if you go through a forum, you will still have to process all the information and make decisions. Instead of a refrigerator, it's better to install an air conditioner - it's cheaper and more practical.
Stephanie4990
Placing a refrigerator in a cabinet under an aquarium is a bad idea. Unfortunately, the efficiency of a refrigerator is not 100 percent, so it will produce more heat than cold. All the heat will rise and warm the aquarium. In a closed system (without forced heat removal from the refrigerator), it will function as a heater. Alternatively, you would need to install an exhaust fan in the cabinet that vents to another room or outside. It’s better to install a split system in the room – it will be better for both you and the aquarium.
Kathy
Personally, I really like the Yasha Aquamedic. If a copy is made, it will be both beautiful and well thought out. There are LED lamps for this available from Marchenkov, so I think that based on this principle, the aquarium does not need a chiller. It seems that half-meter T-5 or T8 are not readily available in the country, and Aty does not produce them. Therefore, the choice will come down to compacts or LEDs. And it is indeed possible to make a lid; they are not only available for Chinese brands like Resan or Boyu but also for Red Sea, and beautiful aquariums are created by people in these vessels. Check out the Yoda thread about the 400 Resan. A similar concept.
Samuel6138
The thing is that everything ready is not quite right... I've already mentioned this. The system is quite small - a 125-liter aquarium plus a sump of 40-50 liters. Accordingly, the power is not high. There is an air conditioner, but because of the child, you can't always turn it on, and the temperature easily jumps above 30 in the summer. If I don't figure out how to fit in a chiller, I'll have to give up on the sea for now. I like Yasha too - I've looked at it myself, but you can't leave it for a week - everything will die.
Brian6895
I have an aquarium measuring 500*500*500. There are 32mm holes in the side wall. For lighting, I use a 150W MH and 2 T5*24 (Sylvania). The circulation pump is a San San with a capacity of 3000L/h. The lift pump is an Atman with a capacity of 1900L/h (I tried a 2500L/h model, but didn't like it). The protein skimmer is an Atman SK-388, AF-2300, modified by NOX, with a pump rated at 3500L/h (for the future). The sump measures 500*300*400 and is divided into 3 compartments: skimmer, algae section, and return. To be honest, I can't even imagine how to fit a chiller, top-off, and calcium reactor in there... Also, when the power goes out and comes back on, sometimes the circulation pump doesn't start, and I have to manually spin the propeller, and the skimmer also behaves poorly after that. I definitely can't leave it unattended for a week.
John5528
The main question is about selecting equipment that can be left for a week. If the sample is not 300 but 200, then everything fits perfectly; the only issue is heat dissipation. However, since the equipment is low-power, there is a chance that everything will work. I was considering moving the ring to the side somehow... but it's really a bit cramped.
Sheila1322
Are you planning to keep hermatypic corals?
Ricky9405
The main problem is that I don't see the point of a refrigerator, and even more so a ring reactor, at such a volume; the aquarium will be cooled and the coolers will work. If using T5 lighting, it's better to make the aquarium 60x50, since the length of a 24W T5 is about 55 cm.
George5104
This is for the future since the aquarium can't physically get any bigger, and what if I want to...
In summer, my temperature reaches 32... south side... because of the child, we don't turn on the air conditioner in his presence... For the tank, for example, a jump to 30 isn't as scary as it is for the sea - so it's worth putting in a chiller.
Patricia
And what? I have a south-facing side too, and the city is further south, and I have a 140-liter marine aquarium... and the temperature with the fan has not risen above 29 in the aquarium, but the evaporation is about six liters a day. And this is despite the fact that I have neither air conditioning nor a refrigerator. By the way, this year will be the same, as I didn't manage to save up for an air conditioner. A photo of a similar fan like mine (blade diameter 15-16 cm) was mounted with two screws on the wall above the aquarium, blowing at the water at an angle, and it didn't run 24 hours a day.
Christopher8654
What is the temperature in your room? In principle, we can try it this way, but I'm afraid my spouse won't understand me. That's why the task is to put everything in the cabinet - so that nothing is next to it and there are no unnecessary distractions.
