-
The
Courtney4094
Let's go.
We need to put the ring in the bag.
Turn the skimmer with the pump towards the door - it's more convenient.
Everything else seems to be okay.
Heather9815
How do you put the bag on the ring? And what exactly will be the convenience if you turn the skimmer upside down?
Jennifer5784
Congratulations on the start!
Tiffany5069
With the new launch! And in the 3rd compartment of the SUMP - what device is that over the blue-and-white sponge? Is it a mixer? Further behind it, I see Eheim.
Dawn6148
No, these are fillers, just one was in a nylon stocking, it didn't sink. I already put it under the sponge.
Kimberly4253
Congratulations on the launch! All the best! Who made the lamp? What kind of lamp is in the sample? How many more kg of live rocks do you plan to buy? About 30-40 kg?
Crystal
I made the lamp, but I bought it used from the first owner. I ordered the aquarium and the stand from A. The lamp is from the SanSan sump; I don't know if it will be effective, as it has 16 watts. I also need to change the bulbs to a different spectrum. I don't know how many live rocks I need yet; I don't have enough funds for that, and I don't want too many. I would just like to close the mine and make a pyramid hill in the center.
Monica
Congratulations on the launch...
Omar3497
No way... just insert the osmotic tube inside... come in, I'll give it to you. It's easier to turn the tap and access to the pump is better.
Heather2018
I join in the congratulations! The mini-nemo (Resan) was fine, and I think the 390L will be great too! I will happily follow the developments.
David4089
under the actinics..
this is what knocks out the penny
Andrea8397
Does he hit like that from the start, or has the load increased? What is the backstory?
Jessica
Well, it doesn't happen in a day or two, of course... but in terms of color, it started working normally about a week after launch, and there were two clownfish.
Katie3017
Congratulations, well done. By the way, are the side walls of the aquarium mirrors?
Cynthia
With the start!
Laura3673
this is glass.
Emily
Offtopic, respect and admiration!
Aaron6112
Please take a photo of the aquarium under the MG.
Crystal4879
Okay, I'll do it during the day, but it's not great there. I removed the background yesterday, it was a hassle since it was stuck with double-sided tape, and there was a strong reflection. The fish weren't calming down at all, and there are still few stones... so now the wallpaper is acting as the background.
Christopher3770
Who can tell me when the growths on the sand should disappear? They are brown and bubble during the day. Is this still the maturation process or too much light? The light is on from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM with T5 actinics at 100 watts, and a 150W metal halide from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM, plus another 150W metal halide from 1:00 PM to 7:00 PM.
Jose
I join the question.
Russell8484
They all came off for about a week after a month, and then again...
Brandy
They went away on their own in about 2-3 weeks. Maybe the strombus and hermit crabs helped as well. Get a little dog, and then the growths on the glass and rocks will disappear too.
Zachary
There are five strombus and one hermit crab. A little dog of Salaris?
Robert5335
I'm going to get a dog - if you decide - let's order for both of us, like fellow countrymen?!
Patrick4439
Okay, it just looks to me like an edible little bull. A bicolor would look nicer, but in any case, the growths I have, she won't eat, they should go away on their own. If only there was a thread...
Noah1632
Ayrif had a whole pack of dogs in the last visit. Moreover, there were small dogs of the species Salarias fasciatus.
Barbara8192
You should get them - they are cool, they have a head like a human and make funny faces - I saw it at Turbik - I liked it.
Steven
My daughter loves this fish. It's all about its expressions. And it's a very quick fish - it appears out of nowhere and is always in the thick of things. It mows through the vegetation like a combine.
Aaron580
Bicolor is not a lawnmower; the main consumer of overgrowth is the algae-eating fish Salarias fasciatus, although sometimes they can be lazy too.
David3217
I know this. I'm in general.
Meghan
Here’s a photo for reference. There are hardly any fish left, just some crypts in the aquarium. I have an 18-watt UV lamp in one spot and I'm waiting for a 36-watt one to be sent by the super-fast online store Arowana. I'm really getting tired of their service. There's a skinny Helmon that still hasn't started eating and a yellow Zebrasoma that's covered in spots, I can't catch it. It's a shame about the clowns and the white-breasted one, of course. I want to close the shaft with stones, but I don't know how to do it properly. I tried placing stones only around it, but it doesn't look good. I guess I'll have to fill in the middle. I'm also thinking about throwing some broken pieces into the shaft itself to hide those white tubes. I'm planning to set up a KR, but I just can't seem to get my finances together.
Timothy
In one of the topics, I read about how to darken a shaft: from black (or any other color) acrylic, cut a piece to the size of the shaft walls and simply insert it tightly against the wall—it will hold due to water pressure and the "gluing" of the glasses... cheap and effective.
Kyle
On the logo, Morshnev or someone said that UV below 36 watts doesn't kill the stray ones. I think there can be an effect from UV. If the fish is healthy, the crypt shouldn't progress, UV will kill the strays, and the fish's immunity should kick in. Unfortunately, I have nowhere to separate the fish for treatment, even if I caught it.
Corey3201
I will take on the implementation.
Julie3950
There is also a point regarding the power; it all depends on the flow rate through the UV. If it is too fast, the UV simply won't have enough time to kill the bacteria.
Joseph2576
and I say the same thing..............the cysts will still be sitting in the sand, waiting for the fish to appear so that the strays can hatch..........
John
I have a pump that delivers 600 liters per hour. Regarding the Paragard, after using it, some of the Acropora frags started to lose their lower parts. The dosage was minimal. It might just be a coincidence.
Lindsey3362
Not the first time, but UV suppresses them - during a second pass, it will burn them completely. I have the same experience and have read and thought a lot about this, and I came to the conclusion I mentioned - when "the heat is on," it's too late to turn on the UV. Two Chrysipterus died, two Ocellaris survived, and the UV was turned on when the second fish was still holding on; after a day of UV operation, it was covered in spots.
Samuel6138
Odessa, it doesn't matter if it kills the strays, it means there will be fewer of them to catch fish, and do the old ones still leave the fish later or do they stay?
Kimberly3727
There are enough UV sterilizers for all forums. The power of the UV is selected based on the water circulation through it and, accordingly, the volume of the aquarium. For 300 liters, a 18-20W UV is needed with a water circulation through the sterilizer of 150-200 l/h. For 500 liters, a 36W with a circulation of 300-400 l/h. I haven't looked into other volumes. A UV of excessive power will only overheat the water and there is a risk of excessive ozonation of the water.
Brooke3987
Offtopic
There are quite a few online stores, I don't think it will be a problem to switch. In any case, I definitely won't be placing my next order for complete equipment for the new press like this.
Cassandra1840
It's a bit small. But getting a pancake from China three days later than from Arovana is a sign. Their logistics are really well organized.
Natasha
In my opinion, the cerianthus in the center looks very beautiful; it’s just a decoration for the whole aquarium. Why did you decide to sell it? What a beauty...
Kevin3579
I did everything the same after reading your topic. It didn't help.. my aquarium is younger..
Kathleen
This is because the aquarium is empty for now. I can't create a proper current with it. I want to put K, R and mainly keep SPS. I like them. The cerianthus doesn't like strong currents; it starts to bend.
Rick
So, make a three-sided box from acrylic for the shaft (it will be blue) - it looks fine - I've seen something similar on the logo. P.S. I sealed it inside with silicone, though black, but it will be inconvenient for you to do it, even if you dry the shaft. Similar things about 36W and more are mentioned by Lev Mironov, and it applies to any volume, but I understood this for "extra measures and treatment," not for permanent use; for continuous operation, yes, you need to match it by volume.
Jeremy3637
Can I ask you what these numbers are based on??? What is the calculation algorithm or is there just some logic behind it???!!!
Brandon4517
From browsing profiles and the most successful aquariums on Reef Central and other aquaforums. Several dozen aquariums. Moreover, I chose topics that are more than 2 years old, meaning the system owners are relatively experienced individuals. I spent a lot of time, but I also got many answers to my questions.
There isn't much to see or read on Reef Central, just a couple of dozen experienced people with stunning systems. However, people there are willing to share their achievements and, most importantly, their mistakes and attempts to correct them.
Mary
Yes, 36 and 55 include named during epidemics.
Natasha7622
It should also be taken into account that not all sterilizers are the same, even with the same lamp power. You cannot compare De Bary or Deltak with Atman and Resun. Everything is different: from the material of the tube and the quality of the lamps to the route and cross-section of the water passage. A good branded UV sterilizer can be twice as effective as a Chinese one with the same rating. However, it also costs five times more.
