• I seek advice.

  • Laura4892

Small foamers (BOYU) are with the Weaver's rail. Now about the design of the filtration chamber. The chambers - F2 and the pump - the level will not be constant there (constant only in the first and second). Evaporation (+ the foamer will push out some water from chambers 3 and 4). Are you planning an auto top-off? The pump - with one, fewer questions about the joints. With two - you can direct the flows independently. The openings, in my understanding of this design, should be at the same level.

Joshua3019

Drain holes are better made in the form of a grid. Otherwise, you will constantly be fishing out fish and shrimp from the filter compartment.

Scott9892

I would choose the Hydor Seltz L30, 1200 l/h - it is adjustable and very quiet. I would only keep the sponge, the rest is unnecessary. Many people express strong opinions against sponges, claiming they are nitrate factories - although most of them don't even have tests and don't know how to use them. As I understand it, if the water flow through the sponge is continuous and it is rinsed every two weeks, nothing will happen to the water parameters and the inhabitants of the aquarium. In my Resun-400, I rinse the sponge only once a month.

Jacob7201

Thank you. I saw BOYU skimmers on the Reefclub website. They all have wooden diffusers, which I don't want. I haven't seen other skimmers. Maybe you can suggest a brand, or should I call Reefclub? I plan to use an auto top-off. In which compartment should I install it? Still, at what height should I make the holes for the outlet pump(s) with a water height of 50 cm in the aquarium?

Jesse

Something like this? But here there are only large diameters. Maybe we can adapt something from plumbing?

Joseph2576

Thank you for the suggestion regarding Filter1. What should I fill Filter2 with?

Angel628

no, this

Karen

Is a 10-15 cm overflow sufficient for my aquarium?

Laura7633

If this is the width, it will be enough.

Jasmine

This comb has two dimensions: length and height. Perhaps you are referring to a different design of overflow?

Charles5941

Well, there is also an overflow with a "Durso" standpipe. You have an overflow in the rear compartment without a standpipe (if I understood correctly), you can buy a ready-made comb and shorten it, or you can make it yourself. In any case, a width of 10-15 cm is even with a margin.

Janet5447

Are you preparing for the sea?

Sara

Initially, it was planned for freshwater. Now I think it will be for the sea. I've been reading forums about the sea for a month and a half. I understand that everything is not quite right, but I will try. Is there something critical here? Sorry for posting in your thread.

Jeremy

What you are reading is very good; haste is not needed in our maritime business. A few questions. 1. What material are the pipes made of, if not metal-plastic? 2. How will you clean the holes in the pipes when they get clogged in six months, which they definitely will? 3. Will it be convenient for you to service the biofilter? It seems a bit small for such a volume.

Randy

It will go under the sea. Remove the false bottom; it's unnecessary in the sea. Make the return as usual through the top, and fill the shafts with J.K. (live stones), and fillers like coal, antifos, etc. will fit in there just fine. I understand that the samp is not planned?

James1625

1 - Plastic pipes for hot water, which are assembled with glue, I don't know the name. 2 - On the false bottom plate, the holes are 1.5mm, and in the pipes, they are 3.5mm. I think they won't get clogged too much. 3 - The volume of the biofilter compartment is 56 liters (total), the filter itself is of course smaller. Maintenance is quite normal, I can reach everywhere without problems. A sump is not planned, as I was thinking of freshwater. The false bottom cannot be removed anymore. Let it circulate oxygen-enriched water through the substrate. I think it won't be bad.

Shelby3182

No problem, thank you. I am currently planning this internal sump as a replaceable one. Regarding the false bottom filter, I agree with the "sea wolves." The internal sump, as a replaceable unit, is a separate box with partitions, a skimmer, and filters. What is the width of your internal sump and what skimmer do you plan to install? I would install two pumps, and I would put one on an uninterruptible power supply.

Jonathan6173

The filter width is 170mm, but I don't remember the length. I agree about the false bottom, but I can't remove it structurally (or I could place a piece of steel over the entire area). I haven't thought about which skimmer to install yet. If only we could see these skimmers, but no one has them. I need to look for them in Simferopol. But everything is ahead; for now, I'm collecting stones from the sea. I've already gathered some. Tomorrow I plan to install something. I'll take water from the sea and adjust the salinity. Why is the false bottom so critical? Please clarify! The planned layer of substrate is 2-3 cm.

Heather

They will definitely get clogged. And even if they don't, they will definitely overgrow, and the water will stop flowing through them.

Phillip9722

Not as long as you think. Trust me, they will grow back quickly enough. It's up to you, but I wouldn't leave that diameter. It's better to do it once and not have to redo it later.

Allison

Yes! They made me think))))

Jacqueline5976

If I don't forget, I can take a photo of the drain pipe from the inside. There is a crust of growths there.

Kevin3114

Thank you for supporting my topic. But still, regarding my problems. I understand that in my concept, there is little sea and light. I am playing with the option of my (reminding) 150-160 liters = 1 m³, 150 watts, T 1400K. The question is, is it necessary to use actinic lighting with such light? And if it is necessary, what wattage of fluorescent lights should be used?

Jerry

Maybe you should give up on MG? You can manage with just T5 lamps...

Chad9037

Lamps from different manufacturers with the same color temperature (14,000K) will shine differently. You need to look at the peaks in the color of the lamp or visually. Try it out. First, hang the MH and see for yourself if you need actinic light. P.S. The spectrum of the lamps and how they illuminate the aquarium is very individual. Everyone has their own preferences.

Michelle

with ATI lamps only))))

Joyce

We are a dark people, we have not been educated in the noble universities... Guys, what are you talking about?

Thomas5021

Come visit, and you'll see for yourself how they work and what grows under them and how...

Veronica

Thank you for the invitation. I will take advantage of it. So, for my 150-160 liters, there are two options: 1. 4 pieces of T5 24 Watt (two 10000-14000 K + two actinics) 2. 150 Watt MH 10000-14000 K (additional lighting with blue LEDs 18-20 Watt is possible). Kind people, please advise. It's time to move from theory to practice (my hands are itching).

Mitchell7972

4 pcs T5..., but 5 pcs are not allowed? a beautiful combination of 2 pcs blue plus, 2 pcs aqua blue special, 1 pc actinic It will look very beautiful.

Sarah

By 4 24W, I mean two Sansan fixtures. To be honest, I don't want to make a 5 24W fixture myself.

Frederick

If so, then it's better to change the ballasts in the fixtures...