• Condensate and ventilation of the cabinet with the SAMP.

  • Jennifer9100

Hello everyone! I am currently finishing the cabinet. I have a question about ventilation. 1. Will a grille measuring 40x10 cm on the back wall be sufficient? 2. Or should I make ventilation openings on the side walls as well? 3. Should I install some kind of fan for forced exhaust?

William1830

A fan is a must.

Danielle

Maybe you could recommend one?

Mitchell7972

Choose what suits you. You can set a timer for when it turns on, or when the light in the lamp turns on.

George5104

Okay. I will do that.

Jacqueline5976

It is advisable to make two openings, one for air intake and the other for exhaust (where a fan is installed). I have a 9 cm computer cooler, which works quite well; if it's not enough, you can add more. I wouldn't install a fan for 220V.

Tiffany5069

I have two 92mm slow-speed intake-exhaust fans, but I haven't turned them on even once in six months - my doors are "drafty" from the center of the "shutter" design, and one is almost always open.

Laurie3842

In the spring, I will be covering my MDF frame. How can I cool it for the summer? There is an air conditioner in the room, but I don't want it to run constantly. I have two 12mm Zalman coolers. These two coolers were used for cooling in a freshwater tank and managed to lower the temperature from 30 to 27 degrees; if they ran continuously, it would drop to 25-26 at night. Will they be enough for a marine aquarium, considering there is much more equipment and light? I want to cover the back side but not the sides and front, and I plan to install the coolers on the side wall, one for intake and the other for exhaust. What do you recommend?

Melissa

Wents has a very high noise level, starting from 40 dB. If you can wait, I will provide a link on Monday to Spanish domestic exhaust and duct fans, where the noise level starts from 26 dB. I constantly deal with ventilation systems in my work, so there are plenty of options to choose from.

Jacob4800

The most interesting thing is that the more you ventilate the cabinet, the stronger the evaporation and, consequently, the condensation. I don't have fans in the sump, there are no ventilation holes, and the cabinet doors are always closed... there is no condensation. This can be explained simply - the walls of the cabinet are double, the inner ones quickly heat up to the temperature of the water, evaporation is minimal, and there is nothing for the condensation to "form" on.

Andrea6761

The manufacturer is called Soler & Palau. The quietest fans I have encountered. There are models adapted to high humidity conditions. The cost of one exhaust fan with moisture protection, with a decorative panel, operating at a noise level of 26dB, is around $50. I can help with a discount.

James3382

Thanks for the info, when I get around to changing the noisy VENTS, I'll hit it. There's no point in putting a 220 fan on the cabinet, a good intake computer cooler is enough - it works quietly, there's a wide selection, including options with feedback and speed control.

Brenda

The computer cooler, even 12", despite its large size and high RPM, allows very little air to pass through, quickly gets clogged with dust, and starts to hum. The model of the propeller in my link pushes up to 100 cubic meters per hour, has the option to install a speed controller, the bearing is protected from dust and moisture, and there are versions available for 12V. What I'm getting at is that half-measures do not solve the problem. A specialized device, although it costs significantly more than a computer cooler (though it may not be much more if you consider all the expenses for installing a computer cooler), works as it should and lasts a long time.

Daniel8015

I don't have it.