How to properly set up a 300-liter marine aquarium.

Rodney7316

Hello! I read literature on marine aquaristics and decided to create an aquarium. I am planning a 300-liter aquarium. I expect to invest moderately in equipment, live rocks in batches, and for lighting, I plan to use LED for now, and add metal halide when I introduce fish. I will assemble the light fixture and the aquarium myself. What method of overflow and water supply to the filtration system is more practical? Should the diameter of the pipes for drainage and water supply be the same? What equipment do you recommend? Thank you in advance!

Andrew7823

To answer correctly, you need to know more about the future aquarium. How many fish? What kind of corals (SPS, LPS, soft)? First, you need to determine whether it will be a reef tank (focusing on corals with minimal fish) or a fish tank (if there are corals, then soft ones). It's better to start the discussion about the aquarium with goals. What do you want to achieve? What kind of aquarium do you find beautiful?

Leslie

I make the return 3/4" and the drain 1". In your case, it can be less.

Patrick4439

Hello, Ray! I plan to have a reef aquarium, meaning I want to gradually move from simple to more complex setups since I don't have much experience in keeping aquariums! I hope for your expertise; please advise me on where to start. In my understanding, a beautiful aquarium is a beautiful reef (lots of rocks) with 6-12 beautiful fish. In my case, I understand that a 1/2" drain and a 3/4" supply should be sufficient.

Randall7906

look at the overflow device, this aquarium is now a beautiful reef

Curtis

Ray provided a good link; the drain is done properly with a backup drain. If you do it this way, it will be very reliable... I have done it similarly, and it has been working for over 17 years. Just in case, I will give a few more links to other options for the drain: Additionally, in this section of the AL forum: there is a lot of information about pumps, drains, pipe diameters, pump performance and brands, as well as many other things necessary for creating an external filter... take the time to read it.

Vincent

I looked at the overflow device. It's an interesting solution, but it's hard to see in the photos where everything goes under the aquarium. Is there a clearer connection diagram available somewhere? How does the water get into the well, through the comb, or are there grates in the pipes? It's very hard to see in the photos. What does "fluted pump" mean? As I understand it, water comes from the 4th pipe in the photo to the pump and then directly to the 5th pipe? And where can I buy PVC pipes and fittings? I have a soldering iron for heating pipes; will it work?

John3165

The soldering iron is not suitable, and the heating pipes are not suitable. PVC can be bought in Kyiv; I know where it's cheap in Moscow, but I don't know in Komsomolsk. PVC is essential.

Chelsea567

Why don't they fit? What are you using to assemble the PVC pipes?

Angel628

What is unsuitable I read in the literature. And why? Because they react with saltwater and get destroyed.

Stephanie4990

I understand that you do not weld PVC pipes, so what adhesive is used for sealing joints? And does it not interact with saltwater?

James4342

PVC or PVC pipes are glued with lfix glue, which I have used, or its analog. It is intended for PVC and plumbing pipes. The glue is gray in color with a strong smell and is very convenient to work with. Use only high-quality PVC pipes; counterfeit or other plastics are destroyed by seawater, but I have already mentioned this to you.

David7773

Hello, Rey! I am showing the installation diagram in the aquarium for the fittings, drainage system, and supply with dimensions. If something is wrong, please correct it. I didn't understand the sump diagram. Please provide the dimensions of the sump, the distance between the partitions, and the continuation of the sump, as I didn't understand that part. Thank you!!!

Katie5500

The bigger the sump, the better. Don't rush to glue the partitions, just like the sump itself; it needs to have a foam block so you can estimate the size of the compartment for it, plus it should be removable for cleaning.

Holly

You planned the Penik and DSB for me according to the scheme. DSB should be the very last thing. Make a compartment for the calcium reactor, for the hydroxide stirrer, osmotic water, coal, return pump, and phosphate reducer. You can also add a heater (but it's unnecessary; during the day, the temperature rises to 27, and at night, it drops to 24 - just like the daily temperature fluctuations on a reef). Only after that should you plan the DSB - although I wouldn't recommend getting involved with it. Its role is that of a nitrate filter. Buy another 5 kilograms of stones; they will serve as the DSB in the sump (just my opinion).

Michelle1662

There are as many as 5 holes in the aquarium - WHAT THE HELL?!?!?!?!? It's just a hassle! The purpose of draining and raising is to take water from the display aquarium to the sump, filter and clean it, and return it to the aquarium. In your case, a flood is possible if the power goes out!!!!

Joshua3019

The first pipe is for draining to collect film in the aquarium, the second pipe is the main drain, the third is the water supply from the sump to the aquarium, the fourth and fifth are for the siphon pump which is looped, and what kind of flood can there be if the water level is 1 cm above the grate of the well, and when the power is off, the volume of water is 0.6 * 1.2 * 0.01 = 0.0072, that is, 7.2 liters + water in the well 0.2 * 0.1 * 0.52 = 0.010, that is, 10 liters, totaling 17 liters, am I right or am I mistaken? The fourth and fifth pipes with the siphon pump do not create stagnant zones under the stones. The system is taken from the development of Rey Tkachev.

Katherine

It would have been possible to make one drain pipe! And why is that? Here is my drain-lift. It works without problems. I just need to change the pump from 3000 l/h to 4000 l/h.

Jeffrey6189

Pipes 4 and 5 are connected to the flute pump and circulate without creating stagnant zones under the stones. As for the drainage system, I believe it's better to have an emergency drain, and besides, it operates silently.

Michael3221

I'm posting the samp scheme, if something is wrong, please edit it. Thank you!

Jessica

look at the sump diagram by Max I liked how it was done, and the reservoir for adding osmotic water can be made in a separate aquarium or a small canister, a barrel of 50-80 liters can be used.

Stephen

Please advise on what lighting is best to use. What lamps and ballasts? How can one assemble it oneself? Thank you!

Daniel4967

Just don't take the Sylvanya MH lamps - they have a bad reputation... And if you suddenly decide to make an MH spotlight yourself, use a 1000-watt one instead of a 500-watt one (as stated on the website), then you won't have to drill anything.

Barbara

In Chernihiv (ask Pasha where), there are decent fluorescent lamps with reflectors at a reasonable price. By the end of February, Aravana promises to deliver some good metal halide lamps, judging by the photos. For the time being, a fluorescent lamp will be enough, and later you can gradually choose metal halide lighting; the fluorescent lamp won't be unnecessary either.

Karen1649

Good afternoon! How are things with the marine aquarium?