help to merge into the sea.

Stephen5841

2

Daniel4967

I have a 35x35x35 cm aquarium, and it's very difficult to find suitable lamps for it. I am going to increase the size of the aquarium to 60x40x45 cm in height. Please check out my topic; it might answer many questions.

Daniel

I'm thinking about LED backlighting. I looked into it, maybe I'll get a ready-made one from Prirod or order it from the factory.

Spencer7805

Is a heater needed in the sea?

Matthew7977

Question about sand. Is it worth the trouble to bring live sand in bottles, or should I just collect dry sand on the shore? I have a bunch of stones that I brought from Crimea. I wanted to use them. If the sand from the ocean makes it, can I reduce the number of live stones, or will my own take a long time to settle?

Natasha

Don't worry about so-called live sand. Just pour in dry sand and that's it, for example, this one. If there were a large volume, you could save money and bring in Black Sea live rocks, but for your volume, it's better to get good live rocks.

Anthony

God forbid you collect dry rock on the shore, I do not recommend it. If you cannot bring live rock from uninhabited places, it is a mistake. If there are no live rocks from the Black Sea, then you shouldn't use any dry rock from Crimea at all. Your aquarium is not large, buy live rock. Don't create unnecessary trouble for yourself.

Angel2396

My advice to you, as someone who has recently started. Make an aquarium with a built-in sump at the back. A lot of problems will be eliminated. I was chasing the beauty of the aquarium and overlooked practicality. And for lighting, at least T5 24 watts is needed for 55 cm. If you go further, consider LED.

Amanda

Well, well - you should first study the theory and practice of people who have miniatures - they are heroic people - they are maniacs about their craft - I envy them - sitting with pipettes every day ... and changing the water weekly - if you can't handle the freshwater fish, then don't torture your brain - you won't manage nano ... that's why I said - if you're going to set up a sea, then a reasonable volume - it's more expensive, but you have freedom of maneuver and minimal maintenance - just rinse the bag every three days - and change 10% of the water once a month - which I personally don't do.

Sarah5423

Can you imagine what budget is needed to raise the sea in 240 liters? Just the amount of sand and live rocks required is significant. It's good that you have the sea nearby, but salting 240 liters for 500 bucks is just unrealistic; half of that would go just for the filter.

Luis3725

Yes.

Kimberly3727

I don't remember anything like that, I don't have a built-in aquarium, unless when I was cooking it was in the middle of the room. I think I should get the light on eBay - or should I go for lamps? But with the lamp option, I will need to think about the power supply if the ballast doesn't understand 220. I can also order a skimmer from there with pumps.

Catherine

I have trophy dry bread from near Eupatoria, I brought about 40 kilograms, luckily I had a car. Well, "it seems to me, Billy," it's time to sell the scalar fish, CO2, and start a new topic - how to turn freshwater into saltwater. Honestly, I wanted to do it back in 2006, but I didn't dare to dive straight into the sea. It was also complicated back then. Now I need to think about the sump and the skimmer. I can glue the sump, no problem, but with the skimmer - I work with acrylic and plastic, but I need at least some rough sketches. Or is it better to buy a ready-made one?

Gary6376

It's better to buy a ready-made one; it will be cheaper. They won't sell you 20 cm pipes, and buying 2 m is expensive. I've been looking into it.

Cynthia

Note that S.R.K. (dry reef stones) stands for Dry REEF Stone. It is specifically reef-related, and this is very important - leave the muniks from Evpatoria where they are - they will still be emitting silicates... surely they have collected limestone or basalt... I understand collecting J.K. (live stones) from under Tarkhankut... look, Anatoly has already picked them up.

Kyle

Sanya, one more piece of advice - don't rush with the equipment, especially the lighting - until you decide on the aquarium - usable sizes are important here, and for lighting, height matters too, meaning that only metal halides can penetrate a tall aquarium.

Heather2018

The aquarium is standard, 120x40x50 in height. I have porous stones, the ones with holes. There was no point in bringing limestone - there's plenty of it here.

Elizabeth1221

In general, I can activate the collective mind until my madness does something crazy. The stand is C-2, 121 cm long. The aquarium is 120x40x50. I will still try to bring live sand; it can be temporarily kept in saltwater with a pump, or is that a dead idea? Because while I finish the cabinet and the aquarium...

Erin

Well, it's fine. ATI lamps 5x54 watts. You just need to drill and glue the shaft or pocket (I think the pocket is better).

Jessica

Is it AТI? Oh, did you mean actinics? The LEDs won't handle it? I can glue in a pocket, I'll read your article about the drilling, or I'll look for a specialist...

Jessica9188

LEDs will work, but you need to install about 50 of them. Considering they cost around 35-40 each, the lamps are clearly cheaper.

Cheryl9296

Well, after such "improvements," the question arises - what's the point? I think it's easier to make a new one. I'll look at the stones; if they fit - great, if not - we'll think about it.

Whitney

Disassemble - miss, assemble - strengthen. Make a new one, either weld a metal frame or make it from solid wood (like) from glued furniture boards. Disassemble, refine - assembling is easier and cheaper.

Tracy

I provided a link, a lamp with 54 LEDs at 1W each. Among them, there are 8 actinics. 150 bucks, you can estimate how much the shipping will be, but definitely not 2000.

Chad231

Sanya, we need 50 pieces of 3 watts each.

Jeffrey

Understood, we will look for it. There is also a type of LED array 80W white, 5500Lm (33-35V, 6000-6500K) - approximately costs 384. DENTAL EDED-SLC5-03 (Cree) with a beam angle of 140 degrees, 460 nm - 21. In general, we can think about it. Although I'm not inclined to use homemade lights - they are what they are, and by the time you bring it to a commercial appearance, it ends up being more expensive than a serial product. How many lumens are needed? How much does a 150W MH give?

