• Decorations in a marine aquarium

  • Mary

Colleagues, I'm looking into the issue of aquarium decoration. One of the tasks is to hide the overflow column. How have you solved this issue? What materials did you use? What is your opinion - what is the best fit? There are statements on the forum, but they are very scattered across the topics of personal aquariums: Concrete - heavy, needs to be soaked for a long time, sand, concrete - almost the same procedure, although the mass is less. Tuff, dry stones - a light, convenient material, but there were opinions that later they "radiate" and give reason for outbreaks of various algae. Perhaps I missed the topic where this was discussed in detail - correct me with a link. Here I also found such a composition: Section "Ceramic Rocks". True, they did not indicate whether it was fired or not. In this context, the process of creating "balconies" for the proper placement of corals is interesting. Combining with grottos would be ideal. It seems to me that ceramics should be strong enough to withstand the weight of relatively small live

Justin9867

I think S.R.C. (dry reef rocks) would be suitable for this; the organic matter that may be present in them won't have too much of an impact on a properly arranged aquarium, and the aeration bacteria will deal with it quite quickly. Ceramic can be used, but in my opinion, S.R.C. (dry reef rocks) are better.

Jill1815

S.R.C. (dry reef stones) (+) : Structurally the same as L.R.C. (live stones). You can safely look for flat stones. You can place supports, resulting in grottos and balconies. (-) : You need to attach holders to the column to secure the stones. You need to drill the stones. The structure is non-removable/"not quick-release."

Chelsea567

What if we create a quick-release monolith, meaning the structure is assembled outside the aquarium and then placed in its assembled form, taking into account that the process of installation and dismantling should be as quick and convenient as possible. A reef constructor or Henkel hardener would help to bond the structure into a single monolith.

Brent8919

Artificial: S.R.C. (dry reef stones):

Andrea8397

I was also thinking about a monolithic column, but then a thought crossed my mind: it won't be possible to place the structure tightly against the walls of the overflow shaft!!! Consequently, all sorts of debris will accumulate there. And there will be no way to blow out such a narrow and curved gap at a 90-degree angle! Is this harmful, and will this secluded corner eventually turn into a source of nitrates? Maybe it's simpler to stick squares on the column and secure them with clamps for live rocks? The column will eventually be overgrown with coral, and nothing unnecessary will be visible!

Omar3497

Stick it on and don't overthink it, just what to use so it's reliable and safe...

Stuart

I didn't specify, my mistake. I meant to say - blue or other background.

Katie3017

Does epoxy glue wet J.K. (live rocks)? Are there any specific features for gluing wet stones?

John3187

Wet adhesives bond SPS to stone. The main thing is to avoid "visible" water.

David2398

I completely agree with him, I have used Epoxy many times, I glued frags to live rocks, first dabbing the live rocks with toilet paper, and the frags respond positively.

Jeffrey2277

You can tie the algae to the column with fishing line.

Megan

What is titanium wire? Where can I buy it in Kyiv on the weekend? What does it look like so I don't confuse it with aluminum or knitting wire, etc.? Please...

Andrew7823

On weekends, you can buy it from the vendors along the tram line (closer to the tram ring, on the right if coming from the market). It's very hard to confuse it with aluminum; the thickness I got seems to be 1.3 mm, and it's quite soft.

Devon107

It is definitely soft and light, resembling stainless steel. Those who sell it, and there are only a few people, will not lie, and it's not hard to check; the spark from titanium wire or rod does not resemble the spark from any other metal.