• Re: Help with advice on creating a marine aquarium.

  • Phyllis

The guys, please don't consider it impertinence - can you help me with the further evolution of my thoughts? I have a 140-liter aquarium - I want to switch it to a marine one, so to speak, to feel the taste. A couple of corals and two clownfish will suit me or you can offer other options? 1. Osmosis - it's clear - will be. 2. Sump - there is a place in the cabinet for a 60x30 cm,60 cm high - will it be enough for three compartments? 3. The first compartment is a protein skimmer, also known as a foam fractionator? Did I understand correctly? The second is for algae, live rocks, and lighting - the third is just a pump and water return to the aquarium? 4. What protein skimmer would you recommend? Maybe take one with a reserve, in case I later move to a 200-300 liter (when I learn everything)? Is such a set normal for a start? Well, the flow inward is clear, and the heater in the sump as well. By the way, will the one I currently have and sticking inside the aquarium work? Sorry for the

Barbara8192

Thank you for giving me a separate thread - I will try not to disgrace the "high trust" placed in me. Guys - once again about my case - otherwise I will still bother you, I am persistent. What do you think of my idea - to buy equipment for 250-300 liters, but start with 140? Everything except for the light - can it be switched to a larger aquarium later? I already have it. And my requirements for the inhabitants are minimal - I swear I was overjoyed with just one coral and two clownfish - I am really a minimalist.

Selena4467

In my opinion, the idea is right; I have everything in reserve. The sea is worse than a drug; you get hooked and don't even notice when you have not just one coral but a couple of clowns as well. Go for it boldly and don't be afraid.

Rebecca

Then I need to come up with a sump larger than the stand I currently have for 140 liters - that is, 60x30x50? I can place it next to it and then transfer it to the adult aquarium. Moreover, the stand was bought together with the aquarium - I think it's just regular particle board that will swell quickly. What dimensions are desirable for a sump for 250-300 liters?

Nicholas2252

In my opinion, it's better not to rush with a large sump: the main thing is that it should be convenient for you and you shouldn't stumble; it will take an average of 3 to 6 months for the setup and development of the marine environment, and it's still better to treat the stand with either yacht varnish or polymer. Make the system functional first and foremost, and the sump volume depends on the size of the aquarium and the owner's personal preference: the main thing is to have the equipment set up, calcium in any form, and a little extra just in case, and we can refeed from what remains.

Joshua

Yacht varnish!!! The class of thought - how I myself didn't quite get it - thanks. I opened a booth for the dog for them - second winter - flight "you won't get cold." Sorry - I'm refudging, I haven't reached that point yet - cooling??? If so, then a counter question - what if I have an air conditioner in the house and it's above +23, or rather, it never stays at +23 in any case - do I need it? Should I refudge this?

Stephen

Refugium is an algae filter, a compartment in the sump with algae... it definitely needs to have light... If there is an air conditioner, I don't think additional cooling is necessary for this volume.

Lindsey3362

I already know about it, I just read so much that I didn't remember its technical name. I have a reference here with over 500 photos of how sulfur is built and used abroad - with a decent skimmer - is that necessary? Or does one not exclude the other?

Ashley5975

Sump should be planned with consideration for the future aquarium, with compartments accordingly. Algae can be grown directly in the aquarium, in the absence of surgeons. There is no need for a refugium for a small volume and the aforementioned population.

Laura3615

What size is your aquarium? There might be issues with lighting - it's better to have a fixture (not a lid), either T5 or T5 + MH of your choice. If you have an air conditioner set to 23 degrees constantly, you won't need any other cooling. A skimmer is being sold slightly used in the classifieds, but it will be suitable for a larger volume; I'm not sure about this one - check with the seller, and if it fits in terms of volume and budget, you can consider it. Once you decide on the skimmer, you can plan the compartments in the sump. The flow is from San-San to Coralia and Vortex. Are you thinking of drilling the aquarium or installing an overflow? What thickness is the glass in mm?

Brian6895

Make the SAMPA sections as simple as possible. If there is free space in the cabinet, leave it for possible additional equipment (controllers, sockets, overlays, etc.).

Destiny

+1000

Michelle104

In the sump, the compartments for the skimmer and for the algae will be at a constant level, while the last one, where the return pump is located, will be at a variable level; it is there that water evaporation will be reflected, so it should have a reserve. Ideally, the sump should be as large as possible, preferably the entire footprint of the future aquarium. Will you be topping off automatically or manually?

Jeremy3637

I have no idea, I still don't quite understand how this will affect aquarium maintenance. If it's once a week, for example, then I definitely don't need it, I'll add it myself.

Katie5500

Refilling is a daily task. I lose 2.5 liters a day from 250 liters. I refill...

Emily3144

Yes! I didn't think about that, although I know a thing or two about seawater from experience - Off-topic, I've been a sailor since I was 14. Thank you for that!!! It gives me hope - so I will be able to make 4-6 changes. It makes sense - if it really won't be expensive according to point #4 - I'll monitor prices now. Oh, if it turns out to be inexpensive to make 140 liters seriously - I will thoughtfully and thoroughly build a big one with your help!!! P.S. Maybe someone will sponsor me or give me a 500-liter aquarium on installment - I'm negotiating - by the way, it's made of acrylic - will it be suitable for the sea?

Jeffrey

Ohhhh ... well, if there is money, then I will do the topping up.

Larry9400

There are two problems with acrylic in the sea - scratching the glass during cleaning (no matter how hard you try, sooner or later a grain of sand will get under the scraper and...) and the inability to keep urchins in this case - they carve quite intricate patterns in the acrylic.

Eric8832

Cool, I wouldn't have thought of that. What if you use a magnet with a scraper instead of a scraper (I don't use them)? Does it scratch?

James5032

Yes, I got sand under the magnet - on the "facade" (and, as luck would have it, right in the center) there is a good scratch on the regular glass, a nice deep one, and there was an even bigger one on the acrylic.

Tonya

Guys, does acrylic polish if needed? People are going to dig out a 500-liter aquarium from the basement - I don't know what condition it's in. Maybe I'll start with 500.

John3335

I was referring to the magnetic scraper. Acrylic can be polished, but I can hardly imagine the process of polishing a scratch inside a reef aquarium weighing half a ton, about three centimeters from the bottom.

Lindsey3362

I was struck by the idea of trying to do this. The scratch was actually a bit higher. The desire to get rid of it still exists to this day... The focus didn't work out...

Rachel9060

You don't understand - the aquarium in the basement - a person used to take it seriously and then abandoned it - doesn't know what condition the aquarium is in. That's why I'm asking - if anything, can it be polished? And most importantly, how? The price of the aquarium will probably be ritualistic.

Mitchell3177

Don't complicate your life; why use acrylic with its distortions, dullness, and various flaws? You'll curse the day the idea came to you to use acrylic for a reef aquarium.

Rebecca1419

+100 Moreover, the only advantage is the weight of the aquarium itself. The funniest thing about acrylic is the seams; silicone doesn't separate like that.

Heather6148

The LED light will be very expensive, and if it is made, it should completely replace both MH and T5 (white and blue), but the price is currently much higher than MH + T5. Marin-Glo is expensive; you can either go for something simpler and cheaper (San-San Blue-Bio, Sylvania Coralstar, Aquamedic) or something better but slightly more expensive (ATI). It's worth considering a sump, but... what thickness is your glass - 6mm? If so, it's better not to drill it; if it's 8mm, then it's already better. Otherwise, you should install an overflow. You can use DG or Jebao 180, but a sump and DT are preferable at a minimum.

Tami

500. SD tape + 180 Bp. - I just took measurements at a friend's lab - we measured lumens - and this is what we got, it's completely SD without T5 - however, not 1500 euros for the brand name. I think I won't drill the 6 mm glass - I can't do it - so it looks like only hanging equipment in this case??? Maybe make neat little tubes and a sump??? If it justifies the trust placed in it? No, guys - be specific - if you say the sump is much better - then I'll take it on - but if not, then hanging equipment is easier for me. DT - what is that?

Melissa3200

Yes, I'm aware of those strips. The question (if the lumens are okay!) is what spectrum that tape has and whether it will be suitable for the sea? In fresh water, it works fine for us, but here, algae can grow and everything else, and corals might not like it. They use this for night lighting, or to supplement the main light (I don't remember what they catch - reflections or bunnies). By the way, gluing diodes to the radiator by hand turns out to be much cheaper than when an automatic machine does it, that's why... By the way, such a "nature" cover won't be suitable for the sea, especially if there will be an overflow.

Michelle1505

It is written there - on the strips 2700-3500K, but for the sea, this is rather not suitable. Everyone takes more - 6500 and above (better around 10000K), and they already go from 4 euros per piece. Here are already three different in spectrum, and even these are not the best. P.S. I don't know much about diodes, I'm just writing what I've read.

Curtis9143

We need a sample. If you find diodes with a suitable power in the range of 10000K-14000K, and at 160 per strip, please let us know. I think a couple of containers will be enough for the forum. "This 5000-7000 gives a cold purple light for the eye - I have a similar one hanging in my kitchen." Something is off... MH lamps up to 14000K still produce a white-yellow light. The blueness comes from lamps with 20000K.

Andrew9581

In the link you provided, click on specifications. Water Proof LED Flexible Strip (warm white 2700-3500, almost like Cree; if you don't have warm, but others, then take them with a margin for Cree as well). This is most similar to what we sell in tubes on reels.

David4968

Damn, I can't find it anywhere. Where is it?

Larry9400

Water Proof LED Flexible Strip - and click on Details Specification Data

Daniel

I understood everything - I was looking for a-y in K206 - of course I looked - after all, I provided the link myself - Notice that only "Warm Light" is marked in "K" - the rest is in Peak (nm) Wavelength - and here lies the mystery for me... at high temperatures it's simply K 5000...7000.

John3187

Did you check the power and length? 3.2 or 4.8 W/m. To reach 100W, you need 20 meters. The blue ones are fine, they shine their own light, but they are also weak.

William

Yes, I wrote you the power data from that site, but in reality, who knows. The price of ten Kryas is about twice as expensive as a simple MG. A radiator is needed for Krya (and it's big and expensive), so all together it will be more expensive than the MG constructor. Bunnies? Well, very often MG is installed for those "bunnies," T5 doesn't provide them. But in operation, yes, the diodes are much cheaper, we need to "cunkulate."

Elizabeth6302

By the way, with MG 150, the T5s are already diluted like a hare's spectrum. Now here's a question - I need a cover glass since I have four cats at home - I haven't figured out yet if there are any nuances or if it just serves as a cover and that's it?

Rachael

Marine aquariums should not be covered! Otherwise, all the dances around the world are for nothing!

Anthony

I really don't understand why to be so overly cautious? With zip ties, I mean? Well, they made it that way somewhere - just with ribs - so they probably calculated it... I arrived... so it turns out I can only mess around with the LL and make a lid... otherwise all my fish will be swimming in the aquarium in 5 minutes... it's been tested, one orange fish will be there even earlier than 3 minutes. Damn - just problems.

Matthew7977

You are being advised very correctly... When, due to a weak safety margin, the seams on the freshwater layer break, it results in a flood. And at sea, in addition to the flood, there is also a 100% chance of fire. We have already gone through this, and we sincerely do not wish this for you...

James3382

What kind of swimming cats do you have? Do you think they would also enjoy jumping into saltwater for fun? It's just that if all cats love to drink fresh water from the aquarium, maybe it would be easier with saltwater?

Melissa3820

Got it - buy silicone and you can put the ties right on top of the ribs??? If they were drinking water - let them get drunk, I don't care - there's a big risk that inside there will be... I'm at a dead end, honestly - it seemed like I figured everything out with the light - and now I have to mess with the lid...

Nicole263

I'll do just that. I also came up with a similar idea in a hurry. Or maybe just rig a grid with large cells on top so the cat doesn't slip through?

Anne4851

Some have the rim (like on the jewel - it's glued there), but the cat won't fall anywhere; you're not the only one with a cat - there are many photos on the logo where aquariums and cats are in front of them - I've never read about a cat diving into an aquarium.

Chad

I don't want you to read about this from me. The main thing is that there are options, I will think about it - for now, I will go read about MG again - it seems someone tried to power two 70W lamps from one 150W "power supply." It will be better - two 70W fixtures - the light distribution will be more even and I won't have to raise the fixture as high - I'm thinking about diving cats again.