Paul
It's great... when I bought it, I looked at the amount of copper... There's also Exodin from Aquamedic, which seems to be copper-free as well, but it's weaker... I would gladly buy Siachem... P.S. I was also thinking of doing the same with my purchase, keeping the dose to a minimum and using a little bit... But the question is that a small dose might not kill the crypt, but rather develop immunity in it, which I also read, even on Reef Central... So, in fact, I won't be able to do anything with it... this is from Aquamedic... it might be different with Siachem...
Zachary
The instructions for Aquamedic clearly state - do not use in a reef. This is what I was shown. That's right! POintex should not be poured into a reef. Exodin can be used, it seems to be softer...
Darlene4238
Melinda2740
Did you buy anti-ash? It would be better to place the Montipora higher, where there is more light.
Charles5941
In about a year, when the corals grow, there will be an amazing reef.
Andrew4194
She was taller, she fell, and a couple more. I'll buy normal glue and stick it) anti-asses from Loginov. Cheerful fish.
Rebecca
I have a star like this. It has been living for about two months, and it doesn't seem to be damaging anything; the umbrellas and other things are in place. It crawls on glass, sand, and stones. I'm interested in its name and whether it is harmful; it doesn't seem to resemble an asterina in shape, color, or size.
Elizabeth6302
It's unclear what caused the nitrate to rise; what can be done to lower it? There is a macroalgae, but chaetomorpha is growing slowly in it, and the 18-watt light is weak. I added Prodibio Bio Digest, but I haven't noticed any effect yet. I want to buy a calcium reactor; which one is better for my volume? I see different prices, for example, $200 for one and $350 for another, or Aqua Medic Calcium Reactor KR1000 for $3100, Deltec, etc. Which one should I choose? And which pH controller is better?
Joseph2576
In the photo, there's an asterina. In photo 2 - a nudibranch! I don't know if it's dangerous or not. In any case, don't flush it down the toilet. I recently experienced a big problem with nitrates. They rose to 20, and some of the fish were in trouble. But that's my fault; I was without a skimmer for a month. Even when I set up the skimmer, the nitrates didn't go down. The cheatomorpha is also in the sump, just with about 50 watts of light. I reduced the nitrates with two 50-liter water changes. Everything has been fine for 3 weeks now.
Christina9947
Max, isn't it too big for the asterina? I have small ones, their rays seem to be a different shape. The nudibranch is in the sump, sitting in place. My acros have also started to wither due to nitrates; I think when I tried to treat the fish with Paragard, it affected the flora of the live rocks.
Marie5735
I have asteroids up to 0.7 cm in size. I might be mistaken, but it looks very much like an asteroid.
Make a substitution.
Lisa
Yes, I have a lot of starfish, although it seems like there are a bit fewer now... And how many limbs they have is not so important... They divide like that... I once saw one with up to 9 limbs... By the way, my starfish love to eat this coral (by the way, does anyone know what it's called????? Please let me know!)
Barbara
I have asters, they are three times smaller and of a different shape.
Bonnie
Cornularia sp.?
Cheryl9296
very similar, but it seems not quite right, mine grow like from dark red stone, porous (like all made of little tubes) and their color is closer to brown...
Julie4738
Tubipora
Susan9583
Oh! Exactly! It's a stone just like that! Mega! Thank you, Yarik, by the way, I couldn't take a photo of the shrimp for you today, sorry, I'll try again! So, my asterinas are eating the Tubipora! Radishes!
Mark9853
Clavularia sp., Briareum sp. Something like that) Oh, I see it's Tubipora.
Brooke
Tina
The photo with the anti-ass on disinfection is simply stunning!
Whitney
They often do this in the evenings, and they also puff out their gills for cleaning. Your clowns seem quite big and they have a pair, but they are all shy to settle in the anemone.
Christopher4108
Not used to it. Give it time, they should settle down. Especially when it comes to spawning.
Jessica5348
How to catch a mullet? It's annoying, causing sandstorms. You can't catch it at night, and during the day it disappears instantly when you try to catch it.
Marie5735
Which goby is being referred to? Usually, they don't even venture into traps. I caught all four of my formoz on a hook with a swallow bait. They no longer lived in the reef.
Larry9400
White-yellow tamarin (lemon)
Halichoeres leucoxanthus
Lemon meringue wrasse
Cynthia
A 3 or 4-liter bottle from a distillate at an auto parts store. I cut off the top cone, not all the way, to create a trap lid. There’s a small hole near the bottom on the side to feed the bait. After 3 days on the diet, everything gets caught!
There’s an amendment to Murphy's Law: all the fish except the one being hunted swim into the trap.
Andrea6761
I already created a topic like that once, try it, I caught the ones I wanted in 3 hours.
Amanda5586
Odessa, okay, because he is already annoying me. I tried with nets for half a day. Of course, I'm a fool for buying it; I asked if it was a wrasse, and they told me no, it's a labrid. Well, I thought maybe it's some fish I don't know, since it's neither a wrasse nor a tamarin, so everything should be fine. Then at home, I saw that labrids are indeed wrasses. After that, he started digging in the sand so much that I wanted to crush him with a stone; the drain bag gets clogged in a day.
Dana6523
Another option (I've heard, although I haven't done it myself) is to take a beer (a must!) - sit down 30 minutes before the lights go out and, accordingly, before the goby goes to sleep - you need to clearly see the spot where it buries itself for the night! Then, with a net and your hand, scoop up that piece of sand along with the goby. This method is more murky, but probably faster.
Vanessa6144
He burrows under the stone, I can't reach him. In the morning, there's a trap with a bottle, while everyone except him and the surgeons swims in. But he has already started to show interest.
Anthony4281
It happens. When I was catching a gram, the wrasse was getting fat in the bottle. But when I was catching the wrasse...
Laura3673
I finally caught a wrasse. I have a question about how much the walls should grow over a week in the aquarium. Mine are growing a lot, and I can't figure out if it's too much light or other reasons. However, my corals are turning brown, which indicates that there is not enough light. The light fixture is 2x150W plus 4x24W T5. The bulbs are Chinese, either 18K or 20K. Where can I find an LED light fixture, and what height does it require for the aquarium?
Heather
My hard corals have also turned brown, and it's not necessarily due to a lack of light, especially in your case. I was just monitoring this topic online and found three more or less clear reasons (besides "light"): too much iodine in the water, a lack of nutrients, and too many nitrates. I stopped adding iodine, bought coral food, and started feeding less—now I'm waiting for results...
Judy
In the absence of light, corals simply become bleached, meaning they turn whitish. The brown color is just a slight mismatch in the light spectrum. It indicates that the presence of zooxanthellae in the animal is normal. Obviously, it is the blue spectrum that is lacking, and as correctly noted, there is a deficiency of trace elements, and the water needs to be tested for nitrite, nitrate, and phosphorus; the latter can bind calcium ions, which becomes deficient for invertebrates.
Tracey
It seems that the blue spectrum is enough, two MH 20k lamps, and for T5 two actinics, one JBL Solar - pinkish color, and one Coral Star 10k. Where can I get tests for phosphorus?
Michele
What are they called? Try to find the RO4 test in an advanced pet store; if not, let them order it, as they are unfortunately not always available and are not cheap. It is clear that there are issues with the lighting, so wait for a while to see how things progress with the coloring, not forgetting about Mae and everything else.
Noah1632
I don't know whose the light bulbs are for sure, the box says coral reef, they cost 30-40 dollars.
Jeremy3637
It remains to be guessed...
Amber1273
Here is the test for RO4.
I personally use the RO4 test from RED SEA.
Melissa1838
There were plenty of them, "Mr. Dog" was near the South Market, I bought JBL there and there.
Jeffery7866
EEC. Maybe even Belgium. Mine are also MG-150W. Coral Arc Silvania, 60 euros each from there.
Jesse3979
I messed up, it's about phosphates, I have a JBL test, it's showing zero.
Stephanie3084
I started to tighten the skimmer, how much does everyone get from the skimmer in about three days? I see in the photos that everyone has dirty, brown foam, while mine is white. The skimmer has become dark. If I set it for dry foam, it doesn't reach the top at all. How often should I clean the skimmer, and do they clean the skimmer pump?