Michelle104

Either it's a framework or it will puzzle the furniture makers. And to finish this one - it's easier to sell it whole and start from scratch. Too many modifications. "It's easier to make a new one than to fix this one."

Erica

Make a new one - from a furniture board (beech) from Epс. The cabinet cost me 100 USD - without fronts - I made it myself. The dimensions are the same as yours, only my width is 60 cm instead of 40.

Amy9618

I have a sad experience of "communicating" with a furniture board. Like a cradle for a yacht - it warped. Beech, even more so, is a capricious and sensitive wood. I will look for a welder or a furniture maker. Is it worth buying "white sand for DSB, 100 microns, 1 kg," or should I get 1 mm? Where can I buy it? I can't seem to find a penny on the marketplace. I downloaded the Reef aquarium, but the damn thing won't convert to an electronic book, so I'll have to read it on the computer.

Daniel8015

Not all shields are the same - I am satisfied and happy - though I did break some drills while assembling. I was talking about normal shields - I took them from EPC. Now I'm just assembling boxes for furniture (for myself) from them.

Theresa5149

I also took it in the EЦ. And I took the steps there as well - they were later adjusted and polished, but still, there are some height differences, it warped over time. And this is after professional carpentry. I will look for a welder and hang the cladding, that's my preference.

Joseph591

It's your business, do as you decided - but the shields have nothing to do with it and the carpentry pro either - look, it doesn't lead, it doesn't bend, it doesn't twist, it doesn't rumble - and on top, there are half a ton and below is "sampik" ... My blog with bare numbers and photos is here.

Gabriel

I believe, but somehow it's cheaper and calmer with particle board or metal. I know well what wood is and what kind of junk you can encounter in a retail market. I will still have to involve a furniture maker; I won't do that myself. It's too responsible for the first time. Another question - I have an 8-gallon aquarium, the bottom is flat, without ribs or braces, single-layer. Will I have to modify it? Damn, I looked at photos of restarts - beautiful, and now it looks like a swamp... and I just don't feel like dealing with it.

Marie5348

Not cheaper and not calmer - just another myth-stereotype. You could have made wooden loops - Blum has already rusted. And the "corner" is a very treacherous thing and can be compared to a glued shield in relation to a 10. I won't even mention particle board. Reinforce the bottom - there will be stones there, and they won't be light with point loads on breakage.

Michelle5859

Should the bottom be glued solidly? Or should there be ribs around the perimeter and strips? I've seen how these seams can come apart; I have the same issue on my steps, "the process has started." And what's tricky about the pipe? The main thing is not to twist it during welding, and then to paint it well.

William1830

Look, here’s the topic, the aquarium sizes are the same as yours. You might find something useful. In the last message, there’s a photo of the equipment.

Tricia7885

A 500-liter LED light costs around 500 euros for the simplest models like "Maxspert" and "Key," while "Pacific Sun" is about 1000 euros. You need not 50, but around 70-80 three-watt LEDs.

Thomas

I have 240 liters. Can you show me how you made the cabinet?

Elijah7048

You will laugh - I was reading the topic until half past twelve yesterday.

Michael826

San, I didn't take many photos - what’s the point of making shields out of Epoxy? - a handful of self-tapping screws and drills - Pinotex and yacht varnish - if you decide to make it out of wood, I’ll explain in detail - and my thoughts and engineering calculations on this flood topic - but if you manage to get through it, you’ll understand a lot on your own, I really stressed everyone out there - how did the guys put up with me???!!!! Thanks again to the maritime brotherhood and a special thanks to Sanya Turbik and Yarik - they have my deep respect.

Susan9583

just without ties, or at least the overlay is not very correct. In general, I will look into the topic, read about it. But for now, I am leaning more towards a metal frame and facade panels.

Daniel9952

well then about 400 euros

Robert

In general, I think I will weld the frame if I can find a welder. I need to figure out how to make the overflow in the aquarium; I don't quite understand how it works. I need to estimate what size sump to prepare. Is a refugium mandatory? How do I choose a protein skimmer, or does the size of the compartment for the skimmer not depend on it and is it planned for "future growth"?

Emily

Ask Seryoga from Starkompyuter - I sent him all my measurements for the pocket and the sample - he put it all into a scheme and implemented it according to my sizes.

Daniel8015

I found an interesting log. The person approached thoroughly... How about you? Will you be attaching a fish room? ;-)

Debbie3587

They depend. If you make compartments like mine, then almost any foam will fit your volume. Highly desirable. Along the entire length and width of the cabinet. Height 30-40 cm.

Shane

I installed the stand AFTER I inserted the sump. Check the drawings of my cabinet. The front central post is removable. So adjust the dimensions. You can never have too much sump. All the equipment fits in there. You can slightly reduce the pocket (150x150x150). The height from the ribs remains the same. Recalculate the holes for the Nibco pipes. 1/2" for the supply and 3/4" for the return. There are through adapters. Buy them right away and measure the diameter. Or later, what difference does it make when to drill? It will take 10 minutes.

Amber6362

I have the dimensions (ATI). But it's better to do 150x50x60. Even better is 170x60x60 - all the drawings are available.

Mario

170 - they will drown me in it... okay, I will find out what the 150 will turn into... the aquarium wants 1800. and that's for a 10. Although for the sea, I probably need to set it to 12. Is the bottom a 10 composite? I'm scared to glue it myself. Although I glued a cichlid tank of 90 liters. If starting from scratch, what's better for the overflow, to return through the back wall or to run it through the bottom?

Robert1845

Yes. In two layers. A total of 20 mm. You can also use 10 mm. I consider it a reasonable price.

