• Rapid tissue necrosis

  • Denise

Forum members, today I noticed a nasty issue called "rapid tissue necrosis" on two of my corals. I had this happen once before, but I removed that coral from the tank, and now, after 2 days, I've found the same problem again. Who knows how to fight it? What should I do? Any and all advice is welcome. The problem is that in Germany, I couldn't find any of the listed treatments (from the link).

Jeremy8404

Look at what is in Lugol's solution; it contains iodine, which helped me recently.

Kimberly2102

I have Tropic Marin Pro-Coral Iod, pro coral iodine. As far as I understand, this is the same as Lugol's solution... Did you have the same problem with tissue necrosis?

Mark9853

Yes, I received the green goniopora, and after a week, it started to shed and the tissue began to rot. Following Anatoly's advice, I dipped it; one bath was enough, and the next day it stopped.

Joseph9057

Has the branch recovered, or has the rot and shedding just stopped?

Curtis9143

Is Ufa working? There is a rapid spread of infection. Conduct an anthology of your kind, consider what you did wrong in the last 7-10 days; perhaps there was a blow to the biosystem that the corals fought against until the end, but now they can no longer cope. I remember there were some problems beforehand; there were experiments with garlic then, and it doesn't seem like they were in vain, after all, sulfuric acid, right?

Christopher7213

Isn't hydrogen sulfide being released there? Try stirring the soil with a stick to a depth, and if bubbles come up, smell above the water. If it smells like rotten eggs, then it's a 100% restart and urgently needed.

Ricky9405

only three days have passed

Crystal

So that's one less nuisance. Bubbles can also be produced by lower algae during photosynthesis. Judging by the photo, that's indeed the case.

Yvette209

Phew... that was reassuring. They probably reacted to the sudden change in light since we're talking about photosynthesis... so it will settle down on its own... now I just need to figure out what to do about the necrosis, if that's what it is... I'm going to add iodine to the water every day—after all, it's the corals' immunity... and actual Lugol's solution in the water... no more than 1-2 drops per 100 liters... in the meantime, I'll siphon any slime, even if it's not necrosis... I've already made a "vacuum cleaner" from a bamboo stick to which I attached a thin hose, and I'm collecting it in a small basin... it turned out to be convenient and uses little water—the efficiency has increased, I can even collect planarians easily...

Larry9400

It seems the cyanobacteria is bubbling with oxygen. Apparently, it's overfeeding and there are also some dead ones. I would change at least 30% of the water and feed once a day with a little bit of dry food, just a little. And don't add any supplements for the corals yet. As for the light (this is my strict opinion), there is too much white and not enough blue. In my opinion, the ratio of blue to white should be 3 to 1, or maybe 2 to 1.

Rodney3101

shrimp... I tried to look for it today but couldn't find it... I feed it, as I described above... I try to make smaller doses... feed less with frozen food... I usually do water changes of about 10 liters... but this week it turned out to be almost 20 in total (10 planned) and 10 during siphoning... I mean, could the light really play such a trick on me? The blue lamps work well... you can see the blue in any shadow... the fixture is standard... I was also thinking of adding blue diodes there, they would serve as a night light and wouldn't spoil the look... but I haven't gotten around to it yet... P.S.: about the water change - I think I'll do about 30 liters at the end of the week...

Robert5335

Cyanobacteria have a mixed type of nutrition. They are capable of synthesizing carbohydrates (autotrophs), but they can also use ready-made decomposing organic substances (heterotrophs). What is 20 liters in a volume of 120? No matter how much I read the advice of experienced sailors, replacing 30-50% of the water is the first priority. I have also tested this myself. How can you remove the nastiness from the water? The easiest way is to remove it along with the water. Now the shrimp can no longer be found; it has long been eaten and digested if there is a sufficient number of scavengers in the aquarium—polychaetes, first and foremost!—but before that, it contaminated the water.

Kellie

Hmm... so, if we consider that cyanobacteria eat everything, then they are a kind of biological filter as well... which is not bad either... There are many scavengers; as a beginner, I initially fed them abundantly without holding back, and that's how the worms got well-fed and multiplied on a good food base.

James8887

The question is twofold. On one hand, they even attach filamentous algae - detritus gradually accumulates in the filamentous algae, then cyanobacteria settle on top, and the algae underneath die. But there are also drawbacks, and the appearance is not great - a red carpet with bubbles. It also indicates that there is a lot of organic matter in the aquarium. Although for soft corals, this is only a good thing. Especially Sarcophyton grows well. Just read the link -

Sharon

The thing is, not everyone can post a photo of their aquarium where filamentous algae and cyanobacteria are growing. What can you do if the aquarium is small, there are many creatures, and it's nice to watch them eat with appetite? Of course, higher algae should be cultivated. It's good to have live rocks, a well-established aquarium with balance, and more scavengers in the sand and on the rocks. It's a matter of time and experience.

James8887

Well, if someone wants, they can post it... I'm not ashamed of my failures... I walk by the sea and paddle with a rake. Maybe someone will find something useful about tissue necrosis...

Darrell7542

In general, the key to good well-being is the stability of the system. If even one of its components fails, it’s not the same anymore. Recently, you’ve experienced many such failures. There have been issues with light, dead organisms, movement of stones, and likely an overload of organics; there could be other nuances that you might not be aware of, and we simply cannot specify them since we don’t see your aquarium in person. Everything is mainly based on assumptions, even if they are reliable, but they are still, again, assumptions.

