• Ciano and Nitchatka - why?

  • Amber1273

Good afternoon, the question is as follows: After changing the water, cyanobacteria and filamentous algae appeared on the glass. I did a 30-liter water change, but the cyanobacteria continue to progress. I haven't done a 50% water change. What could be causing these outbreaks? I tested everything, and all is normal except for nitrates, which are elevated but not critical. (The total volume of the aquarium is 100 liters.) All the inhabitants feel great, but there are small brown algae on the stone with the clavularia that look like a web with bubbles - I'm afraid it will smother them. What do you recommend? I have been thinking for a long time about the osmotic water; it has been in use for 5-6 months. Should I change the membrane?

Earl

Have you changed the lighting spectrum? It wouldn't hurt to measure the TDS of your water; you probably need to change the membrane. At this stage, fight mechanically with a medium-sized brush, sweep it off the stones, as it really doesn't like that.

Kathy

The spectrum hasn't changed, but I would gladly change it; the only problem is that I can't find new lamps for this aquarium anywhere. If it's the membrane, I'll order it today, even if it's not the issue, let it be a spare. The only thing is that the skimmer is dead, and I just haven't gotten around to making a new one... thanks for the advice.

Kimberly

The skimmer is urgently needed to be operational, but I understand that it is currently idle and not in use.

Stephanie4990

I don't think it's worth changing the membrane. Change the pre-filter, i.e., the cartridges with carbon and mechanical filtration. Also, try passing the water after osmosis through ion exchange resins. This is regarding cyanobacteria. As for the filamentous algae, it's about nitrates and phosphates.

Jeremy3637

The skimmer seems to be of no use to me... The only thing is that I have a bag of Chemi-Pure in the back, and its time has already expired, as the corals have grown quite a bit in 3-4 months. I will stop by the store to get two aquariums... this might also be a reason. I just read about Chemi-Pure, and it says that you need to monitor the time from when you put it in until it stops "clearing the water," and it also mentions that cyanobacteria and filamentous algae may appear.

Kathy

Where is that written?? I'm sure Kemi Pure has nothing to do with it! Once I had a cyan issue, and the Kemi Pure was new. I still can't understand why there was cyan and why it suddenly disappeared...

Alyssa6727

Are you sure you have cyanobacteria and not diatoms? Cyanobacteria usually appear on sand or rocks. PS And also... Your aquarium is not "already more than six months old," but only six months!)) It is not fully matured yet!))

Jessica5016

I have dark red algae on the stones, or rather on the rock, and on the caulerpa growing on the stones, swaying at the ends of the threads - what is that then?

Jerry

Cyanobacteria.

Joe

Haka, it would be great if you could share a couple of photos, then it would be possible to comment more clearly on what is happening with the lower ones...

Ricardo7341

Thank you, I will post it on Monday. For now, I changed the Chemipure and replaced the water. I took a medium-bristle brush and am mechanically sweeping. I noticed that when you sweep the stones with the brush, it seems like dust has gathered on the stones. I haven't defeated the cyano yet, but the next day it formed again.

Alan273

It is preferable not to sweep it away, but to remove it from the aquarium if possible! P.S. When you touch the film with a brush, does it break apart or remain almost intact?

Veronica

1. Strong skimmer - no problem. Do you have a skimmer? Which one? 2. Adding vodka (with a powerful skimmer) 3. Osmosis is not the issue... I add water to my aquarium right after cartridge filters (by the way, I live in Chernihiv and the water quality is excellent) 4. Age of the aquarium? 5. Ratio of live rock (L.R.) to dry rock (D.R.)? 6. Cleanliness of the creatures 7. Amount of feed? 8. Presence of useless filtration in the system (besides the skimmer and algae filter)? 9. Quality of light and its duration... This is the minimum that needs to be answered...

Wendy

Pavel is asking the right questions; I would also add: what water quality tests have been conducted recently and what were the results?

Larry

The questions are certainly valid! But... First, you need to know what has appeared in the person's aquarium. If it's cyanobacteria, that's one thing, but if it's dinoflagellates, that's something completely different! You can install the most powerful skimmer, and you can test the water with the best tests, but as long as it doesn't resolve on its own, it won't go away!

Natalie

It's time to post a couple of photos. Then we can chat.

Raven7170

There is a very good medication that will help solve the problem, I recommend it. There is also this product and this one.

Ryan

To be honest, it's unclear. We talked about the treatments, and you told me not to pour anything into the aquarium. I also have a very distrustful attitude towards treatments; somehow, I managed to buy $200 worth of all sorts of nonsense at one store, based on advice, which turned out to be completely unnecessary. Although you are an authoritative aquarist for me, I think I will try the treatment from the first link.

Gene1948

The product in the first link works very well; I have personally checked it. As for adding various substances to the aquarium, I still hold my opinion. Any additives should be introduced thoughtfully and only after ensuring their necessity; otherwise, it can only make things worse.

Alyssa1438

In small aquariums, the main problem is the siltation of the filter chamber. What kind of substrate is there? Is the standard sponge in place? The foam can be thrown away; it’s useless.