I would still like to start with specific discussions. Who can recommend a good foam cannon for this volume? And the second question - to what depth should this model be submerged in water?
Kevin8087
I hereby confirm... I have on service, on hot days the temperature in the room is high, around 28-29 degrees. There is an air conditioner, but it is almost as if it weren't there at all - it hardly cools. So, I relied on a fan, and the temperature in the aquarium also rarely reached 30. Usually, it is around 28-29.
Earl
The ideal size of the aquarium is 500x500x500, and the maximum I can accommodate is 600x500x500. Accordingly, the stand will be of the same dimensions. I want a submersible skimmer in the sump. The budget is not a concern for now; we are choosing a sensible item, but without going overboard.
Michael5242
better 600x500x500 due to the size of the lamps, deltek mse-500, Vitalik () and possibly Ati with airf, but I think the last one will be too large for your volume. Vitalik's is cheaper, the others are all about the same price, Ati is more expensive. all described are good.
Frank7213
By the way, there is such an option available, I think it is at . As for the penny delteks, they don't seem to be criticized, only the external MSEs, but I need the MSE then. I wanted to clarify about its operation - how deep should it be submerged in water? And I understand that it doesn't have a water inlet - it takes water through the body and returns the processed water the same way?
Sarah5423
The light is not very good, and it's a heavy fixture. Either a budget-class San-San or they have decent lights, but they're not cheap, whether it's just T5 or T5 + MH. I don't remember the letters, the 500 model (it's internal), I don't know the depth, check the Deltec website. Almost all foam filters pump water into themselves using a pump. Where the water is filled from the drain, they are either external or have a different working principle.
Curtis9143
I already found it - thank you. Basically, I'm even starting to think about 600, really saving one compartment + more space for additional investments (coal, antifos ...) another compartment ...
Crystal
Off-topic, but why do you need such a large return? I'm planning to install L30 or New Jet 1200 with twice the volume of resin. Isn't your upgrade a bit too much, or is there something else hanging there?
Jacqueline5976
I'll try to dance around the Deltek 600 for now. I'll throw together a sample. By the way, which fans helped you? Because in the Tang I installed two 80s for 300 liters - the temperature did rise to 30. Although there is a lid and 104W of light with reflectors.
Selena4467
The water level rises one and a half meters up there. Hüdor is neither Deltake nor Eheim - it loses power significantly. Moreover, it is adjustable. Right now, it is set to just over half of its capacity.
Scott9892
I already wrote 2x100mm. Zalman - very quiet.
Of course, there is no lid, the distance from the water level to the edge is 17-18cm.
Tomorrow I will start working with Deltec on the big aquarium. I bought myself an SC2060 yesterday.
Diana8604
Here is a sample option - criticize, suggest.
Why Hidor - because of the power reserve + adjustment. If there are better options, please suggest. The same goes for the lighting.
Also, how can we better organize automatic refilling?
Jasmine
In my opinion, the J.K. (live rocks) fight in a nano tank is completely unnecessary and just takes up space. A macroalgae tank is needed.
The compartment for osmosis water should be located at the end, behind the return. If you have a 50x60 aquarium and a full-size stand, the osmosis compartment will have a volume of about 10 liters, which is quite sufficient for this tank.
The return compartment can be reduced by half with a transverse partition. Why do you need such a large one as shown in the diagram? 4 liters will be enough.
It's better to build the auto top-off system based on a peristaltic pump - it has low output, doses accurately, and is perfect for nano tanks.
Adam4310
Here is my aquarium, it will be 65x50x50. The working volume is about 24 liters, 14, 6, and 4 liters respectively. The possibility to take from the display is about 20 liters (but it will drain about 10-12). The width of the sump is 30 cm, I forgot to sketch it "in volume."
Catherine6534
, added:
Todd8452
The Aquamedic automatic top-up system will be a good choice. You can buy it there, and it comes with a warranty.