Michelle104

it's a bad idea, if it starts - either the lamps will burn out quickly, or some other nonsense will happen. for two mg you need two sets of "guts" and two fixtures of 500w each.

Joshua

The main thing turned out to be that 70 watts live less than 150.

Charles894

So put one at 150 and supplement with T5 - it will be less hassle and cost, and it will be fine for your length.

Robert

Sanya, it turns out that with my 140 liters, I don't need T5s anymore - I'll use LED strips for additional lighting or put in 140 for the force-bandit marino-glow. It's there. I have my eye on this one - maybe I shouldn't complicate things and just get a ready-made light? We'll see... the main thing is that I've made a decision with your help and have two options.

Kristen2246

Why specifically to the ceiling?

Paul

You can attach them to the wall at the corners, it doesn't matter, the main thing is to hang them up, not to place them on the aquarium. By the way, they are heavy with the mist, especially if the ballast is built into the body.

David953

I still decided to make the console anyway - especially since you scared me that my aquarium is really weak in terms of strength.

Natasha7622

It's fine, just glue in the spacers and everything will be okay! I ordered mine, so I had it right away, but the second one (which is planned for the samp) wasn't available, even though I ordered it too, but I messed up. So it's better to hang the console and the san-san, since you'll have the mg; how will you adjust the height? Legs by 20-30 cm.

Brandon4517

I decided to monkey around like this. I liked that the height can be adjusted as needed.

John

It's also an option, but this way the pipes look more aesthetically pleasing. I think a rectangular frame for assembly won't be a problem. By the way, the height can also be adjusted.

Amy5070

Everything is going according to the plan approved by the forum. I ordered such an osmosis AURO-506P-2K from Akvake.ua - it will arrive in a day or two. I filled out the form and mentioned that I learned about them on the aquaforum - and Olga Kharitonova (the operator) immediately applied a 5% discount - I was pleasantly surprised. Oh, the corals are already being removed.

Jesse

San, please send me a private message with the phone number of the person you ordered the aquarium from - I want to get an idea of the price - does he understand the holes and shafts??? Because I don't understand it yet. Great!!! Yes-yes-yes, that means the aquarium won't be a problem. Well, I can handle that - I'll calculate it myself. I won't make the frame after all (that's my current thought) - I can just say that a slat 2 cm x 5 cm placed on edge is way better in terms of "deflection" than a beam 5x5. Or I'm also thinking of assembling a cabinet from furniture board - but dealing with it is a bit overwhelming for now.

Laura9093

I forgot to mention - my osmosis is arriving tomorrow.

Anthony7814

1. Yes, there is also Stockman and something else, but Durso is fine, the main thing is to make the pipes correctly later with valves and transitions for adjustment. 2. It will be about 45, I currently have 2-3 cm to the edge, but without wobble, with the shaft a little lower by 1-2 cm. I don't know. 3. Bad idea, T5 lamps 39W 85cm, 54W 115cm, so 110 is not great, better to go with the standard if you want more - 120. If it's MH, then at least 104, 106, 110 - there is no difference.

Erin2730

Well, they will do everything there (at Misha's) - I don't know how they will do it. I read about Dyurso - people are struggling with the bubbling, and the side pipe is not suitable, but it's somehow scary at the bottom. Now I'll read about Stockman.

Mark7376

If you're feeling anxious, you can additionally fence off the area with a shaft; it will relieve the pressure on the insertion point.

Shane

They will do it in the mine, and the piping under the stand (the drain and return branches) will also need to be figured out later. I don't think it matters whether it's on the side or at the bottom, as long as everything is done properly and there are no chips (cracks). However, if they make the bottom "triplex," then it's better on the side. There are a lot of silent durso overflows; the main thing is the transitions to a smaller diameter and the valve (from what I've read). Stockman is similar, but without a "spout."

Joseph

It's important to me - purely aesthetically - to have more lines of sight - but there's a pipe sticking out from the side - I still don't understand - why they don't do it on the back wall? Misha suggested triplex - like it's more reliable - but a simple 10 was planned.

Dawn6148

Is the back part behind? They make it, but mostly in cubes, and it is not comparable to the side; it carries more load, and the hole may reduce the safety margin. It might be stronger, I'm not sure, but I wouldn't drill "this triplex"; a hole in one thick piece would be more reliable. So for 250 liters, I think you don't need "triplex"; use a whole bottom of 10, 12, or 15 (but it will be expensive). Your dimensions are standard, not half a ton. I have an 8 mm bottom, just like the sides; there is a grid under the stones for ventilation, and the stones are secured—there is no point load, and nothing will fall.

Guy

Yes - the back. However, the bottom bears even more load than any side - and they are drilling in it.

Kevin3114

The bottom simply bears the load, as it rests on a flat, hard surface, which is probably why it is drilled. The side walls are also pushed outward, especially in long aquariums, and they bear different types of loads than the bottom, but these loads are greater. Sometimes, when there are no braces, the center of the aquarium is "bulging."

Cassandra7840

Logically!!! Then let it be the bottom - probably? Damn, the mine takes up a lot of space - then you have to fill it in with J.K. (living stones).

Alan273

People, don't get into the weeds. Drill where it's more convenient. Whether it's the bottom, the side, or the back. Holes are usually near the edge of the glass and don't pose any special dangers. Most of my aquariums are not drilled through the back (see the album). The three-meter one even twice. So make the overflow where it's convenient.

Michelle1505

Great!!! The back then - definitely!!!

Kevin

Guys, in practice, which size of the two is more "popular" in sales? Or both? Maybe it makes sense to build a 1200-liter aquarium? That would be 300 liters with a height and width of 0.5x0.5. Or am I already being driven to gigantism?

Heather

I purchased "wood" for the cabinet - furniture board - Beech, 18 mm, glued = 750.00. I miscalculated, I need to buy one more board 150. The cabinet has internal dimensions of D900-H800-W500 - guys, is this a normal cabinet?

Catherine

for 100x50x50? then make the cabinet 100, there's never enough space in it. don't forget to make the tabletop a couple of centimeters longer and wider. the height seems normal, it depends on how you will look at the aquarium - sitting, standing, lying down. take a tape measure and a pencil - mark the dimensions of the aquarium and the cabinet on the wall where it will stand, and then check the length of the aquarium, the volume, and the height. p.s. I drew on the wall, adjusted the height, then built the cabinet.

Jessica9188

Well then. 1. In terms of the load-bearing capacity of the stand, it's better to make it shorter than the length of the aquarium - that way, less of the countertop will be working as a "saddle." 2. The size of the panels allows for a height of 900 mm without trimming. Of course, there will be a 10 cm margin on each side - a bottle of beer will fit. Right now, the freshwater tank is 70 cm high - I'm tired of chasing the cat off the stool to sit and watch the fish - I decided to make it taller. Well, this is definitely not an option for me - where "it" will be placed, in a 30 sq.m. room, it will weigh one and a half tons and get lost.

Ashley5975

Did you write this based on the fact that glass does not transmit ultraviolet light? Or for some other reasons? Can you provide more details? After all, protective acrylic glass can be used, as is done in many lamps.

Natalie

Really? Why? What UV from LL lamps? Or other points?

Chad231

Guys, can't you figure out why cover glasses are not recommended for marine aquariums? It should be clear without any explanations... Think about it, doesn't logic give you any hints, or do you just read recommendations without thinking?

Jacqueline5976

I really don't have any logic to guide me - it can't - I'm a total newbie - that's why I'm asking for advice in this thread. Even UV doesn't tell me anything - it doesn't penetrate more than 2 mm under water, even without glass - I learned that in school. For aeration and gas exchange - it also doesn't make sense - so just point it out briefly, I'm perceptive - what's the essence?

Curtis9143

Oh, that's not relevant. Free gas exchange, an important aspect, plus the light transmission capacity of the covers will reduce the emitted lux by about 30-40 percent, and with splashing, it can be up to 70... And finally, in the absence of a refrigerator, such an aquarium will heat up to 35-38 degrees on the very first day.

Michelle104

I thought it was some kind of magic. Almost all factory aquariums come with lids, and the lamps are covered with a hood. This is because the hood can be regularly wiped down, while cleaning the lamp and reflector is much more problematic, and unnecessary evaporation on them is not desirable. Moreover, my cover glass gets hot from the lamps, and if I remove the glass, it will heat the water. The more open the aquarium is, the more water evaporates and the more foreign smells and dust from the air get in. Of course, there should be air circulation, but not to an extreme.

Nicole263

Everyone answered.

Tonya

Light is clear. We fight for every watt - therefore, the cover glass is the only enemy. And gas exchange is a trickster.

Michael3221

...For every watt. And especially in summer, for every degree downwards, in the absence of a refrigerator.

Charles894

I will find out how much the refrigerator will cost - although I have a powerful Daikin blowing in "this" room and it's +23, with +40 outside, every extra source of heat is felt - and this pot will heat up too. Today I will finish assembling the cabinet - I will start painting. I already mentioned that I am making it from furniture board (beech) - guys, beech is an incredibly hard and durable material, you can't drive in a self-tapping screw without pre-drilling - it breaks the head, I've already ruined two drill bits. It turns out to be an incredibly strong and heavy construction - I can take photos if anyone is interested.

Stephanie9175

The fact that the lamp will protrude slightly may bother you, but in terms of lighting, the angles will be illuminated because of this, which is a plus. In my opinion, the depth of the aquarium with these dimensions (55 cm) will be even better, and it's not just about the liters, but about the perception of depth.

Vanessa

Will this somehow interfere with the visualization in terms of not obstructing a comfortable view of the aquarium? Thank you so much for the advice - I intuitively thought the same.

Caroline1599

It needs to be seen... If it's done properly, then unlikely.

Jerry

but a set of markers is much better than one cool Parker. The analogy, I think, is clear. If I had the choice, I would first consider T5s, and then LEDs, plasmas, and MH.

Cynthia6578

Do you think aquariums contain only and it's fine, but without mg probably the height is better at 50. Here with T5, and San-Sany and Dai-light (post 209), and the size is the same, 6-8 T5 lamps 39W and it will be fine too, but maybe you won't be able to plant many picky species (those that need good strong light).

Amy1672

It will always be more expensive to change later than to take it right away. Regarding the LEDs, I only calculated the cost of the diodes for such an aquarium, without drivers, and I immediately felt like drinking and a lump in my throat rolled in. 100 pcs. 3W x 60. each = 6000. I asked to calculate the light for T5s for my aquarium - holding my breath - I await the verdict.

Ronald5720

San, so the height will be 500 mm - you yourself approved this size at the beginning of the topic. I definitely won't be planting and starting anything particularly finicky.

Brandy

1000x500x550 - usually the dimensions are length-width-height, but why is the width 55? Do you think it will make a difference for you? By the way, the standard sizes are 100x50x50, 100x60x50(60), 120x60x60, which are the most optimal.

Jessica5016

So this is Sanya - I already know him from this forum - he had trouble with this computer later. Guys - Sanya's cabinet is divided into two sections, and the sump is on the left, with something on the right, probably for topping up - I can also reinforce my cabinet with a brace like that - I thought the brace would get in the way - actually, I made a double countertop, but with the brace, it will look even better. Will a 40 cm by 50 cm sump be okay??? Please share your opinion quickly - I can still install this brace before it's too late.

Richard

recommended - wider - better - 550 cm. + one more T5 will fit extra.

Catherine

There are no photos of his lamp "during assembly" in this forum. What kind of spacer? I don't know. There are many of them. Copy the photo for yourself and highlight it in red in Paint or draw it, just specify which one exactly. 40x50 and by how much? What is 40 and what is 50? If the length and width are small, only the compartment for the foam will be 20 cm long "across the facade."

Brent7831

The matter is settled - I'm sorry!!! I looked into it in detail - for Sanya, it's not a solid partition - just a post.

Guy

Yes, and the sump is whole there, not in two parts, the stand, and it would be good for you to insert it (so that it fits, and the doors will close neatly on it). It was necessary to roughly calculate the future sump and drill the cabinet (for drainage, return, ventilation, and cooler) before applying the varnish, so that later you wouldn't have to deal with the details (opening where you drilled). The cabinet will be on wheels, or is it temporary?

Jeffery7866

I ordered a marine aquarium from Misha at AKVALIFE - I'm satisfied, I have a Durso. I understand you also order from Akvalife? If you want, you can come and take a look at my system, I live on 4 fountains. We can also think about the light fixture together - I'll show you how I modified my Chinese SAN SAN.