Debra6575

I also had days when I wanted to order a new and larger aquarium, but in the end, I made do with the one I had. As for the sump, mine is short (600mm); if I were to build it now, I would make it 900mm long, 300mm wide, and 400mm high.

Randy

At the back, at the top. If it's at the bottom, then when the pump stops, all 450 liters will spill into the sump. It's unlikely it will hold that much, and the aquarium looks somehow ... unappealing without water.

Elizabeth882

Yes, I will. I have a 27 sq.m. room that is still unused - although it's on the second floor - once I master all the tricks, I will be collecting about 2000 liters. Or several of 1000 each. Better 50 - the lamps don't hang too close to the mirror. Sump is often not enough. Ideally, the sump should be at least the volume of the display aquarium.

Brenda

You can certainly go with 50 in height... I drew a sketch of the pedestal. 40x20 profile, the left post between the two doors is removable. What's better, just a platform and a couple of bolts for fixation?

Rachael

Well, I can basically manage to get it done in a month, but it's better to stretch it out over two. And I want to get more out of it ;-)... Anyway, almost everything needs to be changed. For now, I'm calculating what this will amount to. Well, it's not just a hole down, but a glass to the bottom with a tube in it, although I think there will be a lot of detritus collecting at the bottom of the glass... I understood about the 10. Of course, it will be cheaper that way.

Troy8808

And why such complications?

Alexandra

It's not needed there at all - it will only get in the way - when you work in the sample. For such a length... it's like a grenade to a hedgehog - the tabletop in such cases works like a "beam with three clamped ends." If you place a support under the free end, it will have four clamped ends.

Kyle

The main thing is that the "beam" holds up, without bending the tabletop and the pipe underneath it. Actually, the support is removable. One more question - how many legs? 6 or 8? I've read a lot.

Patrick4439

I don't have any - the floors are even. And the frame base is a 50x50 pipe. It doesn't interfere, but I agree with you. The frame + top plate 32 mm will hold a ton. ....................... So, from which side will the drain be? You need to place the sump on that side. It's better to position the drain pipe vertically. The supply can be placed however you like. If the cabinet will be in the corner, then the pocket should also be in that corner - it's less visible.

Stephanie4990

drain on the left, sump on the left. Got it ;-) I'm also thinking about the corner one, but then it's more location-dependent, it's harder with the light, and it's more difficult to glue... I'm wondering if I should take the risk and glue it myself... I'm scared. Yes, should I drill a hole for the return too, or throw it over the edge?

Stefanie9771

Four.

Anne4851

There are special overflows over the edge - the same Vitala Nox does them. But if there is a possibility, it's better to do a Durso and an emergency overflow. I didn't do the emergency overflow - I regret it now, but not in terms of emergencies - rather in terms of finer tuning of the Durso. Ah, I see - return over the edge.

Elizabeth1221

It's better to drill. It's more aesthetically pleasing. The work will take about five minutes.

Michelle13

Yes, I will immediately order either an aquarium or glass with holes. Where can I read clearly about this Durso? In general, permission is granted. We will make a new aquarium. 150x50x50? 170 - the length of the lamps is concerning, for 150 you can put 80W. Now I need to list freshwater fish for sale. Will this sand be suitable, or should it be finer? Quartz probably won't work?

David2398

Sanya, make the width 60 cm. You won't regret it. There are many stones in the sea - it will provide more perspective and space for laying the stones - I have 60 cm - it's just right.

Chad231

Isn't that a bit much? What if the laminate gets damaged? It will weigh about 800-900 kilograms.

Shelby3182

By the way, here is an option with a glass down to the bottom. Is it unnecessary? It's just that there is no tube at the back and no gap between the aquarium and the wall. Will only MH penetrate to a depth of 70? I understand that T5 is preferable for more even lighting, or is it not worth the hassle? Sorry, if you're going to do it, do it to the max... ;-) There will be so many cool fish later...

Amber9312

I have it on the laminate.

Gregory

Well, it's not that simple here; I have 35mm foam insulation on my floor, with a 5-10cm screed on top of it, and then laminate. I still wanted to relieve the load. I have another question: where do you drain the wastewater during replacement? You can't just pour it on the ground; it will create a saline spot. If you put it in a pit or septic tank, you'll kill the bacteria and the soil will become saline. Where do you dispose of the drain? Or will 400 liters not affect a pit that holds 3-5 tons of wastewater? The truth is, it's expensive to haul it away...

Christopher3770

What are you planning to unload??? It's a normal pie. My aquarium is on an EPP-35 - 2 cm thick - it hasn't sunk anywhere. The legs are not pointy, but have a larger area - check out my photos to see how I set them up. I pour into the septic tank - and it doesn't affect it at all - the bacteria mainly fear chlorine - read my article about it - and you won't be draining 400 liters a month - but only 10% of the system's volume - if that equals 400 liters - then you'll be draining 40 - once a month. I don't even do such water changes.

Jennifer7159

By the way, I wanted to ask about the base for the aquarium. Is it 35 foam? 20? Do I need to make braces or diagonal supports in the frame?

Leah

Yes. When I tested it in fresh water, I used keramite - didn't like it - it squeezed out a bit. Extruded Polystyrene 35 density should be laid - at least 20 mm. Not Polystyrene (PSB) 35, but exactly what I mentioned above. It's commonly known as "colored-blue-green-Technonikol." Sanya - did you forget everything after you moved from SD? Triangles! That's the right technological approach.

Joseph6461

You will definitely want them - the gestures, I mean - there are two paths: either KR or Balling. And in general, calcium-magnesium is needed by everyone - at least you will definitely have strombus.

Timothy

What is Balling? Well, you can always add a reactor in Samp, but what criteria does it automatically include?