Bryan1851

You can clearly see the reasons for the progress of the lower ones. First of all, it is the nitrate issue. Surely, it is also about PO4. There are harmless medications for all of this. I will repeat: pay serious attention to the filtration system, address the accumulations of detritus in the substrate and all kinds of dead zones. If you need to dismantle the reef somewhere to carry out a thorough cleaning, do it.

Kristen1161

Detritus in a marine aquarium is not a problem; on the contrary, it serves as an excellent substrate for various plankton. In my aquarium, I never remove detritus from the system; instead, I try to accumulate it, and later it serves as great food for corals. Previously, I siphoned areas in the sump where a lot of detritus had accumulated, but the corals started to stress afterward.

Cassandra1840

1. Strong foam - no problem. 2. You add vodka (with strong foam) I would make a small algae drink in his place. As mentioned above, it is advisable to add vodka (carbohydrates) with strong foam, as bacteria consume oxygen during reproduction.

Daniel8015

Thank you all for your help. I've been looking for options for the filter for a long time, maybe even making a sump myself; I just need to figure out how to attach the drain. There are options for an external drain, but I would have to cut the lid. If I were in his place, I would make a small algae scrubber. I would gladly do it, but I always run into something that gets in the way. I would appreciate it if someone could suggest a practical solution, not just a theoretical one.

Steven757

Somewhere they did something like that. I just don't remember how.

Timothy

Hello, "Naka". Good day. Why aren't you continuing the conversation about the lower ones, and the photos are not visible? Is everything already fine?

Matthew1280

This is how I want to make a drain in the sump; I haven't found another option yet. I will cut a square in the back of the lid. The only thing I need to think about is how to secure the drain to the aquarium itself. I will glue a compartment from acrylic glass, and I will install a pump with a pipe in it—so that if the power goes out, the height of the submerged pipe in the aquarium is minimal and does not affect the drop in water level in the aquarium. The only issue is that if the pump in the drain fails, there could be an overflow. I will make a hole in the bottom of the compartment, but I don't know the diameter yet. I will also install a valve on the drain. I just need to take accurate measurements, design the sump, and choose a pump for the lift.

Jeffrey496

What is the pump for?

Sarah5423

Once on Reefkeeping, there was a list of the ten dumbest suggestions regarding marine aquariums. The top spot went to the suggestion to organize circulation between the aquarium and the sump using two pumps - one for feeding and one for draining...

Dennis

The design is amazing. The pump in the compartment can be eliminated, along with the compartment. However, regarding the upper part of the overflow pipe, it is necessary to create a vertical pipe with a valve for pumping out the accumulated air. If this is not done, there is a risk of air getting trapped in the upper part of the pipe, which will lead to overflow with all the consequences...

Wesley

The thing is, I was considering a drain like this, but it has a drawback: over time, where the air valve is, you need to check that air doesn't accumulate, otherwise the water will stop flowing. I put the pump there to suck in the water. As for the dumbest idea, suggest something smarter; I can express my opinion myself, but no one is addressing the issue. The idea with the pump is based on the principle of hanging foamers.

Jacob4800

In the sump, water is supplied by gravity, and there is no need to install a suction pump. There is a feed pump in the sump that lifts water from the sump to the aquarium. That's it. In your design, there is a clear risk of overflow. A chamber is glued from acrylic, even from solid glass, with a drainage pipe through which accumulated air is removed. The filling with water is clearly visible. In my similar setup, air is pumped out through the drainage pipe once every 1.5 months. There have never been any overflows, even with the maximum amount of air in the chamber.

John1464

I understand everything, thank you. In my case, I used a pump to fill the cup instead of draining water into the sump. The water then drains from the cup into the sump. I was just a bit unsure about what the instructions say regarding checking the air valve. Usually, such setups are not practical. In my case, these complications are becoming a bit frustrating. I theoretically have a new 300-liter aquarium, but I won't be buying all the equipment anytime soon. In two months, I'll be in the States, and I'll get everything I planned there, but I'm worried about what I have right now, especially since I want to do something with my own hands.

Michael826

According to the photo, everything is fine with you! Are you thinking of making a sump for the Resun 500? What's the point? The rear compartment is already the sump. You can easily create an algae section there! At the back of the aquarium, you cut a piece of film with a blade, place it in the algae compartment, and set up a regular desk lamp to illuminate the algae section. That's how I did it. When the skimmer arrives, the algae will move to compartment #2, as the skimmer will only fit in compartment #3.

Jessica5348

As an option, find a single level in the reservoir and aquarium and make a Durso drain.

Eric

I have already ordered the glass cutting. I designed a sump for about 50 liters. The overflow will be external. In the sump, I plan to create an algae scrubber, install a skimmer, and a return pump. Ideally, nothing else will fit in there. I will remove the sponge and skimmer from the top, and I think I will leave the Chemipure where it is now in the second compartment. I know it's nonsense, but still, a sump is a sump, and it will add extra water volume.

Leonard

According to the photo, everything is fine with you! This photo is old; I need to take new ones, but I just can't find the time. Everything looks quite different now, in my opinion, better. By the way, it seems like the cyan has disappeared. Most likely, you need to wash the sponge very often; that's my observation.