Robert

Aqualife - seams a la Aquatica

Loretta5483

I wouldn't say I'm satisfied - the aquarium is neatly glued - they've been gluing aquariums there for about 10 years - he has a steady hand and plenty of experience...

Robin

I'm not talking about that, the silicone mold on the seam "like Aquatica." I got it there too, but without holes - it was originally a cichlid tank.

Christopher1252

a..............exactly Aquatica :-)

Andrew4194

I sent you a message privately.

Frank7213

so you really want to drill - the bottom and the shaft? the side? the back? (I wouldn't, though...). by the way, you'll also check the shaft - you'll figure it out.

Jeffrey

Sanya, you didn't say what exactly you weren't going to drill? I'm leaning towards drilling the back wall for now - I don't really want to drill the bottom. So, what are we going to drill? Guys, what are we going to drill???

Christina9947

I wouldn't drill the back. For now, I'll be drilling my "overhead overflow," and later, when I set up a bigger one and move, I'll drill the bottom and install the shaft. Take a 12mm bit for the bottom and drill two holes (or three), I can't say how many or what diameter is better, I haven't dealt with that yet. You'll see the "Alek-style" shaft. The back is very large, and I'm not inclined to drill it at all, although I've seen such projects.

Kristen2246

Sanya, don't worry, you'll see how I have it and decide. I think Alik will glue the shaft for you, drill two holes in the bottom of the aquarium, then glue the pipes at your place, and everything will be just fine. He made a normal Durso for me, there's no noise at all.

Christopher1252

Well, that's fine, it will be 100 by 60 and 50, a depth of 50 can be well illuminated with T5 lamps. I don't quite understand what kind of stand you've built for yourself. I'd like to see a photo.

Shelby3182

in the 117th post of this thread, a photo of the nightstand

April3499

There was on the previous page.

Thomas1044

Here

Collin

and ......saw.........understood

Andrea8397

Make a shaft in the middle of the aquarium, and the shaft is not that small in size - about 10x15 or 15x15, so your 3 cm doesn't matter, especially if there will be two holes - the glass is not drilled all the way to the edge, there is also a margin. Make it 58, why does it have to be 60 in width? There is a difference of 10-20 liters, what difference does it make if it's 55, 56, 58, or 60? From the point of load distribution, you need a brace in the center for a weight of 400 kg.

Melinda2740

Friends - what are we rushing for - especially - some "Groundhog Day." Really, why so close - let it be 55 for the sake of simplicity. And about shifting the shaft - that's actually a thought!!!

Jeremy3637

It's fine. No, shift it either to the center of the aquarium (along the back) so that it can be decorated with stones properly, or it will look fine in the corner. As a last resort, you can move the aquarium to the side by 2-3 cm so that it doesn't bump into the edge.

Angela7060

Thank you for your hospitality and detailed consultation - today I visited him to see his masterpiece - it's quite a thing, an aquarium like his!!! And he is a wonderful person!!! Thanks. So, after the visit, my thoughts have settled down more or less - I'm going to Akvalife to Misha tomorrow to make a deposit for the aquarium - just don't push me - for the entire oil tank aquarium - for the entire countertop aquarium - 1200x500x600, I will additionally reinforce the stand. And I plan to place a shaft in the center, with a hole in the bottom - what do you think?

Devon107

Don't be scared - what did you want to say? Should I approve or not? Otherwise, I'm going to take apart the cabinet. My wife put the barbus fish up for sale - maybe she'll sell it and we'll have enough for the light.

Matthew1280

Maybe then we can attach "wings" to the stand to place an aquarium about two meters long, also made of 10mm? Or 12mm?

Sharon

Everything is fine, everything is normal. It was just interesting to "read" emotions. Once I saw the hill, I wanted to mold one just like it - the height increased, I noticed. Just think again about the mine in the middle. After that, global rearrangements will no longer be possible.

Bonnie

Yarik, for that length (the design of the cabinet won't allow it), we can only have either a shaft in the middle (or shifted 15 cm from the corner, which I think is not very good) or a side drain - there’s no third option without modifying the cabinet.

Bethany

I installed the edge banding - now it's going to be tough - tomorrow I'll put another shield, the main thing is that they don't run out in the epic. I'll also put it on the countertop - I'll remove the lacquer, glue it down, and tighten it with screws-screws-screws.

Amy9618

It seems that there is only one option. The central shaft. The emphasis was on the fact that this decoration (shaft-residential complex) cannot be moved anywhere if there is a need to fundamentally change the decor. Over time, some forum members mentioned that they would not replicate the central drain if they were to design the system now.

Joseph6461

I would make two holes in the back wall at the edges, with small overflow pockets. I would create a water inlet in the center. This would provide good circulation and would also look aesthetically pleasing. For the outlet, a hole is actually not needed! You can run plastic pipes from the top at the back. I usually create several outlets and do not glue the end sections - this allows for some flexibility in adjusting the flow with the feed pump.

Joseph1346

So in the back??? Just like I want? Are you sure it won't burst? "I'm scared, Slava! (c) A 10mm glass is planned. What do you mean? Make several drains??? Why did they ask me about three holes? Apparently, someone has done it more than once - then according to the logic above, there should be just one hole - for suction - right??? And where do the other two go? Like flutes????

Mario

three holes - drain, emergency, and return, and there, whoever wants, does as they please. some only need the drain, and the return for the aquifer some need the drain and emergency and someone has the return "sticking out" from the shaft so it turns out - from one to three p.s. how much money have you already wasted on the cabinet? wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to just make a metal frame?

Stuart

Yes, like in the bathroom, the principle of operation is the same: a pipe, also in a shaft, 1-2 cm high to the edge of the aquarium, and without a Durso standpipe. It is used for emergency drainage of water in the aquarium - if the Durso gets clogged, the water from the aquarium does not drain, and the pump from the return compartment will continue to pump, which without an emergency drain will lead to water overflowing over the edge of the display aquarium. How often the Durso gets clogged - who knows. Whether an emergency drain is needed - it's up to you, not everyone installs it.

Angela7060

Nooo - well, I probably need something like that - but apparently it will lower the water level in the aquarium - you can't make such a hole right at the top - so it means I need to lower it...

Sara4035

It is made just up to "the very top," it should be higher than the Durso, and the hole for it is drilled in the shaft, in the bottom, and from there just a pipe sticks out, like they do with a side drain - I don't know.

Amber6362

Ah-aaaaah, now I understand - everything was thought out well, even before us. I still looked into the info on Durso and I'm leaning towards not complicating things and making it "in the bottom," in the corner and with a "hazard light" - well, the wings stick out 130 mm. I'll put neat elbows at 45 degrees there and lead it to the stand. Just with the side Durso - a smaller volume is taken from the aquarium under the shaft - ohhh man... guys please - just tell me something else - to get rid of the doubts.

Tina

It's not about the wings and knees, but the fact that your shaft in the corner, at 120 cm long, can simply hit a vertical post, so it's hard to tell you anything without knowing its dimensions. And where is the back wall? Is it at the very end or is there a setback there too? Take a marker and draw the shaft on the countertop to see where it is, where it goes, and what is obstructing it. The dimensions are about 15x15, I'm not sure, maybe 20x20, ask. And here's the aquarium (a bit larger) with an offset shaft (just a real-time project). What about the bottom? Did you also take ten or twelve?

Dennis

Sanya, it's all about the wings. Nothing just lands on the edge by chance - and the dimensions are known down to the millimeter - in general, everything will be decided on Monday - Alik will come to work, and I will talk to him - he's a seasoned pro. Alik is going through a great sorrow, he buried his son 40 days ago - the boy was 16 years old - what a tragedy... it's even uncomfortable to bother him with this...

Maria

Buddy, I read and thought about your advice again - thanks once more - but when you say two holes, do you mean one for the drain and the other for the "emergency" as Sanya already explained to me? And specifically in the back wall - not in the side wall - just to be sure, I'm asking again.

Matthew

Just measure everything accurately so that the dimensions in the picture and the stand match. Make it 55 by 118 to have some margin, and place the shaft in the center, or slightly off-center; a corner one probably won't work, and even if it does... whatever, attaching the corners is a hassle, and it's better to make it so that it just drains straight into the sump, without bends, corners, etc. The simpler, the fewer seams and potential problems in the future. What about the lighting? T5 54W? Homemade or Chinatown? I would have made a 100x50x50 aquarium with the shaft in the corner (which is what I was planning the stand for), and it would have been less hassle. At first, how much did you want? 120? And now it's already over 300.

Michael826

It is indeed on the back wall. BOTH TO DRAIN! Please take a look at photo number 11 in my profile album. It is done exactly that way. The length of the aquarium is 2.8 meters, and the volume is 1300 liters.

Danielle8118

I would recommend two fixtures with four bulbs each. So, are you planning to drill again - side or back? You don't need two drains, your length is small, and the return is indeed through the top. What kind of photo do you want? Side overflow or return through the top? Decide on what you will be drilling, and Alik and Misha will drill it for you. Why do you need offsets - no offsets - the main thing is that they are aware of what and how.

Adam

Will the lighting be more even? If possible - then the back. If not - then the bottom. One "hole" - drain. Second "hole" - emergency - you enlightened me on this matter. Return through the top. And if someone could show the overflow in the back wall - I would be really happy - I would show it to Alik, if he hasn't done that yet. So I'm trying to figure it out. And if they are not aware of the "back wall" - I would just tell them where to drill and the dimensions of the shaft and show them a diagram or a photo.

Eric5208

Yes, more evenly, especially if you don't hang it but place it in the aquarium. The emergency drain is definitely possible "in the shaft," but when it's "from the side" - who knows if it's there or not. The return in the photo in the first post - the white pipe at the top left - I can't find a picture showing the entire pipe layout. Here in post 10, the drain is visible from the side and the return as well. Here is the drain on the "facade," but there were no other options there.

Patricia1746

Here, look - it's just your option. The overflow on the right in the back wall, the inlet on the left with a plastic pipe. Circulation throughout the aquarium. 1 - this is roughly how the pipe runs from the pump 2 - overflow pocket with a drain. And the overall plan. P.S. Post 171 - you understood everything correctly! Do it as you have in your drawing, just with a hole in the back wall. Nothing will break, don't worry.

Joshua

2 for 4 is cheaper than 1 for 8. Are you sure you need two in the back wall??? Maybe one is enough, or you might end up drilling for a return - then it will be three. Think about it. It's not a flute, just a nozzle, sometimes it can be flattened; I'm going to install a spinner (deflector) for myself. The pipes are probably 1/2 for the return, and 3/4 for the drain, 1/2 for my volume.

Earl

Damn it, Sanya, you explained the emergency light to me yourself, and now it's not needed.

Scott9892

I told you at the bottom, not in the "back." I haven't seen two holes next to each other in the rear window with such an overflow (check with Misha and Alik). P.S. And if there is no auto-fill and everything is calculated correctly, then the emergency stop is not needed at all, and I very rarely hear about the drain getting clogged. Besides, you don't have neighbors below to flood. Even if there is an auto-fill from the tank (make it about 20 liters and that's it).

Angela

Well, during the spill at the bottom, there are also holes in that shaft. In general, I will talk to Alik.

Brent8919

One hole is enough! I don't make emergency exits anywhere either. You just put a comb in the pocket and that's it! The size of the pocket is to fit the hand to install the Durso. It's better to make it 3/4 after all. P.S. "Overflow" is where the "Supply" drains - where it fills up.

Michelle5859

4.5 cubic meters per hour is low... What kind of pump will be used? As for the size of the pocket, honestly, I never thought much about it - I made it so that it was convenient to install the pipes and so that it was actually possible to get the fish that ended up there.

Charles

Got it - then I'll do 3/4!!! I don't know what pump it will be... whatever I can afford will be it.

Sarah

Alek glues very precisely, millimeter by millimeter, without mistakes.

Jennifer

Has the thickness of the glass changed? Let them break it down into details: - price of the glass with cutting - hole - edge processing (if any) - price of silicone - labor cost They should provide this information to you. Then everything will become clear. P.S. Just roughly estimated that if the glass is 10 mm and the EDGES ARE POLISHED, and the silicone is of Den Braven quality, then the price turns out to be quite reasonable. They probably missed something in the first option...

