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Cynthia
Laura3673
Gentlemen, PLEASE, we are not discussing the correctness of choosing the type of lighting, the correctness of choosing the type of startup, and the correctness of using chemicals for the startup. This is only about which LED to choose. What nuances are there when starting with everything dry? What chemicals should be chosen for the beginning and for the future?
I will try to describe the startup process as thoroughly as possible and how the jar will mature and thrive. Then everything will fall into place regarding the correctness of the approach.
Julie
I would choose a factory LED. First, it has properly selected crystals, and second, the design of the fixture is well thought out. Plus, 80 euros is not just lying around. However, on the other hand, I think the factory version doesn't have a computer, and that also makes me think seriously.
Angel628
The design of the homemade one is quite good... The factory one has a remote time controller with sunrise and sunset function, which is essentially a computer. The question here is about watts; is 25 watts sufficient (it fits perfectly in length) or should I go for 40 watts, which is 18 cm longer than the aquarium?
David953
In terms of inhabitants:
corals SPS/LPS: Leptoseris, Acanthastrea, Tubastraea, umbrellas, Histrix, a couple of Montipora, possibly Acropora, Ricordea... nothing else comes to mind for now...
Fish: either 2 small gobies or something else unusual... but something that fits my volume...
2-3 Strombus, shrimp of 3 species... maybe Iām asking for too much... Blood Tor, Lysmata, Wunderpana... beautiful snails...
Karen81
Can I see a photo?
This is exactly what I need!
I'm not an expert here, but again, it will be very tight, especially since the SPS will be involved. For example, I have 8 stars with three crystals each, which gives me 72 watts for roughly 70 liters of water, and I use it at 85-90% power. I'll send you the master's contact details in a private message; try to consult with him about the liters/watts issue.
Andrew9246
Off-topic, regarding the photos and consultation - I replied in private. Theoretically, I think this: 1 watt of ice is equal to 2 T5/mg watts...
Joseph8842
I read somewhere that 2 LED watts equal 3 fluorescent watts, so I did it that way, plus a small power reserve so that the crystals wouldn't run at 100% power and wouldn't heat up too much, resulting in 72 watts.
Andrea
perhaps... opinions differ here... I definitely don't know how to calculate it correctly...
Sydney
Set it to just under one to one, and then you can mute them with the computer, and they will serve you for a hundred years, especially since you only need five or six stars.
William5838
For now, I still lean towards the factory version... And for the open sea - a homemade one.
Amanda
Well then, 40 watts.
Debra6575
I think so too... I would like a suitable length for the wire... otherwise, 10 watts will shine in all directions.
Adrienne
Maybe we should look for another lamp? Otherwise, it doesn't seem very feng shui.
Steven757
Well, there's nothing more for my length... and buying another aquarium - knowing myself, that would be +1 in the apartment, which would be a bit too much.
Brandon9634
Well, then it turns out to be homemade. It's not right for the light to shine past the aquarium.
Frank7213
You don't need to be a fortune teller to see this. It's definitely homemade.
John828
I was already thinking about the idea of reapplying the last decals at an angle. I just emailed the manufacturer; maybe they will suggest something...
Joseph1346
Is it because it's long or for some other reason?
Thomas1044
I use stars with Cree LEDs and a controller from Rea (Airsoft). It works quite well. Based on a 20-liter setup - 2 WBR stars (with 3 LEDs per star).
Laura7633
due to everything.
homemade wins on all points.
Frank7213
So according to your logic, after these words, I should run and order a handmade one? I'm just askingāwhat are the advantages?
Alan273
I thought I answered you. Advantages in everything:
- sizes
- power
- diodes
- spectrum
The fixtures you linked to only win in one aspect - price.
It's up to you to decide where and when to run, I'm not your mom.
Monique1236
here is the only reasonable advantage... everything else is practically the same. That's my confusion.
Tanner
What do you have in common?