Tasha

In general, I have decided on the dimensions, 180x60x60 - gross 645 liters. Now I need to calculate the sump for it, or will the dimensions fit? As I understand, the inlet is 1" and the return is 3/4"? How much sand do I need now?

Matthew1280

You can increase the length. Inlet 1/2", outlet 1". Add trace elements and calcium/magnesium to the aquarium. A special controller is installed, similar to those used for fertilizer dosing, but with peristaltic pumps.

Joe

Trace elements are not added using the reactor; either pour by hand or ... use a dosing controller.

Nicholas5194

which ones exactly? all "60" "wonderful" elements that are contained blah-blah, it's better not to pour than to pour without understanding what and in what proportions you are adding and what initial concentration you have, that's it in two words.

John3187

What trace elements are you referring to? The calcium reactor not only provides magnesium and calcium, but also everything that is in the media - conditionally coral gravel - so the calcium reactor releases into the aquarium everything the reef needs by dissolving the former reef in the media inside the calcium reactor and transferring all of it to the aquarium. When using the balling method, you add one specific chemical element, and this does not eliminate the need to add trace elements.

Amy9618

Who said that? Either this way: Or this way: The first way is more complicated and, in fact, not cheaper, considering that some reagents cost more than a thousand for 100 grams, so the optimal one is the second.

Derek7322

I said that! Calcium separately! Magnesium separately! And so on! What’s next? Salt-without-salt? Where are the "traces" you mentioned? I can list the main components that are added using traces, and this should not be confused with baling at all. Classic baling will not provide zinc, nickel, molybdenum, etc. - they need to be added separately - precisely with those very traces. However, by dissolving the KR filler with CO2, these elements can be replenished, or they may not be.

John3165

Did you check the links I provided? I won't argue whether it's classic balling or not, but there are a lot of elements, no less than in the JBL trio. And besides that, people don't add anything else. The results are in the photo. Here's another example for you:

Joseph8842

I almost understood how the reactor works... I should find some drawings, I have a 1.2-meter 90mm acrylic pipe - it can be done. I saw Logan's version, it's clear that you need to know the details, but it seems to be a repeatable design.

Chad9037

The reactor also needs a CO2 cylinder, a pressure regulator, a fine adjustment valve, an electromagnetic valve, and a pH controller.

Alec9378

Well, you asked - I answered - who said that? I said it! One element added or a complex - what’s the difference? It all depends on the number of drippers and what to pour into them. Well, I’ll pour traces into the drippers now - three of them, and let them drip together with KR - is that going to be my balling??? For now, there are two options: either drip separate reagents calcium-magnesium or obtain it using KR. Traces are just traces - KR can provide additional micronutrients (along the way, so to speak) as a bonus, and there are no problems with raising KH - balling cannot do that.

Sarah5423

Why raise it? Another calcium mixer .................. Personally, I prefer balling. Especially since you can buy a controller for it at a low price. And there's no risk of crashing the pH, which is more serious than low kH.

Martha

Well, that's just the thing - why not?! How do you think pH is affected by KH? When my KH was 18, my pH was stuck at 8.10. But dripping glucose into the IV... it's very real, or the controller might glitch - poor Sanya, he ruined his aquarium... in a day... although vodka was pouring in, but the principle is the same. I wouldn't risk getting a cheaper controller for balling. Only calcium flows out of it, and it also counteracts the pH. Where are the traces?

Gregory

Yes, we are just spamming. The start topic seems to be okay with it.

Mario

As for me, I haven't noticed any problems with lower levels or any other similar issues in this topic. The question is trivial: "who will win - the hedgehog or the rabbit" - "what's better, baling or CR" "Does tracing flow from baling or not?" Whatever you pour in is what will accumulate there. Sanya, you will decide for yourself later what you prefer. For now, think about the aquarium itself, the sump, the light, and the skimmer.

Kristin

This is more of a philosophical question...

Joyce

I was just about to sell it ;-) I have it in my herb garden.

Diana8604

Let's get back to the sample. Are the drawings you posted suitable for me? Do I need to enlarge or reduce anything?

Jessica

Why do you need to reduce anything? If the given sample fits into the frame cabinet, follow the drawings and don't struggle. The larger the sample, the greater the volume. The greater the volume, the larger the system's capacity. The larger the system's capacity, the more stable it is.

John5528

I fully support it.

Kimberly

If the dimensions allow, increase the width of the sump and the length of the algae scrubber. And it's probably time to think about a skimmer, as the second compartment on the right is for it. That is, the compartment was made for a specific skimmer. I quickly sketched this out:

Kimberly3727

I don't know what kind of penny it is yet. Only expensive ones are left for the arowana. Is there anything interesting here? Where should I put the ring reactor? And where can I make the frag tank, if needed? What thickness of glass is needed for this sump?

Mary

Wherever you want - you can go to the samp (through the wet) - there is a spot in the tomb next to the samp (through the dry). After the flotator. I have a ski - Seryoga gave you the scheme "copy from him" - 6.

Kevin262

Can I see a photo of the setup? I don't quite understand the left side, what's there and where. How is the auto top-off implemented? Is the osmosis supplied from the filter or is there a reserve in the sump? I'm thinking about the lighting. Should I make it with LED? What do you think? How many lumens are needed?

Jeanne

The ice lamp will cost you a reasonable amount of money. In my opinion, you need a pen with a pump OR3500. You should have pens for your system. I don't know the prices; you need to ask him. Here are a couple I provided. Check the other models here: Of course, you can also look at other sellers.

Debra8438

It's not by lumens there.

Melissa3820

I was looking at the price list and all that. It's a bit expensive, even if we forget about the Chinese products. You can get serial products on eBay for the same price, and judging by the reviews, homemade ones have some manufacturing issues. I'm digging through eBay. It might be easier to choose something in Hong Kong. Here's an interesting seller.