Selena4467

No, it hasn't changed - it's still a size 10. Plus 20 cm in length and 10 cm in width, and plus 1000, it turned out. The thing is, I am a polite and delicate person, but when I sense that someone wants to take advantage of me, I change before their eyes into a completely different person. I'm afraid of making unnecessary "calculations" there, while I have the desire to take the advance and turn to other people.

Breanna9982

I just need to know that this is a normal price and not inflated. It seems to have eased my mind right away. I don't know if they polish it or not, but they definitely grind it - I'll ask tomorrow what kind of silicone they use.

Jill1815

The price is reasonable - Misha is not overcharging.

Jessica5348

The first price was cheap, something was not calculated. A year and a half ago, my 10-liter cost 800 without holes and other things (but I took an 8-liter), and this one is 90x40x40 or 140 liters, so it's the same 5 and a bit per liter, which is what you get at the second price. I don't know how much tubes and holes cost, but one comb costs around 100, so 500 (especially since it hasn't changed) is quite realistic.

Julia

150 "branded" - I found out. Thank you, guys - you calmed me down - I was getting worked up - I thought they were pulling my leg. Guys - I'm confused that I won't have enough drainage with a half-inch pipe - is it really too little to have five volumes of water per hour through a half-inch? After three-quarters, 8.3 volumes per hour will be circulating - so what should I say to have them installed???

Crystal4879

They will then install a valve and narrow it down to prevent the Durso from gurgling, so put 3/4 on top, and you can use 1/2 under the valve. For the return, it's also preferable to have 1/2 with a valve. Not too much, just enough to control it with the valve, and it's easier to achieve uniformity in draining and filling with valves. But what if 1/2 isn't enough? Will you have to drill again? And those are the maximum figures; in reality, it will be less. P.S. You will be confused when you reach the numbers for the necessary streams you need to pump.

Stacey4437

Even with maximum figures, A. Ov writes about 2-3 volumes per hour - and here it's 5!!! - 3/4 is actually 8.3 volumes - maybe there's another hidden meaning - like it grows over or something? I, of course, am a novice in the "sea," but the option of sloshing is more likely in pipes of larger diameter, from the calculated - as a practitioner, a "pipeline worker" with solid experience, I say - that's why they use a smaller diameter later on - you can't fool hydrodynamics.

Luis3725

1/2 on the drain, for my volume, 200-250 at most. for yours 3/4 that's why they narrow it down with a transition near the faucet, so it doesn't slosh, kind of creating a funnel - I don't know how to explain it to you properly - I read about it on the logo. I gave you a link to the topic of Zhenya Yeshmalayev (where the facade is drilled), did you see the diameter of the pipe there? and there it's 250 liters.

Phyllis

Sanya-Nepasya-Alik will make holes of the required diameter and will properly glue the pipes.

Noah1632

I consider particle board - in "important" load-bearing structures - especially "Lviv" I never considered - however, look at Polish aquariums with stands - and these are aquariums of 700-800 liters, they are placed on such stands - and I have seen how they are bought and especially how people pay attention to the "design" of the stands - well, there are certainly many cross walls, but still... I won't repeat what has been said - about furniture boards - glued - there's a lot of information online - I just recommend to everyone - while it still costs real money. And metal is not a panacea...

Gabriel

There are combs that cost 100, and many make them from acrylic – it takes about 5 minutes of work. The price may not be cheap, but they are made to specific dimensions, and if you have access to a machine or (I forgot what the manual one is called), then it's just wonderful. I'm not aware of the price of the couplings; it might be hard to find them. As for your "wings," I'm not worried since you know what you've done, I'm speaking figuratively.

Daniel4967

San, what the heck, why should I look for something cheaper? Misha's aquarium is quite reasonably priced. Out of respect for them, I will buy the AquaMedic for 150. I will order the sample from them and ask for a discount for loyalty to the company. P.S. About the wings and the cabinet, I'm not worried. I just gave you the info for consideration. When it's settled in your mind, it will come in handy in the future. You advised me so much, and I'm very grateful for that. I'm trying to do a little something in return for you regarding the cabinet.

Laurie3842

Where did you already make the "Argus"? Or will there be fresh ones swimming there?

Carrie1606

I don't know, I "cut" the partitions, I read that water makes less noise. Also, don't forget to drill the supply pipe (i.e. "diffuser"), I drilled at the level of the bottom of the "crest." You will need a pump similar to Eheim 1260 or 1262, or simpler analogs, because those 200 and 250 USD - Aquamedic, New Jet, or China - Atman or Halera.

Brian6895

I don't know about the slanted partitions. It certainly won't be worse. The drop is just so small that... Is the outlet of the supply pipe planned to be submerged deeply? If so, then it naturally needs to be siphoned. Although you can just submerge them in water at an angle of 1/2 or 3/4 of the diameter.

Nicole

I installed a Khudorovsky deflector for myself at the outlet, so I lowered it by about 8 cm, that much the sump didn't accept, I drilled at the level of the bottom of the crests at the drain (2-2.5 cm) from the surface, it fit in there quite easily.

Mark

I ordered a skimmer from Vitaly, he recommended this one - I'm not rushing things, I haven't figured everything out yet. I have the cabinet, the aquarium is in production, and I ordered the skimmer. For now, that's all - now I will deal with the lighting and read about sumps.

Allison

Buddy, stop "rolling out" on me - you're hurting me. Yes, I understand, I probably express myself awkwardly - please forgive me. That's it - now I understand - Thank you!!!! I will coordinate with you - as long as I don't annoy you with silly questions and you don't send me away... Yarik - so I understood correctly - the partition should not be made of glass, but of a grid??? A solid partition - a grid??? That is, it is completely permeable and the level in both chambers is the same? What mesh cell size should it be so that algae don't get into the other compartment? Should it be made of plexiglass??? Again, what should be the diameter of the holes?

Joseph

Agreed No, we've already invested so much effort that we'll see it through to the end no matter what. I think we can use plexiglass. Any convenient diameter will do - the heteromorpha lives like a sponge and doesn't really get into the gaps. Everything about the level is correct.

Lisa

Can you imagine - this is just the stage of assembling - how will I entertain you when I start launching??? I will look for a piece of plexiglass - it's been tested, they make aquariums from it - I'll drill some holes - I think I'll glue the plexiglass with silicone??? Yarik - do you have any comments about the pen that I ordered from Vitaly??? Is it okay for my jar?

Noah1632

Plex is acrylic, plexiglass? If yes, then "Epicenter," department 90, there is. You won't glue it. It's normal if Vitalik redoes it. What pump will be on it? Atman or Laguna?

Brooke3987

Yes. San, why wouldn't I glue it??? Silicone, isn't it indifferent? It takes whatever you want. Moreover, I've already read how aquariums are glued - a gap of a millimeter and I'll fill it with silicone. Or do you have different information? And what should I make this grid from then? Drilling glass - no way. Laguna - there Vitala himself wrote that it's a tested pump.

Leah

You can't install plexiglass on silicone. I would just glue in guiding pieces of glass and insert the plexiglass partition into them like a groove. A foam sealant will work - Vitaly's hands are in the right place.

Brent7831

The idea is great!!! Hmm, I didn't realize that plexiglass doesn't stick to silicone... Damn, I have ribs glued into the aquarium from which I will make the sump - I need to think of something clever.

Melissa3820

What thickness of acrylic are you planning to get, 10 mm? 1.5, 2, or 2.5 mm will be enough, and it bends - you can insert it into the groove of the guides by bending it slightly, instead of from the top, and the ribs won't get in the way.

Ricardo7341

In fact, I understood that this partition is just to prevent algae from getting into the compartment with the pump, right? Guys, what if we make a similar one between the foam filter and the algae filter??? It would create one huge compartment in volume.

Thomas1044

Yes, mainly to prevent the algae from getting sucked into the pump. No, let the skimmer be separate. The lagoon is good, but not "budget-friendly." Don't worry about the sump until the skimmer arrives.

Jason9385

San, be a friend, can you briefly explain why there is only overflow where the pen is? What’s going on there - I swear the search is already red - I found very little specific info about the samples - I’m starting to understand intuitively, but not completely.

Ryan7682

San, the dimensions of the pen are already known. In the garage (I went to check), there is a ton of 5 mm acrylic - there will be a grid.

Joshua8425

I didn't quite understand your line of thought. Is it the overflow of the aquarium? It's not where the skimmer is; the overflow is at the top of the aquarium. Maybe it's the drain? Why are the skimmer and the drain in the same compartment? Shouldn't they be in different ones? Why is there only a drain and a skimmer in the compartment? The skimmer isn't small; nothing else will fit, and having an algae scrubber with the skimmer in one compartment is nonsense.

Mitchell3177

Damn, you didn't get it - I meant why the partition between the foam filter and the algae filter should be impermeable - only overflow into the algae filter through the top of the partition - why not make the same kind of grid as between the algae filter and the return pump - it would create one big sump.

Joseph

Redesigned to the same dimensions - I discussed this with Vitala - the sole is indeed huge - but a pump is installed on it. I will increase this chamber by 2 cm - to 37 cm, while the width will remain 17 cm - Vitala said it will be tight, but the calcium mixer will fit - the reactor won't. What about the robots??? Damn - I'm even more confused. I thought this compartment should just be a bit higher in level compared to the algae tank and the return, and match the sizes and level of the foam separator. I'm starting to see clearly... Thank you, brother!!!

Rodney

The pen is separated by a partition so that the water level in the compartment remains constant, regardless of the evaporated water. Regarding the "clogged drain." Has anyone ever encountered this? If so, please share your experience. I have launched at least a dozen seas, and it has never happened. With a grid in the pocket, the situation is extremely unlikely!

Tammy2040

I feel, guys, that the freshwater aquarium from which the sump is supposed to be made won't work. It's 50 cm tall, and the foam from Vitaly is 40 cm. Will it be convenient to reach in there to clean the bowl? Or should we raise it on a stand?

Rodney3101

How high is the height in the stand? I told you that the partitions need to be 20-25 cm, you don't need to take out the entire foam, just the cup, it can be removed. Well, if you want to make a new sample, then it's not a problem. And that Argus can also be trimmed with a "mop" if desired. But in general, wait for the foam, then you can figure it out.

Katherine

The cabinet is 760 mm inside - clear height. San - I just thought - I will call Vitaly now, I paid for the order - so I think maybe something more expensive but - already by the size of the platform - should I ask him??? And is it possible to cut the aquarium down in height??? How is that - or rather with a turbine or what???

Bethany

the cup will just fly by the foam is normal, the pump is good, the price is great - why complicate things further when this one is suitable for your volume you can, but you don't need to. at least until the foam and aquarium arrive, you'll see on site. more volume reserve. cutting - sometimes it can crack. no, not with a turbine, with a glass cutter on a guide (it looks like a mop - that's what many call it)

Leonard

The damn Chinese should use T5 54W for 120cm, and here it will be a "checkerboard." 1. T5 doesn't need to be raised high. Fish won't be fed if you climb there (and this happens rarely after creating the whole "design"). 2. Yes, there's a single crappy one for all the lamps. It's not necessary to change all the parts at the start; it can be done over time or gradually. The lamps will also be fine for the initial period, just add actinics. Calculate everything considering the upgrade (the total) and compare it with 6 T5 54W, and decide there. As an option, two of those. Well, or, but the price leaves much to be desired, and I'm not sure about the quality.

Tricia7885

I didn't understand anything - your keyboard is acting up. Both options are nonsense? The one in the quote is better?

Alejandro

What's jumping? Maybe I hit it while editing the post. It's all nonsense, it's China. 8 at 39W and 6 at 54W - almost the same. The question is different - what do you want to change (immediately or not), how do you understand electricity (yourself or someone else), how much money do you have, and what do you want in the end. 4 at 39 and 3 at 54 - wider, space for four lamps, better after the upgrade (but what the upgrade will turn into and whether it's worth it, who knows).

Julie4738

You seem a bit confused today - I don't understand all your phrases. In electricity, "I can do it myself" - if necessary - changing the parts doesn't require much brainpower - the main thing is to find them. If the reflectors are crap, then making them myself is already a hassle; the plan was to use mirrored acrylic, but that's a silly idea, I've already thought it through. What I want is average-level light - for starters - and I can't afford 500 euros at this stage.

Collin

Cool lamp, but the timers there reset during long power outages, which I really don't like. About the reflectors, it seems they didn't skimp. Polished aluminum. Sanya, just between us, I've already saved 300 bucks on lighting.

