• Javier5186

Alicia5489

Yes. Everything genius is simple. Instead of incandescent bulbs or energy-saving lamps, you can try powerful LED bulbs with a standard base; they are already available for sale even in markets. You can also use standard fixtures, but rotating and tilting, something like this: Then they can be installed on the sides of the main light, directing them to the desired spot. A HUGE THANK YOU for the idea!!! I actually have space on the sides of the main lamps.

Antonio

Once there was a "moon" on these little lamps - you could turn it in any direction.

Stephanie9175

This is what the sarcophiton looks like in "point" light....

Elizabeth1221

I have them blooming even in the "normal" way, but I feel that it's not enough for them... And it probably looks better with spot treatment.

Brandon4517

Sometimes some sources exaggerate; only cold white spectrum should be used. In combination with actinics, they clearly complement the picture of the desired light flow.

Joshua448

In deeper aquariums, where the depth exceeds 70 cm, "spot" lighting may be necessary for some soft corals. However, in my opinion, for our average dimensions of 170x60x60 cm, six 80W T-5 bulbs are quite sufficient, and if eight are needed, there is no need for "spot" lighting, as there can even be an excess, and it may be necessary to reduce the number of lamps from eight to six, since many soft corals, particularly sarcophytons and discoactinies, tend to retreat into the rocks. Here are a couple of photos showing sarcophytons under six T-5 lamps in a 60 cm deep aquarium (I believe their condition is excellent, so why do they need spot lighting?).

Lindsey3362

Indeed, at the beginning of the topic, I mentioned that point lighting is not appropriate in all cases. However, if there is a problem with personal lighting in a tall aquarium, it is possible, especially since all additional lighting sources are compact and easily fit into the design, as they are positioned vertically. For example, the DeLux-38W lamp has a bulb diameter of only about 4 cm, yet it shines excellently. Moreover, point lighting does not affect other inhabitants at all, as the light mainly focuses on the desired object, meaning it is almost not dispersed.

Wanda666

I think it also matters what kind of light the coral was grown under BEFORE it came to our aquarium. If it was under bright metal halide light, then it will likely require additional spot lighting. Of course, if the coral was grown from a frag in the same aquarium, these issues are eliminated.

Aaron6112

Also, Sark with "spot" lighting.

Andrew419

If initially T5 + MH is used, that's one thing, but if T5 is installed first and then a supplemental MH lighting is added later due to insufficient light, that's something entirely different. Moreover, the concept of "spot lighting" seems a bit vague when the same 150-watt MH illuminates an area of about 50x50 cm. ... Perhaps we just have different understandings of the very concept of "spot lighting."

Debra8438

Practice has shown that such problems arise when the "system" of aquarium lighting is poorly designed, or when savings are made on lighting, or when something is purchased that was not originally planned (like intending to have a fish aquarium but then deciding to keep invertebrates instead). This is a topic from the series "what people do just to avoid using metal halide" (c).

Colin1418

It was about like that. I bought a molly singularity in the summer. I planted it under standard T-5 lighting. It was growing poorly. As soon as I placed Brilux HQI-150 next to it with the fluorescent lights, it started to thrive, thanks to him, may God bless him, now I can only keep fragmenting it.

Julie3950

It's not tight if the length of the aquarium is 2 meters and the height is about 70 cm. That's where you need to start from. And you need to "fine-tune" it in the project itself, but if it turned out differently, then it's up to the sailor to decide how to proceed, whether to "fine-tune" it or leave it as it is. P.S. Sometimes, in fine-tuning, discoveries happen...

Richard

Not everything can be calculated right away. And there isn't always an opportunity to set up the MG in principle. The idea proposed by Anatoly is good because it allows for adjustments to the installed lighting if necessary or desired, without much hassle. I seem to have enough light, but I want to give it a try - I will do it.

Emily

If you want to try what was mentioned above (LED bulb + fixture for raster lights) - the idea is not very powerful. The LED bulb for the socket is not cheap, it heats up and burns out quickly (or burns out due to lack of proper cooling, especially under the cover), and the fixture will most likely rust very quickly. It's too luxurious for supplementary lighting (or spot lighting), especially if you need to install more than one.

Martin3206

People are training on ice lighting, and some have decent results. It is also appropriate to talk about spot ice lighting; I have one in my fish pond, and in the reef, the moonlight is on LED, shining around the clock, based on Dmitry's advice. Here is detailed information on ice lighting and its application.

Tricia7885

it's simpler and more understandable here

Karen

Tolia - what an amazing idea!!! Just incredible!!! No matter how we try to avoid it, we shine from above and can't escape the dark areas. But here we can also light it from the side for the light design and give a little puff to the needed coral and backlight, and in general, a whole new horizon for thoughtful light design. I have some grottos that can be beautifully illuminated from the side - it's just awesome - thank you for the idea and the direction of thought.

Christopher1774

The topic is closed.