Do you even know what kind of diodes they use in this SPS bar? What is the ratio? What is the spectrum? What is this strobe mode... is it a Christmas garland or something?
In general, when ordering a custom-made one, you can be sure of:
- its size (strangely enough)
- the generation of the diodes
- the ratio and spectrum chosen correctly (by you personally)
- sufficient power
When buying a Chinese LED SPS bar, you can't be sure of anything.
Jessica6754
I understood the opinion. The same Kree LEDs are there, you can check the spectrum by the LED model. There are also reviews.
Diana8604
next post
John5528
The same LED chips are of different generations, what diodes are in the SPS bar? How to view the spectrum by the LED model? What does it mean? How to see the ratio of diodes? Maybe a third of the radiator is filled with red and green ones? They say there are UV, how many of them? What is the operating temperature? Current?
In general, if you like it, take it; with the saved 80 euros, you can buy another SPS, it will come in handy.
Dana6523
I didn't say I disagree... I pointed out how they are similar. See above. If I had a definite opinion, there wouldn't be the main question about the light here.
Dennis
I don't know why to look at Watts. Lux/Lumens and so on are more interesting.
Check out the Aquarators; they indicate the light output.
A 60 cm marine lamp, for example, produces 1200 Lux.
Considering that all the light from LEDs is directed downwards, it's even more/ brighter than a T5 24W with a reflector. If it seems insufficient, you can use two.
The manufacturer.
The most useful thing about this lamp is that you can hold it in your hands, see how it lights up, decide if you like it or not, and only then spend the money.
Alexandra
I can't understand ... is this an advertisement?
Zoe7451
I held it in my hands and we shone it into the aquarium - well, it shines, shines like for someone not used to boiling water - a bit dim - we stepped back from the aquarium, looked from the side - it shines normally - we compared it with the ATI lamp that has 2xMH and 4xT5, but is suspended over the aquarium at a meter - the LED shone about the same way, just with richer colors. That's when I decided to order a homemade one, but a bit more powerful.
But the case and the execution itself... - beautiful.
James1625
A question has arisen: who used what chemicals for the launch and further use? What were the nuances and are you satisfied with the results? I'm interested in everything, preferably with names. Thank you in advance.
Jonathon8514
Currently planning to buy:
Start Up Prodibio 12 ampoules
then use
Bio Digest 30 ampoules
Also for food and vitamins for the large aquarium and small one:
GroTech VitAmino M 500ml
PlanktoineP 250ml GroTech
GroTech NutriineN 1000ml
What do you think of this set???
What are the reviews?
What will happen if after this entire cycle I stop adding all these ampoules?
Adam
I asked myself the same question. For now, I've stopped at Zyucht, where it's clearāhere are the bacteria and here is the food for them... With Prodibio, it's not so transparent...
Katie4842
I also look at them, as everything seems more complicated for me. At least after reading the topic about zeophytes, Denis, I got completely confused... Maybe you have a link with a more accessible description?
Joshua9340
No, but if we set aside everything unnecessary (in my opinion), we should take ZEObac (bacteria) and ZEOstart (feed). Then we should also add ZEOfood7 to this. That's it. Use in half the recommended doses.
Katie3017
here opinions differ
Dawn6148
In what? Prodibio has already been tried, I didn't see anything supernatural, but I didn't see anything bad either.
Aaron6112
Well, what's unnecessary and what's not... With ProDibio, it seems to be the same... First the startup, then the rest...
Jacob7201
Youāve confused me... What do you consider unnecessary and what not? Bacteria are needed for the start and stability, we add them and keep adding food for them. Then we add another food for the bacteria and the corals that have already appeared, whatās wrong with that?
Andrea6761
No, I'm not confusing it. There are also bacteria there; I probably mixed it up with the Zeophyte system... In general, I'm still trying to understand it... I wanted to hear some reviews, but there are really very few.