Jennifer9100

Questions about lighting. T5 only or should I take with MH? How much light is needed? There are interesting offers on LEDs, but it's unclear how much power or lumens. Should I look for the full 180 cm length, or take 150 cm and have areas with different brightness?

Megan

So, I have a couple of questions about the aquarium. Should the bottom be made of two 10mm sheets or can I just use ribs and braces for the bottom? Should the walls be 10mm or 12mm? According to the book, it's 10mm, but based on Morozov's calculations, it's 12mm. For the frame, will 40x20 pipes be sufficient, or should I use something stronger?

Elizabeth

In terms of the sample - except for the edges of the overflow - are the rest just polished?

Sheila

I read your thread about Samp, now it's clearer. At the same time, it's also clear with the sand, stones, and return. Are you satisfied with the pen?

Brooke

I think it's better to take 40x25. As I understand, you settled on a 600L aquarium. None of the skimmers from the seller you mentioned are suitable for your volume. You need a skimmer with a pump of at least 3000L/h.

Scott8536

600-800 liters, not one thousand euros. Corals and a Chinese skimmer??? Maybe then really a maximum of 240 liters? And the sump is made after the dimensions of the skimmer are known, while some make the sump specifically for the skimmer. Deltec, ATI, this is the minimum, but most likely it will be insufficient and better. Or similar reef octopus... Therefore, first decide on the skimmer, its dimensions, and then you can worry about the sump. Homemade LEDs will be more expensive than San-San (T5 or T5+MG), but possibly cheaper than ATI and Gizman.

Jesse3979

And if you decided or need to change the skimmer, should you also change the sump? And why can't a Chinese skimmer work in an aquarium with many corals? And who said it can't be replaced with another one later? I still dream about my first Chinese skimmer from Nox - it produced such sludge that the other one is nothing compared to it - the other question is that it's big and noisy, but it worked like a beast and 1500.

Jeremy3637

Sergio has a penny and nothing else. The corals worth many thousands of currency units will take two or three years to accumulate. First, we need to gather those thousands; it's difficult to save up for the equipment here.

Lindsey3362

Everyone is different; I was waiting for the launch from June 2010 (when I started buying equipment) until November 2011 because I didn't have that amount of money right away, and my wife would probably have turned me into a meatball with an aquarium if I had invested such a sum into the system all at once. Some people acquire all the devices literally in a month.

Alexandra

This does not mean that it "pulls" that system. Large systems have a greater margin of safety than small ones; they may work for a week, two, or even a month without a foam generator. I had a similar one, about 200 liters - it will work, more than that is not its capacity. From what I have read, the width of the foam generator is 90-110 mm for up to 200 liters, 150 mm for 300-400 liters, and 200 mm and more for over 500 liters. You can save on many things, but when it comes to large volumes, it's better not to skimp on the foam generator - it's not cost-effective.

Phillip9722

I made some improvements (drilled the air intake hole, installed a muffler from ) and now I'm completely satisfied. The glass in the sump (except for two sides) is unpolished.

Heather6148

Okay, let's sort out the rest for now. Aquarium - composite bottom - just two sheets glued edge to edge? Should I cover it with something? Will the braces and ribs be enough, or should I glue a double bottom? According to the table in the book "Reef Aquarium," it says that for lengths up to 2m, with ribs and braces, you can use 9mm. Is 10mm enough for me? Or should I go with 12mm? Regarding the sump, what do you think about it? Is it worth making it out of acrylic, or is glass cheaper? Should I make a labyrinth overflow, or is a Durso simpler?

Jacob7201

The door is double-layered. One layer consists of two pieces, the other of three, so the seams are overlapped. The thickness of the glass is 10 mm. The side glasses are 12 mm. There are two ribs and one tie in the middle. Your dimensions are slightly larger, so it's worth installing two ties. Silicate is cheaper. Durso. Simple and inexpensive. It is quite easy to adjust.

Chelsea567

I'm sorry, but it seems that you don't live in Kyiv; you probably live in Kobylyaky. There are so many successful sailors in Kyiv; visit one or another, talk in person, see them, and all problems will be solved on the spot. A forum is one thing, but live communication with a visual aid is more important. Everything else is just chatter.

Bridget

Redesigned the cabinet. The countertop is 1.8 by 0.6, 24mm particle board. The left compartment for the sump is 1.125x0.495x0.7 (maximum size), and the right compartment is 0.515x0.495x0.7. It's unfortunate that it didn't turn out to be 0.5, but I don't see the point in extending it. It's easier to make the sump 45-48cm.

William1830

Sanya, a special height in the samp is unnecessary. Don't forget that there will be a light fixture above it.

Debra6575

, the sample according to your drawings. 70 cm height is not the sample, it's the size of the compartment in the cabinet. We need to make sure the foam piece fits as well. , Well, I really live in the suburbs, in Stoyanka. And I'm short on time, especially in the evenings. The forum is more convenient. Just answers generate new questions. I also perceive printed text better. And among the sailors, I only know Valera, but she deals with nano-sea.

Natasha

Of course, in terms of "to what" - the samp has a height, and many of the foamers are also not short, plus if suddenly we need to fit something into the samp... it will be no less than 50 cm.

Amber9312

I'm just considering whether to make the cabinet 85 cm or raise it. That's just my size, a cabinet with a height of one meter. But how will I dive into the aquarium then?

Timothy

On the stool with feet and into the aquarium.

Selena4467

Don't worry, the height is fine, and I have aquariums at that height, as do many sailors with a meter height. A 1-meter height for the stand is the best; trust me, the aquarium looks much better than on a stand that's 85 cm high, and there will be more space inside the stand. Plus, you don't need to dive into the aquarium; there are small steps.