Kristen2246
It varies for me... The foam is also white, but the sludge collects a "tea color," unfortunately not "oil." If I set it up dry, I also don't have enough... As an option, the pump is weak and the "bulb formation" is weak... For example, my pump draws in water and air, and pulls it through the pipe into the foam collector, meaning there is "no brush," but I bought another skimmer (I wrote about it in my thread), and while I was testing it, it managed to produce foam from fresh water! However, I will only install it in a large aquarium where there will be a sump... P.S. I cleaned the pump in the skimmer, and it started working better, plus I clean the nozzle in the cup.
Christopher4108
The same thing - did the skimmer take from A or B????
Angel2396
Yes, they are the same for us and the samples.
John3187
You might not have anything to show him yet, the aquarium isn't loaded, but I have a bunch of fish.
Thomas5021
So try cleaning the pump and the cup tube from the inside. Even though I don't have an A, the pressure drops after a month - I clean the buildup on the pump and it works like new again. With the cup, it's different - almost every day, but I have a "Chinese" one and the cone there gets clogged quickly and doesn't want to tip into the cup.
Michael3221
I cleaned it an hour ago. I often wash the cup from the inside.
James8887
Aha - three boars and two ocelots are swimming - the ketayets were driving on two ocelots and the same soft tea - apparently, I'm modernizing Sanin's pen - I'll put a little valve for oxygen (where the silencer is).
Eric
Offtopic, why do you need a valve for air??? The more it "sucks," the better, no need to tighten it. Play with the drain.
Loretta5483
Offtopic Sania - don't take offense - I'm not discussing technical and engineering questions with you.
P.S. On the flotor, there is only one setting - "play with the drain."
P.P.S. The Chinese from Nox earned well then - when I achieved the adjustment of "bubble dispersion," which is a very important condition, no less than the air volume on the intake.
Nicole
When you improve it, let me know. If it gets better. Maybe we should send it for modernization? Or are our hands not in the right place? Look at Rifa, they have the same foam filter in the aquarium, and their aquarium is the same as mine, maybe theirs works better.
Lynn4242
Offtopic, why should I be offended? If you want, go ahead and play. Is dispersion about the size of the bubble? Then it relates to the impeller, it depends on it. I have gone through "games with foamers," but I haven't done anything to choke the air.
Lauren
Cover the drain of the frother a bit, the skim will become darker. I clean my cup every 4-5 days, and I soak the pump in vinegar once a month.
David953
Not much will be left of it in order. In this setup, it's not good to lower the level of the foam separator too much - the height of the column drops, which affects performance. On the other hand, the skimmed product is produced very well - it just turns out light, but a lot of impurities clump together in flakes.
He says it needs to be adjusted for "chafir" - I preferred "let it be light, more organic will go away," otherwise, during last night, the foam separator didn't produce anything at all - I washed the bowl yesterday.
I need to ask Sanya if he changes the "fluffy" for the "brush" - the fluffy works impulsively for some reason.
Derek7322
I have the same thing overnight. I can't say that it's really pushing the light. Do you mean to change the rotor in the pump?
Michael826
You don't need to change anything - I just set it to dry foam when it runs and calmed down. I just arrived and saw that there was a centimeter of specific gunk - it was just what had built up in the drain tube overnight and wasn't visible. In general, on my foam maker, I ended up with a clean foam level 2 cm above the cone, so what gets whipped then rises up into the bowl and is dry.
Anne
I haven't planted mine in the reef tank yet. It's been in quarantine for 140 liters. It was planted on the 18th of last month, and after sitting for about 15 days, it got sick with crypt. I added 4 caps of Para Guard, and the crypt was gone in a day. Now it's swimming cleanly in the same tank as the Hepatus, and both will be planted in the main aquarium in two weeks.
Spencer7805
I had a rash right after rearranging the stones, it seems to have gone away, but the hapatus has spots sometimes and sometimes not.
James
Many note this feature of the hip to crypt. In the same reef, the hip also swam with spots and even had an eye injury somewhere - Sanya didn't panic about it - he said, "It's a common thing - it will pass."
Rick
I know. It just bothers me a bit to see this.
Jason
Here is a somewhat battered overall plan for the story. The right slope will rise, there is no euphilia ahead anymore. I think in a couple of months they will gain color, as after the rearrangement and the jump in nitrates, some have flown away, some have left. For now, I am not removing the ones that have flown around; there are live areas that are recovering. Today I finally adjusted the wave, the storm is already in the aquarium. I am waiting for a new calcium reactor; everything else for it is already there.
Noah1632
Ohhhh!!! Now I understand your idea. I take my hat off to such a radical twist and creative thought!
- You’ll put Kr - keep an eye on KN, you read how I got caught.
Chelsea567
I will set it to the minimum right away, then I will increase the supply if there is consumption. And I need to constantly test the water. I just can't decide on the lighting, which one to buy. With T5, there are no bunnies in the water, and with MH, if I use 2x250 + T5, it will heat the water and consume a lot of electricity, and LEDs are expensive. It's a pity that our manufacturers don't offer complete lighting fixtures yet. In Russia, there are already craftsmen offering reasonable prices.
Martin3206
Uh-huh - and you already know what not to do with this...
Scott9892
I already have a collection of tests: SiaChem, Tetra, Sera, JBL, and now Salifert will be added.
Joshua8425
still beautiful! bright, light, and easy!
Jose
Less pessimism. You have a wonderful aquarium... Not every sailor can create one like this...
Alexander
I like how it turned out for you, there is plenty of room for coral growth, the only thing that needs to be figured out is how to seal the shaft if possible...
Adam
Odessa, just closed the pipes inside the mine with acrylic. Let it overgrow with Carolina.
Robert1845
I understand, I'm the same way. But what I wanted to say is that if there are shrimp of Lysmata amboinensis, it would be preferable to have three; the fish will be clean. Here are mine, even though there’s nothing on their bodies, however, in the evenings, when the twilight light comes, they all gather at the cleaning station: Halichoeres, Zebrasoma xanthurum, Paracanthurus hepatus. They all go under a huge sarcophagus, where the cleaners sit under the crown... They don’t clean them all at once - it’s done in order.
Adam
My Debelius was cleaning in the cave - for some reason, my Doctors are ignoring me, even though they really want to...
Christopher4108
Today the wavebox stopped working. I don't know what to do with it now.
Michelle104
Send it to NOX, let him see what's wrong with it. What's not working? Is the pump not expelling water? Or maybe the power supply has failed?
Cassandra1840
apparently the power supply, as the light on it does not blink
Gabrielle5053
It's interesting how the cyst determines the appearance of fish in the aquarium?
Ryan2281
How does the cholera vibrio, upon entering the human body, "recognize" that it is indeed a human and not, say, a horse, and begin its deadly activity? Over hundreds of millions of years of evolutionary development, species have adapted not only to recognize...
Paul
What's interesting is that everyone has cysts in their aquarium, and the fish swim around calmly without signs of crypto. But how does the cyst determine when it's time to reproduce, for example, when the fish's immunity is lowered and crypto is sitting on the fish, or when a new fish is introduced? How is this determined? That's what's astonishing.
Lauren
A pretty decent swamp and a stone minimum. What is that spiral wire in the middle of the aquarium?
Christine864
Cirrhipathes sp, Spiral Wire
Jennifer7159
If only everyone had such "swamps"!!! We would have already caught up with and surpassed the decaying West...
Jeffery
It seems a bit sparse for me with live rocks... it looks somewhat poor and meager in a 390-liter tank... And there’s no place to put the corals... But overall, it’s designed beautifully, easily, and brightly.
Kimberly4253
It's not a fact. The thing is that the interior is thoughtfully designed with the growth of corals in mind. Let's imagine that in a year or a year and a half, all the young corals and their fragments will increase in mass by 3-4 times. The picture will be just right. So, everything here is correct. All that remains is to carefully monitor the aquarium and nurture the corals.
George5104
I think that if we stop adding more fish and let the existing corals grow for a couple of years, it will look amazing. Looking at my aquarium, if I were to do it again, I would also create a "flat-hilly landscape" - it looks more natural that way. I wouldn't make mountains that reach the full height of the aquarium.
Mary
SPS corals will definitely start fighting when they grow; those with bright colors will be left, while the less vibrant ones will get fragmented. The only thing I don't like is that aiptasia constantly pops up on the live rocks, and it's hard to get rid of them. Propagating them has become a challenge with the SPS corals, and I'm thinking maybe I should place some kind of stone on them. I'm afraid to cut them because I've read they can be toxic. I don't like clownfish; they constantly dig in the sand and occasionally cover the fish when they do this. On the plus side, there are no stagnant zones, making it easier to clean the glass. The aquarium holds about 350 liters, or maybe a little less in the display. Ideally, I need a tank that holds a ton.