James5032

Sand from Vitaly, 1mm fraction (not the finest) - just what you need!

Brooke

How much should I take from him???? He had 100 kg left yesterday - if anything, I'll reserve it - so he can send it along with the foam.

Sharon

Well, just send him your aquarium specs, he will calculate it for you - 2-3-4 cm should be enough. I have about three, but there's also a grid lying there (13-15 kg for my bottom size).

Christopher1774

I booked 40 kg - it will come with the foam pad. 5 cm = 36 kg - to make it even, I had to take 40. Sanya - I can give you 4 kg for free...

Angela6489

What have I done to you? Adding 4 kg of sand will cause a soft reset for me or possibly just cyan. No, thanks, that's enough. I've already pumped out a couple of kilograms, about 3 cm is just enough for me.

Thomas5021

wrote in a private message

Kathryn514

Just request photos of the reflector - if there is one for six lamps like in the sauna - then who knows, and wait for Login's calculation, what are you calculating - 6x54 T5? Or 8x54? Here are their drivers.

Christopher8654

Of course, I will wait - even if it's 50 bucks more expensive, I will get it from him since he's nearby and seems "one of us." I'm considering 6x54 watts.

Helen

A labyrinth is not needed if there is a good drain that doesn't push bubbles into the sump. In general, this scheme won't work. The drain and return sections need to be swapped, with the drain on the right and the return on the left. This has been tested from personal experience.

Michelle5859

I read it carefully, and a bunch of potential silly questions disappeared from A to Z. It's a lot to read, but it's interesting—definitely for beginners. Now I know about "hydrogen sulfide" from supposedly a thick layer of sand.

Kevin

The funniest thing is that all my aquariums are organized exactly like that - drain on the right, return on the left... But what will change if I switch them? Apparently, the subconscious principle of the clock hands comes into play... I agree about the foam.

Emma

The issue is not which side the drain is on, but the positioning of the "maze" glasses in relation to the flow of water. If the water dives under the glass, it easily carries the bubble, which also tends to rise. The water must spill over the first partition and descend, while the bubble remains at the top.

Elizabeth

Yeah, I looked at the scheme. It really is a pointless maze with that kind of movement. That is, half of the barriers (the ones on the left) are simply unnecessary.

Joshua448

I looked at it poorly, only one partition is not needed, the second one on the right, and the return should be exactly on the left, then everything will be correct. This is what he is trying to explain to you. Also, the partition on the right should be a few centimeters higher than the second partition on the left.

Michelle1662

Friends - who doesn't have an air separator in their sump - is the bubble pushing? Or do the current foamers not suffer from this? In general, should I have one or not? I always advocate for simplifying the design.

Lee

There will be no bubbles at the output of the foam generator.

Vanessa6144

I ordered a 6xT5 lamp at 54W. And a refractometer. I'm spending money somewhere, but all I have is my cabinet without fronts (for now).

Scott9892

In our business, phrases like "where am I spending my money" don't count... And you will still have to spend a lot, the sea loves that... if it loves it too...

Sharon

I-in-the-sense-that - besides the cabinet - there's nothing to touch with my hands. Everything is on the way or in production. Off-topic: My wife caught me today "laundering money from the family budget" in the amount of 3000, and gently asked - has anyone sent you anything yet, they will take you and throw you away. I replied with dignity that I am sending money to different recipients - they can't all get it at the same time.

Kathryn514

and this has not been noticed yet

Melissa2062

Offtopic There is no doubt - I have read quite a bit about them - only my wife does not read this forum. But if today I hadn't heard a specific price for the "floor lamp" - I was already planning to send money to China - I even filled out half of the form in the store.

Scott9892

Off-topic My too... And this, comrades, is pleasing... (M.S. Gorbachev)

Kellie

I got a nice little tump - I like it!

Wendy8540

Offtopic Powerful... And when it becomes aquas, it will be "hide" altogether...

Michele

Well, that's cool. But something will have to be drilled for ventilation - either the facades or the other sides, and at least one propeller needs to be installed. Although if the pipes are at the back, it makes more sense to drill there. Will you be lining the inside with soundproofing (like isolon)?

Brent5588

Guys, here's the thing. I read that many have "socks" on the drain pipe and they often get clogged - a siphon helps. I probably need both a sock and a siphon, right? Please share your expert opinions before it's too late! P.S. I ordered a TDS meter, it will arrive on Monday.

Rachel

The transfer to "bags" has nothing to do with it. The transfer is separate, and the bag is separate. They do not affect each other's work.

James3382

In this topic, it was expressed that the "emergency light" is not needed - it was decided not to make it, but in case the bag is put on the drain in the sump and it gets clogged, all the sump will be pumped into the aquarium... with a return pump - something like that...

Tanner

Well, don't put on the bag, or rather, don't tie it tightly to the pipe; just let the pipe be submerged in the bag, and when the bag gets clogged, water will flow over the top of the bag. And why do you even need it at all?

Christopher3770

I don't know. I read debates on the forum - many have it and it filters well - but many say it's better to siphon every six months - and since I'm not yet a practitioner - I decided to play it safe with a siphon - what if I want a bag? Or is it really not that necessary????

Brianna

Off-topic Don't mess with your head with all that crap. First, edit everything, make sure it works properly, and then think about the bag, whether you need it or not. Everything should work great without it, and if something goes wrong, even if you hang ten bags, it won't matter...

Emma

I got it all - Thank you!!! Just the bag requires a "hazard light" - but as it is, I’m not changing the plan - I’m not drilling the hazard light. P.S. The aquarium is glued - tomorrow I’m going to agree on the "glass" and the hole on site - I’m making a 3/4 drain for my 340 gross - or should I go for an inch and install a return pump for all the oil???

Kenneth7331

Three quarters is quite enough, why such a huge pipe, and even for 340 liters.

Jennifer

Suddenly, they decided to buy my barbus tank - money was freed up for a return pump. Guys, can you recommend which one to get????

Sara

Take the aquamedic OCEAN RUNNER.

Andrew7823

Somewhere on the forum, I came across information that there are pumps with power adjustment - is this essential??? Or is it better to control the pressure with a valve (tap) at the outlet?

Phillip9722

You will adjust more or less with the crane at the exit.

John5528

you can also use this and that although maybe it's enough this and that but it's better to choke the first ones with a faucet than to run out later

Wesley

Oh no, Sanya - I can't handle this one from the quote - rather, it's just too expensive. Your first option and what you suggested is fine for me!!! The buyer for my little barbusik has backed out - but I will definitely be getting the pumps - I ordered a sample from Misha according to individual sizes.

Jesse3979

you still don't know the prices of "Deltica" and "Royale" by the way, I sent you a decent one. Eheim is good, mostly quiet, but the price leaves much to be desired well, that's how it is

Judy

Why do you need such powerful pumps? 2500 liters?

Justin9867

You can try using a New Jet at 1700, but if it's not enough, you'll have to change the pump, which means buying a new one for another 150. It's better to have a reserve. You can also use an Eheim 1250 and restrict the outflow, but it's still more expensive than the Med and Jet. The previous Med 1200 definitely won't be enough. P.S. Price + reserve "rules."

Ryan7682

You won't have to choke it, it will still be too little. At least a three-ton truck, otherwise you'll have to spend money again later. Due to the height of the lift, there's about a 30% loss, plus the manufacturer has a 10-15% margin.

Mike

As a medic, I don't know, but the jets don't seem to lie - what is drawn is what it gives. The eheim definitely pumps well. You won't need to buy a new one; you can throttle the drain if necessary.

Sydney

This is unnecessary. After all, we are not talking about atmans.

Leonard

The topic starter can decide for themselves, but I know for sure that there is never too much, while there is often too little.

Diana8604

I remember writing once that you cannot stifle a return.

Pamela

Guys, I really like this one - Sanya-Turbik highlighted it - and the price is reasonable for me, plus the performance is adjustable, but I can't find its dimensions. However, I was concerned about this phrase in its specifications. The water lift of up to 1 m (model NJ 600) or up to 2.85 m (model NJ 3000) is achieved even at minimum performance due to the power of the motor. But my stand is 90 cm, and the aquarium has sides of 50 cm in height. What do you think??? I would like to fit in the 600-800 range - that would be great...

Angel628

for your size - a normal pump - go for it

Derek7322

I haven't read anything like that, but as a "marine engineer," I know from experience that you can't apply too much pressure on circulation pumps (centrifugal) - the bearings break down, and then the impeller itself - but this is for large pumps - here it's hard to say. However, the principle is the same - you can apply pressure up to 25% - beyond that, it's bad for the mechanism.

Kenneth7210

One and a half meters up will push out????

Laura9093

This is the minimum you need. Off-topic: I'm building a system with approximately the same capacity as yours. I was planning to install the NewJet 3000 (just 100 more expensive than the 2300), but then I started to doubt: people are putting three-ton systems on setups that are half the size. Additional flow wouldn't hurt.

Jessica8898

I have an OR3500 on 500 liters. Height - 1500 mm.

Gregory9432

Damn guys - you confused me - should I take 2300 (I still don't understand if it will handle 1.50 m?) or should I take 3000? Has anyone seen 3000 in stores with "in stock"????

Joseph8842

You will eventually switch to SPS anyway!!!

Yolanda

Is the flow for the livestock organized by a return pump? P.S. It will still be choked by the drain.

Rebecca1419

Friends!!! So, should I take this one or the same one for 2300???

Christopher7213

I can't find the dimensions of that pump online - I thought of 150 mm for the inside clean size - will it fit there???

Denise

There are no dimensions, not even on the box. Is 150mm length or width? I can tell you the dimensions of the Jet-4500 box. They should be in Aqualife, right? You should know its exact dimensions, as well as those of 2300, 3000, especially 4500 and 6000. Are you sure you want the 3 tons? Where will it be placed, in the bedroom or the living room?

Breanna9982

San, if you look at it like an aquarium, the length is 150 mm - 15 cm - width = 410 mm - 41 cm. San, I don't want much - I'm afraid that 2300 won't be able to lift 1.5 meters - I'm worried about that phrase that says 3000 will move it up 2.85. I'm basing it on my 3/4 drain and the fact that 4 volumes per hour is great for the sea. Not in the bedroom, in the dining room - but I don't like noise...

Courtney

the package size from the jet 4500 - 18cm (length) x 11cm (width) x 18cm (height) the pump itself is smaller, that is, even smaller. (in the picture, the size is most likely for the 1700 model; for the 1700, 2300, 3000 models, the sizes do not change) I did not find the pumping graphs from the lift.

Tiffany5069

The size numbers for the three pumps are the same, so whose numbers they are is unknown. I assume the intake adjustment is adjustable. Yes, it's rather noisy, but the one that's quieter is from 200 bucks.

Chad9037

I understand that the order has been placed but not yet paid for. Before making the payment, please check the pump diagram (the flow rate versus the lift height). How much will this pump pump at a height of 1.5 meters (as in our case)?

Jason9385

I haven't paid yet - I'm waiting for the visa to be issued online. I couldn't find the diagrams - it just states that for all models, due to the power of the electric motor, even at minimal performance, the pump pushes to the top as indicated in the table. For 1700, it states - 2.10 meters. I have 1.5 m and the aquarium volume is 340 liters if filled to the brim.

Andrew9246

No. The pump will push 1700 liters per hour horizontally. Its maximum lift height is stated to be 210 cm, and at that height, it will push 0 liters per hour. To find out how much it will push at 1500 meters, you need to look at the diagram. I think, considering the turns, it will be much less than a ton. This is what the pump diagram looks like on the Eheim website, for example.

Bryan1851

What is the point of stating such data and indicating at what height the pump will deliver zero??? In that case, the NewJet 3000 at a height of 1.5 meters will deliver 1500 liters???

James5103

1700 is not enough, you need 2300 for a jet or 2500 for a medic (OR or PH - who knows). Stas wrote correctly, for your height a jet lifts about 60-65% of the nominal (I judge by the pictures of 4500 and 6000). P.S. Where are you ordering this from that you need an "internet visa"??? You can just pay the transfer to "Raiffeisen" through -24, it seems.

Erica752

With such calculations, we are back to a pump at 3000. There is no 2300 there, and I don't know when it will be - I wanted it for backup.

Melinda

nominal data more, around 2000-2100

David4089

If you were "starting" joysticks and MG - yes, 2300 would be enough. Take the medic 2500 (but who knows) - they should be available, the quality and price noise are not much different from the jet. - And regarding TNF, it seems to be on the website - who knows.

