• Help! Green algae.

  • Tina

What to do? A month after the launch, J.K. (live stones) stone, coral chips, blue trace salt, osmosis water, livestock Lisma 1 piece. Lives for 2 weeks. I tried to manually remove the green algae, but it grows even more. Water change once a week.

Rodney

The maturation process is underway. There is little information about the light, how much, filtration, flow...???

Scott9892

The light is a standard two-lamp setup, one actinic and the other regular. For the first three weeks, it was 8 hours. Now it's 10 hours. The filter is an FZN-2 backpack. Ceramic rings and carbon weight I calculated based on volume, but I don't remember the exact amount. It seems to be 40 grams. I don't turn off the filter. The temperature is 25. The flow pump is a Chinese Resun, the smallest one. The aquarium volume is 20 liters. I did a drop test for pH. It showed 7.5.

Erin

Rings, carbon, to the furnace, cancel the substitutions. What is the salinity, what is the TDS after osmosis, is there ion exchange resin? Please read the topics on the forum.

Brandi

Understood, everything will be thrown out from the filter. Salinity 1.023-1.025. I don't know the TDS, and I have no way to measure it. I got the water from a store with marine aquariums. That's why I didn't ask about the resins and didn't know back then. Later, when everything started to grow heavily, I thought about the water and whether there was osmosis! I bought a heater from that store, and it turned out to be an unpleasant situation; I almost boiled the jar. That's why I'm not sure about that water. Then I added more. Distilled water from the car wash.

Katie5500

If you take distillate, only get it from a pharmacy. It won't do from the auto market.

Travis572

Okay. I will get it at the pharmacy.

Allison

How much water do you change? Do you siphon the substrate or try to create a DSB? I had the pleasure of working with a 30-liter Aquael reef for several years. There were all sorts of experiments conducted on it. But when laziness struck, I would change about 50% (10 liters) of the water, siphon the substrate, clean the rocks and glass. If it didn't help right away, I would repeat it in a couple of days. It always worked.

Tasha

VM.A. (marine aquarium)???

Brian

Was that a question about my message? 20-30 liters is not the volume where a fully self-sustaining system can be created (and there is actually even less water due to rocks and substrate). You can't even attach a foam separator there - it's either bulky or doesn't work. But large water changes are just right. It's not expensive, and as experience shows, the creatures tolerate the inevitable fluctuations in temperature and salinity very well. It's a pity I didn't save the link to the incredibly beautiful substrate-free aquarium that thrived on 100% water changes. And, by the way, substrate in such a volume is more likely to accumulate dirt than to aid in biofiltration.

Randall7906

Yes, I have seen more than one such mini marine aquarium without substrate (and with substrate, Caribbean Sea 4-5 cm) but with large water changes (only good osmosis water), and they are still alive today, in excellent condition.

Tiffany5069

It is impossible to create an autonomous system in any volume! In any case, there will be a need to replenish the elements consumed by corals. The system is only autonomous in the oceans. On this forum, there are dozens of very successful small marine aquariums, and on Reef Central - dozens... and you say... Aren't aquariums unviable without a protein skimmer??? I have a 58-gallon tank, and the skimmer for aeration is working. As a result, there are sharp fluctuations in all parameters. I disagree!!!

Brandy

Yes, that's correct, and the problem won't be solved your way! The author made some mistakes when starting the marine aquarium, and the easiest way to stabilize the system is to do a complete restart with clean, tested water. Which food are you talking about? There is only one Doctor living there. I didn't mention canceling water changes; I said that 50% water changes are impractical and harmful, especially in this case. Algae will thrive because there are dead animals in the live rocks, and it's unclear what kind of coral rubble is present and where it comes from. If you are talking about DSB, there is a very good article on how DSB works.

Leonard

The fourth message in this topic: You just mentioned the restart now. In general, it's up to the topic starter to decide; I've expressed my opinion, which has never let me down so far, and I don't want to argue.

Nicholas

Can I see at least one of your marine aquariums, not for the sake of argument, but for the sake of development? Thank you!

David3217

The water change is about 3 liters. I don't siphon the substrate. I feed the shrimp with a syringe, so it doesn't accumulate anywhere except in their stomachs. I tried changing more water, about 6-7 liters, and it started to grow more algae, and the corals stopped opening. So I only saw downsides in that. I tried turning off the light for a couple of days; it seemed a bit better, but then it got worse again. I tried leaving only the actinic light on, and it was even worse.

Kimberly3727

please read

John3432

I read it. Well done. Thank you very much. I've read so many different topics that my head is spinning. And everyone has their own approach.

Megan

all 46 pages?

Sarah

Not yet. But I'm reading!

Ronald5720

Here it is, I have already attached photos of that very aquarist. It was done a long time ago, and I don't remember the details of when the photos were taken. Euphyllias lived in it from time to time, and they lived well.

Shawn

Maybe there really is something wrong with the water. They say reverse osmosis doesn't remove phosphates well. I haven't checked it myself. Actually, I forgot to mention one more detail. It's considered a given, but I know people who don't do this - after salting, the water should be mixed well with a separate pump for at least a day, and aeration is also possible. My corals usually didn't close up, or if they did, it was only for a short time.