Bryan1851
Well, if the perspective is just to keep corals, then of course, it's complete freedom! It's really a matter of taste; I personally prefer a mixed reef, it feels more natural, plus the fish... Where would we be without them? But on the other hand, the more surfaces and "heights," the more corals can be placed.
Amber1273
There shouldn't be any pressure from that drop, and it seems to be quite small, so it won't weaken the seam. But if you want, find the thinnest silicone, dilute it with a solvent (water-based), and inject it there with a syringe... It might work... Or if you're really desperate, add a rib for stiffness at the bottom.
Jenny
I meant in all flat surfaces.
Michelle13
I had it filled with stones from bottom to top, and one day I took it all apart. Although when I look at the old photo, I liked it that way too. But there were many stagnant areas, and the fish had nowhere to swim.
Robert800
It won't flow) if anything, I'll treat you to German beer
Mixed is mixed, but for now I prefer it more mixed with fish. I'm just saying—it's a matter of taste, maybe in a year I'll like it that way too.
Wendy8540
Good aquascape. The corals are tastefully arranged.
Daniel9952
I don't like many fish; I like zebrasoma, forcipiger, and Achilles surgeonfish, but this fish is for large volumes and old aquariums.
Charles5941
Don't worry and forget it.
Emily3144
Off-topic, just so you know, and you owe me a beer.
Stephen5857
Oh yes... These are gorgeous fish!
Danielle9144
I read various forums about clowns and learned for the first time that they dig sand.
Crystal4879
Daniel
Ah, now it's clear! The goniopora needs to be placed on a higher rock. And the layer of sand doesn't seem very thick and looks fresh.
Debbie3587
It can be said that the statement that the more stones, the better, is not always true. From what I understood from the fragments, many corals do not die at all, but rather grow well.
Michelle1505
Well-organized in biological and artistic-design aspects jar... Well done.
Angel628
Does the red shrimp-turtle not play with the corals?
Destiny
No, should I? Everyone seems calm.
Catherine
I have read and heard more than once that they can nibble on corals... I really want these shrimp, a couple of them, they are beneficial, they are beautiful, and they clean fish.
David2398
Maybe others can, but Lismata amboinensis never can. (From personal observations).
Rachael
They don't clean fish as often as regular toras. And during the day, they are very rarely seen; they don't like light.
Elizabeth6302
It seems that Lysa Debelius was meant in the third photo. But I haven't encountered them touching corals.
Christopher4108
Yes, I meant the blood-red lisma, not the white one with a red stripe...
Chris
Today I started dosing Ultra Amino and Ultra Organic. I installed one T5 24k lamp in the fixture. I added dolomite from Fauna Marin to the substrate, and the pH in the reactor jumped up and is still holding at 9.4.
Anne
I have it too - just not to such an extent. Squeeze a drop - it will sour faster.
Frank7213
increased one bubble per second, while only 7.2
Lauren
I am saying - press the protocol - for a drop in 2 seconds - CO2 will accumulate more in the flask and acidify the water faster. Then you can return it to the previous position. In a day, I have already brought it down from 7.80 to 6.50. I set it to drop per second (not a CO bubble - but a drop).
Linda
I did just that, I wrote it incorrectly, I already have 6.7 on my controller, the cutoff is at 6.7.
Robin
it is from dolomite
at first it absorbs CO2 very strongly, after a day or two it stabilizes
John828
Not eating, this lasts for 3-4 days after being introduced to the reef. After that, it should show interest in stationary objects and start feeding... Problems are ahead, and it’s necessary to try to attract its attention with moving food right now. I remember we got ours to eat thanks to a feather duster worm and a sea moth. It’s good if there are colonies of sponges and tunicates in the aquarium. By the way, it may also show interest in some coral polyps. Additionally, microalgae are also part of its diet.
Jason
He has been in the reef for the second day. There are many sponges in the reef under the stones. For now, he pays no attention to them, gathering something else among the stones. Artemia doesn't take it; he approaches when I feed the crowd of fish but doesn't eat.
Lee
Where did you buy the Zankla? How much did it cost? He doesn't have any braids at all, which is not good. When Zhenya sent me the Zankla, he had a braid that was about 5 centimeters long. Well, let's hope it grows back.
Tami
He definitely hasn't adapted yet; for these fish, the process is long-term. But the fact that he is already showing interest in something is a good sign. And the presence of a sponge in the reef is excellent; in time, he will show interest in it. It's very encouraging that he swims with the group of fish to the feeding spot, which indicates that sooner or later he will start eating like all the other fish. I wish you good luck, and we look forward to the continuation of the successful saga called "Zankl." As for the fact that the flag has slightly decreased in size, it's not a big deal—it will grow.
Heather9815
I hope it will start eating food. It is already eating sponges. By the way, the braid is growing quickly.
Matthew
Beautiful thickets will come with time. Everyone should try something unexplored. For example, raising Helmon or Zankla. I had two Zankla. One never started eating and died after a month, the other began to eat and lived for 7 months, devouring all the beautiful umbrellas. After that, I don't want to keep any more of them, as Zankla turned out to be very expensive to feed. And they are very cheeky fish.
Adam4310
Lori4746
Tanya has already said.
Sara4035
I'll try to take it, but I think the mandarin won't switch to feed anyway. I just don't give so much feed that it reaches the bottom. As for the zankl, we'll see.
Andrew9246
My zankl first ate all the lips, then started taking frozen Artemia, I added a drop of garlic oil during defrosting to boost immunity. A great supplement is recommended - it makes sense to try it. And the idol is a most shameless beast - you'll find out soon, may God grant him health.
Nancy
All the attempts I had to get the zanklovs to eat the feed ended up in nothing... so I think it won't do without chemicals... The FM Ultra Food Energizer has a smell that somewhat resembles Sichemo's Entice, and in my opinion, it's even more pungent.
John3187
where was this advice before... just when Helmon was trying to fatten up...
Dawn6148
I'm curious about the fate of Zankl, how is he? Has he started eating? etc. Also, I'll ask once more: who bought Zankl?
Gabriel
Odessa doesn't take food, but has fattened up its lips. Timid, it hides in the corner under the aquarium. I got it from Zhenya.
Mike
Hello! What is the age of the clowns? How long have they been in this system?
Nancy758
I don't know their age, they seem to have been here since July, I don't remember exactly, I bought them from Yarik in Zaporizhzhia when they were already adults. But they started behaving like a pair about a month ago. Before that, they swam separately and fought, even though they were already big.
Heather9815
Congratulations, but now they need to be fed with something, right?
Paul
it's difficult
Christopher3770
Yeah, not cichlids after all.
If they grow, reserve about 4 pieces.
Amanda
will not grow without food and in a communal setting
Jeremy
Apparently, the nerves from the move were there. I told you they were spawning regularly.
Michael5242
The green cyanobacteria are getting annoying, it's increasing more and more. It's creeping onto the live rocks and corals. The sand is clean. I haven't added anything for the second week, yet it's still increasing. I'm adding Prodibio bacteria and Ultra Bak - zero effect. The new carbon and anti-phosphate have been sitting for a week. There are no phosphates, even measured with the test kit.
Beth3383
try using REMOVER, I had cyan but it was purple, so I applied it and it went away in 2 weeks.
Ryan
Odessa, creepy
Chris
Then take out both the coal and the antifos - you extinguish the ultra-bac with antifos, and I took out the coal.
And stop with the substitutions - at least for a month.
Kathryn514
Where does it say that it extinguishes ultra bac? Judging by the smell, it's glucose-vodka-vinegar.
Kristen1161
I will try to take it out.
Darrell5975
Don't worry - nothing bad will happen. For example, JBL explicitly states when using their products - don't add carbon more than 6 days a month - it binds many beneficial elements. Anti-phosphate is generally not something for regular use, as I've read from colleagues' experiences.
Tanner
I wonder if there will be only blue lamps, no lower than 15k, specifically two 15k, one 24k, the rest 20k, and actinics and blues, will the corals grow?
Nicholas5194
Zankl started catching dry JBL flakes.
Beth3383
my congratulations! Now my white-breasted one needs to follow the example of your zankala.
