• A wall of dry reef stones in the nanomor.

  • Jacob4800

Congratulations to the esteemed society of sailors! Finally, I have decided to create a small marine aquarium. I plan to convert a standard 60-liter aquarium from "nature" into a 45-liter marine setup with a side three-chamber sump of 15 liters. The planned inhabitants include just a mated pair of clownfish and a couple of anemones. I intend to start with dry reef rocks in the display and broken live rocks in the sump. The choice of dry reef rocks was made due to the absence of any unwanted organisms, as well as the idea of creating a unique slope of rocks in the center of the aquarium, rather than a conventional pile, which would closely adhere to the back and side walls of the display (as shown in the drawing). The design of the slope is very conceptual—I plan to create terraces for securing soft corals. My questions are whether such a structure is practical for a volume of 45 liters (I would greatly appreciate a link or at least the name of such a reef) and whether it will be necessary to seal the joints between the slope and the glass of the aquarium with silicone to prevent water flow between the slope and the glass. A classic slope does not satisfy me because a significant area of its surface would be hidden from view, while in my slope, all the life will be "on display."

Robert800

The slide should be detachable, and a small flow pump is better placed behind it. Silicone will not bond with S.R.C. (dry reef rocks).

Alyssa6727

I don't know how and why to shove the bitter pump of the current - in this case, there should be something like a whole cave behind it. The dry reef stones are planned to be glued together not with silicone, but with cement; I want to use silicone to fill the gap between the hill and the glass (here I hope everything will hold). And what will the fact that the hill is disassemblable give?

John3142

To prevent stagnant areas from forming behind the hill... Why? I wonder how it will go for you...

Jeremy8404

so that there are no stagnant areas between the wall and the glass! )))

Andrew419

, it will not hold stones! , the possibility of rearrangement, and it (the desire) will be , they will!

Gabriel

Don't push the pump against the rocks... Just a properly organized flow is enough. Detritus will settle in the sump. It's good to use KORALLEN-ZUCHT glue-cement for decorations. I recently glued rocks myself. I liked this glue. The price is reasonable.

Allison

Where did you get this wonder, if it's not a secret? I was planning to use white cement to create a squeaky effect with S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) and form the desired wall (not in the aquarium itself, but in a plywood formwork, and then attach the soaked wall to the glass of the aquarium with silicone or something similar). As for the pump outside the wall, it would just end up being a standard arrangement of rocks, like a hill in the center of the aquarium, which is what I want to avoid.

Michele

I don't understand why you need to silicone the slide between the slide itself and the glass? This glue is good because you can use it underwater. You can buy it at Airife. A similar glue is also available from Fan Marin. The reviews about it are good.

Wesley

You choose one stone of the appropriate size, cut a straight edge on three sides, and fit it against the walls, and there is no need to connect or silicone anything, while the remaining stones can be used as a base for propagating zoanthids and more.

Alexander

I will add - There will be no adhesion of silicone and the slope. That is, silicone will not hold the dry reef rocks (D.R.R.). It will hold, but not for long. This glue will hold the dry reef rocks (D.R.R.), but there will be no adhesion to glass. Slopes of this kind are even secured with mounting foam, but this is a poor method.

Rick

It will be easier this way.

Brandon9634

If your slope is tightly fitted against the walls of the Aqua, and there are any openings in the S.R.K. (dry reef rocks), it will be clogged with detritus. And if you organize a current to blow all this out, the corals will be in shock. But whatever you do, listen to both people and your heart. Somehow it will work out. The sea is different for everyone. And also, with such a placement of the drain into the sump and your slope, I don't know why no one noticed, will the water splash too much in the sump? Waves in shallow water are usually larger.

Scott9892

Thank you for the comment!))) The slide will have to be turned towards the other side wall, or we can make it not too high.

Ronald

By the way, how can you make the glass between the display and the sump opaque? Should it be painted with something, or should you order the partition made of colored glass? And can anyone with experience in furniture making advise on what weight such a contraption can safely hold?

Jeffery

So, have you already made the aquarium or not? If not, use non-transparent or tinted glass. If you have already made it, use a blue "arokal" float or attach (or glue) plastic of the desired color.

Heather6148

The aquarium is still in development, and I'm currently thinking about what type of glass to order for the partition between the display and the sump. I plan to order it from a glass workshop at the Kurenevsky market, and I'm not sure if they have blue glass for sale... What kind of plastic is this supposed to be?

Mitchell3177

dark tinted - also not bad)), or white matte)) and the film needs to be searched for in an advertising company. the plastic should be such that it doesn't release harmful substances, food-grade that is.

Wendy8540

A good workshop can create a white matte mechanical tinting (this is important to pay attention to, as chemical tinting can be very harmful), or you can wrap any glass yourself using fine sand.

Melanie

The best option is to make it from black opaque glass.

Christopher1774

The glass is clear, but can someone advise on the cabinet (post 15)? What weight can this piece of furniture realistically support? Right now, it holds a 60L tank (60/30/35), but I want to put a slightly larger tank for the sea, at least around 70-80/40/40, which would be 112-128 liters just for the water, not including equipment and so on...

Joshua9847

What if this cabinet is tightly squeezed between a bookshelf and a sturdy computer desk (meaning it's problematic to collapse like a house of cards here)? Will it withstand about 120 kg of weight without consequences?

Chelsea

The bracket is attached to the wall, but it's still unclear how it will behave with moisture. It was probably designed for a TV weighing no more than 40 kg. Some finishing work is needed. There are vertical (middle) supports, but they only bear the weight on the sides, which is insufficient; the actual weight will be 150-180 kg. The most important thing is to install it level.

Kimberly2102

I have a shaft made of black 10 (not to be confused with very dark bronze) and the rear window is covered with black film, nothing is visible through it. The glass must be black, not tinted.

Matthew1280

Since there are difficulties with the modernization of the stand, and the floor is not super even, we will have to stick with the existing 60 liters.