Joseph6461

Well, there's never too much space in the cabinet. I have a small stand. I'm just wondering if it will be too high. We'll see on site. Right now, the herb stand is on an 80cm cabinet, it seems fine.

Jesse

I speak as best as I can, the decision is yours, and if you make the wrong choice, you will regret it. As for the herbarium, I have an aquarium that is 70 cm tall (complete nonsense). The eyes of someone looking at the reef should not be focused on the surface of the aquarium water, but rather on the middle of the reef or slightly above it; then the entire effect of the reef is visible.

Carrie1606

When looking at a reef aquarium from above, the sense of depth decreases sharply, especially if you slightly change the angle of view, and suddenly your gaze is fixed on the light fixture and the top edge of the aquarium (which is neither here nor there).

Shelby3182

I am still convinced that a stand of at least 95 cm and a maximum of 105 cm is an excellent solution. Even when you sit and look at the aquarium that is on a 1-meter stand, your eyes are looking at the reef just above the bottom, creating the effect of the power of the reef above you. This is strength.

Alec9378

I’m not arguing. The main thing is not to forget about the legs, as they also have their height, and not all floors are perfectly even. In my case, I had to almost completely adjust the back legs and level them with the front ones, which resulted in 120, with a cabinet height of 110 cm, plus the material of the countertop, which also has thickness.

Rebecca1419

That's about right - take a look at what special stool I bought to get into the aquarium with my legs.

Kevin8087

Sanya - I fully agree with Anatoly 100%.

Frederick

Yes, I already understood, we will make a meter, plus some legs... the main thing is not to block the outlets with the beam. As for the ladder... I have one - full extension of 4.5 meters. But we can use a step ladder to make it up to 2.2 ;-) - What do you say about the foam gun? Should I get a pump for it at 220, and will it work? Or are there other options?

Jeffery7866

of course it will work, but only for about 200-300 liters nak-7 is better, it can handle 300-400, well 500 without fish ... if you're looking at Chinese products, you can confidently divide the recommended volume by 1.5 times, sometimes even by 2

Kimberly3727

Sanya, I have a cabinet that is 106 cm tall. It's a bit of a hassle to service from a stool, but looking at the reef is a real pleasure.

Zoe7451

Well said... it's exactly the POWER... it's when you approach the aquarium, and it's not somewhere down below, and you look at it without turning your head, because it's "nano," "mini," but in this case, it's a spacious aquarium that seems to engulf you from above, the left, and the right, as if you are actually there, and to see everything, you turn your head right and left, up and down, like when you dive in the Red Sea... The truth is that such an effect is achievable only when the aquarium is not only set up correctly but also has a volume of at least 300 liters.

Lindsey3628

I agree with my previous colleagues, but I still can't get used to it - the cabinets are 96 cm, but everything feels a bit too high. If it were 10-15 cm lower, it would feel just right for me. However, I notice ONE, but very significant advantage - I go into the aquarium less often (too lazy to carry the ladder).

Martha

I have an osmosis system for home, for the family. Crystal, from China. We regularly use it for household needs, and I take it to my parents. But I'm afraid it won't handle an aquarium either. There's a possibility to install a second one in the basement. Is it worth it? Which membrane is better to use, or are they all roughly the same?

Jeffery7866

After the osmosis membrane, you place a flask with ion exchange resin, and it will be great. The resin is of the Dowex 50 type. The TDS should ideally be equal to 0 after the resin. I have two flasks with resin standing after the osmosis membrane. Why buy another setup? In my opinion, it's unnecessary expenses.

Patricia

Sanya, the membrane does not retain silicates, which leads to a diatom bloom, which is why they install a post-treatment with composite (anion exchange + cation exchange) resin. Remove the carbon AFTER the membrane, it "leaks" phosphates, which is also not good for the marine aquarium. Your setup is sufficient; I have a similar one at home that services a freshwater and marine aquarium (with post-treatment, of course).

Charles

Seryoga - if the TDS shows 0.00, then there is nothing but "water" in the water, no salts, no bases. Sanya - you don't need another unit, check the TDS, and if necessary, change the membrane.

Alexandra

The thing is, I don't live in a private house. The water is not sourced from a well. It is supplied from the Dnipro, as the water from Inhul is not potable.

Tracey

So, does that mean to add "Dowex 50 type resin" and remove the carbon after the membrane? Should we do the same for drinking water?

Larry9400

Not necessarily. Drinking water can be used without further purification and passed through charcoal.

Keith7534

I downloaded "reef aquarium," but reading a scan from the screen is tedious. I'm translating it into an e-book. Or maybe someone has come across it in a format for e-books, not scans?

Ronald

Oh dear. I should have bought the original.

Kenneth7210

I haven't seen it for sale.

Rodney

Post an ad on the forum. That's how I bought it.

Brent8919

Well, I'll read for now, and if I need it as a reference, I'll buy it. It's also inconvenient to carry a paper book on the road. I bought a Kindle, it can hold half a library. I also found Nick Deakin's Marine Aquarium on Flubust. Just buying everything on the topic would be too expensive; I need to check if the book is worth it first. I have a few books on aquaristics from 1982-1989. They're terribly outdated, except for the animal reference, although it only covers the most basic species.

Mark7376

It can be printed on a color laser printer, if such an option is available, and then the sheets can be stitched together.

Marie5348

This is if you have a "ball" printer on hand. Printing at printing houses is more expensive than buying, and the quality of scans is raster, gray. The task is to have a mobile version of the book to read from a netbook or e-reader. The source has so many "extra" illustrations that eInk simply won't display them.

Steven7574

I can only say about this point that foam floats of different sizes and heights will be submerged to different depths; you need to refer to the instructions for the submersion areas of the foam float. For example, it was written to submerge at 280-330mm, with an optimal depth of 300mm, and I submerged it at 290mm.