Angela
When I had the white-breasted one with wheels, it came to me and immediately ate everything. Soon there will be an attempt at Helmon number 3. The Aiptasia have become a nuisance. We just need another Helmon that eats them.
Melinda2740
Well, so far, I only have the algae eating from the stones... it seems to ignore other food... And Helmon-3 eats frozen food but ignores aiptasia.
Tasha
Maybe it's worth trying something else if there are one or two (as I understood) in the toilet? Wunder Manni, Auriga, Klein - there are quite good reviews about these butterflies in connection with eating Aptasia. I didn't put stones from the old aquarium because of these actinies, but decided to dry them.
Stephanie9175
wunderkind, perhaps. Do they really eat iptazias? And the helmons are in the toilet because they are Marchenkov's with wheels. Auriga is not for the reef, and Klein is also questionable...
Alyssa1438
Wunderwurm are eaten, but as they say, it's hit or miss - just like Helmon. I had a fostered Helmon, but that didn't save it, while some wheelers live quite normally for many. I will try to get myself a Kleina if possible, but I don't have an Aiptasia yet.
Kenneth7210
So, how's Zankl? Is he alive and well? Has he started eating? Or...
Sara
Zankl is eating, but not from me anymore. He started eating corals, and that's how he determined his fate. But he is still getting food. So, Zhenya's Zankl turned out to be fine.
Diana3118
I bought two Wunderwafers, and so far there are no results. One is sitting on return and the other on SPSE.
Stephanie9175
It's strange that you see them at all. Usually, they are nocturnal creatures, rarely seen during the day; they probably "sharpen" at night too. Wait, maybe they will start. Mine has begun to clean up a bit around her spot after molting.
Sandra7004
Perhaps at night they eat the iphtasias that you can't see. Wait, they will clean everything up. My one rarely comes out during the day. Sometimes I wonder: is she alive...
Brian7092
I saw it at A's store, probably yours? But it underwent a metamorphosis...............the price doubled! What’s that about? Maybe SANYA convinced him not to eat the corals, so he jacked up the price.
Brent7831
Odessa, not mine
Brianna
Who knows what to do if detritus keeps accumulating in SAMP? What are the consequences?
Amber
There may be an increase in nitrate levels, but what accumulates significantly?
Marie5735
Sufficient nitrates are accumulating, but there are none yet.
Megan
Just clean it with a pipe from time to time, and that's it.
Christopher4125
Tell me how, because the samp is usually almost at floor level...
Russell8484
big pear + tube.
Christopher1252
With this device, you can also collect planarians - post 113.
Heather
And what if you needed to pour the samp? A little scoop?
Brent8919
Fortunately, my samp is not very large, and getting it out, even with a small amount of water, won't be difficult. The pump option doesn't quite work either, because I need to buy the right pump... As for using a bulb... honestly, I can't really imagine that... it would be easier to just drain it and wash it in the bathtub.
Larry
Such a pump costs about 60 UAH (you can splurge a little).
Gregory
Maybe that's true, but there are no such prices in Germany (and it's not just about the money). Plus, I need to find a pump, otherwise it will be easier for me to drain all the water since I want to re-glue the walls in the sump anyway... it's just inconvenient...
Jerry
We are in someone else's topic. Indeed, it's somewhat awkward.
Timothy
People, that's exactly the topic... Don't get carried away, there's a private message.
Jacob7201
I make a mess with the pump. It's just inconvenient, and the dirt gathers again quickly. Especially around the little pump.
Alyssa6727
sorry, my fault
Christopher4108
I need more advice. I have a calcium reactor. It doesn't hold calcium and alkalinity. The corals consume it faster. One bubble of CO2 per second. A drop of water from the reactor every 2 seconds. To increase productivity, should I increase the flow rate at the output of the calcium reactor? I don't think there's any point in increasing CO2, as the pH is consistently 6.7 in the reactor, and the controller constantly shuts off the CO2 supply anyway. If I increase the flow rate, it seems to me that the solution will not be as concentrated.
Andrew4194
I have a reactor (Deltec-501, fully packed) that drips 3-4 drops per second. The calcium in the aquarium remains stable at 430-440.
Kristen1161
, and kh?
Mitchell3177
What is the connection here? My kH, which I measure once a quarter, fluctuates between 7.7 and 7.9. There was a case when calcium dropped to 320 and magnesium to 1150, yet the kH remained within the usual range. By the way, I keep the pH in the reactor at 6.4, and in the aquarium at 8.2 (plus/minus 0.1 at different times of the day).
Dawn6148
There is still a connection.
Increase the CO2 supply to the KR and significantly increase the flow. After a day, check the change in kN with a test and make the appropriate adjustments +/- CO2 flow.
Joshua3019
I bought a food-grade plastic barrel for mixing water with salt. It smells like plastic. Does it need to be washed with something special, or can I just rinse it with water and use it?
Kenneth7331
The barrel must be labeled for food liquids; otherwise, all the others are not good.
Brandon9634
written for food products, wash with soap and water
Michael
You can just wash it with water, the plastic smell will go away in 2-3 days, it's normal.
Michael
I fill the new barrels completely with water for a few days. Then I drain the water along with the smell. However, I definitely don't use soap for such matters.
Joseph6461
I don't see anything normal here. I don't know what kind of plastic this is, that the smell goes away in 2-3 days... it's all nonsense... it lasts forever, along with the chemicals... And it doesn't matter what's written on the barrel. You can't mix water for the reef in such stinky plastic containers. It's okay for fish. Personally, I mix water in buckets that used to hold "Tetra" salt, there’s no smell, and that means no harm...
Matthew
Oh, I wanted to do everything compactly, but now it seems I'll be looking for buckets.
Kathryn514
I will look for 40-liter water canisters... Or just canisters in general, some of them have a large neck that the pump will fit into. Or find a small barrel from something edible.
P.S.: The smell actually goes away if you start using it.
Christopher3770
I have 2 barrels for food, each 50 liters. The chemical smell has remained the same. The barrels are already 10 years old, and I've tried everything to clean them. It's impossible to completely eliminate the smell of polymer chemicals, which is why I abandoned them a long time ago when working with reef tanks, and I advise others to do the same; you can decide for yourselves...
Brooke
Well, I have 40-liter canisters—no hint of smell... It depends on the plastic. There are large tanks for water—they're fine, and there are small ones... But you need to avoid Chinese ones, etc. After all, the same buckets that held salt are also plastic...
Corey3201
I have a Dnipropetrovsk factory. The barrels are white, labeled "For food products." They are definitely made of plastic. That's why knowledgeable people recommend avoiding storing water in them whenever possible. Even disposable cups turned out to be very harmful; I recently watched a program about it on TV. By the way, the transparent plastic bottles in which drinking water is sold are also harmful, although the manufacturing companies swear that they are not.
Barbara
as they say: "we are the children of Chernobyl - what do we care about those microbes now"
Ryan1989
Off-topic: And for the "children of Zaporizhzhia," life is not sweet at all without the coke plant and agglomeration factory...
Jessica9188
Off-topic, and are we still talking about the light scent of plastic?
Courtney4094
Finally, the aquarium is leaving the green cyanobacteria, which harmlessly started with the coral plates.
Lindsey3362
Did this Red Slim Remover work? I have clusters of black lower organisms in my fish tank on the S.R.C. (dry reef rocks) and stones. Maybe I should try it; I've never used it before...
Chelsea567
Yes, it worked. The cyanobacteria are all gone, and there are fewer usual lower organisms.
Amber1273
Well, glory to Boyd Enterprises, Inc.! Sometimes there are sensible Americans.
Kimberly3727
Will this thing not kill the "good" bacteria, or does it work on a different principle?
Michael3221
This question is discussed in detail here, with examples of practical application in various aquariums. I would like to note in advance that the experience is mostly positive.
Brandy
Well, that's great! Have you turned on the penny yet?
Derek7322
not yet, I will make the replacement in the evening and turn on the foam maker
Guy
Get ready for the foam to come pouring out; you should pour it out immediately. Set the foam gun to "wet foam" and pour out what will come out of the gun. You might be able to push out 2-3 liters of water through the foam gun in 30 minutes.
Ricky9405
You can lift the siphon, thereby lowering the water level in it.
Vanessa
It's all good, I just pressed him.
Mike
It's strange, but I was told today that your phone is busy.
Julia
Odessa, is the call of the sea not letting you rest?