Alyssa6727
Thank you, I'm in touch with Sergey. Is there enough light for the algae tank? And I thought a piece of live rock would be useful for biology - it never hurts, in my opinion... I'll also attach 2 fans for cooling to the sump.
John3187
I want to leave a couple of centimeters for the emergency drain - about 5 liters. And the partition glass should be angled as well, so it doesn't make noise.
Another question - is it worth making the sump out of acrylic?
Larry9400
I didn't quite understand the first part, what about the 5 liters? Why acrylic? Although if it's "available," then it might be okay, but I think finding a good adhesive for acrylic is a problem. Glass of 6 mm will be quite fine, although you can be super cautious and use 8 mm for the sample.
Jacob4800
I am planning an aquarium 500x500x500 - I want to make an emergency drain and siphon 2 cm from the working level - that is, 5 liters for the drain there and back.
Travis572
I have an energy-saving light of 11W over the sump in a large aquarium - it's enough for the chaetomorpha.
If there are good live rocks in the aquarium and in the right quantity, then they are not needed in the sump. Unless you want to create a fish tank.
There will be increased humidity in the cabinet. There will be several additional problems:
1. You will need to install an exhaust fan in the cabinet.
2. With increased humidity, fans do not last long - they will need to be replaced more often and will start to operate noisily very quickly.
It's better to cover the sump tightly with glass to reduce evaporation and not hang anything additional over it.
Jose
Regarding the lighting, I realized that one would be enough. As for the stones, I like active creatures, so I think the maximum possible number will be. For the fans, they should be installed on the aquarium - I saw some neatly paired double ones somewhere... But then there's the question about the light fixture - as I understand it, if I install MH + T5 on top, it will be at least 600, which means I would have to expand the aquarium, but I wanted it to be square. And if it's a hanging light, has anyone installed fans for cooling the aquariums? And is MH really necessary for such a volume? Or is 4xT5 = 96W enough?
Alan273
I can offer you a suitable option for your aquarium - I am selling an MH lamp specifically for cubes.
Kristin
I am considering the option of only mounting on the aquarium.
Nicole7122
There is a wire - a mount... for example, where it hung for me - the ceiling is high - I took a furniture corner and hung it on the wall... )) well, that's that... )))
Curtis
Here are similar coolers around the world - depending on what will inhabit the aquarium, but I think we need either MH150 + 2x24T5 or 6x24T5, four will be too few, unless it's just for a fish tank - for that, four will be enough.
Johnny
I was just thinking along those lines - we need to look for it here... But with a normal lamp, it's a hassle. The Chinese seem to have everything unfinished, everyone is redoing something, whether it's ventilation or electronics...
Tammy2040
I understand, but I haven't seen such propellers with us; I will probably order a similar one for four coolers. As for the lights... there's no stress, it's all very simple - either cheap San-San and similar ones, or much more expensive ones like Ati in Airif - as they say, "there's something for every taste and wallet size, there's a choice."
Ryan
As a lamp for your aquarium, this is the perfect option. I have the exact same one, but with 70W. You can also buy a dual or quadruple cooler there, which attaches to the side of the aquarium. The included bulbs are not great, so you should get a Reeflux 12000K. Additionally, for night lighting, you can get something LED.
Mariah
Today I met with Sergey. He suggested a few interesting ideas. One of them is to use not 1 MH, but 4 T5. The argument is that using 4 T5 of different spectra will provide better color rendering compared to 1 MH in a single spectrum.
And there's another question. Who constantly uses a flow-through UV? There are cases of UV housing being eaten away; has anyone encountered such an issue?
Brandon9634
I have never observed cases of UV body erosion myself; it usually happens when the aquarist is not interested in the device, forgets that it exists, is turned on, and remembers it only when it starts smoking, burning, etc. This happened during maintenance with one irresponsible person... Sometimes it happens that the UV is "turned off" by switching off the pump, but they forget about the lamp. Then they get a surprise when they turn the pump back on...
Rodney3101
Greetings everyone!