Dawn6148

Oh damn... well, we can make the right wall of the camera not 23cm but 32cm, if needed we can raise the foam. Actually, I have the same size as Sergey, I will probably get the same hardware, there's no point in fighting it. Now I'll check on Fishstreet, if there's something more powerful, or for now a simple column and then for the AC250.

Brooke

This is the maximum. The minimum is just that the pump is underwater.

Michele

Maybe we should increase the immersion to 25cm? I see many fall into this range according to the skimmer - who to choose:

Stephen5841

Do 25 - you can always raise the skimmer. My first option was like an oil rig - on furniture legs plus 25 cm.

Julie

Let's sacrifice the osmotic reserve; what can we do? It's easier to add a container for it later. What do you think about this lamp?

Darrell5975

Here is a normal device.

Cheryl

The maximum power there is 6x54 watts. That will be a bit too little.

Melissa3200

3-4 pieces of GE25B - High Power might be enough, but if needed, we can add another 1-2.

Joshua3019

With delivery, it will reach up to 300 bucks. It will be quite expensive. Although it seems to have lamps... but still - not much light. What do you say about the skimmers?

Erin2730

Of course, it's not enough. You have 540 liters. 54W for 6 units will be insufficient. If it's 54W, you will need about 10 units. 2mg x 250W for 4 units of 54W, you can also consider other options for MH for yourself. In my opinion, it's better. I found in the price list: T5 6x80W 150x38x8 325EUR, T5 8x80W 150x48x8 450EUR. I'm not imposing anything, just suggesting which lamps to use and the length of the fixture (since your aquarium will be 1500 mm long).

Mario

or search for "odyssey on the net" - a bit better than sanity

Melissa2062

3 out of 4 are out of stock. SanSan on EM ballasts, as far as I can see. They heat up, are heavy, and with my fluctuations in the network, they are simply unacceptable. And all without lamps. On FishStreet, for the same money with delivery, there are a couple of 60cm or 90cm. With lamps. Length 180cm. I've seen the price. Expensive. It's unclear what ballasts are there. I will try to order glass for the sump tomorrow, so I can glue it before the New Year.

James8887

I provided links to the models, availability can be found, not now - maybe in February. A couple of things on Fish Street? Veypro LED up to 20 watts at most? ... Two "Aqua-Japan" 90 cm with delivery for 400 USD, here a San at 1.80 m on tubes for 270 USD - I don't quite understand what "cheaper" is being referred to. San-San and Odissea are the cheapest options you can buy for your sizes. That's it.

Diana8604

Listen, I'm worried that there's not enough space; I have 115 cm for the sump, and I can easily make it 110. I didn't make it to get the glass today because of traffic. Sixes will be enough for the walls, with all these braces? I think I'll make them out of threes, except for the shelf where the foam is. The funniest thing is that I have about 4 meters of fives in the garage, but there's no one to cut it... In general, I'll check the price for the glass, and if anything, I'll glue it during the holidays; I've already tackled 96 liters.

Cassandra7840

If you can't get 5-10 euros per liter (that's the minimum), then don't bother with 800 liters; go for 300-400, but do it properly, with good equipment and stocking... Have you seen the sump? Have you seen how much is there? Do you want to "squeeze" the partition and then fish out the glass and drain the sump? What's the point of this unreasonable saving?

Jennifer7159

Convinced, walls made of 8mm, shelves made of 6mm.

Catherine

Why use 8mm and especially for the sump? For example, I and many of my sailor friends have sumps made of 6mm glass, with partitions of 5mm. The size of the sump is 110cm x 50cm x 45cm in height, and nothing will break or crack. All the equipment is made of plastic, acrylic, and nylon, and even 12mm won't help if you're careless.

Christopher3770

I was not talking about the 8, but about the 3; it's even easy to break it with plastic. I have a sump from the 6, although it's twice as small, and the dividers from the 6 (glass, cutting, polishing (or grinding - whichever is cheaper?) of one edge) cost 45 (2 dividers, 2 ribs, two pieces of glass (I thought about using foam, but I put in something else)).

Debra8438

I also have thick partitions that need to be well polished - the thin ones too - then there will be a quiet overflow without jagged streams.

Ashley5975

I already received the glass. On one partition, they needed to polish the bottom edge, but they did the opposite and polished the perimeter instead, and they couldn't do the required part. In general, as always, everything is messed up. I bought silicone, Sedalovsky, I will glue it myself.

Thomas5021

Don't worry, everything will be fine even without polishing. Good luck with the sticking.

Nicholas

Yes, I will polish it by hand, it's a shimmering edge. I started gluing yesterday, laid it out... The squaw raised a fuss, interrupted my desire. Although I'm far from the aquarium and the stand, I need to sell the old one. Alright, I'll glue it later, it's easier to store it disassembled.

Brent7831

I can't seem to find it on Google, could you provide a link?

Alyssa6727

Another thorn in the ass. Backdrop. Of course, we could just stick on a blue background. Or we could print a gradient, depict the lightening of the water to the surface, or do something in the style of a Dzhevalevsky backdrop. What do you think? Should we put in the effort or just go with the blue?

Brandon4517

It will quickly become boring and is not natural; better to use a dark blue oracle, like, the depth of the sea won't be distracting.

Heather

great book, I highly recommend reading it.

Cynthia

the first link that comes up, you need to Google prices and delivery prices are at the level of san-san (sometimes a bit more expensive) but the quality is said to be better

Alyssa1438

I just suspect that the ballasts are for 110V, or is the electronics universal?

Cindy

I don't know, I only know that we work in Russia as well.