Tina
By the way, regarding the barrel, I mixed water in it, everything is fine.
Heather2018
And the photos before using the medication?
James4342
Пожалуйста, предоставьте текст для перевода.
Melissa
This morning I received Achilles. A beautiful fish, arrived in excellent condition, well-fed. I hope the typical problems associated with them will bypass him.
Chris
Yes, the fish is really beautiful, you are probably the only owner of Acanthurus achilles in Odessa.
Christopher
It seems there isn't any information on the forum; it would be interesting to know who lives in what volume and for how long.
Meghan
I read on a foreign website that Achilles needs at least 500 liters of aquarium water and a 50% water change with live rocks every six months; otherwise, the fish won't live longer than a year. It is also necessary to have a large swimming space; otherwise, the fish starts to get stressed.
Kathy
Odessa seems to live in 400 liters. The live rocks don't need to be changed; he needs the growths on them. There is an option to add them temporarily, but I think they shouldn't be changed.
Joseph6461
Where is Zankl?
Christopher4125
For about 2 years, I and an acquaintance have 1200 liters and 1000 liters. An additional N amount was purchased from us (iReef)... they live from 400 liters and up... there are enough eels. The fish are complex... very complex!
John3165
I once dreamed of it until I saw the price. But I talked to the seller, and he said that for the fish to be happy, it needs a lot of space, and preferably, others shouldn't encroach on its territory. It's also essential to provide a varied diet, as feeding it only frozen food can lead to intestinal problems. He also mentioned the growths on the rocks and even knows about something called a "sber," which he referred to as a kind of pheromone for fish.
Amber
Zankl started eating corals and was given away, but he got fat and settled in.
Frederick
Which ones did you touch?
Kayla7655
Favius and umbrellas
John828
Handsome... And the aquarium is just right. 390 liters, that's not 31...
Michelle5859
No, but we definitely have to measure ourselves.
Joseph2576
Can experts tell me if carpet anemones crawl? What are the chances that it will catch a fish?
Ronald
Large carpets, such as Stichodactyla haddoni, crawl. Sometimes they can cover the entire length of the aquarium in a day if they are not happy with something. Once they find a suitable spot, they anchor themselves with their foot in a crevice, and if everything is good, they sit in one place without any problems. Amphiprions readily settle in carpets, and they do not actively hunt the inhabitants of the aquarium, but if a fish accidentally gets caught under their stinging tentacles, it has zero chance of survival. Due to the powerful nematocysts, I would not advise a sailor to touch the carpet.
Mitchell3177
So the carpet is out of the question.
Bryan1851
How to say... I used to have one, and for quite a long time. But back then, there wasn't such a variety in the trade of fish and corals, and his neighbors were sun corals, as well as butterflyfish with the amphiprions melanopus or bicolor sitting in them.
Jacob4800
How is Achilles doing?
Jenny
great, swims clean and well-fed already
Stacy6866
And this is pleasing... maybe someday I will also be lucky enough to acquire this treasure. However, it is for sale.
Vanessa
INTERESTING what the difficulty is ..................
Cindy
In terms of nutrition, it easily gets sick. I didn't have power for two hours—the UV light wasn't working, and it immediately started to show signs of distress. I bought a gasoline generator for the aquarium right away. As I understood, the fish needs a varied diet. The fish itself is a very active swimmer; my aquarium is too small for it, that's obvious. When I got the fish, it was listed as 6-8 cm, but the actual size is like a real elephant. I hope that in a year or a year and a half, I will move into my own place and set up an aquarium there that weighs over a ton, because right now there's no space for a bigger one, otherwise the room will end up looking like a Thai's—just a room for the aquarium.
Todd8452
The price is quite off-putting. Plus, everywhere you read the description, it discourages you from parting with such an amount due to the risk. But the fish is very beautiful.
Caleb6320
Off-topic. No worries, credit and praise to those who are not deterred by the amounts!!! Only a true sailor goes for it, gaining experience regardless of everything... and it is priceless.
Jason
Daniel
Well, everything is growing wonderfully in the photos! As for the montiporas, if we're talking about the leafy ones, they are most likely being eaten by nudibranchs, so bathing is not very effective... They need to be removed one by one. Also, it's advisable to look for their eggs under a magnifying glass...
Frederick
They are the most naked gills. I take them off, and then sometimes in a day or two you don't notice, and they've already eaten the edges. Moreover, they not only eat the leaves, but also the digitata and another one there.
Andrea9320
There are three options:
1 - gradually collect and wait until they eat everything they love.
2 - throw out all the montis at once.
3 - the most complicated... you can try to save them... If there is a frag tank or any other free aquarium, transplant all the montis there and after a day catch the creatures and scrub the eggs with a toothbrush. The remaining creatures on the rocks in the main aquarium will die of starvation... but after a few months...
David3217
Beautiful... Did you change something in the additives? Or did I just imagine that the corals (especially the red ones) have lost a bit of color?
Tanner
There is no fraggot yet.. for now I'm filming them in general but I think it's pointless..
Leah
Ultra Amin and Ultra Organic Lyu supplements from Fauna Marin and Ultralife+Bak. I don't see any super effect; I didn't dose for a month, and the only thing is that the polyps on my SPS are coming out more. Overall, my SPS are struggling with colors; maybe the spectrum of the lamps is not suitable. The polyps are constantly brown. The red is as it was, just photos with different lamps.
Daniel132
the same
Hunter1471
Hmm... the light looks great, and I think it's at least 14k Kelvin... by the parameters, I think you also have everything in order... Maybe try changing the fertilizer? Or use a different set of feeds...
Anthony7814
The lighting in the photo seems fine, unless they have been burning for more than a year. Don't even think about changing the chemistry to another one; go and believe in it until the end, the effect doesn't come immediately, but over several months. For color brightness, you can use KZ Zeospur2, but that's a different chemistry.
Matthew
The spur rang three times - once every two weeks, some spsacropores do not react to it at all.
Kristen1161
I have a problem with the polyps themselves, not the color of the coral. The body of the coral is colorful, which is good. However, on some of my frags, the polyps have turned brown, while before they had a normal color.
Thomas5021
Why not? After all, each aquarium is individual... One thing works for one, another for another...
In general, you're right - choosing a color scheme is not a quick task... But as far as I understand, the corals seem to have faded a bit...
Andrew4194
How long have you had them? These acres, specifically?
Anne
Well, the tanks since September are definitely. Mostly those that are purple/pink. There were initially colorful polyps, then they faded and turned brown. I thought it was dirt, but I change 40 liters every one and a half weeks, everything is clean, and I hardly feed the fish.
David2398
It can't be, either the dose is wrong or you poured some crap instead of spur. I add 7ml for 1.4 tons every 1.5-2 months, as per KZ's recommendation, it's way too much to do it every two weeks, the corals don't recover that quickly. What do you mean by brown polyps? They are either white or light blue for everyone.
Stacey4437
Dana6523
There are a lot of blue lamps. According to theory and practice, for every two blue lamps, there should be one white, and you really lack white. You need to put at least two white lamps in the center and a couple of ATI actinics, and everything will be fine. And stop using spur until the corals gain color. I burned some corals, and now they are not recovering (your coral body is almost white, and this coral should be purple if I'm not mistaken). To use spur, you need a KZ set with a specific number of elements, but not Fauna.
Gabrielle5053
spur lilled three times, in small doses. that coral was immediately such a pale pink. it seems he overdid it with the blue lamps. Are the white ones 10k?
Tami
And also, yellow, light green, green, turquoise, pink, purple... and... did I get a bit carried away?
Hannah
I don't like it when there are a lot of white lights; right now out of 8, there are only two white ones, two actinics, and the rest are blue... Maybe we shouldn't add more white, but instead switch to actinics or one red (but that's a matter of taste).
Max, could you show a photo of those corals that burned after the spur, either in your thread or here, if you don't mind?
Steven757
, no one minds)
Laurie3842
Tanya, I personally agree with you on your point about the white lamps. Why? Observing the appearance of my soft coral and the part with LPS (9 species), I noticed that when illuminated with 8 lamps (5 blue, 1 purple, 2 white 15000K), the mushrooms were retracted, as were all the umbrellas, and half of the LPS were 50% expanded. I removed one white 15000K lamp, replaced it with a blue, and it was great; the mushrooms tripled in size, both in the diameter of the caps and in the stalks, and the LPS were fully open, with all the polyps longer and fluffier. That's where the essence was buried—just one light bulb.