I am finalizing the concept, reading and analyzing... so the final specification will come a bit later...
Right now, I'm considering a return pump... what if I use an Eheim 1260 with a flow rate of 2400 l/h - I understand it's powerful, but what is it needed for - if I split the output into 2 or even 4 outlets - and use it to create internal flow.
What do you think, has anyone tried this?
As for the lighting, I'm currently thinking of going with 2 or 3 of these fixtures, that is, 96W or, if desired, 144W. Again, is there a need for metal halide? Or is this a more optimal option for such a volume?
Steven757
It is better not to do this and to install the appropriate flow pumps where needed. I would not recommend adding additional functions to a pump that is designed for a specific purpose. Later, this may cause additional problems with water flow regulation (such as noise, for example) and, as will inevitably become clear later, difficulties with the maintenance of the aquarium itself.
Joseph8592
On the contrary, I wanted to go the route of minimizing equipment in the aquarium... I would direct 2 flows down the back wall and 2 flows from the center to the opposite corners - that is, in theory, they would meet in the middle and go back into the sump. And most importantly, nothing extra - no pumps are visible... And the return 1260 seems to be one of the most reliable...
Angel628
Yes, but only for about 300-400 liters, not 150. 1250 will be more than enough for you, especially if you don't plan on using a lot of corals, since 96 watts is barely sufficient for them; they need more. So, you need something that can handle around 300-400 liters at that height, not about 1500-1800, which the 1260 will provide. 96 watts will be enough for a fish tank, but for corals, you need 144 watts, and in that case, it's better to order one ATI 6x24 watts to avoid cluttering with three of those Hagen lights; the price will be almost comparable. P.S. You can also make something with diodes; there are plenty of similar projects on the logo now.
Sheila
But can you imagine what will be left of 2400 after a 1.2m rise + distribution to 4 outlets... As a continuation option, I want to get to the controllers as well; I have planned space for a calcium reactor and CO2 - so I understand that I won't be able to do without MH?
Danielle9144
So, the idea that a pump without a flow is not good? And I initially plan to set the UV at 9W, meaning it will come after the return pump, and as an option, I want to install a tee so that if it gets tight, I can connect the chiller, but that's a long way off. Regarding lighting, 8LL makes no sense, a maximum of 6 T5 at 24W or MH + 2 T5 at 24W. In principle, in terms of power, both 1 MH and 6xT5 at 24W are similar. That's why I'm asking if it's worth it; with 6 LL, there are more possibilities to vary the color rendering, while with 1 MH, you just install it and that's it...
Chelsea
In general, I asked about the light, we're waiting. As for the return, I don't know yet... the only downside is that a large shaft needs to be made around the perimeter... but otherwise, it can be directed anywhere... I just wouldn't want to experiment for 200 bucks.
Rick
Just set up a flow stream and don't reinvent the wheel, especially in 150 liters, and have a separate pump for the return.
Sara4035
I will explain why I need 4 outlets:
1. To remove excess equipment in a small aquarium.
2. By lowering the flow along the back wall, I can avoid silt buildup in that area.
3. One pump won't provide the same mixing as 4 outlets.
The only question is whether everything will work as it should, as I haven't found any formulas for calculating all the bends and branches. In this case, the Hidro L-40 would be suitable since it is adjustable, but it seems to have starting issues, which is very important to me because I plan everything so that the system can be left unattended for a week or two, and sometimes the power goes out.
Bridget
1. adding % rejection rate of the pallet due to one pump
2. directing the stream does the same thing
3. set two, three - if adjustable and controllable - set to 20-30% operation and set 3-4
if you want to do it - no problem, go ahead, and we will discuss the results of such a solution later
Wendy2244
Пожалуйста, предоставьте текст для перевода.
Rebecca1419
Then the question is, if I take the EHEIM 1250 for return, how many and what type of flow pumps (power) should I get? By the way, I started considering the size of the aquarium 600x500x600 (W x D x H). I will most likely plan for 1x150 MH + 4x24 T5 + moonlight.