Melissa1838

Actually, samp.

Jessica9188

Naka, your model drawings are always excellent - you clearly have a connection to architecture. But it's not clear why such complexity in the samp? Can you explain the idea behind that multilayer glass structure?

Chris

Well, it's an interesting solution. I don't know, though, how such a glass pen will work... It will be interesting to see a finished photo of it.

Elizabeth

So this is a pen? Well... we'll see. But it's a controversial decision in my opinion.

Elizabeth1221

In general, it's all acrylic, I'm slowly gluing the aquarium, the foam is also acrylic. I just need to drill the holes.))) I'm trying to stick to the plan.

John3432

I'll bring up the topic, even though it's an old one. What was the result? What was improved? What are the overall impressions? Did you have to increase the return section?

Jacqueline6670

Actually, the topic is about cyanosis, and it is relevant for many people and how they deal with it. As for the leak, let them create a different topic.

Wendy8540

My observation might be useful. I have an aquarium, which you call a "swamp." There have never been any tests, no chemicals, and no fish. Hair algae is growing, dictyota too, there are plenty of planarians, but no batriocladia. I brought some frags with cyanobacteria, didn't clean them, just placed them directly in the aquarium. The cyanobacteria disappeared. It seems my salinity was 1.021. Could this be the reason?

Javier5186

This is clearly not the reason.

Gary6376

It turned out similarly. I didn't know what that stuff was. Today, around one of the stones on the sand, I noticed a brown coating. What can be done to prevent the spread of the infection? P.S. Aquarium 130 liters (Boyu 550), two months old. A few soft corals, a couple of clownfish...

Sherri1320

You can gently siphon the film along with the sand using a thin hose. The stain will likely reappear, so you can siphon it again. But it seems to me that even if nothing is done, the cyan will go away on its own. A small spot on the sand won't cause any harm, and if the water is clean, there won't be any spread.

Carrie1606

The simplest and most effective way is to sweep with a brush and gently stir the sand; doing this procedure twice a day will gradually make everything go away (the lower ones really dislike such procedures, and the strombus will pick up what it can, and whatever is left will be filtered out).

Joseph

and what if the stones are green?

Brandy1134

Green algae can't be removed with a brush; it comes back very quickly. I've tried anti-phosphate, charcoal, and KZ chemicals, and even a decent foam, but nothing helps. It's somehow easier with brown cyanobacteria, but with green algae, I'm completely stuck. What options do people have?

Ryan7682

I met the greens once, on the newly placed S.R.K. (dry reef stones) in the second month of maturation, but the greenery somehow passed on its own, as around 11 species of macrophytes were growing abundantly in the M.A. (marine aquarium). God spared me from observing them further.

Richard2180

This greenery resembles cyan in a bright salad color.

Andrea6761

This is cyano, I had the same issue. A few days ago, I finished battling this stuff, I used Red Slime Remover. The red cyano and also the green one are gone. This is not an advertisement, but it really works...

Angel628

how did the corals move?

Joshua9340

Under close observation of the aquarium, I noticed nothing deteriorating. Catalaphyllia seemed to have opened up even more, and the fish and other creatures are doing well.

Joyce

Kostya, most likely no. Because I always have 23-25. In my two aquariums, I struggled with cyanobacteria. I tried everything. In the end, it turned out to be bad sand that was leaching phosphates. In a recently launched aquarium with live sand and good rocks, I forgot about cyanobacteria. I also know for sure that cyanobacteria can appear due to: 1. Poor or insufficient water flow. 2. Excess organic matter. 3. Incorrect lighting/Chinese lamps or burnt-out ones. 4. Failures in electrical equipment. 5. And as it recently turned out, a significant drop in water salinity. This is from what I personally know and have seen.

Mike

Of course, that's true, BUT! If nothing changes except for the increase in temperature, what can be blamed? And then, with absolutely NO changes, it starts to disappear before my eyes, what to think about? Neither the current, nor the food, nor the lamps have made any difference. I'll add this. I gave Erythromycin. At my own risk.

Sara4035

Well, how can there be no changes except for the temperature??? Changes are always happening! A little more food, a little more fish poop, the lamps burned out, etc. In 20 liters of water, these processes are intensified exactly 20 times compared to 200 liters, and so on. Water treatment can have its own effects. The salt may be of poor quality. You might be doing water changes too often or not often enough, etc.

Melissa2062

In practice, when the food is taken away, it will still end up in someone's organism. There are many mouths in the aquarium, including the small worms, gammarus, and mysis themselves. I have come to the conclusion that if feeding is done twice a day, the second feeding should be given before turning off the lights. Then, all the little creatures that sit quietly and hide from the light start to emerge from their hiding spots. In the sea, only fish eat during the day.

Kristen1161

During the day, I catch Artemia with my little nets, and all sorts of mushrooms...

Joseph9203

If we list them by name, it will take a lot of time. In the sea, there are those WHO eat and those WHO are eaten. The small creatures that can be eaten during the day come out at night in search of food. These are the recyclers - icky creatures, snails, little worms, amphipods, and so on... And the "parasites" can eat just about anything and also ruin lives.