David4968
Yes, I basically advised to use 8 T5s:
2 white
2 actinic
2 blue
2 royal blue
or you can replace one blue with purple; the choice of lamps is huge, so model it as you like.
I disagree with you; after all, he has an SPS tank, so let him set a couple of whites on a timer, and they will turn on like MH from 12:00 to 19:00.
However, after my observation, I am in favor of MH.
I found photos of the coral in my thread, showing how it was and how it has changed over time, and it’s not the only one; mostly wild ones, those that come from Aira respond well to spur.
Dana4701
I didn't really pay attention to the different colors.
Susan1358
What if there are 10 lamps? I just have 10 of them.
Stephanie3084
I would set it up like this:
3 white FAUNA
2 actinics ATI
2 blue FAUNA or Coral Light Superblue KORALLEN-ZUCHT
2 royal blue FAUNA
1 FIJI PURPLE KORALLEN-ZUCHT
it will result in super mega light.
Jose
By the way, I still haven't taken the Achilles out. Very delicate fish. A couple of times the power went out, and while I turned on the generator (10-20 minutes), it already started to shed a bit the next day. And it takes longer to acclimate than the same white-breasted one. As for food, it's clearly a fan of nori, almost ignoring other feed.
Gregory9432
I need urgent advice! How can I raise the pH? It has dropped significantly. It used to drop constantly as well, and I raised it with something from Siachem, but it didn't hold! This was before the KR, so we can rule out the option that the KR is lowering it.
Emily
You take the air hose of the foam generator outside, and the problem of low pH resolves itself.
Adrienne
I know that, but it's problematic to do. I have a hose routed outside the cabinet, and the window is even open right now.
Susan
Which pH exactly?
Martin3206
7.7 during the day
Amber
Press a drop on the KR - one per second. Reduce CO2 to 10 bubbles per minute.
Monica
And again, will Ksh fall with calcium?
Stephen
KH will not drop but will normalize to 6-7-8, calcium will increase, and pH will rise accordingly.
I already answered this question of yours in my thread about the specifics of the reactor - it has been shut down for two weeks on CO2, and yesterday calcium was 468 - KH 9 - pH 7.93 - Mg 1480.
Joshua8425
this reactor has annoyed me. what cannot be used as per the instructions
Sherri1320
Do you have instructions for it?! Why complain? I wrote about it - take it and use the info. It's a good thing, I started to like it - if only I had had such information at the very beginning of the installation - that would have been a miracle - but as it is, I paid money, got the device, and now I'm stuck with it - that's the truth. After which it either leaks from under the lid or from under the flange on the pump.
Rachel9060
So, out of 10 bulbs in the fixture, 5 were actinics. That's probably too much? I removed 3 actinics and replaced them with two 17,000 Kelvin Aqua Science Duo bulbs. One empty spot is waiting for a 10K bulb, and I left 2 actinics.
Nicholas2252
put more blue lamps. (Blue plus)
Tammy2040
And so the green cyano started to appear again. So far in two places - in one it is noticeably progressing. I didn't even notice the beginning - I saw a patch about 4x4 cm.
What could be the reason? I feed minimally. I haven't added any chemicals after using the last remover. I do 10% water changes every two weeks. There is carbon, there is Purigen. And it is specifically green cyano for the second time; this aquarium has not seen red.
Melissa2062
I think there are too many lights and too much white. For example, I have one white light for every two blue ones, and there are no signs of growth of lower greens. As per the law of freshwater aquarium maintenance, if there is too much light, the greens will overgrow, and if there is not enough, the browns will.
Emily3144
even on the glasses?
Charles4157
On the glass, there can be 4-6 cm from the surface, and only if I haven't had the time to attend to the aquarium for 4-5 days, but this happens very rarely, as the aquariums are always monitored. In a day, only on the back wall, and in some places, a light film closer to brownish appears; if it is not wiped, after 2-3 days it becomes clearly visible and harder to remove. The front species grows a little slower than the back one.
Danielle9144
Just like with me, in the samp the browns are on the main overflow, and in the aquarium, the greens are there.
- Did you pour Fauna-Organic? Because after it, my stones started to turn green, but not fatally, just moderately, and I had the same thing - normal, bright green, like cyan - so I generally reduced the Organic dose by three times.
Also, pay attention to how the foam maker works - I already changed the fuzzy one - it either blew a dud with poppy or created a terrible overflow.
And one more question, it's related to pH - what temperature is in the room where the aquarium is? Did you raise the pH?
Kenneth7331
The temperature is cool, I rarely open the windows during the day at home. After using the remover, I didn't add anything at all except for the ProDibio bacteria according to the dosage and UltraBac. Maybe the foam is not pulling the water, which one should I buy to fit in my sump? I raised the pH to 8.3 with pH buffer.
Jeremy3637
Maybe it's better to buy a fluffy one from A and replace it?
Brent5588
Why buy a pen if you then have to pay for something else to make it work properly?
Cheryl9296
There is coal, there is purigen, try to remove it.
Meghan
There is a concept called "consumables" - and 50 for a handful of fluffies is much less than the cost of a new pen. Or like in the old joke? A new car - the old ashtray is already full.
Lindsey3628
Why? Is it not affecting your skimmer? Many people experience cyanobacteria after changing lamps, especially with such drastic changes as you made. Off-topic, I replaced my 8-month-old old bulbs with new ones (that were lying around), and I have red cyanobacteria in three places, even though the "initial" phase has passed. Even "Royal" constantly upgrades their skimmers, whether it's the body or the pump.
Sarah5423
In short, it's said but true, I would add! Pour less of your own into the aquarium, don't sit it on... And notice! Those who don't mess with their aquariums don't "whine" later and don't know this hassle, and if small issues do occur, they are quickly resolved by the aquarium system itself, without you, and don't create topics like these. Cyanobacteria and algae - why? Help! Advise how to get rid of them! Etc. Let your aquariums handle things on their own at least once, give it time, don't rush, don't pour. It's a disaster.
Julie
I have a different perspective on this. I can plant soft plants and not add anything, but I pursue other goals, even though I rushed. And what exactly did I add? Amines-organic-in doses lower than recommended? I tried spur in much smaller amounts and that’s it. There was no purigen, no charcoal, the water was brown. This was about three months ago. And there was cyanobacteria. I’m not creating threads about filamentous algae and I’m not asking for help; if it bothers your vision, just don’t read it. I’m not interested in the philosophy of using or not using medications. I know perfectly well that this is green cyanobacteria; I’ve had none of it here and in excellent aquariums.
Todd
Sometimes you have to do this when you speak about what’s best, share your experiences and mistakes, but no one listens. When you speak with indifference, they listen and act. In the best aquariums, if there are issues, it’s usually the owner’s fault. They over-chemically treated it. I won’t argue, as everyone has their own worldview and understanding of the word "best." Off-topic: For one person, a woman weighing 150 kg is a model and the best, while for another, a 55 kg person is the ideal.
Whitney
Guys, have the Viridis been breeding for anyone? I will post photos and videos now.
Janet5447
Have they really multiplied? That's quite interesting!
Rachael
Yes! I am converting the video.
Spencer7805
The logo mentioned the spawning of chryseper, but so far it has not been possible to raise the fry.. it seems.
Natasha7622
attached photos
Mike
And SAMP for history? Show me what interesting things you have there?
Eric5208
In the samp, there's a mess and many things are out of place. I'm waiting for the auto refill from repair and a new UV lamp.
David2398
Please be so kind as to receive.
Stuart
What are those green corals in the 7th photo? I want some like that.
Jennifer
This is a Montipora SPS coral. I just took a photo above the water.
Dana4701
The green montia is really good! It's very interesting how Achilles adapted, the old-timers... crypto... nutrition...
Gene1948
Odessa rules!!!! The aquarium is great!!! Well done.
Hunter1471
Thank you. Of course, the corals still need to gain color; I'm currently completely replacing the lamp with ATI, and I think the results will be visible. By the way, I've encountered a problem: the zoanthids have started to die. The most interesting thing is that it's not from the pox, like when they get eaten, but something else. At first, I tried bathing them and treating them as if they had pox, but there was no effect. It's as if some sponge is affecting them.
Amy1672
I replied in a private message.
Brandy
The corals are awesome! That's what it means to be in the "south" of the country - two harvests in a season!
Try soaking the umbrellas in furazolidone or furacilin. A bath for about 5-10 minutes.