Erin

Well, what else can be added to what has already been said... Replace 15% of the water. Don't manipulate the light anymore, it's bad, don't disturb the stones, don't overfeed, don't add unnecessary things to the tank, monitor the GH, and install UV.

John1464

Can necrosis "spread"? I mean, like an infection - can one coral infect another?

Jason

I think maybe the judge is right after all. I observed this with my former euphyllia. At first, it consumed one head. Then the second, and then the third... although they didn't touch each other. What I am currently observing on two other corals is not necessarily necrosis, but I already have paranoia about it, so forgive me, "better safe than sorry." Once again, I apologize for the statement, but there was no better phrase on my mind.

Kenneth7331

Damn. One of my SPS got sick, and I didn't take it out of the tank until the last moment; I kept bathing it and hoped to save it... and now there are 5 :/// Maybe I should just get rid of them??? They seem to be holding on, but not really...((

John5528

Google "ochre jelly".

Cheryl

Yes, Tanya is right - I'm talking about the splices, lps (tttt) everything is fine... It's just necrosis. And that's it (( I've been soaking for a month now... no results. Then, when it becomes like a skeleton, its film covers it like cyan, but I understand that this is a consequence, not a cause. The tests in the system are textbook perfect - everything is fine. I can only blame the sand filling... (((

Tammy

I also have one SPS that has started to lose its color, even though it has been with me for about 2-3 months... I don't understand what's wrong with it... the dips haven't really helped... no one is burning it, and the pumps are circulating... By the way, can all SPS corals recover?

Breanna9982

Guys, question: Is it possible to save this coral? The first photo is from yesterday when the power started to go out, and today (10 minutes ago).

Erin2730

The only thing I can recommend is, if the skeleton is not healing, to bite off the fragment, glue it onto a plate, and cover the break with fabric to reduce the risk of flaking, and then place it in a different location... This way, more than one fragment has been saved.

Jeffrey2277

Try to do it urgently, the photo should have been attached yesterday!!!!!! I wrote above how to save it for Nadia.... I looked closely at the photos, there are Rodacaxis and Euphyllia nearby, could they reach the coral? If not, but very close, then a chemical attack is quite sufficient....

Anthony4281

Euphyllia was a bit stuck on the other side (not where it started to die) - I moved it, and everything was fine. Rodactis - no, it doesn't reach 2-3 centimeters... So if I understood everything correctly: now I take it out, cut off the live branches with pliers, and glue them to the rocks??? Should I soak it in iodine? And what about the one that has already shed? Does it have a chance to recover?

Chad

Disinfect the nippers with alcohol... we bite into living tissue, glue it onto a small stone, like onto a plate, and then cover it with glue and plasticine, whatever you have; I use regular epoxy. I don't think bathing is necessary; it will be stressful enough for him since he has already been bathed, I think... Of course, you can leave that stump, but it's unlikely to work... the main thing is to preserve at least something.

Brooke

The surgical kit is ready - in the form of pliers, but there's a problem with the alcohol... I'm thinking of something now... I have a small file knife - it's clean... so, cutting into living tissue...

Amy5070

There can be a lot of little issues... or something is wrong with the water, check the tests... P.S.: Do you have a nightlight?

Karen81

You are right. The nightlight went out for about two weeks... for a month, there was only the "street" lighting at night. Maybe that's why the fool and the gorgon are stressed. I change the water little by little, so as not to disrupt the balance, every other day. Using distilled water.

Alyssa1438

Set up a nightlight—it should help... It reduces stress for the fish and benefits the corals.

Monique1236

The nightlight was gone for six months, everything was fine, it's unlikely that's the reason...

Nancy758

Then the water... we will test it. By the way, Premnas is digging trenches again. Just like before the war. Muti is raising - ...! At night, I turn off the skimmer (I wanted to prevent plankton from being removed; at night it floats "in abundance." For feeding non-photosynthetic organisms, and I turn it back on in the morning, on a timer, until the skimmer turns off, with a good air compressor and diffuser. I was advised to install it. pH doesn't drop, everything is crawling and living. Non-photosynthetic organisms in the morning, around five o'clock - just luxurious. Thank God necrosis isn't spreading further. TAka ... exactly. My lamps have reached their lifespan. Everything is coming together. The "light-water-cyanobacteria" connection?

James

I fished everything out... I got 3 pieces... 2 small ones, one medium... now in a bowl with salt water, waiting for the glue to set a bit, and I'll drop some iodine in there... it will be like a little bath at the same time...

Breanna9982

Regarding the diagnosis-link... I can't make a determination. As I mentioned above, everything is so confusing... We had issues after the filling of the crumbs + a week later we started changing the bulbs, gradually 2-3 a week... maybe something else was added... in short, it's a complex situation...

Sherri1320

At the moment, the largest fragment has opened up and unfurled... while the two smaller ones are already partially covered with some kind of film, but they are also opening up...

Judy

I chopped the large bushes into small pieces and placed them in different spots (current/lighting), but I haven't found any connection yet. Bathing in coral cure doesn't help at all. I suspect the substrate (silicates???) or fluctuations in calcium and pH (new reactor ---> adjustment).

Steven

Well, if they are just flying around, it could be Pykha... silicates - if there is antifos, it's unlikely... But if they are dying off, it could be tissue necrosis... Try to take a photo and post it - maybe it will be visible - we'll take a look.