• LED light for Boyu-450

  • Jeffrey6189

Hello, forum members! I decided to redesign the lighting for my 50-liter aquarium. I want to clarify that I am not an expert in LEDs, so I welcome your criticism and hope for YOUR help and support. 1. Selection of LEDs (the most challenging point for me so far). I have currently settled on the following: XPEHEW-L1-0000-00G53 Color: White, Cool. Color temperature, K: 4700-7000 Luminous flux, lm: 134 XPEROY-L1-0000-00A01 Color: Dark blue XPEBLU-L1-0000-00Y01 Color: Blue 2. Quantity and layout. Regarding the layout: I have assembled a forum aquarium controller that has 2 PWM channels. Therefore, I am thinking of grouping the LEDs into 2 groups for implementation (through a dimmer) for day, night, dawn, and sunset. I plan to make about 6 stars with 3 LEDs each, totaling around 18 pieces. Preliminary quantity: 6 white, 6 royal blue, 6 blue (I have doubts about the number of blue ones; should I give up 3 in favor of white?). I would really like to hear your opinions. Thank you in advance! to be continued...

Andrew4194

I sketched the layout! I ended up changing 2 blue ones to white! It turns out like this: 8 white 6 royal blue 4 blue In total, for 8 white and 10 royal blue. It seems that this ratio is recommended! But there is concern about the light intensity of the whites. Based on 50 lm per liter, we get 50 x 50 = as much as 2500 lumens (that's quite a lot). LED 130 lm x 8 white = 1000 lm + blue (that's a bit low).

Brandy

2 whites and 1 blue. This is the best combination. In the morning, when the white component grew faster than the blue group of diodes, a pinkish hue appeared (that's what I wanted). But I also had a specially installed UV LED. In the evening, it was the most beautiful and interesting - precisely when the white light faded faster than the blue group - the corals almost exploded with fluorescence.

John

How many of each did you have? White, blue, and grand pianos? If possible, what color are the white ones? I already have the UV! I will just move it.

Stephen5857

Five threes: white, royal, actinic. The sixth CD - UV. I sent the specifications earlier in a private message. Now it’s necessary to specifically look for them - if they are still in the messages, post them for everyone to see.

John5528

You wrote to me that XPE and XPG were used at a current of 700 mA. Most likely, the white one was stronger than mine (XPG). That's about it. XPGWHT-L1-0000-00G51 XPGWHT-L1-0000-00G53 XPGWHT-L1-0000-00H53 I will try to follow your path! Thanks! I will buy the LEDs and let you know which ones I used! P.S. It's a double-edged sword! XPG only has cool white (but they are more powerful). XPE is weaker, but there is HewWhite, meaning that XPE has a whiter cold option.

Jill1815

What does more powerful mean? They are either 1 watt or 3 watts. And what is "new white"? There can be warm, neutral, and cool white, but there is no new.

Heather6148

This is the measurement at a current of 350 mA. Apply 700 mA and the lumens increase by 80%. Achieve the required light intensity for your volume. Just make sure to consider cooling.

Martha

for xpe 350-1000 (mainly powered at 700), for xpg 700-1500, they probably operate at 1A. LEDs are rarely powered at maximum currents, they say they "burn out" faster then. I don't know such, haven't used them. ... it's better to use xpg for white (slightly better than xpe), and for blue and royal xpe or xte.

Nancy758

If it's not a secret, where are you planning to buy the diodes???

Tricia7885

I don't know yet! I will look for it, and I'll write when I buy it. I'm currently searching for a radiator.

Stephen

Used 3W(e).

Amy

In terms of nominal? There is no concept of nominal mode for these diodes. They are tested at maximum on the driver at 350 mA. The rest is in the graphs. For XRE, you can give up to 1000 mA. It's just that the lifespan is shorter. Everything is written on page 9 of that file. The lifespan of the diodes is mainly affected by temperature. That's why I mentioned cooling. Everything is shown in the graphs.

Mitchell7972

Thank you! I printed it out, highlighted it, and figured it out!

Steven757

The datasheet indicates that the piano covers the specified range well! Or did I misunderstand something?

Alyssa1438

It captures sometimes. It just lacks intensity. Its light output is indicated not even in lumens, as with daytime vision, but in milliwatts, as with night or twilight vision. I'll try to explain graphically now. Physics isn't very easy to grasp.

Lindsey3628

I understand! But then how do people cover this range? Thank you in advance! P.S. It's a pity that I can't just add light to the original; I wouldn't have to struggle.