Frederick
Yeah, that's all our climate in the south. I’ve bathed more than once; I’m telling you, it’s not chickenpox... I mean, there are no spots like with parasites.
Todd
So you got him hooked on the nori... what did the seller feed him? Or was he not fattened up? And what kind of flakes did you give, fish-based or plant-based? They seem to be vegetarians...
Does cleaning the glass also cause the crypts to shed?
When I mentioned the old-timer, I meant the relationship between the fish, who was chasing whom when you added the achilles?
Sarah5423
I don't know about the seller, I got it almost on the fly for $300. By the way, my Achilles has chewed holes in the fan worm; at first, it was nibbling on the growths, and then it got into the taste. I had to throw the worm into the sump, or else pieces of it were falling off. The flakes are a mix of red and green. Cleaning also stresses them out; it might be due to the size of the aquarium. But in general, the fish are not skittish in behavior, they aren't even afraid of my hand. Among the long-timers, there was and still is a Hepatus, everything is peaceful with them. In general, I've had the Achilles since November. Did you get a Japanese one with the Achilles?
Danielle
Well, I'm not talking about her. Is the loss of coral similar to "green fine foam"?
Alejandro
It feels like foam, but not green, rather pale gray. I bathed and still bathe, it doesn't help.
Daniel
Strange. It was the "foam" that cured it. After the baths, I also removed the plate in SAMPA - there, the starfish, gammarids, and other scavengers worked on the dead parts. You can "force" the starfish onto the coral. In two to three days, they remove all the excess.
Natasha
Thank you for the detailed response! Achilles is at the guys' shop, I'm waiting for the Japanese guy again... he hasn't reached me yet... Without him, I can't take Achilles, otherwise I won't be able to get the Japanese guy later, the risk is too high... and for that kind of money, I don't want to take such a foolish risk...
Nicholas5194
There’s some issue with the calcium reactor... it’s getting airlocked and stops pushing water... this is without the CO2 supply turned on. I’ve already disassembled it, added more water, but it’s still bubbling a lot inside, there’s more and more air, and eventually it doesn’t have enough water level for circulation. Where should I look for the problem?
Aaron6112
1. Check the water input. I went through your entire topic but couldn't find your reactor.
Lindsay
I had the same issue; it seems that the sponge needs to be replaced/cleaned. I replaced it, and everything normalized. There is no proper water flow inside the KR. Also, check the KR for tightness.
Jose
Question for those who understand SPS. Some SPS have started hiding polyps, some acroporas and Montipora digitata. The parameters are normal, although recently the KH dropped a bit. Where to look for the problem?
Tanner
I read about a similar situation on one of the forums... The problem there turned out to be that they simply forgot about the salinity of the water... As an option, the light has changed (depending on how long the lamps have been working), there may be temperature fluctuations... Or it could be something else...
Erin
Ideally, I would like to see photos before and after. What parameters were measured and with what tests? What was the pH in the morning or at night, and during the day with all the lights on? The KH dropped a bit; what were the values and, most importantly, over what period of time? Check the salinity with another refractometer, definitely, but this can be analyzed... we had a similar problem a couple of months ago, about six corals ended up in the bucket...
Cheryl
magnesium check
Jeremy8404
pH at night 7.6, during the day 7.8
Magnesium 1300-1400 Salifert and Siachem
Calcium 440 Salifert
KH 8 JBL test - correct
KH dropped by 1-1.5 degrees, the reactor was not working for a week.
Salinity is normal, I double-checked.
I don't know where to look anymore. Can old lamps change the spectrum to the wrong one?
Sherri1320
I join the discussion! The same problem - Digitata doesn't want to open properly. And it's been quite a while...
My parameters:
PH = 8.1-8.2
KH = 6
Ca = ~430
Mg = ~1200
temperature = 25°C
salinity = 1.023 (refractometer)
I replaced all the lamps with new ones - nothing has changed ((
I suspect the KH is a bit low, so I'm gradually raising it.
What other ideas do people have?
Danny
Well, as for me, the parameters are almost perfect, except for the pH, maybe that's it. And how old are the lamps? But they probably didn't have much impact. Do a 15% water change, replace the carbon.
Jade
Test your refractometer, as it often has significant errors. Raise the salinity to 1.025. The KH is generally fine, but it can be increased to 7-8.
Amy9618
Max is right, I thought about it too. I had a similar situation with the refractometer; after a slight fall, it was off and showed 0.04 lower. I thought everything was fine, but in reality, it was 1.021.
Christopher7213
The pH is low, as already mentioned... and it can have an effect such as reducing polyps. The KH from JBL was off by 2-3 units, I think it was overestimated... if it's the same situation, then 5-6, and if it also dropped by 1.5 units... I would definitely check the TM or Salifert... I threw away all JBL tests after such a mistake... Did you measure the salinity with another refractometer? Old lamps can give a brown color to corals... nothing was said about silicates and phosphates, especially!
Kyle
How to raise the pH then? A straw from the foam on the street is not an option. I bought a pH buffer to raise it, but the effect is short-lived. The KH was correct; I compared it with Salifert, and the Salifert ran out. I checked the salinity with an old float hydrometer, which is accurate, plus I calibrated the refractometer on pure distillate. There are no silicates or phosphates; I tested, and the anti-phosphate is lying around. The problem is that I have 4 digitates, and one of them is gradually closing up. Not all the SPS have closed, but about 30% have worsened in appearance. I think I will change the carbon, use anti-phosphate, do a water change, and try to gradually raise the pH with something.
Stephanie4990
More precisely, not to let him fall at night.
Jeffrey6189
The aquarium is not improving, I don't know where to look. I tested the water and everything seemed fine, except for the KH which was 12 according to Salifert. I have Salifert, and I lowered the KH to 9-10 according to it. The purple acroporas specifically don't look good; they are turning a bit green at the edges and are losing tissue, with no polyps at all. I measure KH with a JBL test and it shows 4. I leveled the pH a while ago and gradually raised it to 8.2. Magnesium and calcium are within normal limits according to Salifert. I changed the carbon, and I have anti-phosphate. Salinity is normal; I checked it. I feed nori every day; could this seaweed be ruining the water? I feed with tweezers, and they eat everything in a couple of minutes.
William1830
For those interested, the aquarium is still there, Achilles is living. I dismantled the reef, in the system of live rocks (5 kg at most), not many corals, a macroalgae tank has been started, I took a light fixture with two diodes in the sump, the chaetomorpha started growing immediately and the water doesn't heat up. A third surgeon fish, a small Zebrasoma scopas, appeared in the aquarium; at first they fought, but by evening everything was peaceful, thanks to the mirror (I set it up for an hour). So, Achilles is quite an adequate fish, although every evening he gets covered in crypts.
Nicole
The reason for dismantling the reef was that the corals had grown too much, making it difficult to maintain the aquarium, clean the glass, etc. Then there were sharp fluctuations in parameters, and I couldn't stabilize them; the fish were losing color and dying off quickly. I managed to take out whoever I could, and I wanted to set up a new reef, but after dismantling this one, I decided to leave it half-empty.
Stacey4437
Damn, I feel for you, you had a great rhyme.
Kristin
One and a half to two years is a normal time for a small aquarium up to 500 liters to grow in, then a rebuild or restart, it will grow more soon, so that's normal.
Nicholas
It's not really a rhyme anymore... there's just one small slide, and the remaining ones are located on the sand... but at least the glass is easy to clean.
Jeffrey
Everything will grow back, but if you want to continue successfully maintaining the aquarium, I would still recommend that you sift through it, clean the tank, and refresh the sand and stones a bit. The main thing is to clean the sand, as it has accumulated so much that you won't be able to miss it during the cleaning. It will look as good as new.
Curtis9143
You won't be able to miss that this is very softly said. I rinsed about 20 kg of sand after 2 years in the aquarium, and it took over 100 liters of saltwater. I rinsed it with saltwater to keep it alive.
Wendy8540
I want to wash the pumps in vinegar. Do I need to dilute it with water, or can I use it straight from the store? How long should I leave them in the solution?
Kevin
Do not dilute the vinegar. The soaking time is determined by the degree of cleanliness from the deposits. From 30 minutes to 2 hours.
Teresa
Thank you
Selena4467
I soak them for a day; my pumps get heavily covered with Carolina, and after a day, almost everything comes off easily. Vinegar has no effect on plastic.
Joseph6461
Good day! How is Riff feeling today?