Judy

The height seems fine, 184 cm. As for the height, I don't even know. I think it will be around 90-100 cm. The tank is at 80 cm, which is normal; it's about eye level. The height is also needed for the equipment. Without a step-down transformer? That's good, it means there are electronic ballasts. I have another question. I have an uninterrupted line to the aquarium location. I don't think it's necessary to reserve the light. Should I connect the foam and return pump to the UPS?

Wendy

Questions or read, I don't know I have a UPS with a 7Ah battery - only my stream is powered, the return and the pen will drain it in half an hour. If you have a generator or large batteries, you can power everything if you want.

Sydney

It's all relative. I will have the edge of the aquarium at a height of 1.6 meters. You can't reach the bottom with your hand here. I have a 500W block for the boiler, and a 120Ah battery. A 70W motor will run for about 15 hours. Only if it's for the aquarium. I can set up a dedicated UPS and a 90-100Ah battery. The question is, is it necessary... Damn, today I discovered that some guys stole the generator from the shed. They must have a hernia for that, it's a 105kg piece of metal. On a positive note, I received 50kg of sand and 40kg of salt today. I bought the salt in bulk, two boxes at a discount. Regarding the skimmer - is there something decent to choose for 300-400 bucks?

Stephen

In the same situation... height 1.82... can't do it without a stool... I saw something like scissors, but with special grips at the end, about 40 centimeters long... maybe they'll help? Something like this, but without a lock. Tys.

Maria

Another big plus of high cabinets is that small children can't reach them. By the time they can reach, they will have grown up a bit and can be somewhat taught that they shouldn't climb there, only look. My godson, who is 1.5 years old, recently visited, and I thought I was going to have a heart attack; the cabinet is exactly 70 cm tall. I even saw someone on the forum with locks on their cabinet.

Patricia1746

You need to have a backup, but how and with what depends on how often and how long the power goes out. For 300 liters, you can get a Deltec MSE600, and for yours, starting from 18,000, the Octopus reef.

Brandy1134

I have locks on the cabinets. My daughter was not even a year old when the aquarium was set up.

Robert1845

Instead of locks, I used transparent scotch tape; if you don't show how it peels off/opens, it works for a long time and reliably! By the way, Delta has great prices here.

Stefanie9771

What to do? With a height of 60 cm, it's already difficult to reach the bottom of the aquarium with my hand.

Diana7891

The aquarium will be 180x60x60, with the sump dimensions of 110x40x50. The stand should be no lower than 80.

Jennifer5371

It will definitely sink. But it's easier here, I'm in charge of the budget. In terms of volume - since 240 liters isn't ideal, a height of 60 seems to make sense, with a depth of 60. As for the length - there's no point in anything less than 150, so it becomes 170-180. The lighting is the same here. 180 works well in the ratio of 3x60. That's how it turned out.

Kevin8087

I found a fat light - cheaper even than on eBay. It's expensive, of course, but you can gradually build up the system... And quite nicely... I need to figure it out, maybe I can make something similar with Cree, although 16 diodes at 15 bucks each is already 240 bucks, not including the housing and ballast.

Yvette209

LEDs that cost around 5 euros each, plus good optics for 2-2.5 euros each. You need about 5-6 modules plus a controller, 16 LEDs - 48 watts per module. In total, around 1.5-2k euros is quite reasonable, just a bit more expensive than San-San. You should buy a good pen instead.

Amy5468

I'm looking for a penlight. The Chinese ones have already been clarified. It should be enough for the time being, but later it will need an upgrade - another payment. For the LEDs, we can get something more powerful and expensive, not 3W but let's say 10W. Even at 8 bucks each - 130 bucks for the diodes, ballast, and housing - well, another 100 - 230 bucks. There are basically kits for several Maxspect modules - the kit is cheaper than buying individually. I really don't want to use MH. Here it looks nice and neat. The only alternative I see is T5, but only as a temporary solution. And we need at least 8*80W.

Leonard

From what I understand, the link you provided is for 300 baku, and it doesn't even include a power supply. Here are some more or less reliable experts. There is a topic about them on the logo. ... A DIY project will be cheaper, but you'll have to figure out the case; otherwise, everyone would just buy it instead of assembling it. ... As for what to install (MG, T5, or LED) - it's up to you to decide; I just wrote you an approximate price for LED lighting.

Debbie3587

In terms of the total, it's clear, I'm preparing ;-) the casing is not a big problem if you've dealt with outdoor advertising and small metal products. The only issue is that while I'm setting up the technology and appearance, it turns out to be very costly for 2-3 units. The power supply doesn't scare me; I have a place to connect it.

Nancy

Well, then you can take one for a trial. If it turns out to be crap, you'll have the coolest light in Samp.

Chad9037

Yes, it will be quite an expensive experiment. There is an alternative for Sampa - and if you're not in a hurry, they were $19 each.

Destiny

10 watts ???? Don't joke, you need 100 watts for your setup.

Elizabeth882

Well, first of all, the question is about lumens. And not all of the sample is filled with grass. We'll see. In any case, I think I'll repeat it, just not on the frying pan.

Aaron

Well, not 100, but definitely 30-50! You don't need to light up the entire sump, just the algae scrubber with the plants, and without the housing. The LEDs in the housings heat up enough and burn out. Off-topic: I had a 3-watt E14 lamp with 6500K on the algae scrubber for a month - the chaetomorpha didn't grow, but the sump got overrun with cyanobacteria, algae, and other types of weeds. I removed it and put back a 5-watt 6400K fluorescent light - the chaetomorpha isn't growing, but the sump is clean. I was planning to use LEDs of 10-15 watts there, but I've been thinking for a month whether it's worth it. These are slightly different LEDs, and of course, not 10 watts.

Kenneth7331

I'm already itching to order an aquarium or a stand, but I need to sell the freshwater fish first ;-)