Mitchell3177

It could be 1500 liters. But I need to check a diagram somewhere. They often draw it on the boxes. It may not be linear (most likely not linear).

Shawn

I would recommend for your aquarium: Eheim 1260 or Aquamedic OR2500.

Emily3144

Finances have started to sing romances. I'll call you soon. Sanya - 2300 is not available and when it will be is unknown - they called me from there - I ordered it - then I ordered 3000 - then after that 1700 - in short - they will soon send me away from there.

Cheryl

Already? There are still stones needed. Is there a medic? Yes, there is one at the aquarium, the price is almost like a jet - around 90-95-100. I just don't know which letters you need, OR or PH. They won't send it. Have you picked up the aquarium already? You need to put the light somewhere.

Sarah7284

Guys, just don't hit too hard. I talked to him - he confirmed that the drop in productivity is directly proportional to the height of the lift at 60-65%. We agreed on the conclusion that we need to take 3000 and not complicate things for ourselves - and most importantly, not to bother you.

Kayla7655

I just spoke with a guy from there - he said they don't have any for 3000 either - the last one was reserved. He's calling the supplier now - maybe he'll find another one. Alek promised by the end of the week - along with the sample. The lamp is without bulbs - I'm thinking of charging it with cheap bulbs for the start - but I don't know which ones - I'll take a long time to start it - unless, of course, I win the lottery.

Steven7574

will not find the ray, call them, they should have it. you can take the Chinese ones for about 50-60 each, you can get the Silvane for 100-120 each, you can get the Medic for about 150-170 each, and you can get the Aty (I don't know the prices). half white 1000014000K, half blue. how many forks are sticking out of the lamp? switches? for the first while, it might be possible to manage with four bulbs if it's possible for all four to work.

Heather6148

Everything is found - already paid - 3000 - Jet, call me whatever you want. Where to take them??? From Vodianoy??? I will do it!!!! There are three sockets sticking out - no switches - three groups, in short.

Kristen2246

Why insult? Besides the taps, you'll also be adjusting the control knob on the pump to change the flow rate of the Silvania (AquaStar White and CoralStar Actinic) either there in the aquarium or (by the way, also Ray) - check for availability and prices, they have recently gone up. Chinese products are sometimes available at the 7th, and Arowana has them, but much less frequently. For lighting the water and stones, four lamps should be enough.

Brandon9634

San, I'll translate the spirit now, otherwise I've almost lost my mind today and annoyed a person with the pumps, and I'll take care of the lamps. I think I've gone into overdraft - I'm afraid my wife will catch me - I still owe Misha-Aqualife 1000 by the end of the week for the aquarium and sump - maybe even more.

Mario

Wise decision!!! With all due respect to you, regarding the load on the pump, he is mistaken. However paradoxical it may sound, if you restrict the OUTPUT from the pump, the load on it decreases. The load depends on the amount of water the pump moves per unit of time, and the pump is maximally loaded precisely when it is pushing the entire volume horizontally (without elevation) with the outlet fully open. But, of course, one should not abuse this.

Denise

I wrote that if you have to squeeze it a bit, it's not a big deal, but if you load it with livestock and it turns out to be underperforming, there's nothing you can do. Many people do this with lamps: they put in cheaper ones at the time of ripening and then change them to ones they like better for the livestock and themselves.

Thomas5021

Is the "color" of the Marin-Glo ketai found in nature or are they only white? Many do it this way, so I will do it too - thanks for the encouraging info!!!

Nicholas5194

Yes, there are blue, white, and pink ones, but you need to check for availability.

Sharon

China Sylvanian

Phillip9722

I received broken lamps from Arowana twice... it's better to order from Misha at Aqualife, I bought from him, at least you'll get them home intact.

Lauren

I'll ask Misha tomorrow - thanks for the warning!!!!

Karen1649

Guys, I have another question from your practice - many people cover the back wall of the aquarium with film, while some paint it. I want to paint it dark blue (my wife won't allow black) - are there any specifics with a painted background or self-adhesive film? I would also like to cover the sump in a color that matches the background, but I only read that they just paint it and put a second piece of glass on top so that the paint doesn't crack from the saltwater - maybe I haven't found another option to match the sump with the main background???!!!!

Bonnie

Don't mess around... ask Alik, he will carefully glue the arakal for you, they seem to have 5 shades of blue... choose to your liking...

Jeffrey6189

My acquaintance has a Hydor Seltz L40 pump, 2800 l/h, which has been in operation for six months with no noise at all. It is used in a 600l aquarium and is partially throttled with a valve, raising a column of 160 cm completely silently.

Emma

It's late, Brother - I paid for the New Jet 3000. Whatever will be, will be. I can apply it myself - better than Alik - I have a lot of experience in this, so I know how it looks when applied through glass, even with proper technique and no air "bubbles." I'm concerned about the question - could there be another priority in the film over the paint, other than appearance????

Laura3673

Yes, they are not in stock anyway. You were just lucky, usually they are well packed, I had all of them intact - about 15 arrived.

Joseph9057

Which mine? You don't need to paint that 10x10 cube; you can put plastic decor "on the squeeze" or glue it and insert it. In general, everything will be overgrown with Carolina, and no one will see your mine's background. I wrote about Aracal. Just use Aracal glue, and everything looks great, especially if it's glued neatly without bubbles and any mess (which, judging by reviews on the logo, is not common for many). And this will also be overgrown with Carolina. P.S. Or in the worst case, with some not-so-good algae. P.P.S. Aracal glue is cheaper than paint, and the effect is the same.

Debra6575

Arakal adheres through water, just like tint film on a car, without any issues. The darker the background, the more contrasting and impressive the creatures look. Color is a matter of taste. I have the darkest tint film in all my aquariums (it's more difficult with arakal in our province).

Charles5941

Ras-tak - that's also arak. I'll glue it so as not to stand out from the neat row - I'll use dark, almost black blue.

Randy

Well, that's right—anyway, part of the back wall will be covered by the stone, and then Carolina and all sorts of other stuff will stick to the back wall too, so it's a good choice.

Rebecca

Only with overgrowths does it take more depth and contrast... It's better to glue from the outside to make it easier to clean the glass. And don't let it go, otherwise it will be hard to get close and peel everything off later.

Natasha7622

Is there anyone else gluing from the inside????????????

Marie5735

Can it be that the arakal is sticking from inside the aquarium? I've never heard of that.

Michelle1662

To be honest, I really thought about the phrase "don't stick from the inside" since I hadn't considered such an idea. Using paint is easier - just took a spray can, sprayed it, and there's no need to push out bubbles from under the wet film - if I didn't like it, in 5 minutes I could remove it all with a blade. The result with paint is more uniform and looks better...

Stacey4437

Yes, but it depends on how you remove the paint and the film. There are special liquids for removing films; it literally peels off underneath. I have this Oracal just glued at the edges with double-sided tape, and there is depth, and the background looks darker. For example, my blue looks like dark blue, only where the film is on the tape you can see the original color in places, and it is noticeably lighter. So, stick it with double-sided tape, and it's both beautiful and easy.

Collin

Hardly. Here you really have to get creative; it's easier to squeeze the water out from under the film.

Katie4842

Apparently, I read this phrase quickly. That's why I said that it's better from the outside.

Kathryn514

This is a question from the series of which end to break an egg. So there are no hidden points - film-paint - let's consider it that way.

Sydney

It's a matter of taste. For me, film/Arakal is better.

Laura4892

Off-topic. How did you want it... for everything to be told to you right away? And then you would say "F*** off"? There’s a prepared honest way to take from everyone for every occasion. 15 from you, from me, from him... and there’s "for the kids' milk"... That's how we live...

Andrea8397

They will be informed by Nova Poshta. I could say - thank you, this is not mine. Turn around and leave.

Helen

It's fine, 30 currency units is not critical, it's a necessary item, although with such quirks I could have not picked it up, they would have sent it back themselves without a request - they also have a waiting time - the seller would have paid for double shipping, but they wouldn't sell you anything (if you would want to deal with this store again, of course). P.S. It happens, it arrives when you don't expect it and the money is already allocated - I've been in that situation a couple of times myself.

Thomas

From my Jewish luck - while I was looking for cheap light bulbs, everyone ran out of 54W x 120 cm. No San-Sanych or Sylvania... friends - if anyone accidentally comes across them, please give me a shout. I've checked our main stores - nothing... I was thinking of getting 50/50 white and blue... But it doesn't seem reasonable to buy normal ones for my long start - I'd rather buy J.K. (live rocks) and S.R.K. (dry reef rocks).

Lauren

Is there none on the 7th either? Did you call? And is there none at Rey's Silvaniya either? I gave you the link to "Akv svet." It's also Chinese. If I had called a month ago, it would have been cheaper.

Wanda666

Sanya - where to call on the 7th??? In-time??? Should I ask them directly????

Jessica9188

ask Misha at Aqualife, he will bring it to you

Kenneth7210

Order battle lamps from Tkach. Good quality for the price. Better than San-San.

Kevin262

I haven't taken anything from him yet - where should I knock???

James8887

It's faster if it's simple. If it's on a budget. Of course, AТI is better.

Jesse

It's generally better to add all the stones at once, but finances don't always allow for that, and many add them gradually. This can cause the balance to fluctuate due to the increase in organic matter.

Lauren

Oh, guys, everyone knows that it doesn't always work out right away - I still don't plan to settle anything complicated or demanding in the near future - for now, I won't be sure that I understand something and that the time has come - and today I had - he also says - pour sand and get salty - don't waste time.

Angel2396

Yes, slowly add some J.K. (live rocks), then you'll have some bacteria. It would be good to pour in about 200 liters of live water, let the aquarium start to mature gradually.

Dana4701

better buy 5 kg from a..........you won't regret it

Adam

I will do just that!!! Have you already given away those beautiful blue crucians???

Cheyenne2747

I sold it a long time ago, I wouldn't buy any bacteria, let everything go slowly and unhurriedly, it's better to invest money in J.K. (living stones), and what kind of lamps do you need? Length and how many watts?

Christopher

Length 115 cm - watt 54.

Adam

Yes, there are some on the caravan, but what’s wrong with these? Good German lamps - they last for a year, and what about the fixture for 8 lamps?

Beth3383

As you rightly said, at the time of launch, I want to invest all the funds in live rocks, while temporarily using cheap San-Sanych lights. Why would I illuminate an empty aquarium with German lights? Six lamps.

Tracey

So I was thinking the same... what are you going to light up in an empty aquarium? Are you going to turn on 2 actinic lamps for a month? I think buying 6 SanSanych lamps and then normal lamps after a month is illogical; it's better to buy good lamps right away... later you'll thank me for dissuading you from unnecessary purchases.

Elizabeth6302

It's quite logical!!! So can I take two normal lamps and then drink??? Which ones should I take? Blue-white? - I'm already thanking you.

Susan

Here are the lamps for 61 each. Not expensive and German quality. Length 115 cm - wattage 54. White light, take 1 of these and 2 Aquamedic blue lights, and then when you get some money, buy more white light lamps. I think you should do it this way: place the actinic lamps at the edges and 4 white light lamps in the middle.

Jessica9188

There are also Chinese lamps, although I don't see the point in them in your case.

Wendy

I will have to take two of those - the driver works for a couple of lamps - it's a pity there are no Osram actinics at that price. I will order them now, especially since this store can't send me the pump. !!! A big thank you!!! It's a pity you don't drink Tequila...

Joyce

These are good German lamps, they will last you a year, they cost 8000 each. I think you should do this: order 4 lamps for 61 each, and 2 actinic Aquamedic Reef Blue, so the budget for the lamps will be 61x4 + 2x160 = 564. You will have excellent light. Just tell them to pack the lamps properly and send them on time, they insure them, and when you receive the lamps, make sure to check each one to ensure none are broken, as this happens often with lamps. If a lamp is broken, they will reimburse the cost of the broken lamp on time.

Pamela

That is, you take each lamp out of the box and check its integrity; I already messed up once—seemed fine on the edges but was cracked in the middle, damn it.

Brianna

- But will two actinics be enough - maybe 50/50 with whites? Or do I really not care at the start??? I'm already on the "order" button.

Rebecca

Then take 50/50, I also have 4 actinic and 4 white.