Christine864
And again the question: for example, my launch is planned only on dry reef rocks (D.R.R.)... The instructions for these products state that they are absolutely ideal to use with live rocks (L.R.).... And again, I am not getting exactly what I wanted from these ampoules... It turns out that no matter how you look at it, I will need to add some fresh live rock (L.R.)? For the sake of worms and bugs + bacteria from the reef?
Charles4157
It seems like a provocation, the topic is about LED, won't we get banned?
As for me, if you plan to start with dry rock (DRC), you need to rinse them first... preferably under pressure (with a pressure washer), then soak them, changing the water over time. Only then should you start. For live rock (LR), I think it's better to have a small piece. Then there are the bacteria...
Randy
My theme is that I create whatever I want, especially since it all relates to the topic. To rinse and soak is all clear. I was thinking of starting sterile... Just dry food + chemicals... but it might not work... Although for a week or 5 days, you can add some fresh stuff, like live rocks. A lot of people talked about chemicals, but no one is around when it's really needed.
Martha
No, they won't ban the topic starter. He asks questions, which means that's how he needs it, that's how it's convenient for him.
Stuart
A lot has already been said here. And Denis explained the ZEOvitĀ® system here.
Adam4310
Yes, the topic has been raised... but it's always very vague and just varies for everyone with the same initial conditions... One started the livestock after 12 hours, another after 2 weeks, and the third used live rocks + chemistry... and so on...
I am concerned about the chemistry and starting with completely dry rocks. In this case, how and what should be done? And how much live rock should be added?
Jill1815
An interesting method is mentioned on RiffCentral for "transforming" S.R.C. (dry reef rocks) into L.R. (live rocks). The essence is that S.R.C. (dry reef rocks) are placed in a container with seawater (preferably "live") and strong aeration. After some time, all the detritus will be removed from the rock, and colonies of bacteria will settle in it. The rock is then taken out, rinsed, and placed in the aquarium. In my opinion, the convenience also lies in the fact that this preparation can be done long before the aquarium itself is set up. Of course, it won't be premium L.R., but it's still better than dry S.R.C. (dry reef rocks).
Laura4892
I am one of them ... what do you need, huh?
To start up completely painlessly, you need to use sand and a little water from one of your cans + bacteria. Everything went perfectly for me.
Tara2761
No, I actually have all the salt in the S.R.K. (dry reef rocks)... I want to properly construct something with cement, let the cement cure properly... Make holes for the plugs right away (thinking it through as much as possible). I want to create a marine candy on my desk... Reviving the LCD won't quite fit... A lot will be lost during drying, drilling, and cementing...
Matthew
An interesting way. So, if I throw a dry piece of bread into the container where I prepare water, will that bring me happiness?
Heather2018
First, gather everything, and then "revive" it. The main thing is to find a container for the collected reef. Although you can also do it in the aquarium itself and then change 100% of the water.
Melinda
I don't know. I wrote what I read about. There is certainly logic; everything that comes from S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) will end up not in the aquarium, but in the sewage system.
Daniel
It seems you don't care about me if you are stubbornly trying not to see/hear me.
I will repeat once again (I hope for the last time). I also prepared the dry piece... I drilled and glued it in the sun for more than one day. Then, when the structure was ready, I soaked it (to death).
It's better to drill the holes for the plugs directly in the aquarium; for this, you will need a drill and a flexible extension for the drill.
Feel free to ask more questions; I am completely open.
Lindsey3628
But where will the bacteria come from there?
Erin2730
And what can come of it???? That's the question...
Frederick
Well, I wrote that it is preferable to pour "live" water, as there are bacteria present. And in the S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) they are there too, just "encapsulated." Here is the topic on ReefCentral.
Melissa3200
Usually, in dry reef rocks, there is a lot of dead organic matter. During its decomposition, phosphates, nitrates, ammonium, etc. are formed. If dry reef rocks are placed directly into the aquarium, all of this will enter the aquarium and cause the appearance of brown algae, etc. Otherwise, it will all go into the sewage system.