Christopher1252

The first image is practically ideal for corals (averaging SPS and LPS). The second is what we will get if stationary LED lights are used, where there are white diodes in combinations of one to one with other colored diodes. Even a 1:2 or 1:3 situation won't help. This is because the intensity of the white diodes' emission is often one to two times higher than the intensity of the same royal. You can check the second pages of the datasheets. Additionally, the royal has a very narrow peak wavelength that is only in one narrow band. Blue is also narrow. The coverage on the sides more or less starts where the emission strength drops to 20%.

Melissa

There are two options. The first (I didn't want to complicate things) is to catch the wavelengths, taking into account the intensity of the light flow and the radiation flow. Moreover, the Cree strips may not be enough. Or to power certain light combinations of the available LEDs through a controller, giving a peak of illumination with white LEDs for a short time. Otherwise, the zooxanthellae will develop to the point that they will obscure the natural color of the corals, turning them into reddish-brown. This is what happens in shallow waters in nature. That's why there is no clarity regarding LEDs.

Anna9752

Thank you for the clarification... So it turns out that my PL lamps provide a more or less correct spectrum? Mmm. Yes, I'm in shock... And what about the second option?

Michael5242

at 10 (1st order) - 100 (2nd order) times??? I just set the ICE myself...

Amy5468

Sure. I have 3-watt XPGWHT-L1-0000-00G51. Blue - XPEBLU-L1-0000-00W01. And royal blue XPEROY-L1-0000-00901. We can compare.

Wendy

Do you not have UV? P.S. TOO BAD! The assembled forum aquacontroller only has 2 PWM (dimmers).

Laura4892

I'm thinking about UV. They should send information about these diodes today; the intensity is not good at all. There don't seem to be UV diodes specifically for the sea. We'll check the datasheet and see. The night diodes are UV, but they are very weak. I can send you the phone number for the LED controller.

Erica

In terms of luminous output, these LEDs are a bit better. XPEROY-L1-0000-00A01 XPEBLU-L1-0000-00Y01 Regarding the white spectrum, if there is a lot of it, let's say... wouldn't it be better to use weaker LEDs and just shine longer (throughout the day)? What do you think?

Amber1273

Maybe these as well. I don't remember the detailed labeling. I can show the aquarium via Skype; it's currently lit for those two at this time. Weaker is not better. This is only good for lower species. For corals, it's better to have a bit more, but not too much. Let's say it should be sufficient. There are different types of corals. But the principle is this. If strong light is for a short time, it won't harm anyone. Dim light for a long time will be harmful. Photosynthesis in dim light will only occur in deep-sea corals, and even then, with the help of pigments. In moderate light, many can do it; in strong light, all can. We don't want to lose zooxanthellae.

Devon107

I read it and didn't fully understand what the solution is.

Heather2018

For such an aquarium, I see no other option but to make the light ice! For now, I'm looking for components... Once I start, I will post photos. P.S. I think I will just adjust the duration and intensity of the light.

Megan

Ask A, he has a 450 on LEDs.

Craig7302

I know! SPS is already sold...

Robert

Guys, maybe this topic will help you? It's not very much in Russian, but still, I stumbled upon it while searching for information on controllers built on the Arduino platform... You might find something useful for your project.

Nicholas

I know who put the stars there; that same person is making me a beam for 600 liters.

Anne4851

I also think I know! But I will do it myself, I want to figure it out on my own and for the sake of saving money. Although it's unclear what is cheaper...

Anna9752

You can only buy stars from this person (three 3W LEDs on each), and then you have to do the rest yourself.

Richard2180

Thank you very much! I checked the controller there!

David4089

So, is there any result on the redo?

Amy5468

In progress! Waiting for my salary.

John3142

I made a lamp for my 300-liter aquarium. I can answer a couple of questions. I know that LEDs are simply glued with special tape, but I drilled two holes, cut threads, and attached them using thermal paste. I used screws from terminal blocks (they have a good thickness and a small head). I haven't had the 450-liter aquarium for a long time, and I thought I deleted the topic. I would be happy to see some development. I should have made stars with three LEDs each.

Michael5242

here is the 550, but the difference is only in scale

Robert5335

And if we leave the T5e and use diodes and a controller to create a sunrise/sunset effect. Such a hybrid seems to me to have a right to exist.

Daniel8015

I think a solution has already been found in 2 years.