Laura9093

Order some salt from them then. Many people on the forum use it, including me. 20 kg will be enough for both the startup and long-term replacements, and their price is good. If you want, I can give you 1 kg of that salt to try.

Richard2180

Why should I try it - as if I understand something about it - you expressed your opinion - that's enough for me - I can at least try some fried potatoes, add salt, and then talk about the taste on the forum.

Brent5588

made me laugh, thank you

Darlene4238

Regarding J.K. (live rocks). Buy as many J.K. (live rocks) as finances allow from A. I wouldn't take S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) if I were starting... It could go either way; it might be fine, or it could go horribly wrong. !

Amy

I waited for eight weeks.

Kathy

Then I'm calm. Tomorrow I'll drop by anyway. Alik swore it would be done by the end of this week, but this is the second "oath" - their work style is strange - the aquarium has been glued for two weeks - only the ribs, the hole, and the glass are left - that's it. The truth is, Alik got hit in the forehead - he's walking around with a band-aid on - he says it's because of that dynamite...

Brenda

You don't have to put 40kg of live rock in at once! Just throw in 20-25kg and don't worry about dry rock. You can use dry rock as a base for the live rock. Cut it into discs and place the live rock on top of it. A 3000L tank will be insufficient. At least two will be needed. Everything will depend on the amount of live rock/dry rock and their arrangement. 38ppm - have you changed the membrane long ago (sorry, I couldn't handle the whole topic)? P.S. If I had known you had such "clean" water, I would have filled up some for my mother-in-law too.

Elizabeth6302

I already understood this - thank you for confirming my concerns - I'll take another one on Saturday - or maybe two more??? Just in case, right? Will three be okay??? I'm just afraid that three might be too much for the washing machine? They are not adjustable!!! The new system - I installed it three weeks ago - we haven't used it for anything other than filling the kettle - it's a new membrane, basically. Off-topic I'll post an ad in the flea market for a real business - you'll get it for free for life - for the idea. I'll charge a dollar per liter - properly charged water - for the mother-in-law.

Colin1418

Off-topic For such an idea, I don't even need money.

Alejandro

Today I will check - the bulk flask has arrived and I will buy resin on the way. The day before yesterday he had it.

Megan

I installed the hot resin (ion exchange) right after the membrane = 0.01 ppm - will it last long? While I was pouring the resin into the flask out of curiosity, I poured tap water where it was 1250 ppm - I got 34 ppm at the output - this resin is serious. P.S. I tested water from ampoules, sterile, for injections = 0.11 ppm. Bottled drinking water "San Benedetto" = 300 ppm.

Laurie3842

Drain before you fill the aquarium with 5-10 liters of water through the resin. Well, with your first filling of the system, it may not last very long, but the second one will last longer. Keep an eye on the TDS meter readings, change it when they rise, and periodically rinse the membrane and replace the filters.

John3432

In my case, the membrane is automatically rinsed.

Elizabeth1221

TDS measures ppm, which means it can only measure perfectly if it's integrated into an osmosis system, but if, like me, you have a regular device (I'm talking about TDS), there is a small margin of error. This is because micro-particles get into the device itself and into the flask where the water for the test is collected. Just a side note.

Tina

The same topic... It's not fatal, but you need to get the hang of it.

Amanda

Everything in their aquariums is fine, according to them.

Joseph2576

Off-topic. Guys, even writing about some nonsense is as easy as pie. But don't spread this nonsense around the village, don't misinform the people. Otherwise, God forbid, someone might read this and start pouring tap water into their marine aquarium, shouting that it feels so good...

Amanda5586

Off-topic. Everything has its time... The main thing in our business is not to panic and to sound the horn in the fog... (an old maritime saying) And, as I.V. Stalin used to say, do not succumb to provocations...

Meghan

It would be different - the topic wouldn't go beyond the fourth post.

Nicole2404

Offtopic ohhh man, I really laughed hard before going to bed. I'm just afraid of honking and disturbing the whole port. P.S. That thing that honks is called a Typhon.

Brian7092

Yeah, I had to tackle 28 pages like that.

Heather6148

Offtopic Respect!!! I would have given up on the second page. I make seawater from fresh water in 140 liters, and then I came up with 340 liters of new seawater. I have been blogging since 2007 about how we bought a plot, built a house, and live there - it has 190 pages - "a rare bird reaches the middle of the Dnieper." But many sit and work through each page in order - that really deserves respect. I bought another stream of 3000 liters, the same (sun-sun), totaling 6000 liters. Guys - is that enough to start??? And finally, the pump for the Turbo-Jet 3000 has arrived. On Monday, they swear that the aquarium and the sump will be ready.

Mark7376

I don't understand why you took 6 white lamps from San Sanych. Probably for запас.

Jessica5016

I took six whites - I took three blues - among them one coral and three whites, there were no 10,000 to 14,000.

Tammy

They also have "pink" ones - but I hesitated and didn't take them - by the way, they have a bunch of pumps on the shelves - well, from the same country, of course - there are very powerful ones - I think the price is also - a pittance. There are plenty of lights - T5 - medium sizes - I asked how much they cost - they said expensive - looked at the price list - 120-150 including bulbs. I will take two of the 24W ones from them.

Nicholas5194

Buddy, if you have any questions, feel free to ask, I'm open to it. More questions and answers will make it clearer and more useful for both of us. I was pulled from another topic here, and I would be happy to answer questions from people like me. Only newbies are going into battle - no worries, once we gain some experience, we will also puff out our cheeks, which is important. But the guys from the forum didn't just help me; they gave me the motivation not to abandon this idea at the thinking stage - without them, I wouldn't have made the decision... I ended up on the right forum - although I "hang out" on all the central seas - I like it here, I only read there.

Troy8808

Thank you. Then here’s a question right away. You wrote that you are collecting 100 units of currency for 10 kg of live rocks. As I understand it, that’s 100 currency units? And where are such prices? I will be ready in a couple of weeks. Therefore, I need dry reef rocks for the base now, and only after the salting will I need live rocks.

Jennifer5371

You misunderstood something. J.K. (live rocks) is 20 currency units per kg, S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) is 6, and there are also M.S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) - but I don't remember its price (around 12 currency units per kg). You need the ones that are 6 and the ones that are 20.

Heather6148

I haven't looked at his prices yet - it seems I've caught a break on the price - the number 10 USD stuck in my mind - well, my path is getting longer then. I definitely remember that for S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) it's 6. Or my impulsive experimental innovator side will kick in - there will be a double theme here - a living reef on "dead rocks."

Angela

160g/kg, just over 10 units 6 units/kg of crackers, I don't think it will be alive at 10.

Jacqueline5976

8g S.R.C. (dry reef rocks), 2kg M.S.R.C. (dry reef rocks), 1.5kg L.C. (live rocks) - good - thread yes, dino or diatoms - rarely, especially start to appear if you add coal, cyano hasn't come in - at least that's lucky.

Crystal

Whether it's J.K. (live rocks) or S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) - the aquarium will still mature, and you will go through all the stages - the cloudiness, the green algae, and the rust ))))

Theresa5149

at a 160.1 kg

David953

the place of ten buys 5, it's better than one S.R.C. (dry reef stones)

Jessica5348

Vo! Vo! That's exactly how I plan to do it. I will beautifully glue the S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) with epoxy as I like and add a bit of J.K. (live rocks). I won't lay the substrate for now, but when it gets warmer, I'll go to the sea and collect some live sand. It doesn't have to be completely white. How about that option? Does it have the right to be realized?

Andrea9320

You have a supplier in your city, Yarik - ask him, Indonesian seems to be easier than Chinese. You need to cement (white cement + aragonite sand), epoxy resin may not hold, especially if the branches are large. About the sand for Alexey - he seems to have some from the sea in his aquarium.

Cheryl9296

Alexey had it at home and saw his reef on such sand. Everything is great! That's what I'm taking as an example. By Monday, the screeds will have dried well, and I will start pouring water. First from the tap (to check the system), and then from the osmosis. So I'm in a hurry to contact Yarik for the stone. Thanks for the tip.

James8887

Unfortunately, I only provide J.K. (live rocks). For S.R.K. (dry reef rocks) to you or to the Kyiv residents...

Tiffany5069

And I'm already messaging you privately... It's a pity, of course. Then the question about S.R.K. (dry reef stones) remains open.

Marie5735

Then knock on Airif and Sasha, I don't recommend in CA, you can also knock on "Solomir" - she recently launched on S.R.K. (dry reef stones) it seems from Airif and she is also from your city.

Ryan7682

I took S.R.K. (dry reef stones) in the center of aquaristics, Indonesian, very light and porous, with various whimsical shapes, many for 46 per kg.

Pamela

Buddy, if you find it, give me a whistle - it's in China - but I haven't seen it yet, it was standing in bags. You can also use the blue "High Gear." Which sea are you going to? I live by the sea in Odessa - but supposedly they said it's not that live sand. Modernization => modernized. Vitala modernized the skimmer and reported that it would work more efficiently at a water level of 20 cm - but I designed it for 30 cm - that's the drilling platform I came up with. Five legs at 0.95 each, made of EPC, and Moment-gel glue, 10 tubes.

Tricia7885

I don't want to upset you, S.R.K. (dry reef stones) are all in China.

Gregory9432

But in that case, it can be confidently said that there are different kinds of "China"! Still, where can I find at least a similar stone as on that site? It doesn't matter where it's from, the main thing is that it's beautiful and quite light. You can see what a pile is made from 40 kg.

Russell8484

No need for chatter, the product definitely comes from Indonesia, it arrives in wooden boxes weighing 50 kg, the boxes are primitive. I ordered one box, and at the very bottom of the box, there were some old newspapers that looked yellowish. I didn't throw these newspapers away; instead, I went to a friend who works as a translator. We found in specialized literature that one newspaper was written in Indonesian, while the other two were in Javanese, which is the second largest language group in the Indonesian islands. That's how it is.

Maria6659

They buy newspapers in Indonesia and put them in their boxes.

Jeffrey496

although it's also an option - the Chinese are capable of even more

Brandy

To my direct question about "Sanya, where do the stones (S.R.K. (dry reef stones)) come from?" he replied directly, "I get them from China - where they were collected, I don't know - maybe from Indonesia, or maybe from Israel."

Laura4892

Odessa, Do you recommend taking S.R.K. (dry reef stones) from CA based on your experience? I know you have taken it from Airif, so you can judge from firsthand experience. Let the moderators not scold us. This is neither an advertisement nor an anti-advertisement. I was looking through a thread about stones from Airif. There are photos of the stones, but they are not very impressive. They are not what I want for myself. However, if the ones from CA are like those in the promotional photos, I would gladly and without any doubt acquire the necessary amount for myself.

Wendy2244

Yes, in my own way, I also took 25 kg in Airaife, a very heavy stone compared to S.R.K. (dry reef stones) from Central Asia, and in terms of the shape of the stone, the one from Central Asia is more interesting, simply because in Central Asia there are options for 46 and 58. It's the same stone, but when the price is 58, you can choose the stones you like from them, while with 46 they just throw in everything randomly. I also ended up with 3 flat stones, as flat as pancakes. At first, I was upset, but then I used them as the base for the reef, and it turned out very well, that's how it goes.

Robert

And I wouldn't say no... But... that's in advertising... In real life, take what you have... and if you don't like it, then go away...

Lauren

Odessa Thank you!!! That's exactly what I need! I'm off to place the order. When the stone arrives, I can take some photos and share them. I think many people reading this thread will be interested to see, including the author of the thread.

Leslie

How can you choose if it's by 58??? By photos, maybe??? I didn't quite understand. Guys, send me a link to the CA on how to order - I swear I haven't been there yet and haven't looked into the orders.

Robert5335

I'm sorry, but it seems that the text you provided is empty. Please provide the text you would like me to translate.

Jessica

No, we need to go to Kyiv and choose the stone on-site.

Catherine6534

It's better to call a neighbor; it will be heavy, around 70-80 kg, and also inconvenient and fragile.

Jason

Off-topic Sania - what the heck??? I need to get another 200 bucks from my wife for salt and stones. If I get drunk with the neighbor, she'll have a reason-argument to "be offended" at me. It's not for nothing that I made a rolling cabinet - I can just roll it right up to the trunk.

James1625

Can you provide more details and take a photo? What power reserve are they designed for?