Anne
Apparently, I didn't understand you correctly from the start... Everything was dry for you, right? You assembled the structure, all good. Did you add live rocks to the aquarium for liveliness? Which ones and how did you add the bacteria? Was there a cycle? Cyanobacteria? How quickly did it pass? How soon did you introduce the first fish? Corals? Here, I seem to have gathered all the questions in one post; will my guesses match your experience? Do you have any recent photos of your tank?
Brent7831
I can bet a bottle of beer that in the fresh J.K. (living stones) there is much more of this organic matter...
Andrea6761
And in the holding?
Anthony4281
It seems you missed the topic.
Ricardo7341
Of course, but she is ALIVE there.
Patricia1746
Unfortunately, not all...
Cynthia
read
Jennifer5371
This is understandable, but in the S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) it is ALL dead (well, maybe a few percent is encapsulated).
Devon107
Here is an interesting description of the aquarium. It is fully set up with dry reef rocks (DRC) and cement. However, this aquarium is from August of this year at ReefCentral. In terms of appearance and the look of the corals (SPS), in my opinion, it even surpasses some aquariums that are set up purely with live rocks (LR).
Christina9947
If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I can provide the photos a bit later when I replace the broken equipment after the recent accident (flood, submerged light fixture).
Amy
What did you decide about the light?
Among the fish, check out the gobies; there are some really cool specimens.
Nicholas2252
I'm waiting for a response from two companies regarding the ice. If there's no news, I'll order the one from Fishstreet that I initially thought of... Later, if needed, it will go to the frag tank, and for this aquarium, I'll order a homemade one.
Gubanov has probably looked at all of them, but he hasn't really found the one he wants for this aquarium... I once saw a fish very similar to Chaetodermis penicilligera, but red in color, and it seemed to be walking on the reef, but I can't find either the name or a photo now... I also saw it in a nano tank...
Marie5735
I will keep an eye on your topic; I want to start with clean S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) myself. I just haven't found any information on the proper way to introduce bacteria yet.
Caroline1599
Thank you! I will try to meet expectations. korallenzucht.de has a PDF with instructions on their website.
Wendy8540
Today I started assembling the reef structure. I tried to make it as airy as possible, with shelters for the fish and plenty of places for corals. I would like to present it for review: I would appreciate criticism and advice, as I haven't glued it with cement yet.
Jennifer5371
Do you want to stock 54 liters with fish and a lot of SPS without a skimmer?
Elizabeth882
I was thinking of starting with PRODIBIO START UP. After all, the main task is to kickstart the nitrogen cycle, and which brand of bacteria to use seems to be a secondary issue (the composition is the same, I understand - nitrifying bacteria).
Debbie3587
No, the spasa will be only 2... fish 2, apparently... the rest is LPS, a bit of softies... Pennik is still in question... I'll try to finish it, we'll see + a backpack filter + replacements... Or I'll buy some nano tuna...
Melissa
I also thought so at first, but then I figured that KZ has a wider range of additives, and to avoid interference, I chose KZ... Plus, I've seen more aquariums with KZ...
Brooke
So then do something airy, not with a bunch of hiding spots and half-flat - sculpt a tree. Clowns sleep in the act or some other wriggler, while gobies are in the sand - your hiding spots are mostly irrelevant to them, and the hapatus that sleeps in the rocks won't fit into your 54.
Joe
and it's airy... probably not visible well in the photo... there are arches, projections, etc... There definitely won't be clowns... I'm tired of them. Most likely, there will be 2 small bodies, but it's not 100% yet... As for the hapatus: yesterday in the store, I saw 2-3 cm hapatus, and a wild thought crossed my mind.
Katie5500
The start has taken place!
New topic
Thank you all so much for the advice in this topic!
Chad4168
Drive her away, this little one will grow to the size of a palm in a year, 2-3 cm.
Tara2761
I know that)) I already have one.