Allison

On the first pages of the topic, I described what I made and how, and posted photos. The wheels can withstand a constant load of 240 kg, which is for an empty aquarium and sump, to move to another room since repairs are coming. Otherwise, there are legs that can be unscrewed, and each can support a load of 500-600 kg. There are four of them, totaling 2000 kg. They will lift the wheels off the floor, and they will not bear any load—only for the mobility of the empty aquarium.

James

I remember someone made a similar structure. Then they wrote that it is practically impossible to lift an aquarium with water using that method.

Hunter1471

It may be that the effort to twist is very great, but the lifting force is much greater - remember the screw car jack. However, I am not going to engage in masochism - the structure is installed in its designated place, leveled properly (I use a Stanley, for example), and only then is water added. The same goes for evacuation, but in reverse order.

Paul

I forgot to mention something important - the aquarium and the sump (it's from the 8 series) were completed in 2030. It took 5 weeks to make. Akvalife Odessa (Alik-Anya-Misha).

Travis572

If you drain the water, everything should work out.

Lindsey3628

Fill "after-raising-legs" - drain and "after-legs-open" - Mandatory (in my case)!!!

Gabrielle5053

Yes. Moving an aquarium during renovations is not for the faint-hearted.

Kristen1161

Alek is in his element—why did he install a cross brace? Even without it, two ribs of stiffness would have been more than enough. He wanted to stick cross braces on me too, but I told him it wasn't necessary, and he agreed that it was indeed unnecessary.

Jeffrey2277

I calculated the entire structure before gluing, and this brace was really unnecessary - maybe I should actually remove it - by the way, how do I do that??? Cut the silicone with a knife? Or what? And instead, add ribs the width of the aquarium - they would make more sense there - although that might be overkill too...

Zachary

You can try to carefully cut the silicone with a blade and remove it to the monks, otherwise it will only block part of the light.

Leah

He definitely doesn't need them, but you and your downstairs neighbors might find them useful.

Jeanne

Regarding the transfusion... I am plagued by vague doubts.

Anthony4281

Don't keep me in suspense - just tell me - otherwise I won't be able to sleep.

Zoe7451

it's too late to worry now, pour some water (fresh) and give it a try

Christopher4108

The pocket is a bit low (from the edge of the aqua).

Jeffrey2277

Are you hinting at a hole in the back wall??? At the beginning of the topic, the guys provided examples of their cans (with photos) with a similar hole - some have more than one drilled in the back.

Steven

Exactly 45 mm. - is that too much??? Critical???

Joseph2576

I don't like it for many reasons; it doesn't mean it's completely unworkable, but it can really mess with your mind.

Rick

I only worry about one thing - that it doesn't crack - but logically, it shouldn't. I'm ready to jump into the setup - the main thing is that it should be solvable. The aesthetic appearance of the entire structure has overshadowed a normal masculine, engineering approach - a cabinet with wings looks more impressive and highlights the length of the aquarium - but there are even more downsides - putting my hand on my belly, I wouldn't make the wings now - more junk would fit into the cabinet.

Gary6376

I hope you’re not talking about all the water. You’ll need to leave about 10 centimeters in any case, or even more. Maybe it’s better to just keep it simple. Let the screed be. You can place your trees closer to the edges; the screed won’t interfere, and there won’t be much shade under the screed anyway. For peace of mind, you can wipe it with a cloth to remove the salt.

Ryan

screed in the style of a aquaworld store

Tina

I just threw my back out while lifting heavy stuff, "it's time to work, but I can't sit or stand" (c) V.S.V. - and because of that, I thought it might as well stay for now - Sanya Turbik has the same issue, and I haven't seen any shadows in his aquarium from the joint. Three times = !!! I want to polish a couple of edges on top - guys, what's the easiest way to manually polish glass?

Phillip9722

However you want, but a visually thick layer doesn't look good.

Amy

3.5-4 cm will be just right.

Erica752

Such a layer of sand is "neither here nor there." It's better to do DSB in the refugium if at all. I won't add much for myself either. It's not aesthetically pleasing. However, I might organize it in the sump.

Cassandra7840

No-no-no! 2-3 cm is quite enough. There were many copies broken regarding DSB. But it was agreed that it’s a time bomb. Some people seemed to manage and it worked, but at least half of the systems collapsed after a year to a year and a half of life with DSB. So if you’re going to play with it, it should be after gaining some experience with the sea. Moreover, DSB should be organized from live sand and with a normal amount of live rock. I understand that there won’t be any of that here.

Sarah

This photo is from an enemy reef center - I see that many people there are obsessed with such a layer - it looks monstrous. And in general, it seems to me that this is coral rubble, not sand.

Noah1632

Buddy, yesterday you said that the overflow seems a bit low - 45 mm from the top edge of the aquarium, is that a lot??? Tell me, because I'm worried that it might be too little. I bought fittings 3/4, pipes, and one valve - now I'm going to make a Durso. Guys, I have a very important question for you as practitioners - where is it more convenient to place the valve (tap-valve) - immediately after the Durso, that is, outside the cabinet, or at the end of it, that is, inside the cabinet????

John828

By any chance, have you seen one like that in 45mm?

Daniel132

If possible, photos of the process. How, where, and what...

Christopher3770

In the photo, the top of the pipe is almost level with the edge of the overflow pocket. It’s possible that everything will be fine, but usually, the drain (opening) is somewhere in the middle of the pocket. And is 4.5 cm from the edge of the aquarium not too much? I mean, you’re losing usable volume, and you’ll have to make the decoration wider. The valve is installed as low as possible. This way, you can slightly adjust the noise level.

Alec9378

45 what??? A hole of 45 mm and we need to find something to fit there??? There’s plenty of everything there - even "threaded passages" with a nut in the middle and two threads on the right and left - there’s a large area for the nut - you can even avoid gluing and just use gaskets - the simplest way is to stand in that section and rummage through all the shelves and racks and measure everything on the spot "fits-comes out-wonderfully comes out" The main standards in EPC. in Nibko (Odessa) 1/2"-3/4"-1" - meaning it’s always there.

John5528

Well, they raised it as much as possible - there is a rib at the top edge and a tie, which is minus 20 mm - leaving 25 mm from the surface of the mirror to the rib, that is, 25 mm - there’s no other way. The overflow nose can be lowered to the bottom of the pocket - no problem. Definitely - if there is interest - but keep in mind - I am still a theorist - I will do it according to the manual.

Joseph9057

In this case, the length of the "nose" doesn't matter at all. And 25 mm is fine; it looks larger in the photo.

Bridget

I don't understand ... Yarik, can you explain the meaning in simple terms for the slow-witted???

Allison

Why do you need a "bicycle"? Drill from the top, put a valve for the compressor, and that's it. PVC fits tightly, it will be hard to twist the plug in its place. I hope you didn't glue the 90-degree elbow in the cup? You might need to grow it out, but it's much easier to remove.

David953

I agree with the first part. But why might it be necessary to grow out the corner? Share your thoughts!

Tanya

I'm not sure, but I saw pockets on YouTube that were not full of water (about halfway, and there was a "nose" that was extended). P.S. I don't know much about this.

Ricky9405

The pocket fills with water up to the level of the hole in the glass. The length of the "nose" does not matter. My pockets are also half full. But that's because the hole is in the center of the pocket.

Michelle13

Without bicycle inventors, we would still be sitting in trees. It seems I’m starting to understand - the siphon doesn’t work because air is being drawn in from the top through the plug??? But it should work. I measured the difference between the hole and the drain - it’s 10 mm lower than the top of the fence from the grid. So, is that normal?

Chad9037

Based on the photos, it seems that the top of your drain pipe is at least level with the overflow of the glass or just a little lower. How is it in reality - higher, lower, level???

Bryan1851

the top of the pipe at the overflow level + wave back and forth 2-3 cm

Daniel132

The water level in Dyurso should be in the middle of your horizontal pipe. I won't guess, but it needed to be drilled about 3 centimeters higher. This is not quite right.

Kathryn514

Yes! Hooray! This is the Durso principle! And you adjust the siphon with the air valve. 10 mm - I think everything will be fine!

Jeffrey

How much higher can it get?!! They probably meant LOWER?

Nancy

Unfortunately, this bike won't work - the task for Durso is to eliminate the "toilet flushing" sound during the "siphon" drain, and in your bike, you're doing the same siphon, just with "crap at the end."

Joyce

That is why I opted for the duct instead of the box, considering the space that the corner fittings would take up. It’s better to have the duct inside than to have so much space "wasted" outside.

Michelle5859

Yes, I'm confused. Well, then post a photo of how and where and from whom it was done correctly, because I've already twisted almost everything, but it's still not right. So how is it supposed to be done? Does anyone have a photo or the exact dimensions, a drawing? Honestly, I'm very curious myself; I'm facing the question of whether to make a hole in the side of the aquarium or in the bottom? But in the bottom, it's double glass, which is 20mm thick—where can I find such a fitting?

Brooke3987

drill the bottom without hesitation the coupling is not a problem

Emily3144

golden words))) and you can push it against the wall as close as possible!

Stacey4437

No. The height is limited by the upper level of the pocket or shaft.

Ashley5975

The same idea. Therefore, I would make a hole in the rear or side window.

Anthony4281

The height of the column in the glass is adjusted by the position of the drain hole, which affects the level difference in the main aquarium-glass. What confuses me in the shadow box is that it will additionally heat the back wall. But the idea is great - it would be easy to implement with its base.

Holly

There are enough LED strips there, or two or three large ones. It won't get hot.

Amber

In my opinion, the difference in water levels between the glass and the aquarium depends solely on the position of the glass (we do not take into account the amount supplied by the return pump). As soon as the water level in the aquarium drops below the top level of the glass, the water flow will stop. This is essentially how sumps are calculated. The entire volume of water between the normal level and the stop must fit in the sump (excluding the water that is already in the sump), otherwise, it will be a disaster for the neighbors below.

Christopher7213

I have a question for our Gurus: Are there any restrictions on the diameter of the drain pipe? The minimum is clear, but what about the maximum? That is, they usually install 3/4". Is it worth installing 1"?

Sara

I have one and a half.

Jennifer5371

If the volume is 600 liters, how much is needed?

Nancy

It all depends on the power of the supply pump! To avoid complications, I use an inch for such a volume. The principle is more, not less. But the table mentioned in the previous post can also be used.

Karen81

That's what I wanted to hear. For the table, 3/4" is enough.

Aaron6112

- for fittings and prices from EPC. I saved the receipts - I'm figuring out how much I used: 1. - 90-degree elbow - KW-KW 3/4" = 7.60 . - 1 pc. 2. - 45-degree elbow - KW-KW 3/4" = 8.95 . - 4 pcs. 3. - tee KW-KW-RV 3/4" (the one with internal threads) = 10.10 . - 1 pc. 4. - valve (ball valve) 3/4" KW-KW = 48.45 . - 1 pc. 5. - cap KW = 3.65 . - 1 pc. 6. - pipe 3/4" 3 m. = 33.30 . - 1 pc. 7. - glue 118 ml. = 44.50 . 8. - cleaner 118 ml. = 34.70 . P.S. There are 2 meters of pipe left.

Amanda5586

What is this? A faucet, I mean?

Spencer7805

Yes, that's him. I edited it.

Bryan1851

Friends, how do I return the 1/2"?! New Jet 3000 pump.

Ryan2281

I would pull 3/4". It definitely won't be worse.

Ronald

I mean, by reducing the diameter of the pipe, we increase the flow speed, which results in a kind of additional stream. Yarik also mentioned something about 1/2" and not fixing it rigidly, so there would be room for maneuvering for better water exchange - it can be moved to another place - I liked that.

Jason

I made everything out of plastic, just that part ABOVE THE AQUARIUM I didn't glue. It can be rotated in different directions, lengthened, or shortened as needed. And if it comes off (which hasn't happened), nothing serious will happen. The pipe is glued to the clamp before it overflows into the aquarium. P.S. While I was typing, I answered. Yes, that's exactly right!

Tiffany5069

I lean towards this option - it is the most reliable design - using a corrugated structure is questionable - although it is mobile - and most importantly, the corrugation, due to its ribbed design, tends to accumulate layers and become overgrown.

William1830

do not use anything that moves, start it firmly without any nonsense, just like the drain. The nozzle that is in the aquarium is not glue, just put it on firmly.

Brent8919

Thank you, brother - I understand everything - I'm pulling everything through the pipe - the hose is like a rabbit with cigarettes - I was waiting for your response - I bought the hose to "connect the pump."